Ah reloading. Fun times.
My advice, having started out myself only a couple years ago, would be to keep it simple. First things first, get a manual. Hornady is ok, as is Nosler or Lee. Others are probably fine also, but I've only used these 3 myself, so can't comment. I'd have a read of the manual in the first instance, they shoul have a fairly comprehensive section on the basic process which'll get you an idea of what's what.
Next step, YouTube! Now I do not recommend taking anything on there as gospel, especially not specific load data, but a few channels such as 'Ultimte Reloader' do good introductory series which will talk you through the entire process. I found this much easier to follow and understand than any book instructions. Linky to a video that helped me:
Next, kit. As a newb, unless you're intending to do lots of high volume pistol loading (200 rounds+ / session), I'd advise a single stage press. Just less faff to set up and get going with.
For simplicity again, I'd go for a complete 'kit' to get started. Yes, you'll probably get some stuff you don't actually need, or wish to swap out down the road, but it's a good start, relatively good value and you can always sell or donate surplus things down the road. Lee do one, as does Hornady and RCBS. Any of the three will be absolutely fine. Lee is cheapest, but honestly, it's just better value, not objectively worse for the most part. Hornady or RCBS are a bit nicer to use longer term and look 'pretty', but for general reloading of hunting ammo, I don't think there's much in it. For what it's worth, I went RCBS. What can I say, I'm a kit snob!
In addition to this kit you will need dies, a set of good calipers plus of course components. A powder trickler is also a massive help and saves so much time that'd I'd suggest just picking one up from the start.
For dies, again, RCBS, Lee, Hornady, whatever you like the packaging and the price of really. Not much in it at your (or my) level of expertise. You'll want a full length resizing die, a seating die and a Lee factory crimp die (do get Lee for the crimp die, it's far and away the best solution). Don't get hung up on neck sizing, dedicated decapping dies, bushings or any of that rubbish for now, it'll come later if you're so inclined.
Next, components. I'd suggest that a good starting point for any newb would be to try and replicate what you already use. If you can, just grab the bullet that's in your factory as a good start. Brass can either be 1x fired stuff you already have, or buy some fresh. In theory, if you full length resize, any old brass from mates or the range will also do, but maybe first time round it's not the best starting point. For powder, your book will have a list of options. I'd pick something that you can reliably soure as the no. 1 priority. Sinlge base might be useful to save barrel life and temp stability is also useful. Additionally, if you want to load several cartridges, having 1 powder that'll do double duty across them can be useful. You'll also need primers. I like Federal, but honestly, they're all much the same. Just make sure you get the right size and type!
All that's left then is to get started. The process can be as complicated as you want here really, but it doesn't have to be difficult. The main priority is to ensure repeatability and safety, so read your manual, start the powder charge low down the range (ideally right at the bottom, but bottom third at least, and to start, simply load exactly to the given spec in the book in terms of seating depth etc. Again, if you want you can fiddle later on. The most important lesson here is WRITE EVERYTHING DOWN! It's no good making some great ammo if youve no idea what you did, and actually having a record of this stuff is massively helpful if you want to fine tune later on.
You basically have 2 options for your first go:
1.) make 50x rounds using the book min charge and have a play - it'll give confidence, get you familiar with the kit, and honestly, if the accuracy is good and so is velocity, that might be you done!
2.) Make 50x rounds, 5x bottom charge, 5x bottom charge + 0.5gr, 5x bottom charge + 1.0gr and so on and so forth until you reach the book max value. DO NOT EXCEED THIS, at least not at this stage. Once you're more confident, you may find you have no pressure signs and want to go higher. Up to you, but a first load development is certainly not the time. You'll then want to go to the range, ideally with an experiened buddy, and even more ideally with that rarest of beasts, an experienced buddy with a good chronoscope. Start at the bottom, shooting for groups and chronoing as you go. Watch the velocities and check for pressure signs (the internet can give a guide, but this is really somewhere for the expereinced friend to guide you in, either way, if your velocities start creeping towards the top book values, it's time to pause and consider). Keep working up until you either find the accuracy and velocity you're looking for, or see ANY sign of excess pressure. Again, capture this data and then decide what powder load you're going to run with going forwards. NOTE: if you do go down this route, you'll likely end up with rounds with too much powder in that you need to take apart again. You'll need either a kinetic hammer, or a bullet pulling die. I like the die option, less faff in my mind, but each to their own.
I think that's about it for a starter! Of course, once you've fired these first couple sessions worth of rounds there's a whole world of reloading related excitement (or misery, depending on your philosophy) to get into. Seating depth, neck sizing, bushing dies, neck turning, concentricity guages, degree of crimp, the list goes on, and for the average hunter, it makes bugger all difference! Keeps us happy though, and keeps the reloading suppliers in the black...
All in all, I hope this helps and please let us know how you get on. Reloading can be a great hobby in it's own right, or a bit of a chore, but I can guarantee you'll learn a lot and ultimately making better ammo than factory for less money. Win win!
Al.