Oak and Leather Case DIY

Aaron N

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With the amount of skill craftsmen on this site, I’m wondering if anyone has attempted to make their own trunk case? It seems like it could be a fun little project to tackle.
 
While I am capable of making objects like that, (I made an inlaid backgammon board) I wouldn't want this generation of airport handlers touching anything I had spent that much time and money crafting. Others may not have that much emotional attachment to their hobbies.
 
It is actually on my long list of Items to build. I recently did a leather covered jewelry box for my wife that turned out pretty well. I just need to figure out which rifle I want to make one for.
 
While I am capable of making objects like that, (I made an inlaid backgammon board) I wouldn't want this generation of airport handlers touching anything I had spent that much time and money crafting. Others may not have that much emotional attachment to their hobbies.
I don’t think it would ever get near an airport for the exact reason your mention.
 
Not oak and leather but Rimu and felt just to have something to transport it in because of its overall length.
Much simpler than the OP sugested but it is only a matter of degrees to do something more complicated.
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LSA 577-450.jpg
 
If you are going to use oak, only use stainless steel, brass, bronze or aluminium for the hardware. Oak contains a significant amount of tannin which is reported to have a nasty effect on steel. Old wrought iron components probably survive due to the significant percentage of carbon that they apparently contain. This is why carpenters go back to timber pegs/wedges and/or use stainless steel bolts when making and installing old style oaken portal frames; either to restore old buildings such as barns OR to create a new building in an older style.
 
Not oak and leather but Rimu and felt just to have something to transport it in because of its overall length.
Much simpler than the OP sugested but it is only a matter of degrees to do something more complicated.
View attachment 443784

View attachment 443785
You’re right, I don’t think it would be overly complicated. Putting down the blaize perfectly smooth would be the biggest challenge in my opinion.

Your case looks great, I especially like the cartridge holder!
 
CM McKenze, your wife's jewelry box is as beautiful as it is unique. I really like how she has the deterrents packed in it.
 
CM McKenze, your wife's jewelry box is as beautiful as it is unique. I really like how she has the deterrents packed in it.
She goes through phases where she does some sort of competitive shooting. Those are her mounted shooting pistols. Now she is onto the tactical games so the revolvers got stuffed in the jewelry box.
 
Not oak and leather but Rimu and felt just to have something to transport it in because of its overall length.
Much simpler than the OP sugested but it is only a matter of degrees to do something more complicated.
View attachment 443784

View attachment 443785
Your case seems well done, are the miters splined with something? That would be my only concern as far as durability. I must tell you; however, that the star of the show for me is the wood on that rifle! It must have taken a month of Sundays to find a stick with grain that ran just so and was straight enough for the forend. Truly impressive.
 
Your case seems well done, are the miters splined with something? That would be my only concern as far as durability. I must tell you; however, that the star of the show for me is the wood on that rifle! It must have taken a month of Sundays to find a stick with grain that ran just so and was straight enough for the forend. Truly impressive.
Because this case was never intended for airline mishandling etc, the corner miters were simply glued and pinned in both directions with light furniture pins. The airgun pins are 1 3/16 long with square shank of .04 and head of .075x.04 so very fine and when done with head going in direction of the grain they are almost invisible and with a drop of glue in the light depression virtually dissapares after sanding.

The blank was a Mannlicher blank from NZ Walnut. Brian had some well grained blanks for the long slim forends. I had a number of them for various mannlicher stocks as well as martini restocks.
Photo0950.jpg
577-450 second pic.png
Photo0962.jpg
 
Because this case was never intended for airline mishandling etc, the corner miters were simply glued and pinned in both directions with light furniture pins. The airgun pins are 1 3/16 long with square shank of .04 and head of .075x.04 so very fine and when done with head going in direction of the grain they are almost invisible and with a drop of glue in the light depression virtually dissapares after sanding.

The blank was a Mannlicher blank from NZ Walnut. Brian had some well grained blanks for the long slim forends. I had a number of them for various mannlicher stocks as well as martini restocks.
View attachment 443856View attachment 443857View attachment 443858
I’ve always admired your work sir! Every since I noticed your .404 online years ago.
 
What did you use for the top and bottom of this case?
All wood is Rimu, a NZ native species. Technically a softwood but hard enough for furniture applications where it shines. A great deal of the older NZ homes all have Rimu framing timbers but it may only be milled now in a sustainable manner so is much harder to get.
 
All wood is Rimu, a NZ native species. Technically a softwood but hard enough for furniture applications where it shines. A great deal of the older NZ homes all have Rimu framing timbers but it may only be milled now in a sustainable manner so is much harder to get.
The outer frames are 1x2 or 1x3 I’m assuming, but what are the top and bottom? Solid panelling?
 

At this price, it’s seems futile to even attempt this myself.
 

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