Remington Nylon 66 Receiver Metal?

[Ray B]

I tried some Birchwood Casey touch-up blueing on the scope mount groove atop the Nylon 66 and it not only didn't blue anything, it stripped off the blueing that was on it. It seems to be ferrous since a magnet sticks to it, but there seems to be a problem with blueing the scratches. Was I using the wrong stuff or is there something more to the problem?

 

[sestoppelman]

Hmmm, I don't know. I have one too, and it gets speckled with rust if I don't keep it wiped down, but have never thought to do anything about it. You try googling it?

 

[Von S.]

The steel you see is a hardened sheet metal stiffening cover.

Without it the rifle would easily break.

 

[kesha]

I own 3 of them I bought off gunbroker as parts are sparse now . Its a damn shame I remember they were $69.99 back in the day . I had to pay nearly $400 for one that was in mint cond. Good luck on the blueing I love those guns.

 

[Philip Glass]

I have one that was my late brothers. Funny how back in the ‘80’s we all thought synthetic stocks looked cheap and now most of us have many of them. The Nylon 66 lead the way. No I didn’t like it back then either.
Philip

 

[Hogpatrol]

From another site by someone who has done more than one: Polish, degrease, blue.

 

[Jeffrey]

Agree with Hogpatrol. Polish, degrease, blue (or coat/protect in some manner).

 

[greyfox]

1: Throw the Birchwood Away.
2: Thoroughly clean with alcohol
3: Use the bluing from Brownells (Oxpho Blue or 44/40)
4: follow the directions on the bottle.

 

[sestoppelman]

I like the Walmart (K Mart!) green stock version, but everytime I find one, the price runs me off. The one I have now was given to me by a late friend some years ago. He had it on his table at a gun show for $125. I picked it up and was about to buy it from him and he said, here, its yours.

 

[Ray B]

I agree, the price of the Nylon 66s has really increased. I paid nearly $12K for this one- of course that doesn't include a 30S and two 21s that were thrown in to complete the deal. I'll get some Brownells blue and clean the spot with everclear. My guess is that the problem is with the Birchwood stuff more so than the steel.

 

[Ray B]

 

[Ray B]

Here is a photograph of the receiver. The discoloration is only surface. It isn't pitted, but it really looks bad. Most of the discoloration was from the first attempt at bluing with the BC stuff.

 

[kesha]

Heck I’ll sell you all 3 of mine for 10k

 

[Ray B]

But how many Heyms will you throw in to seal the deal?

 

[kesha]

I suppose not .lol

 

[greyfox]

Ray, That looks disgusting!!
Get a good stout tooth brush or gun brush (parts brush) put some oil on the area and scrub it - you may even try a brass brush,
Get it polished/cleaned up then us a 00 or finer steel wool. Polish it more, (good bluing is all in the PREP!!!)

Degrease (Recommend denatured alcohol) use q-tips to get in the grooves there.

THEN use Oxpho blue or 44/40. wipe on in one direction, let it sit for a minute, wipe off with a clean cloth (cotton t-shirts are great for this)
steel wool, wipe, repeat,,,,,,

Typically after the 5th treatment of bluing I have not noticed any difference. Steel wool it lightly, OIL liberally, let it sit over night,
Next day oil and a nylon brush, you should be good to go.

 

[Shawn.54]

Speaking of a Nylon 66 I have one also picked it up at a yard sale when I was 11-12 years old if memory serves we right I paid $20 for it the open sights were missing and it was wore to bare metal in about half the surface looked pretty rough but shot deadly accurate with a 3/4 dirt cheap scope. I wish I had all the ammo I blew through it. Disassembled it and could not believe that a rifle made so cheaply could even function but it did.
Shawn

 

[bullseye-69]

I got one and used it for squirrel hunting. You could carry that thing all day and your arms wouldn't get tired.

 

[ChrisG]

I will say that Birchwood casey is garbage and have to agree that brownells oxpho blue is good stuff. All that said however, cold blue is NOT bluing. It is a solution of Selenic or Selenous acid and from what I can tell forms a hyper thin layer of metal selenide on the surface that removes easily. the following steps would insure the best possibility that it would take:

1. Degrease the section you want to blue
2. Degrease it again with a clean pad
3. Repeat steps 1&2
4. Heat the part up with a heat gun until it is just hot enough that you can't hold your hand on it for more than a couple seconds (about 140 degrees)
5. Apply bluing in thin even strokes, then blend with 0000 steel wool and oil with a water displacing oil like WD-40 or ATF
6. Reapply oil after about 6 hours.

the better option would be to rust blue it with something like Pilkingtons or a solution from http://www.rustblue.com/. It is more laborious and a little more involved but the results speak for themselves and are long lasting. usually longer than the original finish if applied properly.