Ammo issue or rifle issue?

Bwgunslinger

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I picked up a Winchester super grade in 30-06 and put the first rounds down range this weekend.

I had two Ammo brands with me on day 1. The factory Federal Terminal Ascent shot great and functioned 100%. I had another big name brand that had two out of 6 that did not go off. (Thought maybe the rifle was having light strikes because the primers were not hit really deeply).

I went back this morning and shot a whole box of Remington Core Lokt without issue. Then shot some more Federal and it was great.

I field stripped and cleaned the bolt last night thinking maybe that was the issue but when I tried the two rounds that didn’t fire again, they still did not go off.

I think these days ammo issues from the main manufacturers are rare so not sure what to think.

Would you just shoot Federal and Remington and consider the rifle good to go? Or would you send the rifle to Winchester to get checked out?

Thanks!
 
Here are a couple pics of the new gun. Pretty excited about it overall.

IMG_1755.png
 
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Sounds like an ammo issue to me. If the Federal or Remington shoots well just use it and don't look back. For what its worth I have had a similar problem in the past. If they all are problematic its a rifle issue but if 2 of the 3 tried function without issue then simply don't use the brand causing an issue.
 
Light strikes from factory ammo are not as rare as you'd think.

I test A LOT of factory ammo from well-known manufacturers and have encountered light strikes in multiple cartridges more than I should.

Compare seating depths of the primers against known performers. It's not the primer, but the depth of the primer pocket that's usually the culprit. Poor brass QC.
 
I think these days ammo issues from the main manufacturers are rare so not sure what to think.
Don't count on that consistency from manufacturers. Some companies are much better than others. QC vs. QA is different.

Working in food manufacturing, QA specs (written theory on product consistency) do NOT match QC (Quality Control), measured actual variance.
Executives determine the business impact, often overruling the line operators and managers making product every day.

I have measured powder charge and runout variances in "range ammo", cheap ammo, versus premium ammo. The variances are real. Powder charges vary.
Regarding primer strikes, the hardness of the primer cup varies, depending on QC.

That Winchester M70 probably works fine. Stick with a reliable ammo brand.
 
Light strikes from factory ammo are not as rare as you'd think.

I test A LOT of factory ammo from well-known manufacturers and have encountered light strikes in multiple cartridges more than I should.

Compare seating depths of the primers against known performers. It's not the primer, but the depth of the primer pocket that's usually the culprit. Poor brass QC.
Good to know. I really don’t want to ship the rifle over this. I looked at the primer depth but couldn’t tell much difference by looking at them.

I have some factory swift and other rounds to try soon as well.
 
Light strikes from factory ammo are not as rare as you'd think.

I test A LOT of factory ammo from well-known manufacturers and have encountered light strikes in multiple cartridges more than I should.

Compare seating depths of the primers against known performers. It's not the primer, but the depth of the primer pocket that's usually the culprit. Poor brass QC.
Interesting to read that light strikes in factory ammo are not as rare as we hope. Something I have noticed. I appreciate your real-world experience.
In reloading, I pay more attention to primer seating depth, to ensure ignition.
 
Interesting to read that light strikes in factory ammo are not as rare as we hope. Something I have noticed. I appreciate your real-world experience.
In reloading, I pay more attention to primer seating depth, to ensure ignition.
I reload as well but I’m not that experienced. I have always just seated the primers with the hand primer from RCBS and visually inspected to make sure they are deep.

Sounds like I need to read up on primers and seating.
 
Good to know. I really don’t want to ship the rifle over this. I looked at the primer depth but couldn’t tell much difference by looking at them.

I have some factory swift and other rounds to try soon as well.
Regarding primer seating, you can't really see any real variance.

If reloading, you learn the "feel" of primer seating depth (.002 to .003) below the case head. It is not really visible, rather calibrate your fingers to the feel, using known factory ammo to index the feel of proper depth.

The idea is the primer is not firmly seated in the primer pocket (of the cartridge), the firing pin impact energy may be wasted in driving the primer firmly into the pocket, rather than as designed, crushing the primer cup into the primer anvil to explode the primer compound to ignite the gunpowder.

I don't describe this very well, but look up Hornady or Lyman reloading information, and diagrams and it makes sense.

You did the right thing in disassembling the bolt, clean and lube.

Use the ammo that works.
 
Regarding primer seating, you can't really see any real variance.

If reloading, you learn the "feel" of primer seating depth (.002 to .003) below the case head. It is not really visible, rather calibrate your fingers to the feel, using known factory ammo to index the feel of proper depth.

The idea is the primer is not firmly seated in the primer pocket (of the cartridge), the firing pin impact energy may be wasted in driving the primer firmly into the pocket, rather than as designed, crushing the primer cup into the primer anvil to explode the primer compound to ignite the gunpowder.

I don't describe this very well, but look up Hornady or Lyman reloading information, and diagrams and it makes sense.

You did the right thing in disassembling the bolt, clean and lube.

Use the ammo that works.
That does make sense. If it’s not seated firmly that is going to take away some energy from the pin strike.

I appreciate the info. I’ll stick with the ammo that’s working and call it good. The federal is shooting great. A 175 grain that was shooting approximately .75 moa with three 3-shot groups.
 
That does make sense. If it’s not seated firmly that is going to take away some energy from the pin strike.

I appreciate the info. I’ll stick with the ammo that’s working and call it good. The federal is shooting great. A 175 grain that was shooting approximately .75 moa with three 3-shot groups.
Good call. That Model 70 looks like a really nice rifle. Federal 175 grain shooting .75 MOA is all you need.
 
I picked up a Winchester super grade in 30-06 and put the first rounds down range this weekend.

I had two Ammo brands with me on day 1. The factory Federal Terminal Ascent shot great and functioned 100%. I had another big name brand that had two out of 6 that did not go off. (Thought maybe the rifle was having light strikes because the primers were not hit really deeply).

I went back this morning and shot a whole box of Remington Core Lokt without issue. Then shot some more Federal and it was great.

I field stripped and cleaned the bolt last night thinking maybe that was the issue but when I tried the two rounds that didn’t fire again, they still did not go off.

I think these days ammo issues from the main manufacturers are rare so not sure what to think.

Would you just shoot Federal and Remington and consider the rifle good to go? Or would you send the rifle to Winchester to get checked out?

Thanks!
Could simply be a manufacturer loading brass of absolutely mimimum size specs, thus causing excess headspace and resultant light primer strikes. Something similar happened to me with a new Ruger Hawkeye, 375 Ruger with my own handloads using once fired brass. I FL sized the brass thinking I had sized very close to chamber dimensions and while most rounds fired a handful didn't, even when tried again. I could see strike indents on the primers however. I obtained some advice recommending I unscrew my FL die a fraction which I did to instantly and permanently cure the problem. Clearly I had fractionally oversized my brass.
In your situation if you use only the reliable ammo brands in your rifle I would think you'll be perfectly OK. I don't think the problem is your rifle at all.
In my case I now have a few oversized cases I need to figure out how to turn into viable rounds - :unsure:
 

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