Got Brileys fitted on a Browning and Optima chokes on a Beretta . Both very good . Can’t really tell any difference .Briley vs beretta or who makes the best chokes and why?
For me as a hunter and casual clay shooter there is likely little difference. In years past when my kids shot competitively they all had to have Briley this and Briley that!Briley vs beretta or who makes the best chokes and why?
Speaking only for myself, I pull either the front or rear trigger.
For me as a hunter and casual clay shooter there is likely little difference. In years past when my kids shot competitively they all had to have Briley this and Briley that!
With all respect, I have to disagree. Unless you have one shotgun for each and every pursuit, multiple chokes with multiple loads make sense. Especially if you want to conserve meat damage.Honestly, the best choke is a fixed choke. With modern cartridges, the need for interchangeable chokes is highly questionable for most applications.
Speaking only for myself, I pull either the front or rear trigger.
You know I hold you in great respect, but when I was a kid my first shotgun was a Ted Williams 20 with a magical polychoke on the end. I spent much of my youth wasting my time twisting the silly thing until one day I shot it off the end of the barrel when I had loosened it too much (thank a benevolent God). My next gun was a fixed choke Model 12.With all respect, I have to disagree. Unless you have one shotgun for each and every pursuit, multiple chokes with multiple loads make sense. Especially if you want to conserve meat damage.
IMO...
Turkey - 12 bore with XF choke and Federal TSS 3.5" 7 shot
Goose - 12 bore with FULL choke and Federal TSS 3" BB/7 shot
Duck - 12 bore with IM choke and Federal TSS 3" 3/9 shot
Upland - 12 bore (because I don't have a 20) with MOD choke and Prairie Storm 3" 6 shot
Dove - 12 bore with CYL or IC choke and 2 3/4" 8 shot (target/clays ammo)
Above all is practice. Going to the clays range to improve your skills so that when you hit the hunting grounds your success is all but assured.
I’ll take your bet anytime. Zero chance you would beat any serious shooter with fixed choke. That’s not being mean Red, you’re a good dude. But that’s silly. Like saying you would kill as many buffalo with a 30-06. Yes it could be done. And it would be silly and not the correct tool for the job.You know I hold you in great respect, but when I was a kid my first shotgun was a Ted Williams 20 with a magical polychoke on the end. I spent much of my youth wasting my time twisting the silly thing until one day I shot it off the end of the barrel when I had loosened it too much (thank a benevolent God). My next gun was a fixed choke Model 12.
What you describe above is to me the adult version of the same thing. I think @WAB is exactly correct. I would wager serious money that I can take the same gun with the same choke and shoot someone of equal skill bird for bird on the first three on your list and not lose one due to the "wrong" choke. In my experience, it is the load that matters.
I can take at least half a dozen guns in three different bores off the rack and deal with the bottom two without worrying about different chokes.
I am curious about the three-inch load for upland game?!? Is that some sort of steel shot? The toughest upland shooting I have done is mid to late season sharptail grouse. They launch out there a ways and drive like a box bird. 1 1/8 ounces of number 6 from a modified/full gun is perfection.
Correction, the upland load was 3" #4 steel shot that a friend got me. Last time I bought upland loads they were 2 3/4" #6 lead from Federal but it looks like I may have left the remaining boxes with the same friend.I am curious about the three-inch load for upland game?!? Is that some sort of steel shot? The toughest upland shooting I have done is mid to late season sharptail grouse. They launch out there a ways and drive like a box bird. 1 1/8 ounces of number 6 from a modified/full gun is perfection.