MOZAMBIQUE: It Was The Safari of A Lifetime

ftrovato

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It Was The Dream Of My Life, So Far…

2024 Mozambique Cape Buffalo Hunt.

I landed in Johannesburg, South Africa on the evening of August 30th 2024 at 6:00PM to finally live out what had been my lifelong dream to hunt Buffalo in Mozambique.

I’ve been fortunate enough to hunt all around the United States and Canada, looking for game ranging from peasants and ducks up to caribou and elk. While I will always have fond memories from these trips, the “big one” always escaped me; a chance to go to Africa and join a safari hunt in some of the most rugged and challenging environments on earth. I had dreamed about it since I began hunting, and planned the trip in my mind for decades. And now, to kick off my retirement, it was really going to happen.

After a smooth 16 hour flight from Newark International Airport - and some thankfully easy customs and rifle claims - I finally made my way to catch up on some sleep at the City Lodge Airport Hotel before heading out in to my adventure.

Early the next day, I met my Outfitter & Professional Hunter - Dempsey Bayly from @BAYLY SIPPEL SAFARIS. Dempsey and I had enjoyed many conversations over the past year in planning this adventure we were finally about to set out on. He was always informative and patient in helping prepare me for my first African Safari in the great wilds of the Gaza Province of Mozambique which forms part of the Greater Limpopo Trans-frontier Park. Dempsey arrived with a big smile, a warm welcome and a firm handshake. Together we loaded my bags and were off in his Toyota for our first nights stay close to the town of Hoedspruit in a stunning lodge overlooking the Olifants river!

Dempsey has a professional relationship and friendship with the owner of the camp, Wayne Wagner. Wayne is also the owner, along with Oosie in the hunting area in Mozambique’s Mutemba Safaris which was to be our final destination. Our arrival found us greeted by Wayne, his wife Tao, and Ian Brown, a PH that would be taking another hunter of Dempsey’s to hunt in Mozambique with us.

Early that evening we went for a game drive along the Olifants river seeing many animals including elephant, hippo, crocs, kudu, bushbuck, impala, baboon and monkeys along with fresh tracks of several lions. This was a wonderful opener for what was to come in Mozambique!

We proceeded to have an excellent dinner, sat around the fire and enjoyed a cocktail or two whilst the gents hinted at what I was to expect in Mozambique. That night I went to sleep with the excitement of a 5 year old on Christmas Eve. What a wonderful feeling to have at 60 years of age!

We were all up early for a wonderful breakfast, a quick goodbye and a thank you to Tao as we started the next leg of our safari- An 11 hour jeep ride into Mozambique! First we drove through the Kruger National Park where we saw countless plains game and several old buffalo bulls to get the heart going! I took photos of everything to share with hunting friends back home as Dempsey cared to point out that the animals we would find in Mozambique would not be posing for pictures as they were here in Kruger!

Leaving the park to enter Mozambique through the customs and boarder patrol area went smoothly as we were the only vehicle there. Behind the Customs Office was an actual pig sty, and in the office they wrote everyone’s passport details into a big paper ledger with zero electronic influence - we were definitely getting out of the city! Within a mile or two of entering Mozambique the road ended and quickly degraded into a four-wheel drive dirt track that we would proceed to inch along for the next (bone rattling) 150+ miles. Something told me that the Million Dollar Highway in the US was about to take a back seat to the most exciting journey road of all time!

Shortly into the trip we forded the Limpopo River which was more sand than water now at the end of the dry season. Next, as we continued Northwards we passed over the Nuanetsi River bed which was no more than a sand bed. The only town we drove through was Chicualacuala. Over the next several hours drive we passed through a few bush villages of local residents that had no electricity or running water. These villages were located close to the mostly dry rivers where women were seen washing clothing and gathering drinking water. Dempsey pointed out there are crocs in all of the waterways we passed, but as water is life the locals have no choice but to live with the risk of being snatched by crocs.

As we worked our way to the final track I learned we had reached the border between Zimbabwe and Mozambique, and the Eastern Zimbabwe border marked the start of the second largest national park in Zimbabwe, the Gonarezhou National Park. Translated to English it means ‘The Place of Elephants’ and it certainly lived up to its name! This park is home to one of the largest concentrations of Elephants in all of Africa and borders the concession that we would hunt.

This length of road was lined with metal fence posts, but no actual fencing. Dempsey said there had once been a real fence made out of strands of wire but poachers had come and stolen the wire to make traps. In the coming weeks I would see first-hand the impact and suffering caused by a poacher’s careless and indiscriminate snare. The anti-poaching efforts of the Mutemba safari camp cannot be faulted for a second, but there is still so much more work to be done.

Just when it seemed like my kidneys couldn’t take anymore bouncing on the dirt paths, we turned into the 50,000 acre concession. Here we were going to spend the next 14 days hunting some of the finest and most wild free-range bush in all of Africa. With the concession being part of the Greater Limpopo Trans-Frontier Park System, we were now amidst many million acres of free range Africa stretching through Mozambique, Zimbabwe and South Africa. The animals here live in one of the great remaining areas of wildlife preservation that Africa still has to offer. The System is unlike anything I had ever seen before, with no light pollution at night making for the most beautiful star gazing, and sunrises to start every morning (or end every night hunt).

We pulled into camp dusty and bruised and were eagerly greeted by several local staff members. These locals live at the camp year-round fulfilling various roles. They offered us warm smiles, traditional African handshakes with what was clearly great pride and excitement as to be able to share what they had cultivated on this property over the last 2 decades! I was taken to my beautiful tent with all the necessary amenities including lights and clean water provided by solar power along with hot water that was heated by way of a wood fire.

After freshening up, I was off to the communal area & dining tent to get further acquainted with those who would become part of the memories I would keep for the rest of my life! We had a few drinks, a wonderful dinner and discussed what our first day on safari would look like. This conversation covered the discussion around cape buffalo and what a proper bull meant to each of the Outfitters, PH’s and of course, to me, the hunter. We were all in agreement that we would focus on trying to harvest the oldest of dagga boys we could find.

Day One (To Follow)....

Photos of the drive in...
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Well written. Looking forward to the remainder.
 
Excellent ! Looking forward to the rest
 
Congrats on what I hope for you is many safaris in Africa. You seem to be off to a great start and you're in good hands with Demps, he is a true professional in every sense of the word. Looking forward to reading about your adventure.
 
My buddy and I hunted north of there about a month later at the very end of the season. Excited to read your report.
 
Enjoyed your report very much thus far and looking forward to the chapters to come. Thanks for taking the time to tell your story.
 
Great start. Can’t wait to hear about the rest of your trip.
I hunted that same place with Wayne and Ian several years back. It is truly a special place. They are good people and with Tsala safaris having the block just north of them. I can only imagine it will just get better and better. I know Wayne has been running a good anti poaching for some time there. His average elephant size can attest to that and there old dugga boys they get every year.
 
I am glad you are now able to start your retirement off will a life's dream on your bucket list. I enjoy your writing style. Looking forward to the rest of your adventure, thank you for bring us all along with you.
 
Great way to kick off retirement. I like your writing style. Looking forward to more.
Bruce
 
It Was The Dream Of My Life, So Far…

2024 Mozambique Cape Buffalo Hunt.

I landed in Johannesburg, South Africa on the evening of August 30th 2024 at 6:00PM to finally live out what had been my lifelong dream to hunt Buffalo in Mozambique.

I’ve been fortunate enough to hunt all around the United States and Canada, looking for game ranging from peasants and ducks up to caribou and elk. While I will always have fond memories from these trips, the “big one” always escaped me; a chance to go to Africa and join a safari hunt in some of the most rugged and challenging environments on earth. I had dreamed about it since I began hunting, and planned the trip in my mind for decades. And now, to kick off my retirement, it was really going to happen.

After a smooth 16 hour flight from Newark International Airport - and some thankfully easy customs and rifle claims - I finally made my way to catch up on some sleep at the City Lodge Airport Hotel before heading out in to my adventure.

Early the next day, I met my Outfitter & Professional Hunter - Dempsey Bayly from @BAYLY SIPPEL SAFARIS. Dempsey and I had enjoyed many conversations over the past year in planning this adventure we were finally about to set out on. He was always informative and patient in helping prepare me for my first African Safari in the great wilds of the Gaza Province of Mozambique which forms part of the Greater Limpopo Trans-frontier Park. Dempsey arrived with a big smile, a warm welcome and a firm handshake. Together we loaded my bags and were off in his Toyota for our first nights stay close to the town of Hoedspruit in a stunning lodge overlooking the Olifants river!

Dempsey has a professional relationship and friendship with the owner of the camp, Wayne Wagner. Wayne is also the owner, along with Oosie in the hunting area in Mozambique’s Mutemba Safaris which was to be our final destination. Our arrival found us greeted by Wayne, his wife Tao, and Ian Brown, a PH that would be taking another hunter of Dempsey’s to hunt in Mozambique with us.

Early that evening we went for a game drive along the Olifants river seeing many animals including elephant, hippo, crocs, kudu, bushbuck, impala, baboon and monkeys along with fresh tracks of several lions. This was a wonderful opener for what was to come in Mozambique!

We proceeded to have an excellent dinner, sat around the fire and enjoyed a cocktail or two whilst the gents hinted at what I was to expect in Mozambique. That night I went to sleep with the excitement of a 5 year old on Christmas Eve. What a wonderful feeling to have at 60 years of age!

We were all up early for a wonderful breakfast, a quick goodbye and a thank you to Tao as we started the next leg of our safari- An 11 hour jeep ride into Mozambique! First we drove through the Kruger National Park where we saw countless plains game and several old buffalo bulls to get the heart going! I took photos of everything to share with hunting friends back home as Dempsey cared to point out that the animals we would find in Mozambique would not be posing for pictures as they were here in Kruger!

Leaving the park to enter Mozambique through the customs and boarder patrol area went smoothly as we were the only vehicle there. Behind the Customs Office was an actual pig sty, and in the office they wrote everyone’s passport details into a big paper ledger with zero electronic influence - we were definitely getting out of the city! Within a mile or two of entering Mozambique the road ended and quickly degraded into a four-wheel drive dirt track that we would proceed to inch along for the next (bone rattling) 150+ miles. Something told me that the Million Dollar Highway in the US was about to take a back seat to the most exciting journey road of all time!

Shortly into the trip we forded the Limpopo River which was more sand than water now at the end of the dry season. Next, as we continued Northwards we passed over the Nuanetsi River bed which was no more than a sand bed. The only town we drove through was Chicualacuala. Over the next several hours drive we passed through a few bush villages of local residents that had no electricity or running water. These villages were located close to the mostly dry rivers where women were seen washing clothing and gathering drinking water. Dempsey pointed out there are crocs in all of the waterways we passed, but as water is life the locals have no choice but to live with the risk of being snatched by crocs.

As we worked our way to the final track I learned we had reached the border between Zimbabwe and Mozambique, and the Eastern Zimbabwe border marked the start of the second largest national park in Zimbabwe, the Gonarezhou National Park. Translated to English it means ‘The Place of Elephants’ and it certainly lived up to its name! This park is home to one of the largest concentrations of Elephants in all of Africa and borders the concession that we would hunt.

This length of road was lined with metal fence posts, but no actual fencing. Dempsey said there had once been a real fence made out of strands of wire but poachers had come and stolen the wire to make traps. In the coming weeks I would see first-hand the impact and suffering caused by a poacher’s careless and indiscriminate snare. The anti-poaching efforts of the Mutemba safari camp cannot be faulted for a second, but there is still so much more work to be done.

Just when it seemed like my kidneys couldn’t take anymore bouncing on the dirt paths, we turned into the 50,000 acre concession. Here we were going to spend the next 14 days hunting some of the finest and most wild free-range bush in all of Africa. With the concession being part of the Greater Limpopo Trans-Frontier Park System, we were now amidst many million acres of free range Africa stretching through Mozambique, Zimbabwe and South Africa. The animals here live in one of the great remaining areas of wildlife preservation that Africa still has to offer. The System is unlike anything I had ever seen before, with no light pollution at night making for the most beautiful star gazing, and sunrises to start every morning (or end every night hunt).

We pulled into camp dusty and bruised and were eagerly greeted by several local staff members. These locals live at the camp year-round fulfilling various roles. They offered us warm smiles, traditional African handshakes with what was clearly great pride and excitement as to be able to share what they had cultivated on this property over the last 2 decades! I was taken to my beautiful tent with all the necessary amenities including lights and clean water provided by solar power along with hot water that was heated by way of a wood fire.

After freshening up, I was off to the communal area & dining tent to get further acquainted with those who would become part of the memories I would keep for the rest of my life! We had a few drinks, a wonderful dinner and discussed what our first day on safari would look like. This conversation covered the discussion around cape buffalo and what a proper bull meant to each of the Outfitters, PH’s and of course, to me, the hunter. We were all in agreement that we would focus on trying to harvest the oldest of dagga boys we could find.

Day One (To Follow)....

Photos of the drive in...
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Day One. At 5:30 AM I entered the dining tent and was greeted by Wayne. His optimism and stately cheerful exterior was contagious. Clearly this distinguished man was filled with excitement and anticipation to show me all that Mutemba had to offer. We had a quick continental breakfast where I shared my thoughts that a person only gets to have one first day to hunt free range cape buffalo and today was that day for me! A dream in the making for over 40 years.

The first item on the agenda was to shoot and check the rifles after the long journey. With great pride, I unsleeved my Heym 89B 500 Nitro Express rifle that I had spent much time with over the previous 18 months getting acquainted as well as perfecting my ammunition loads. After all, this was a traditional old world buffalo hunt and I planned on taking up the challenge with an old world style English double rifle.

Naturally the PH’s and Trackers watched with a close eye hoping that I would demonstrate that I could confidently handle the rifle. At the end of the day it really is the hunter's responsibility to stay focused, handle their rifle with confidence and be prepared to shoot with precision when the opportunity presents itself. It seems I, and my Nitro Express rifle, passed the PH’s test, and it was off to the first waterhole!

Once out, Dempsey immediately put the trackers into action looking for fresh buffalo tracks. As I watched the trackers set off in a large circle around the water hole it was evident they took their trade very seriously. Their concentration was palpable, and the trackers were immediately spotting signs that I had never noticed in all my years of hunting.

Whilst strolling around the waterhole, suddenly and appearing out of what seemed like thin air, a family of 8 elephant cows and calves were on top of us. We found ourselves between them and the waterhole! This was more anxiety provoking than words can express! The matriarch of the herd flared her ears, vocalized a loud squeal and started to walk very briskly toward us making it clear that we were not welcome.

Dempsey quickly grabbed me by the shirt and started fast stepping towards the truck. However, to get away we had to go towards the elephants who were still closing in on us and it was clear we were all going to converge at the Toyota at a similar time.

As we reached the truck Wayne stepped out in front of us waving his hands and yelling at the charging elephant. This huge herbivorous pachyderm and all of her followers quickly stopped, paused, turned and then continued fast walking 90 degrees to where we were. They then took a small detour, circled around us and then much to our relief the herd headed to the water. We breathed a huge exhale of relief and needless to say, we gave them a wide berth. Elephant cows are not your friends and the expression ‘don’t poke the pig’ came to mind, only in this case it was ‘don’t poke the humongous elephants!’

After the unexpected elephant excitement, the trackers let us know there were no obviously fresh buffalo tracks, so we set off for the next waterhole. Within moments, the trackers shared the news that a single bull track was heading northwards. The wind was right and we decided to take up the tracks. I could feel the excitement building – this was it! I was going to get my chance 40 years in the making!

Minutes of tracking slowly turned into an hour with still no sign of the bull slowing his walk. We continued on slowly and about an hour and a half into the walk the trackers paused, consulted amongst each other and reported that - although they couldn’t see it, they could tell by their skill and experience - the Buff was looking for a place to lay down in the thick mopanie to escape the heat of the day and chew his cud.

As we slowly moved through the shoulder high scrub mopanie I felt the wind brush across the back of my neck- certainly not what any of us wanted to feel, and we exchanged glances of concern! After the encounter with the elephants, we had to be on alert. Onwards we went, ever more cautiously when out of nowhere we heard a rumble.

Directly in front of us was Mr. Buff, and it was clear he had caught our scent.

The bull appeared for that moment to live up to his reputation for being grumpy and unpredictable. I held my breath as I imagined getting charged at by a second wild animal in the space of a few hours. Luckily, after a very, very long moment, this most formidable of Africa’s wild bovids decided his exit strategy was a fast run directly away from us.

By this point the heat of the day was starting to set in and with it the wind started swirling. Dempsey felt we should leave the tracks and begin our walk back to the truck before the temperature reached the forecasted 38 C and we pushed the bull out of the concession area, as he was likely to hang around without any further pressure. And with that, the afternoon found us hunting plains game.

The Buffalo would have to wait...

Day Two to follow.

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Everyone always thinks about the worst thing that can happen, maybe ask yourself what's the best outcome that could happen?
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