Protecting rifle stocks in the safe

[112Savage]

I am about to take receipt of my first “fine rifle” it’s a Dakota 76 with exquisite wood. This is not my first wooden stocked rifle, but my first that has exhibition grade wood that would make me cry if it got safe “rash”.
I know that having a larger safe with lots of space is the best answer but what other methods of protection do you recommend?
I have taken my AR15’s out due to their sharp edges and am putting them in another small safe. I have gunsocks but wonder if they will prevent deep burnishing by other bolt handles.
What works for you guys that have high dollar rifles and shotguns?

 

[JimP]

My save is over stuffed with rifles and shotguns. I just use gunsocks and haven't had any problems of my better stocked rifles.

If the other rifles bolts are a concern to you, remove them and place in a gunsock for a pistol where you can label it as to what rifle it goes into. Also if you do remove the bolts and get them mixed up you can usually look on the bolt where the factory has the last 4 or so of the rifles serial number etched into them.

 

[RTG]

I highly suggest a walk in gun vault. A proper safe-space for your growing collection.

I took the time to fix your rifle. I'll waive my usual gunsmithing fee. You're welcome.

Beautiful wood by the way!

 

[Alistair]

Back in the UK where I was required to store my rifle in a safe, I'd remove all the bolts and gun sock them. So long as you're deliberate when placing and removing the rifles, no harm will comsomething. At least none came to mine over my ownership.

Here in the free world and assuming no concerns around young kids getting access, I'd probably store a fine rifle in its own case under the bed or something and remove the risk entirely.

 

[Berettaco]

I remove all my bolts, use neoprene scope protectors and switched to the rifle rod storage system which maximizes space and helps keep rifles from bumping each other

 

[Berettaco]

Beauty of a rifle too! I have a 330 Dakota - they used to make some great looking rifles

 

[Mark A Ouellette]

I use silicone coated "gun slips".

 

[C.W. Richter]

It's the bolts that do the most damage, but also the inner door frames of the typical sized safes. Place adhesive backed felt of your chosen color (i've even seen 1 side of adhesive-backed velcro used) inside the door frame, wherever you may possibly bang the stock or barrel upon retrieveing and stowing the gun! This protects all guns. I can't imagine you'll be shooting it everyday, so the gun sock is additionally a good idea! Nice. I got one as a result of someone else's "fire sale" when the market began to tank!

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

My plan is to get a proper rifle case for each of my doubles or rifles and then make a gun safe that accommodates the cases standing vertically next to each other, cheek by jowl. No scratching or damage ever and getting ready for the range or a hunt I just take out the case I want, no packing.

 

[C.W. Richter]

The BIG safes are the way to go. 'Just a fraction of the price, for protecting a gun collection.

 

[112Savage]

As a follow up to my question. This rifle has a front sight, barrel swivel, and front sight so changing to a new barrel is not an easy or cheap affair. My friend says to not shoot hot loads in it so I don’t burn out the barrel. Would you avoid powders like RL26, RL17, Ramshot Hunter and others that give high velocities especially considering the typical long barrel life of 30-06.

 

[C.W. Richter]

It's not so much the type of powder you use but the number of rounds you fire through it that tend to wear out the throat and rifling. I've only burned out the rifling of two by using thousands of hot hand loads and with one often in high temperatures which makes matters even worse. How many rounds do you think you will fire through the rifle? If it's way south of 2,000 you should be fine with a high quality stainless barrel. You can cut back on the throat erosion by using less than Max loads but barrel wear occurs every time a slug gets ejected...

 

[C.W. Richter]

I have an accurized Remington 7600 that's had thousands of rounds through the barrel but because it's 18.5 in and the velocity is typically anywhere between 2550 and 2750 depending upon the selected bullets there's still no significant barrel wear and it shoots 10 shots into less than 2 in which is perfect for this relatively short-range deep woods moving targets gun. I wouldn't worry about barrel wear with a 30-06 it's more of an issue with the guns that shoot 3 to 4, 000
feet per second.

 

[C.W. Richter]

Actually three barrels wore out... A stainless steel lilja 264 always shooting above 3,000 ft per second after 2000 rounds it was done. A Steyr 375 cold rolled steel barrel with thousands of rounds through it, and a factory POS rem 700 in 350 rem mag also with north of 1500 rounds through it. That gun was a mess all the way around. The round is interesting just needed much more gun than a lightweight rem.

 

[112Savage]

Some people claim increased barrel wear with certain “high energy” powders like VV5xx and RL26. I have gotten 2920fps with a Winchester model 70 classic, RL26, and Sierra 180SBT. This is a “safe load” according to quickload at 60k-63k psi. I plan on this rifle not being shot as much as my other rifles, so it will not wear like a primary rifle would.

 

[supergrizzly]

I have found that by alternating rifles, one pointed up and the next pointed down, I am able to get more room and it keeps the bolts away. Just a thought. I also picked up an old wood cabinet for the less expensive .22s and such and have it stashed in a hidden location.

 

[Louis Toadvine]

I use silicone coated "gun slips".

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Very interesting. I use the standard silicone coated gun socks made by Allen, et al, but find that most of them (including the large or "magnum" sized ones) are a bit too snug for a full sized rifle with a scope mounted--I end up wrestling the scoped rifle into and out of the sock. These slips appear to be much larger and open, however.

I visited the website for Bachelder but didn't see them listed for sale. Is this a product they make and sell, or is there a third party manufacturer available somewhere out there? I didn't see any from a cursory interwebs search. Thanks in advance.

 

[Mark A Ouellette]

I visited the website for Bachelder but didn't see them listed for sale. Is this a product they make and sell, or is there a third party manufacturer available somewhere out there?

The silicone coated gun slips are sold by a guy in Connecticut. I have their contact info somewhere buried in my files. I will try to dig it out.

Bachelder's would put one on every gun that left their shop. It was not only good gun protection from safe dings, and good marketing, but it also ensured that guns were "cased" for transit, in accordance with Michigan law.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

As a follow up to my question. This rifle has a front sight, barrel swivel, and front sight so changing to a new barrel is not an easy or cheap affair. My friend says to not shoot hot loads in it so I don’t burn out the barrel. Would you avoid powders like RL26, RL17, Ramshot Hunter and others that give high velocities especially considering the typical long barrel life of 30-06.

@112Savage
Shoot it as often as you want, don't make it a safe queen. I would load it to its full potential they way it was designed. You wouldn't drive a Ferrari in first gear so use your rifle as it was designed. Don't abuse your barrel by shooting it when the barrel is hot let it cool between groups/shots. You don't shoot at game with a hot barrel so don't shoot at targets with a hot barrel.
My fast 25 gets hot after 3 shots. I usually fire one shot groups. Get the rifle out, fire one shot out of a COLD clean or dirty barrel. If it is on the money it's fine. It's the first first shot that counts.
Bob

 

[Nevada Mike]

Gun safes are a bit like camping tents. A '10 man' tent will sleep three, maybe four people. Likewise, 30 gun safe will hold thirty guns, but getting a gun out of that pickle jar of a safe subjects it, and the other guns in the safe, to clinks, nicks, and dents. I think it would be better to dedicate a closet, mount gun racks in it, and add a steel security door. This will cost less than most any 'safe', which are about as secure as a tuna can.