9.3x62 mauser build

[mauserhunter]

Well should finally be getting some work started on my 9.3 build soon, I was able to order a shaw 9.3x62 barrel for my 09 argentine I've been wanting. Ordered it on black Friday and probably won't be here for a month or longer, was around $135, wish I had more money there were a few barrels I'd like to get. About two years ago I picked up a sportered 09 argentine for $300 in pretty good shape. I'm still not 100% what style I'm going with, I make very little money and don't have much that's not for bills, but is my hobby.

Things I'm pretty sure on.
Will rust blue, got most of the stuff need a new carting wheel tho.
Necg sights, masterpiece banded front, not sure which for the rear either the adjustable masterpiece or the express with the flip ups. Masterpiece is cheaper so probably that, anyone have a photo of the sight picture of either.
For now it will only have sights, don't have a good Smith yet or the money to have it d&t and bolt work done, down the road scope will be added.
Keeping the 09 bottom metal, have most of the work done on that. Still need to thin down the trigger bow some more, any see what I need to squeeze that 5th round in.
Obviously it's a 9.3x63, shaw barrel #2.5 conture 22" 11° crown.
barrel band sling stud, looking at the Talley there pretty affordable.
About 13.5" lop is preferred

Not sure on.

Not sure what style to keep with, german?British? Old or new.
Stock, nice wood or synthetic, I like both for there reasons. Wood will probably be a Richard's micro fits, I don't like to Boyd's have my eye on the b&c medalist I've used a few and liked them. There are few carbon stocks one is around $300 but have to fit it, not sure all the work needed and don't really need a super light stock. I like walnut very much but I want a working rifle that I can use without messing nice wood up. This will be a brush gun for deer and maybe a black bear, but could do the other hunting jobs if it comes together like I want.
Safety either and m70 or a 2 position wing Safety
Slowly I'll get this gun together piece by piece when I can afford to do so, wish I had the money to buy a reamer be handy to have one but money being tight ill spend the $50 and rent one.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Should be very little needed to modify bottom metal. Both cartridges have the same diameter rim/base. You may need to change the feeding rails to accommodate 9mm's thicker shoulder. Wait and see. Your bolt face should be fine as is. 3-position Model 70 style safety will run $200. As long as you plan to keep iron sights, either order one of those or stick with the military flag safety. Buhler style 2-position scope relief "wing" safeties are not very safe if there's no scope on the gun. They stick up and too easily caught on clothing, brush, etc. Safety is easily disengaged without you knowing it. Other option is Timney "deluxe" trigger with integral 2-position trigger block safety on side of receiver. They're about $150. They may require modifying the stock (although many factory aftermarket stocks come inletted for trigger block safety). If you go that route, you can also order an aftermarket "commercial Mauser" style bolt shroud that eliminates the flag safety without leaving an unsightly hole in the back of the gun. By the time you've bought both those parts, you'll have more money invested than if you'd simply bought the Model 70 style safety (which includes bolt shroud). But you should buy a better trigger anyway, even if you stick with striker safety. Keep your eye open as lots of Mauser 98 adjustable triggers, new and used, come up fairly cheap online all the time.

 

[mauserhunter]

Should be very little needed to modify bottom metal. Both cartridges have the same diameter rim/base. You may need to change the feeding rails to accommodate 9mm's thicker shoulder. Wait and see. Your bolt face should be fine as is. 3-position Model 70 style safety will run $200. As long as you plan to keep iron sights, either order one of those or stick with the military flag safety. Buhler style 2-position scope relief "wing" safeties are not very safe if there's no scope on the gun. They stick up and too easily caught on clothing, brush, etc. Safety is easily disengaged without you knowing it. Other option is Timney "deluxe" trigger with integral 2-position trigger block safety on side of receiver. They're about $150. They may require modifying the stock (although many factory aftermarket stocks come inletted for trigger block safety). If you go that route, you can also order an aftermarket "commercial Mauser" style bolt shroud that eliminates the flag safety without leaving an unsightly hole in the back of the gun. By the time you've bought both those parts, you'll have more money invested than if you'd simply bought the Model 70 style safety (which includes bolt shroud). But you should buy a better trigger anyway, even if you stick with striker safety. Keep your eye open as lots of Mauser 98 adjustable triggers, new and used, come up fairly cheap online all the time.

The bottom metal I just thinned down the trigger bow and blended it some still needs some finishing and I need to solder a piece on the release.

Gun was rechambered to 3006 way back and they made some more room in the magazine, rails are untouched. I have 5, 9.3x62 dummies I made up with 250 accubonds and it feeds good just can't get the 5th round in since there a little fatter at the shoulder.

I haven't looked into what brand for the 3 position m70 yet, like the necg but it's almost $300. I'm actually a fan of the mauser safety and trigger, grew up shooting mausers. A little work and you can get the military trigger lighter and break clean. I like two stage as well. I'd like to try out the necg trigger tho.

I've got a few fn bolt shrouds if I ever go side safety, having a bolt lock is very important to me tho.

Here's some pics doing the bottom metal work and some of my 7X57AI on a 09 argentine I have, sorry pictures are bad i maybe able to get some better ones now.

 

[Henrysdad]

Looking forward to seeing your progress

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Well should finally be getting some work started on my 9.3 build soon, I was able to order a shaw 9.3x62 barrel for my 09 argentine I've been wanting. Ordered it on black Friday and probably won't be here for a month or longer, was around $135, wish I had more money there were a few barrels I'd like to get. About two years ago I picked up a sportered 09 argentine for $300 in pretty good shape. I'm still not 100% what style I'm going with, I make very little money and don't have much that's not for bills, but is my hobby.

Things I'm pretty sure on.
Will rust blue, got most of the stuff need a new carting wheel tho.
Necg sights, masterpiece banded front, not sure which for the rear either the adjustable masterpiece or the express with the flip ups. Masterpiece is cheaper so probably that, anyone have a photo of the sight picture of either.
For now it will only have sights, don't have a good Smith yet or the money to have it d&t and bolt work done, down the road scope will be added.
Keeping the 09 bottom metal, have most of the work done on that. Still need to thin down the trigger bow some more, any see what I need to squeeze that 5th round in.
Obviously it's a 9.3x63, shaw barrel #2.5 conture 22" 11° crown.
barrel band sling stud, looking at the Talley there pretty affordable.
About 13.5" lop is preferred

Not sure on.

Not sure what style to keep with, german?British? Old or new.
Stock, nice wood or synthetic, I like both for there reasons. Wood will probably be a Richard's micro fits, I don't like to Boyd's have my eye on the b&c medalist I've used a few and liked them. There are few carbon stocks one is around $300 but have to fit it, not sure all the work needed and don't really need a super light stock. I like walnut very much but I want a working rifle that I can use without messing nice wood up. This will be a brush gun for deer and maybe a black bear, but could do the other hunting jobs if it comes together like I want.
Safety either and m70 or a 2 position wing Safety
Slowly I'll get this gun together piece by piece when I can afford to do so, wish I had the money to buy a reamer be handy to have one but money being tight ill spend the $50 and rent one.

@mauserhunter
It all takes time.
You could always scope it first and add the irons latter. STOCKEYS do a nice light weight stock at affordable prices.
As much as I love nice walnut ( most of my rifles are walnut) I don't mind synthetic. The synthetic on my Whelen is the bog standard grey from Savage but I have come to love the fit and the ease of maintaining it.
Take your time and enjoy the process. The more you can do yourself the more rewarding it will be.
Enjoy
Bob

 

[mauserhunter]

@mauserhunter
It all takes time.
You could always scope it first and add the irons latter. STOCKEYS do a nice light weight stock at affordable prices.
As much as I love nice walnut ( most of my rifles are walnut) I don't mind synthetic. The synthetic on my Whelen is the bog standard grey from Savage but I have come to love the fit and the ease of maintaining it.
Take your time and enjoy the process. The more you can do yourself the more rewarding it will be.
Enjoy
Bob

I still need to find a local Smith to drill and tap, I don't trust most around here, most don't know you can't just tap anywhere. I don't need someone putting a screw halfway into the lugs and not where it should be. I need to find a tig welder to weld the bolt after I get a new handle fit and make a jig to hold it for welding.

I wouldn't even mind a butler creek stock I never minded them or a old b%c&c. I do like the look of the new medalist b&c's.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I still need to find a local Smith to drill and tap, I don't trust most around here, most don't know you can't just tap anywhere. I don't need someone putting a screw halfway into the lugs and not where it should be. I need to find a tig welder to weld the bolt after I get a new handle fit and make a jig to hold it for welding.

I wouldn't even mind a butler creek stock I never minded them or a old b%c&c. I do like the look of the new medalist b&c's.

Hoosier Gun Works has a bunch of the old Weaver one piece 3-hole commercial Mauser bases for ten bucks. You could order one for marking precise placement of screw holes in the receiver. My receiver was already tapped with three holes when I bought the action.

 

[mauserhunter]

Hoosier Gun Works has a bunch of the old Weaver one piece 3-hole commercial Mauser bases for ten bucks. You could order one for marking precise placement of screw holes in the receiver. My receiver was already tapped with three holes when I bought the action.

I have a bunch of leupold 3 hole bases, the 9.3 has some recoil so 4 screws is best. I'm even debating making the holes 8-40 threads. I am really picky about some things and ocd if not perfect, drilling a hole off or crooked would make me crazy. Be looking online for a wheeler or bsquared drilling figure but no luck.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I have a bunch of leupold 3 hole bases, the 9.3 has some recoil so 4 screws is best. I'm even debating making the holes 8-40 threads. I am really picky about some things and ocd if not perfect, drilling a hole off or crooked would make me crazy. Be looking online for a wheeler or bsquared drilling figure but no luck.

Your Argentine has a slot for a stripper clip, correct? I think that's why mine is tapped for 3-hole. Two holes on the back end would be kinda squished due to stripper clip slot. Will it weaken the ring if two holes are drilled in it so close together? Mind you, that ring shouldn't need to provide any support unless the forward ring fails and the third safety lug is activated (i.e. gun blows up). I'm thinking out loud here so maybe someone with more experience can chime in. Actually, I prefer the one piece rail over two piece bases. With the rail I am assured that rings are aligned perfectly. As far as integrity, I think a one piece rail has more because the action/scope cannot possibly buckle during recoil. Perhaps rails are not as asthetic as 2-piece bases, but ones with the magazine loading cutout aren't totally tacticool hideous. I have them on both my Springfield and Mauser and they don't look too bad. And they are absolutely no impediment to loading or ejecting.

 

[mauserhunter]

For the rear ring you use the fn pattern holes there .500" I believe. Magnum m70s had even smaller hole to hole and they held up. You could weld the clip slot up and probably run the .860" holes but really all you gain is maybe some more wiggle room for ring placement.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

For the rear ring you use the fn pattern holes there .500" I believe. Magnum m70s had even smaller hole to hole and they held up. You could weld the clip slot up and probably run the .860" holes but really all you gain is maybe some more wiggle room for ring placement.

Look at the image of my BRNO vz.24 Mauser. That rail is for a commercial FN Mauser. The company makes rails for military Mausers but only aluminum. With a quick detach system I did not want aluminum so I ordered the commercial rail which was available in steel. I could see from the advertisement image that it had three holes and my action was already tapped for three holes. What I could not see was the commercial Mauser rail does not accommodate the HUMP in the receiver for military stripper clip slot. So I carved out enough metal on the rail to allow for the hump. Note that the carved portion is corrugated so as to avoid unsightly gaps (that could catch debris). I then ordered one of the old Weaver rails from Hoosier because they are lower. Even with low Warne QD rings, my scope is just a bit high for instant acquisition with this rail. The Weaver rail would be significantly lower because it is thinner ... but turns out it's too thin for me to carve any metal away for stripper clip hump. The only slot for rear ring is cut into the rail above the hump zone where I would have to cut metal underneath. The rail would not stand up to heavy recoil. So I knew this rail would not work for your gun but it would give you proper spacing and only cost ten bucks. But I guess you already have other three-hole rails for that spacing. Anyway, simply filling the slot with tig weld might not be a solution. To make the military Mauser receiver fit commercial rails, and presumably 2-piece bases, the stripper hump has to be accommodated. I believe most of the ultra-expensive builds on these guns fill the slot and machine away the hump.

 

[mauserhunter]

Look at the image of my BRNO vz.24 Mauser. That rail is for a commercial FN Mauser. The company makes rails for military Mausers but only aluminum. With a quick detach system I did not want aluminum so I ordered the commercial rail which was available in steel. I could see from the advertisement image that it had three holes and my action was already tapped for three holes. What I could not see was the commercial Mauser rail does not accommodate the HUMP in the receiver for military stripper clip slot. So I carved out enough metal on the rail to allow for the hump. Note that the carved portion is corrugated so as to avoid unsightly gaps (that could catch debris). I then ordered one of the old Weaver rails from Hoosier because they are lower. Even with low Warne QD rings, my scope is just a bit high for instant acquisition with this rail. The Weaver rail would be significantly lower because it is thinner ... but turns out it's too thin for me to carve any metal away for stripper clip hump. The only slot for rear ring is cut into the rail above the hump zone where I would have to cut metal underneath. The rail would not stand up to heavy recoil. So I knew this rail would not work for your gun but it would give you proper spacing and only cost ten bucks. But I guess you already have other three-hole rails for that spacing. Anyway, simply filling the slot with tig weld might not be a solution. To make the military Mauser receiver fit commercial rails, and presumably 2-piece bases, the stripper hump has to be accommodated. I believe most of the ultra-expensive builds on these guns fill the slot and machine away the hump.

Ya you remove the hump when you drill and tap them, otherwise they look better with the hump if only using sights. There's no real need to fill in the slot theres limited forward or back movement to where the holes go, you can't slid the base anymore forward so the what would be the 3rd hole and its not where the slot was filled in.

 

[K E Johnson]

Larry Potterfield demonstrates how to remove the stripper clip boss using hand tools. A short but informative video.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Larry Potterfield demonstrates how to remove the stripper clip boss using hand tools. A short but informative video.

Hmmm. Interesting. I think I'm more comfortable grinding on the underside of a rail than the top of my receiver. Anyway, the rear ring already had one hole tapped in it. Adding two more could be a problem. I really didn't have an option except to mount with a rail.

A rail has the advantage of perfectly aligning the scope rings. No lapping needed if the rings are same make. One would think a rail system must also be more rigid and therefore stronger than two-piece bases. Maybe not as pretty but some are not totally ugly. Good looks aren't at the top of my list. My 404J is not a work of art. It's a working gun.

 

[baxterb]

Curious how well this feeds with no metal work done to the underside of the action or rails? The narrower 06 mag box (if it was properly dimensioned per Mauser) will still make the front of the rounds stack slightly narrow.

Are there long marks on the brass? Notches in the rim? Shavings anywhere? does the nose of the bullet leave even (left and right) marks on the feed ramp?

I only bring this up for having spent a great deal of time and money getting a former 06 Husky 640 action to feed a 9.3 like butter. Took more effort than expected, but now feeds anything.

 

[Hunter-Habib]

German Style- its’s a German caliber
Grade 5 Turkish Walnut- A few scratches in the stock here and there are signs that the owner has taken the rifle out on a lifetime of adventures
Model 70 style safety- Personal preference

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Curious how well this feeds with no metal work done to the underside of the action or rails? The narrower 06 mag box (if it was properly dimensioned per Mauser) will still make the front of the rounds stack slightly narrow.

Are there long marks on the brass? Notches in the rim? Shavings anywhere? does the nose of the bullet leave even (left and right) marks on the feed ramp?

I only bring this up for having spent a great deal of time and money getting a former 06 Husky 640 action to feed a 9.3 like butter. Took more effort than expected, but now feeds anything.

I used 416 Rem Mag bottom metal when building 404J on Mauser 98. I did no modification to bottom metal. Yes, the front of the rounds did stack slightly narrow due to 404's wider shoulder, but that isn't a problem. The rails still keep rounds in the box till cycled, and being stacked slightly narrow means the bullets are pointed directly at the middle of feeding ramp, not the side of it. The rails and ramp were, of course, modified. I learned Paul Mauser's cosine 30 formula isn't carved in stone sacred. You can play with it a bit.

 

[baxterb]

I used 416 Rem Mag bottom metal when building 404J on Mauser 98. I did no modification to bottom metal. Yes, the front of the rounds did stack slightly narrow due to 404's wider shoulder, but that isn't a problem. The rails still keep rounds in the box till cycled, and being stacked slightly narrow means the bullets are pointed directly at the middle of feeding ramp, not the side of it. The rails and ramp were, of course, modified. I learned Paul Mauser's cosine 30 formula isn't carved in stone sacred. You can play with it a bit.

I'd call that lucky...

middle left is a 375 box, middle right a 404 -

I know a guy who finished up a 425 Westley Richards on an original Oberndorf action - it did NOT use the two fingers at the rear of the action as spec'd by WR. Said it fed unbelievably well, and was the only factory mauser action he'd ever seen in 425. Surel;y mauser's rule was played with for that to a degree, but I've never seen it fail when applied from the beginning.

 

[K E Johnson]

@Ontario Hunter, you do you.

Not everyone thinks a one piece base is stronger. It can be argued either way. I am not going to refer to it as a “rail” as rail systems exist and are not the same thing. The European rail system is claimed to be better than rings. It’s definitely more expensive. The scopes are more expensive as well.

ERAMATIC One-Piece Swing mount, Mauser 98, Swarovski SR rail

ERAMATIC One-Piece Swing mount, Mauser 98, Swarovski SR rail

www.optics-trade.eu

A one piece base only has 75% of the fasteners of a two piece base mount. I lap in rings when appropriate. There are tolerances in any manufactured product however small the tolerances may be. No manufactured part is “perfect”. I can see the difference in lapping rings even on a one piece base mount.
Lapping rings can prevent issues and is not a difficult task.

One last thing, some ”working” guns might not be “handsome” to some.
Nowhere does it state that the two can not coexist in the same gun.

We all make choices on what we think will work for us.

 

[mauserhunter]

Hmmm. Interesting. I think I'm more comfortable grinding on the underside of a rail than the top of my receiver. Anyway, the rear ring already had one hole tapped in it. Adding two more could be a problem. I really didn't have an option except to mount with a rail.

A rail has the advantage of perfectly aligning the scope rings. No lapping needed if the rings are same make. One would think a rail system must also be more rigid and therefore stronger than two-piece bases. Maybe not as pretty but some are not totally ugly. Good looks aren't at the top of my list. My 404J is not a work of art. It's a working gun.

If the hole spacing is done right you can use a 3 screw one piece a 4 screw one piece and a 4 screw 2 piece bases. My dad had the jig years ago to grind the top of the mauser actions, this would make there contour uniform and the height even so you didn't have to shim. Mausers are forged so no one is perfect on top.