Everything you need to know about slings and swivels for safaris and safari rifles

rookhawk

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I’ve had this conversation several times over the past few months and I thought it would be worth memorializing for others to understand. I’ll start with the factual differences and types from a user/collector’s perspective, then I’ll go to the opinion on what is good or bad on a safari.

There are 4 primary types of swivels in existence because there are 3 primary types of sling eyes. If you don’t know this, you’ll buy the wrong one!

1.) Vintage British rifles and early US Winchesters used a large oversized sling swivel stud. These small studs are actually quite valuable ($75 and up) in themselves because they are often missing from vintage guns. They were designed to work with two types of attachments.

The first type was a sling that had rawhide straps at both ends. This was the most preferred by the early great white hunters of Africa because it was absolutely silent. These slings are quite uncommon today, with both Trader Keith and Rigby creating reproductions of the slings. The rawhide tags are soaked in a leather conditioner, a looping knot was fashioned to attach them to the rifle, and when dry the knots would tighten to be virtually foolproof. The consistent complaint of this type of sling arrangement was that you could not get the sling off the rifle and thus you were getting snagged up in the bush hopelessly by a non-adjustable sling you could not remove.​
IMG_0800.jpeg
The second means of affixing a sling to the large sling eyes was with a “fish hook” sling swivel. These swivels are vintage and quite valuable. In the US we call these winchester fish hook swivels. In England they call these Parker Hale fish hook swivels. When hooked around the sling studs it allowed the easy install and removal of a sling, but at the drawback that they rattle quite loudly and are quite annoying. While it’s a blessing to see these included with a vintage English rifle, they are collectibles more than practical tools for a modern hunt. The original fish hook swivels can sell from $75 to $250 a pair depending on era and country of origin.​
IMG_0799.jpeg
2.) Mid-century to present European rifles. If you own say a best grade Heym double rifle, or a nice mid-century Austrian stalking rifle, they have sling studs on them that look just like American “Uncle Mike’s” sling studs…but they are not! They are smaller in length than American studs and the hole is smaller. Uninformed owners frequently drill the holes oversized thinking they’ve solved the problem of getting sling swivels for these guns when all they did is damage a gun and ensure further damage of a gun so equipped. These undersized European studs and barrel bands are designed for a specific sling swivel made by EAW and Rechnagel in Germany. The sling swivels are quick detach, they do not rattle due to exacting tolerances, and most importantly they have an articulating hinge in them. This articulation prevents the sling swivel from hinging too far and damaging the stock and barrel of the rifle because they cannot clang around to a flat position that would rub the gun. They cost about $45-$60 a set for the sling swivels and they come in both a narrow 7/8” loop width (for skinny slings or skinny sling ends) and a larger 1” loop for the more common width of the end of a rifle sling. If you take anything from this article, please for the love of god do not drill out the sling stud holes on the barrel and stock of your European rifles. Get the right sling swivel, it isn’t an Uncle Mike’s!

IMG_0798.jpeg


3.) Lastly is the design that needs minimal description. The “Uncle Mikes” style sling swivel and studs are ubiquitous, found on 99% of the rifles every reader owns.

Leaving the realm of fact, now let’s go to the opinion of virtually all PHs and historical safari hunters regarding slings. The general concensus is they hate slings because A.) They snag, B.) They rattle, C.) They get in the way of getting on sticks quickly without excess movement blowing your stalk. My opinion is consistent with a century of expert hunting advice that is far more credible than my own opinion.

So a terse conclusion is don’t have slings on your safari rifles, they are as obnoxious as they are inconvenient, ruining more hunts than their utility delivers.

The longer answer is a better answer, however. A.) If you carry your rifle on long stalks you’ll get tired enough that you may drop your gun, B.) due to carry fatigue you eventually start walking right through the thorns scratching the hell out of your rifle’s stock while drawing blood all over your body which is of lesser concern. C.) The over shoulder carry holding the barrel is common in Africa, but it is so unsafe that it is not considered an appropriate carry method in any Hunter Education curriculum AND it ensures you need $1000 barrel rebluing after 1-2 safaris. You will wear the bluing right off the barrel carrying over shoulder, barrel forward.

So the exception to the sling rule is one I was introduced by African PHs. “The Dick Murray Leather Sling”. The Murray sling has a sliding buckle on it that allows you to instantly change the length of the sling. While walking, you have your rifle slinged. When you are nearing final approach, or you’re getting on sticks, a flick of the hand tightens the sling instantly to sit tight-and-flush to the underside of your rifle so that you don’t get hung up. They cost about $100 and they are the absolute best design for this purpose. If you ask many seasoned PHs that are anti-sling, they usually will say “no slings allowed, except Dick Murray slings”.

IMG_0801.jpeg
 
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Paul Robert’s in the U.K. also supplies a silent stalker sling that is considerably cheaper than a Rigby one
 
Thank you @rookhawk for starting an interesting thread. You have raised some good points. I hate noisy sling attachments when out hunting and … leather laces are a pain to deal with. The A-1 Murray sling appears to be a good option for those who either get confused by cordage OR have occasional coordination issues.
I find, as a former Troop Instructor in Knots, Bends and Hitches; that I have no real issue with knot attachments. I use nylon cord of sufficiently large diameter to easily attach/detach a sling when not using the ‘Uncle Mike’s’, originally (Paul) Jaeger system.
N.B. I can easily recall the diameters of cordage that I use for work positioning, safety, pulling, lowering, etcetera BUT the only time I check the actual diameter of small braided cordage is when I need to restock!
 
My wife and I have both been using Dick Murray slings for years now and absolutely love them. Top quality product. Also, if you have a preference for what sling swivels you want to use, Dick will install them. We chose Talon black stainless steel.

@rookhawk - Opinion on the Trader Keith canvas sling? I’ve heard nothing but good things about them as well.
 
My wife and I have both been using Dick Murray slings for years now and absolutely love them. Top quality product. Also, if you have a preference for what sling swivels you want to use, Dick will install them. We chose Talon black stainless steel.

@rookhawk - Opinion on the Trader Keith canvas sling? I’ve heard nothing but good things about them as well.
I have a NECG canvas sling marked Galco, it looks just like the Trader Keith one. It looks great but not easy to adjust. To be honest. The perspective that slings are just in the way is well represented by the canvas one I have. But it sure looks good and carries the rifle well.
 
Good write up. I have not taken a sling to Africa, but will do so next time. Alas, I must be getting old! 16-17 miles in a day carrying a 12+ pound rifle flat wore me out. Not enough water and my forearms and hands were actually cramping. How I miss the days of my youth. :)
 
My wife and I have both been using Dick Murray slings for years now and absolutely love them. Top quality product. Also, if you have a preference for what sling swivels you want to use, Dick will install them. We chose Talon black stainless steel.

@rookhawk - Opinion on the Trader Keith canvas sling? I’ve heard nothing but good things about them as well.

I have the trader Keith canvas sling with the narrow leather frogs on the end. It is definitely traditional in look. It is not quick to adjust whatsoever, nor is it exceptionally durable. Specific to durability, when it gets worked the belt loop sliders that cover the leather ends start to slide around, potentially sliding up enough that the brass hooks that go through the holes can slip out.

I used one with NECG swivels on my double rifle on safari. I knew it was going to be cumbersome and potentially snag in the Jesse. It did many times. However, I was willing to sacrifice odds of success to protect a particularly valuable rifle that I could not use a Dick Murray sling on due the euro sling swivels. (Dick Murray slings are too thick to slide through the euro swivel loops)

On my magazine rifles, I always use a Murray sling which works perfect. I was introduced to them by a sling-hating PH with 50 years experience in the Bush. He convinced me by borrowing his for a 14 day hunt.

Pic of Trader Keith sling attached so readers can follow along with the conversation.

IMG_0802.jpeg
 
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Great thread, thank you for initiating.
I heard The Prophet Kevin Robertson on The Big Game Hunting Podcast openly praise slings for buffalo and elephant hunting for the same reason you mentioned—if you walk 5-10 miles a day for 10 days you’re going to tire less with a rifle at sling arms than you are carrying it. There was no mention of sling pattern.
 
I purchased this sling in 1981. It's predecessor was, like the rifle that wore it, a veteran of WWII. Unfortunately, it met a smoldering demise during an early snowstorm that year. I was caught on the trail with my horses on the way in to elk camp and had to hole up for the night. Built a fire underneath a huge umbrella Engleman spruce and fell asleep with my Springfield beside me for "bear medicine". Woke up to find the fire had gone into the needle duff and creeped right up to me. The smell of burning wool pants brought me to my senses. And my rifle sling was burnt in two. Fortunately, both rifle and I escaped unscathed. So I acquired this sling and it served me well through many adventures and misadventures up to this day. The only drawback is it's held together with Chicago screws. The shifting tension on leather from shouldering and unshouldering causes the screws to come unthreaded. And as bad luck would have it, the sling came apart in the back country and half the Chicago screw went into orbit. I improvised at camp by cutting a slot in the leather long enough to "tie" the loose end to the swivel. Back at home I used a leather punch to make holes to lace the muzzle end together. The slit in leather made it impossible to replace the screw. I did take the other brass screw apart and buggered the threads right under the screw head. Put it back together and no more issues with it unscrewing itself.
20240806_111146.jpg

The drawback to "Uncle Mike's" style detachables are twofold. 1) They can be noisy. Sqeaky in particular. This can be a problem with any metal sling swivel and stud. Keep it oiled (or greased in foul weather). End of problem. 2) The pin that locks onto stud is merely pressed into the swivel housing. Very flimsy and eventually will fall apart if gun is worked hard. I've had them come apart at least three times. Usually there's plenty of warning as it becomes difficult to lock the loose pin. I have a set of Titan detachable swivels on backorder. A simple setup. Will see how they work. Made of grey titanium with black coating.
61aV1XUxOrL._AC_UF350,350_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg

I just received this sling from a Polish vendor on ebay.
20240806_111405.jpg

Very good quality leather and brass hardware. Sling is a little wider than I expected but it will be used on my heavy Mauser 404J so probably not a bad idea to have one that is wider. For elk/deer hunting with lighter 30-06 Springfield (pictured) and wearing a daypack, I prefer a thinner strap that will stay put between the pack's shoulder strap and my neck. Wider slings on top of the shoulder strap tend to keep sliding off my shoulder. This same fella makes nice replica military slings. I think I'll order one.
 
Day 1 of my first Buffalo hunt. My sling kept getting hung up on brush and I was getting the "stink-eye" from my tracker. I pulled it off at lunch
 
I always have a sling. I use Trader Keith slings on nice rifles, ugly rifles (plastic/composite stock) get a braided paracord sling, and stalking rifles have leather Vero Vellini slings.

Safe hunting
 
@rookhawk - Appreciate the info on the Trader Keith. I've always liked the looks of them but never pulled the trigger. If I did more inclement weather rifle hunting, I'd probably look for something like a Quake Claw sling like I have on my goose shotgun.

Here are the MCL slings with the Talon swivels we use on the Blaser R8's.
1722974113414.png
 
Fun fact: Dick Murray’s Dad, George, used to build saddles for Ryon’s Saddle Shop in Ft Worth, Texas. I still have one that he made for my Dad back in the 1960’s.
 
I leave and return home with slings on my rifles. After arrival and checking scope at the African outfitters lodge the sling comes off and carried in a small gear/ammo bag or in a cargo pocket if we are going to be making a long stalk. When the stalk/ hunt is over and a good hike back to the vehicle the sling is placed back on the rifle for 2 reasons:

1) helping to carry/drag the animal to the road.
2) to sling carry the rifle over my shoulder to the. vehicle where:
a) the sling is removed for the next stalk /hunt
b) its the end of the day, the sling is removed in my quarters once we arrive back at the
lodge
 
I always liked the military shooting sling for the reasons that @rookhawk states above. The problem is they are a pain to adjust with those stupid hooks.
I took rookhawks advice and bought the Murray. Top quality and super easy to adjust. It even makes putting it in a case easy.
 
I’ve had this conversation several times over the past few months and I thought it would be worth memorializing for others to understand. I’ll start with the factual differences and types from a user/collector’s perspective, then I’ll go to the opinion on what is good or bad on a safari.

There are 4 primary types of swivels in existence because there are 3 primary types of sling eyes. If you don’t know this, you’ll buy the wrong one!

1.) Vintage British rifles and early US Winchesters used a large oversized sling swivel stud. These small studs are actually quite valuable ($75 and up) in themselves because they are often missing from vintage guns. They were designed to work with two types of attachments.

The first type was a sling that had rawhide straps at both ends. This was the most preferred by the early great white hunters of Africa because it was absolutely silent. These slings are quite uncommon today, with both Trader Keith and Rigby creating reproductions of the slings. The rawhide tags are soaked in a leather conditioner, a looping knot was fashioned to attach them to the rifle, and when dry the knots would tighten to be virtually foolproof. The consistent complaint of this type of sling arrangement was that you could not get the sling off the rifle and thus you were getting snagged up in the bush hopelessly by a non-adjustable sling you could not remove.​
The second means of affixing a sling to the large sling eyes was with a “fish hook” sling swivel. These swivels are vintage and quite valuable. In the US we call these winchester fish hook swivels. In England they call these Parker Hale fish hook swivels. When hooked around the sling studs it allowed the easy install and removal of a sling, but at the drawback that they rattle quite loudly and are quite annoying. While it’s a blessing to see these included with a vintage English rifle, they are collectibles more than practical tools for a modern hunt. The original fish hook swivels can sell from $75 to $250 a pair depending on era and country of origin.​
2.) Mid-century to present European rifles. If you own say a best grade Heym double rifle, or a nice mid-century Austrian stalking rifle, they have sling studs on them that look just like American “Uncle Mike’s” sling studs…but they are not! They are smaller in length than American studs and the hole is smaller. Uninformed owners frequently drill the holes oversized thinking they’ve solved the problem of getting sling swivels for these guns when all they did is damage a gun and ensure further damage of a gun so equipped. These undersized European studs and barrel bands are designed for a specific sling swivel made by EAW and Rechnagel in Germany. The sling swivels are quick detach, they do not rattle due to exacting tolerances, and most importantly they have an articulating hinge in them. This articulation prevents the sling swivel from hinging too far and damaging the stock and barrel of the rifle because they cannot clang around to a flat position that would rub the gun. They cost about $45-$60 a set for the sling swivels and they come in both a narrow 7/8” loop width (for skinny slings or skinny sling ends) and a larger 1” loop for the more common width of the end of a rifle sling. If you take anything from this article, please for the love of god do not drill out the sling stud holes on the barrel and stock of your European rifles. Get the right sling swivel, it isn’t an Uncle Mike’s!

View attachment 624588

3.) Lastly is the design that needs minimal description. The “Uncle Mikes” style sling swivel and studs are ubiquitous, found on 99% of the rifles every reader owns.

Leaving the realm of fact, now let’s go to the opinion of virtually all PHs and historical safari hunters regarding slings. The general concensus is they hate slings because A.) They snag, B.) They rattle, C.) They get in the way of getting on sticks quickly without excess movement blowing your stalk. My opinion is consistent with a century of expert hunting advice that is far more credible than my own opinion.

So a terse conclusion is don’t have slings on your safari rifles, they are as obnoxious as they are inconvenient, ruining more hunts than their utility delivers.

The longer answer is a better answer, however. A.) If you carry your rifle on long stalks you’ll get tired enough that you may drop your gun, B.) due to carry fatigue you eventually start walking right through the thorns scratching the hell out of your rifle’s stock while drawing blood all over your body which is of lesser concern. C.) The over shoulder carry holding the barrel is common in Africa, but it is so unsafe that it is not considered an appropriate carry method in any Hunter Education curriculum AND it ensures you need $1000 barrel rebluing after 1-2 safaris. You will wear the bluing right off the barrel carrying over shoulder, barrel forward.

So the exception to the sling rule is one I was introduced by African PHs. “The Dick Murray Leather Sling”. The Murray sling has a sliding buckle on it that allows you to instantly change the length of the sling. While walking, you have your rifle slinged. When you are nearing final approach, or you’re getting on sticks, a flick of the hand tightens the sling instantly to sit tight-and-flush to the underside of your rifle so that you don’t get hung up. They cost about $100 and they are the absolute best design for this purpose. If you ask many seasoned PHs that are anti-sling, they usually will say “no slings allowed, except Dick Murray slings”.

View attachment 624589
Good info. Now I have a question. I inherited my dad's .30-06. It was custom built for a friend of his in Germany just after WW II. Of course it was built on a Mauser 98 action. It has two sling swivels, one on the barrel, and the other in the usual place on the butt stock. They cannot be removed and the inside of the loop only measures 3/4". All standard 1" slings in the US cannot fit in the narrow swivels. Dies anyone make a sling to fit this rifle?
 
Good info. Now I have a question. I inherited my dad's .30-06. It was custom built for a friend of his in Germany just after WW II. Of course it was built on a Mauser 98 action. It has two sling swivels, one on the barrel, and the other in the usual place on the butt stock. They cannot be removed and the inside of the loop only measures 3/4". All standard 1" slings in the US cannot fit in the narrow swivels. Dies anyone make a sling to fit this rifle?

Sure. Trader Keith’s sells a 7/8” wide safari sling. (Only the leather ends are narrow, then it widens)
 

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