CZ 550 safari recoil pad removal

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I'd like to shorten my stock a bit. I figured someone here would know. Is the stock pad glued on, screwed on, or both?
 
Should not be a problem. Tools required #2 Phillips. Possibly heat gun. Or as Krish put it both.
 
Mine was screwed and glued. The screws are inside narrow slits in the rubber. Coat your screwdriver in vaseline or grease so that you dont enlarge or damage the rubber. As tokoloshe safaris says, phillips or star screwdriver and then a narrow knife blade for the glue. I re used the original pad after shortening the stock. I also refinished the wood and was very pleased with the result.
 
Did you reprofile the pad?
Yes- the stock tapers quite a bit. As i said, i refinished the stock as well. I used sand paper to reprofile roughly and then needed the gun so it has stayed a little rough. If you takebablittle care and finish it off, it will look better.And you can see wher i boogered the holes by not using vaseline or grease.
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Yes- the stock tapers quite a bit. As i said, i refinished the stock as well. I used sand paper to reprofile roughly and then needed the gun so it has stayed a little rough. If you takebablittle care and finish it off, it will look better.And you can see wher i boogered the holes by not using vaseline or grease.View attachment 511414 View attachment 511413
The stock looks fantastic! I put a tiny bit of kroil on my screwdriver and prevented the recoil pad issue. I'm assuming you did the recoil pad on a belt sander? Hoping to have mine done within the next few days when I have a bit of time off of work.
 
The photo doesnt do it justice- the other day i put my factory cz next to a verney carron double on the gun rack behind the firing line. I reckon it was pretty much a dead heat as far as the stocks. And all for about $10 in sandpaper and boiled linseed oil. I did the pad by hand with glass paper- not sure what you guus call it, it is sandpaper with glass dust that we use for wood vs thewet and dry paper. I fing it is sharp enough to cut the rubber vs sandpaper which kind of rubs it around. Hand block and a few minutes- you only need to remove a couple of mm. Also try and use a fine toothed saw on the stock- sanding that end flat and square took longer than the rubber pad. I used a fine toothedbtenon hand saw and still had a fair bit of work to smooth it off and get it square.
 
And all for about $10 in sandpaper and boiled linseed oil. I did the pad by hand with glass paper- not sure what you guus call it, it is sandpaper with glass dust that we use for wood vs thewet and dry paper. I fing it is sharp enough to cut the rubber vs sandpaper which kind of rubs it around.
Where does one get this glass paper?
 
Just at the hardware store. But a belt sander works. I marked it and roughed it out off tge gun before finishing it by hand on the gun with the wood taped off. I would be nervous of a belt sander near the stock.
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