Help with reloading needed

[Cornelius 1]

Hi there.I wil be buying a 308 or 30-06 rifle. I have a reloading "Lee" kit For my 7.65 pistol. What do i need for the rifle to get started. Never loaded before.

 

[greyfox]

Where are you located? See if you can find a neighbor or friend that reloads and let them show you how, It's not hard, a little expensive at first, but well worth it!

 

[gordon-kruger]

If you don't have a neighbor... it's some good and informative stuff at YouTube... and use certificated reloading data, start with low powders charges and work your self up to the load that fit your rifle. I would say it's not very difficult, but do your self a big favor and buy a chronograph to measure the bullet speed, in other wise you will never know how your load perform in reality.

 

[Cornelius 1]

Im from Richards bay in kzn.Thanks guys.Will find out who loads nearby.

 

[Pheroze]

I do not have anyone local to learn from but I have now fired off my first bunch of rifle reloads. I used the Lee and Hornady manual. I also read advice off of the GS Custom website and Loaddata.com. I bought the Lee kit, chronometers and a better scale. Most importantly, I asked questions of the folks here on AH. So far my gun is still in one piece. My advice is take it really slow and ask lots of questions. I found my second set of reloads went a lot easier.

You mentioned a rifle and pistol. Make sure you keep your powders for each separate so no inadvertent errors occur as I understand that could be a major safety issue. I treat the loading bench as a laboratory and try to make it as neat as possible.

I hope that helps. Good luck!

 

[Cornelius 1]

Thanks pheroz.
what is the difference in the powders?
What powder do you use on the 308,30-06 calibre and other rifles?

 

[Pheroze]

I load for a 30-06 and 375. I started with the 06. I have been using IMR 4350. I also have on my shelf 3lbs of varget. I have found that you should buy a pile of whatever you can get your hands on because it disappears really quickly! That goes for all components.

I believe pistol powders will do serious damage to a rifle. I have no idea why but it is something I have read. I suspect they must be very fast burning powders.

 

[blackdog001blackdog001]

The single best thing you can do is purchase a current, bound reloading manual from one of the component or bullet manufacturers. Most experienced reloaders have several. Nosler is a good one that I like.

 

[ZG47]

Start with a good manual. Lyman used to be the best for novice shooters, with important text in orange or in prominent text boxes BUT ... starting with the 48th edition, they cut that out and reduced the page count. Shooting journalists have not advised their readers of this con job!

I recommend Speer No. 14 as your basic text. It is better than the Lyman manual used to be. I suggest that you read it from cover to cover at least twice, before you commence loading. That is what I did with the Lyman 47th edition and I have not blown up any rifles!

One good tip for understanding bullet makers' manuals is as follows.

If you see three profiles for same weight bullets on the same page, e.g. .308 180-gr with round nose, spitzer and spitzer boat-tail shapes, with a single data table, you break the powder charge data into three sections, as follows:

The third containing the slowest powders (typically at the bottom of the table) is for the round/flat nose bullet, which has the longest shank (parallel section) and which provides the greatest friction in the barrel.

The middle third will relate to spitzer, i.e. pointed nose with base, bullets.

The top third, with the fastest powders will be for the spitzer boat-tail bullets.

YES, you might be able to push things a little bit, with some experience under your belt and a well worn barrel but that is not a good way to start!

Best of luck and ... do not buy an electronic reloading scale. The only thing they are really good for is a quick check of bullet weight, and then only if the batteries are fresh, the scale is on a stable, level surface and there are no drafts. I have also come across a recent report of such scales having to be reset after several dozen charges have been weighed.

 

[Mr. 16 gauge]

If you have a LEE kit for your pistol, you should be able to use the press, etc. for your rifle as well. You didn't say what you got in your "kit", but some of the things you will need will be: rifle dies for your caliber rifle, a powder measure scale, a means of trimming cases (I use the LEE system, with the pilot and lock stud and cutter), a means of lubrication for the cases before you size them, a means of cleaning the cases, and components. As for powders, bullets, primers, etc,.....I don't know what you have available in S.A. Here in the states, I reload for both the .308 and the .30-06; while you will find some powders that you can use in both, you will find that those powders are usually not the best for either respective caliber. For the .30-06, I like the following: H414, IMR4350, IMR4064, and Reloader 19. In the .308, I've had good luck with H4895 and H335 (I should mention that my only .308 is a semi auto).
I stand with the others in recommending a good reloading manual.....you can find all sorts of info on the net (a lot of it just plain wrong!), and the net is a good jumping off point, but I would rely on printed manuals before I trusted any data I got off the internet.

 

[Panielsen]

Be sure to get the Lee Zip Trim. That way you can trim your cases after firing. The Lee product has a pin that is made for .308 Win., and really simple to operate. I like the Hornady manual as I load .45 cap, .308 Win., .375 Ruger, .223, .338 Lapua, and soon .458 Win Mag. The trick to the manuals is find the data that gives you the FPS your looking for. Then it is just a matter of what powder you like, or more correctly your rifle likes. Be careful with the primers, and also keep in mind that powders all meter differently. When loading rifles, I use my RCBS single stage, and measure every charge. For my .308, my long range tool, I even weigh and separate bullets by weight. That is a little beyond where you are now though. Have a good micrometer to ensure your finished cartridge is the proper length. When you get deeper in, then there are ways to make the cartridges specifically for your rifle as far as length. Another thing I do for my LR work. I started out with Lee products and presses. I eventually moved on to RCBS and Hornady, but there is nothing wrong with Lee. Some guys are dye hard Dillon men, but I never did try them. Keep us posted!!!!

 

[Cornelius 1]

Joh.......thanks for all the info guys.Wil see what i can find for a manual. Wil let you know how it goes☺