Old Barnes X

Fr8liner

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Looking for help on a load to start with for the old Barnes X, no grooves.
Want to load 200grains for a 300 H&H, any advice appreciated.
Please note I have posted on another forum, apologies for those on both sites, but I am just trying to make very sure. I have had serious warning about using Tsx data on Xs
 
Do yourself a favor and toss those. Buy the newer TTSX bullets and you will be much better off from a load/accuracy point as well as the terminal performance standpoint. I have loaded both and speak from much experience.
If you must use them for reasons I will never understand I have the old manual with loads for the following powders: XMR4350 &3100, RL19 & 22, H4350 & 450 & 4831, IMR4831 & 7828, Norma204 & MRP and last Win WMR.
So If you want loads let me know what powders you have to work with.

But SEROIUSLY just get the newer TTSX(better than TSX) as they are Soooooo much easier to get an accurate load with and give better terminal ballistics
 
Happened across a box, thought it was a deal. Have been scolded properly for my stupidity so plan to load some test them, if they hit the paper where they meant to then will load the rest and store them for hunting. Use cheaper stuff for everyday range shoot.
I using H4831SC, thank you for your help.
 
I was not scolding you for stupidity. I was trying to help. Since you want to go ahead it matters little to me. So keep your sarcasm to yourself especially when asking for help. NOW that is scolding as you say or just me not putting up with crap.

NOW: You said you have H4831SC. Here is the info from Barnes #3 manual listing the 200grXFB bullet for the 300H&H Mag loading using H4381 which you know is interchangeable with H4831SC. :)
Min 66grs= 2681fps
Max 71grs= 2884fps
It was one of 3 "recommended Powders" for that cartridge bullet combo.
Barnes recommends that the bullets be seated .050" off the rifling for best accuracy and adjust as needed or as mag dimensions allow. They also suggest a VLD Chamfering tool be used on the case neck opening before seating the bullets.
They trimmed to 2.840" and used Rem 9.5 primers.
They also state that you need to get all the fouling out of the barrel before shooting the Barnes bullets(this is also true for the newer bullets) to get accuracy and less fouling. This is most important with the older bullets as they do not have the relief grooves the newer bullets have. That alone makes the newer bullets less fussy to shoot---but you know that. :) You need to use a good copper solvent(not #9) usually with ammonia to get all the jacket fouling out before shooting the barnes---But you know that also :)---he said with a bit of sarcasm. They suggest Barnes CR-10 solvent but Sweets 7.62 or Butches bore shine has worked just as well well for me after using Wipe-Out first. When I use the barnes CR-10 I also use the Wipe-out first. Makes the cleaning go so much better.

Please note the solvent choices other than the suggested barnes solvent is "my choice" which has worked well for me in developing several different loads with the old bullets and old coated bullets both with were a pain in the rear for some cartridges/rifles/pistols. Those choices of solvent have been excellent for load development for the newer TTSX in 257R/25-06/257W/6.5X55/264win mag/7mm-08/7mmRem mg/308win/30-06/300Win mag/338Win mag also. I have a load with older bullets for my 44mag also with the solvents listed.

You do know the loading for the older X-bullet and the newer TTSX(or if you must TSX) bullets are different and will probably shoot to a different place as well as have different FPS. I can also give you Barnes bullet drop info for your loads if desired. I also have the newer book with TTSX/TSX data if needed. Barnes data is DIFFERENT than data for lead core bullets. Also most(not all) lead core bullets do not have a pure copper jacket. Swift bullets do and I clean the firearm like I would for Barnes bullets when shooting Swift bullets which I really like especially in hotter cartridges/loads.

Sarcasm aside good luck with your H&H and the X-Bullet

Yes the data between the 2 bullets is different and TSX?TTSX data is generally too hot for the X-Bullet
 
Whoah, apologies apologies. I didn't mean you scolded me:A Ignore::A Ignore::A Ignore:
I was referring to my buddies at home who I reload with. It's an expression we have, they weren't too bad, but just said I had wasted money and time for the same reason you mentioned.

Thank you very much for the help, that's what I enjoy about the site and I hope all is okay?
Friends?:A Camping:
 
Looking for help on a load to start with for the old Barnes X, no grooves.
Want to load 200grains for a 300 H&H, any advice appreciated.
Please note I have posted on another forum, apologies for those on both sites, but I am just trying to make very sure. I have had serious warning about using Tsx data on Xs

I would just start with the lowest listed load for the same weight bullet as published (I would compare several reloading manuals) for any lead core jacketed bullet or the Barnes TSX. Work up from there as usual. I also have an older Barnes manual so if you don't get the information you need, just PM me.
 
I thought it was me. Sorry for my reaction. I owe you an apology.

If you would like more help on the old or new Barnes bullets just let me know and I will do so without the sarcasm.

"I" would not use data for lead core bullets with barnes bullets. You can get into trouble real fast. Same with using TTSX/TSX data for the X-bullet. I have done quite a bit of work with the barnes bullets and had a number of conversations with them about load data.

My 2 Cents
 
Before I went to Zimbabwe in 2001, I set out to develop loads for my Ruger 77 .338 Win Mag and my Remington 700 Classic .35 Whelen. I was going to take the one that shot most accurately.
I had heard how good Barnes bullets were (these were the "old ones" like you have). I spent $200 on 225 grain .338s and 225 grain .358s.
The .338 shot the Barnes into 2" at best and the copper fouling was horrible. The .35 Whelen did no better than 2 1/2" and the copper fouling was, if anything, worse than in the .338. I spent more time scrubbing the barrel than I did shooting.
I switched to 225 grain Nosler Partitions in the .338 and worked with 250 grain Swift A-Frames and Nosler Partitions in the .35 Whelen.
The .338 Ruger shot several loads into .75" The Remington .35 Whelen shot the Noslers into .8" and the Swift A-Frames into 1". Both .358 bullets shot to the same point at 100 yards. The Remington was lighter, recoiled less, and was close enough to the .338 that I took it and never regretted it.
That was my first and last experience with Barnes bullets. I would suggest you set your old ones aside and, if you are set on using Barnes bullets, buy the current bullets. Personally, I would go with Nosler Partitions or Swift A-Frames.
 

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