Ruger guide gun 20” 30-06

[Erik7181]

So I just bought the ruger guide gun in 30-06, has a laminated stock ( not as ugly as the photos) 20” barrel, built like a tank.
Iv always been a big 30-06 fan. I wanted a nice handy rifle. I was looking for a Winchester Alaskan but they were impossible to find.
But now the more I read Im wondering if I mad a bad choice getting a 30-06 with a 20” barrel as im worried about loss in velocity and distance .
Did I truly make a mistake?. Any comments or help would be appreciated.

 

[BJH65]

I think you bought a fine rifle and they are built like a tank! I have a guide gun in 300 RCM that I used on a Bob Marshall Wilderness elk hunt, using it as a staff to help me get back up the mountain after getting an elk! You’re not losing much velocity to make a difference with that 20 inch barrel since most 30-06 rifles have 22 inch barrels, you’re only losing approximately 40-50 fps that’s nothing.

 

[Jack Stevens]

A 20” barreled .30-06 rifle, like CZ’s now-discontinued variant built on the CRF 550 action, are popular for use in rugged, heavily timbered, or hilly terrain where short-range shots are typically the norm, like in the Alaska bush. A 20” rifle’s compactness is an aid to quick maneuverability in such environs.

Zero it for 100-yds (or 150yds max), both with the iron sights and a low-magnification scope in QD rings, and you’re good to go.

 

[Erik7181]

Its funny you mention the CZ 550 I have a CZ 550FS in 6.5x55 and love it.

I bought the warne quick detach Ruger rings, I will be looking at a Leupold scope.

 

[Erik7181]

I think you bought a fine rifle and they are built like a tank! I have a guide gun in 300 RCM that I used on a Bob Marshall Wilderness elk hunt, using it as a staff to help me get back up the mountain after getting an elk! You’re not losing much velocity to make a difference with that 20 inch barrel since most 30-06 rifles have 22 inch barrels, you’re only losing approximately 40-50 fps that’s nothi

Im glad to hear it, Iv really been second guessing my choice but I loved the style and caliber of the rifle. I am considering moving up to a Winchester model 70 in .375. It will be my first magnum rifle and from the research Iv done it seems like its a caliber Id learn pretty quick. Im sure its a decent increase in recoil but it really does seem to be a good general purpose big game rifle.

 

[BJH65]

I think a Leupold VX-3 2.5-8 would be about perfect for your Ruger Guide Gun, making it a truly all purpose rifle. I don’t think you could ever go wrong with a Winchester M70 375 H&H. I believe you could easily learn to manage the recoil.

 

[Altitude sickness]

I just mounted a scope on my new to me Sako 85 with a 20” barrel. Makes a nice compact stalking rifle.

 

[Lumaberpat]

For a practical rifle I think that 20” is just about perfect! The longer lengths can be a bit much for moving about in the woods. Although practice house clearing with a garand can be fun.

 

[USMA84DAB]

All that BS crowing about 20" barrels "loose too much velocity" - 99 out of 100 Fudds screaming about this could not tell you the amount of trajectory difference between 20" and 22" or 24" anyway. For the vast majority, they can't shoot well enough to ever tell the difference. It won't make a difference until you are out at 400 yds and beyond. If you are shooting at game at that distance you would be using a precision set-up. For my personal hunting ethics, that is not very much hunting and a lot towards sniping. YMMV.

Another point most youngsters ( I am a card carrying curmudgeon) forget is that one carries the rifle (stateside) 99% of the time and fire it 1% of the time. The extra 2-4" of barrel does not help you carry the rifle better. The older i get the heavier gear gets.

My Ruger Alaskan in .375 Ruger reached out on a Blesbuck at a lazered 253 yards just fine. The 20" barrel made absolutely no difference as I had the laser cut turret for my load from Leupold. The PH christened my rifle "Stubby" because every other .375 he had seen had the 24" barrel to wring all that energy out of the magnum H&H. Twice I surprised the PH with my rifle handling ability - 20" barrels are fast and easy to snake through the brush. Seems I had enough energy left with my puny, short barrel - giraffe (3,000 lbs.), zebra stallion, oryx, blue wildebeest, kudu, impala, blesbuck, a pair of baboons - they all fell quite nicely. All other shots besides the blesbuck & one baboon (200 yards) were 100 yards and under. MAYBE in the western US you might need to shoot across a canyon at elk or deer, but my 2 "long shots" of 200+ were spot on with the laser cut elevation cap.

If you don't have a cut elevation cap, you can go really old school - go to a range with your load and determine your come-ups for every 50 yards and tape a 3"x5" card to the stock.

I have never missed an extra 4" of steel hanging on the front of my Alaskans (I have a brace of them).

 

[Erik7181]

All that BS crowing about 20" barrels "loose too much velocity" - 99 out of 100 Fudds screaming about this could not tell you the amount of trajectory difference between 20" and 22" or 24" anyway. For the vast majority, they can't shoot well enough to ever tell the difference. It won't make a difference until you are out at 400 yds and beyond. If you are shooting at game at that distance you would be using a precision set-up. For my personal hunting ethics, that is not very much hunting and a lot towards sniping. YMMV.

Another point most youngsters ( I am a card carrying curmudgeon) forget is that one carries the rifle (stateside) 99% of the time and fire it 1% of the time. The extra 2-4" of barrel does not help you carry the rifle better. The older i get the heavier gear gets.

My Ruger Alaskan in .375 Ruger reached out on a Blesbuck at a lazered 253 yards just fine. The 20" barrel made absolutely no difference as I had the laser cut turret for my load from Leupold. The PH christened my rifle "Stubby" because every other .375 he had seen had the 24" barrel to wring all that energy out of the magnum H&H. Twice I surprised the PH with my rifle handling ability - 20" barrels are fast and easy to snake through the brush. Seems I had enough energy left with my puny, short barrel - giraffe (3,000 lbs.), zebra stallion, oryx, blue wildebeest, kudu, impala, blesbuck, a pair of baboons - they all fell quite nicely. All other shots besides the blesbuck & one baboon (200 yards) were 100 yards and under. MAYBE in the western US you might need to shoot across a canyon at elk or deer, but my 2 "long shots" of 200+ were spot on with the laser cut elevation cap.

If you don't have a cut elevation cap, you can go really old school - go to a range with your load and determine your come-ups for every 50 yards and tape a 3"x5" card to the stock.

I have never missed an extra 4" of steel hanging on the front of my Alaskans (I have a brace of them).

I agree 100%.
I think most people talking about the velocity loss are mainly armchair hunters who don't spend enough time actually learning there rifles. All your responses here are exactly why I truly enjoy this forum. Well educated individuals with plenty of field experience. Iv been shooting the 06 sense I was around 12, and back then you only had two big companies to choose from Remington or Winchester. Iv always felt Winchester was the king.

 

[Jack Stevens]

I like shorter barrels, especially in combination with an overall lighter-weight action and stock. For 99% of my hunting areas these days, which is for deer or hogs, shots are rarely over 100-yds and frequently less.

Primary harvesting tools are either a 20” Remington model 660 (top) or an 18.5” model 600. Both are chambered in .350 Rem Magnum. It’s a versatile short-magnum (the world’s first) that can be loaded down or up as needed.

The M660 runs a compact fixed 2.5x Leupy optic, while the M600 is irons only. The M660 runs about 7.4lbs as pictured; the M600 is right at 6.5lbs with the 3-pt Ching sling.

I do hunt coyotes at night, but for those dudes I have a separate precision AR rig with a dedicated thermal scope. Night-hunting ‘yotes is just a different type of hunting.

 

[USMA84DAB]

I bet those .350 rounds are "invigorating" to fire in these svelte carbines!

Light fast ponies - still getting the job done!

 

[Laniarius]

I like the easy handling of my Guide Gun in 30-06.

If you're also thinking of getting a Model 70 Safari in .375 H&H, you'll have the same combo as me.

It's interesting to note that both rifles are the small calibre in their line. This makes them a bit "over built" and heavy for their cartridge, but I don't mind that. I've used a light Leopold for each to keep the weight reasonable.

 

[Jack Stevens]

I bet those .350 rounds are "invigorating" to fire in these svelte carbines!
Light fast ponies - still getting the job done!

At full-power they do pop. But my gunsmith and I did some mods to both guns. The big recoil-diminishing “cheat” was to replace the old, hard factory recoil pads with Kick-Ezz pads of the same size.

LOP remains the same but the difference in felt-recoil is huge.

 

[USMA84DAB]

I bet, Jack!

I also saw above the idea of using Leupolds to save weight - people don't seem to notice that many scopes are absolute PIGS weight-wise. Leupolds are pretty trim in that department. They are very generous to veterans with their pricing!!!!

While I love the VX-6 line, my retired budget reaches the VX-5 line much better, and unfortunately, the VX-3 line really has no firedot reticles (in the light/svelte category - just 50mm objectives), so I have to save longer to get the VX-5s.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

My 30-06 has a 22” barrel and I like it just fine. If you stay away from the slow powders like 4831 and the like.
If you lose 100 FPS over a 24” barrel who cares, a good 180 at 2600 will kill anything that a 30 caliber should be used on.

 

[Erik7181]

I bet, Jack!

I also saw above the idea of using Leupolds to save weight - people don't seem to notice that many scopes are absolute PIGS weight-wise. Leupolds are pretty trim in that department. They are very generous to veterans with their pricing!!!!

While I love the VX-6 line, my retired budget reaches the VX-5 line much better, and unfortunately, the VX-3 line really has no firedot reticles (in the light/svelte category - just 50mm objectives), so I have to save longer to get the VX-5s.

I actually have a VX3HD fire dot twilight hunter. its 3.5x10x40

 

[Hyde Hunter]

my 30.06 wears an 18 in barrel plus a suppressor and shoots the Power Hammer 150 gr bullet and has taken plenty of whitetail and African game all one shot and only 2 recovered bullets velocity is 2960fps using IMR8208 xbr powder, just use a little faster burning powder if you reload your own

 

[Erik7181]

my 30.06 wears an 18 in barrel plus a suppressor and shoots the Power Hammer 150 gr bullet and has taken plenty of whitetail and African game all one shot and only 2 recovered bullets velocity is 2960fps using IMR8208 xbr powder, just use a little faster burning powder if you reload your

Yeah Iv always wanted to go for a big Kodiak bear, why Im looking into the .375.
I spent my summers in Alaska as a kid with my aunt and uncle. And you ask any old timer and most of them say 30-06 with 180s is plenty.
Not speaking of this ruger. But I would not want to risk losing a nice bear because I didn’t knock him down fast enough. Once there hit, they either come for you or the thickest brush they can find.
And you do not want to leave a wounded bear out there.

 

[HankBuck]

So I just bought the ruger guide gun in 30-06, has a laminated stock ( not as ugly as the photos) 20” barrel, built like a tank.
Iv always been a big 30-06 fan. I wanted a nice handy rifle. I was looking for a Winchester Alaskan but they were impossible to find.
But now the more I read Im wondering if I mad a bad choice getting a 30-06 with a 20” barrel as im worried about loss in velocity and distance .
Did I truly make a mistake?. Any comments or help would be appreciated.

View attachment 652414

@Erik7181 - I think you picked a fine “utility” rifle and a Great vesitile caliber. I like wood stocks but can tolerate laminated on a gun like yours and prefer that over ‘plastic’. Others might care about wringing out every fps of velosity they can get but I don’t worry about it - 22” might give you 50 to 75 fps more and 24” 100-125fps more? So what? After you are sighted in you will only have to account for 2-3” more drop at 200+ yrds then a slightly faster bullet. Ballistics and FPS “never killed anything”….BULLET PLACEMENT & Bullet Construction is what matters most. You made a good selection.