SOUTH AFRICA: KWALATA SAFARIS Trip Report

Whit

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Africa
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USA (TX, WY, AR, NC), New Zealand, Germany, Slovakia, South Africa, Austria
DATES: 10-15 April
LOCATION: Limpopo Province, Waterberg Region
OUTFITTER: @KWALATA SAFARIS
PH: @AjFourie
ANIMALS TAKEN: Warthog, blue wildebeest
RIFLE: Bolt-action Howa 1500, .270 Win

PART ONE...

Well folks, this is my long over-due & promised trip report for @KWALATA SAFARIS and @AjFourie , who was my PH. I had an opportunity to duck out of work and jump on a plane to South Africa. This wasn’t difficult as I am stationed in Stuttgart, Germany, and it’s only a 10ish hour flight to J’Burg from Zurich or Frankfurt, and no time zone changes (thank God). The most difficult part was gaining approval from the military to travel to South Africa. A collection of endless paperwork and forms to ensure everyone in Africa Command and the Embassy and etc knew everything… Well, first this hunt was last-minute – booked a week before arrival, not even a full seven days before, really – and was only able to hunt for four days for culls, or so, as the other six days of leave were already planned out with safaris of other kinds. As some of you all may have seen, I posted what I was looking for, and after a series of conversations with a number of fine and reputable outfitters, I settled on Kwalata Safaris. I wanted to hunt in the Limpopo region, and I’d seen Jaco post before, and had liked how he had communicated and his style. Hard to tell exactly who someone is from the internet, that’s true, but my instincts are very sharp, and the gut said, ‘go with him’. Jaco offered a great deal – the observer rate – and since I was coming at last second’s notice, he offered his personal rifle and all the ammo needed, plus a chance to go hunt the new 70,000 acre property (huge plus, wanted to be away from it all as much as possible). Plus, I needed to be able to leave at a moment’s notice if so required, and he was willing to work with me on this, which was incredibly important to me & a full-stop dealbreaker if he said ‘no’. (Did not end up needing to leave, but I appreciated our discussion up front and felt his terms were fair). Jaco could only offer warthogs, impalas and blue wildebeests for culls, but this was perfect – my goal was to be in the rugged, remote African bush, with a rifle in my hand - A dream come true! The memories and the chase are always the most important aspect of any hunt, not the size/quality/type of trophy.

Given the short turn before the trip, I packed up quickly, and managed to find a second pair of Kuhl hiking pants and most importantly, a Kuhl outdoors shirt in a khaki color at the base PX the day before departure, the last one available. A couple of knives, my reliable lightweight Danner hot weather combat boots, two pairs of hiking pants, ranger panties, Darn Tough socks, and my old Swazi pullover from the New Zealand thru-hike, an outfit for non-hunting days, and I was set. (I thew in an old military smoker’s jacket made of polyester, top/bottom wool underwear, and a neck gaiter/beanie for the cold mornings and nights, but really didn’t need it). Everything I needed for the ten days fit into two backpacks, one military issue and one old Sandpiper of California black backpack I’ve had for the better part of a decade, and hauled all over America and Europe.

Day 1: Traveling to Africa

Donning my international travel standard hoodie, Sony noise-cancelling headphones, and compression socks, I took the S-Bahn to Stuttgart Flughafen and boarded the 45 minute flight to Zurich, and then to Johannesburg without issue. I had splurged and bid 200 euro (the lowest amount possible) for upgraded economy plus, and wouldn’t you know, the bid was accepted. Swiss Air’s economy plus was very comfortable, and allowed me to sleep relatively well, for which I was thankful. Staring out the window to see the African continent again at 30,000 feet below was incredible – I couldn’t wait to land and kept asking myself why I hadn’t previously hunted in Africa! Upon arrival, I immediately wrote a couple of expat Afrikaaner friends how amazing the country was, and how happy I was to be there, and they knew why. Clearing customs was very easy, the lady flipped through my passport and stamped in the standard 90 day tourist visa, and I was off to grab my backpack from the luggage carousel. AJ was waiting on me, and he looked just how I envisioned an African hunting guide – lean, whip thin, sunburnt, in the classic khaki and shorts. He bought me a cup of coffee, and after some struggles with the ticket machine at JNB, and loading of my backpacks into his Land Cruiser, we were off. AJ was quite an interesting guy and a good conversationalist, especially as I was quite tired and tend to enjoy staring out the window at the scenery. The weather was perfect, and South Africa felt like paradise! I was very quickly in love. It was a long drive (four ish hours) to the camp, but I enjoyed taking in the views, and observing the rolling hills of the Limpopo region and the Africans alongside the road. The Sandriver mountain range was very visible, a stunning sight. We stopped off at a local town for beer and paperwork, and a hamburger lunch at a café. I bought another hunting shirt from the town outfitter (South Africa is not expensive – love it!) and met Jaco’s dad, a friendly chap with many stories. Another 45 some minutes brought us to the property, and after we signed in, it was down the road to the guesthouse. On the way there, we started to count species, and the number grew quickly (we ended at around 17?). Crossing a creek, I saw rhinos in the bush, and I think AJ and the trackers got quite a laugh out of an American pointing and gaping and saying ‘Wow, that’s a rhino! I can’t believe that’s a rhino. What do you mean, there’s THREE rhinos? This is like a zoo, come to life! You get to see this EVERY DAY?! You get PAID to do this?!’ Man – I haven’t felt like a kid in a long, long time, the wide-eyed wonder at the glory of the Lord’s incredible creation.

It was late afternoon when we arrived at the luxurious hunting lodge. I was the only guest the first three days – mid April is early in the hunting season, apparently – and basically had the place to myself. I think I was the first, maybe the second client to have a rifle in hand on that place in 20 years? (No doubt @AjFourie e had shot a something previously… lol).

The cabins were stone and thatch, and very, very nice. There was a massive deck, a big firepit, comfortable couches, a conference hall, and a very attractive pool. One could have been happy relaxing in the compound for a few days! Dinner, cooked by a distant relative of AJ’s, Tante Louise, would not be ready for several hours, so I unpacked quickly, and enjoyed watching the zebras, wildebeests, impalas gather at the local borehole. The place was beautiful, birds, monkeys, all over. Stunning. After AJ organized logistics for the next day, we went for a drive and checked out part of the property. He took up on the escarpment and to a scenic overlook, where we watched the sun set over the Limpopo mountains with a cold Castle beer. The South African sunset was magnificent, and the stars came out… stunning. Worth the price of admission right then and there. We drove back to the lodge, and ate - dinner was very delicious, and almost too nice for someone who grew up near/on a working cattle operation. Tante Louise is a great cook, very tasty dishes. AJ and I had a drink, and off we went to bed.

Day 2: Exploring

Next morning came early, and after breakfast, we grabbed a cold thermos of rooibos tea, I borrowed a brimmed hat, and we headed off to the shooting range. Jaco’s Howa 1500 in .270 Winchester was dead on at 100 yards, and AJ gave thumbs up to the lessons I learned well on a cold and wet range in Quantico, VA. On the way, the trackers spotted fresh leopard tracks, and then we crossed a group of Cape buffalo, and boom – 2 of the Big 5 were crossed off the list. The rest of the morning and afternoon, AJ and the trackers – Jacky Boy and the senior tracker, his name escapes me, but I am sure AJ can remind me – and I toured around in his Land Cruiser. For a moment, I didn’t care about shooting anything – the adventure of ‘what’s around the corner?’ was just too exciting. We saw a herd of elephants crossing the road, and my goodness, it’s incredible how a two-ton plus animal can stay so quiet. Placing my boot in comparison to their massive tracks is… awe inspiring. Zebra, wildebeest, kudu all over the place (and at least three 50+ inch bulls, the rut came early this year), a croc, eland, nyala, baboon, klipspringer, all kinds of animals… we kept counting! I was very content to just drive and explore. We saw one or two really fine animals, and AJ offered a discount if I wanted a trophy on the extensive animal list, but I declined the opportunity – hunting on a budget. Later that day, we checked out another property for a cull wildebeest and impala. Dismounting from the truck with a rifle in hand, and AJ’s bolt-action Musgrave in .458 Lott drove home the point we were in dangerous country – life wasn’t safe and coddled like it is in Germany. (It’s been a few years since I’ve been in a hostile environment, and it felt good to be closer to the edge again). There was a herd of wildebeest wandering around, and we moved closer on foot, and made a good stalk, but the wind kept shifting and despite our low-crawls and skulking around, the wildebeest busted us and took off. We kept trying, but to no success – they were on to us. That’s hunting though, and still, I was really happy to be carrying in a rifle in Africa! I soaked up every single moment. Before I knew it, the day was over, and after a cold beer watching the sun go down (such a great tradition), we drove the 45 minutes back to the lodge. We concluded with another delicious meal, and a couple of rum and coke’s around the firepit, staring at the stars and talking about life. AJ and I are almost the same age, and had a number of things in common, which was really good. He's done many interesting things on the safari hunting field, and has had a number of interesting – good and bad – clients and situations. I enjoyed his stories, and I think he enjoyed hearing about my deployments to Europe.

Enjoy this - part two (and hopefully some photos) will come on Monday or Tuesday.
 
Last edited:
PART TWO
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Day 3: Beauty & A Warthog

Off to tour & hunt again – the adventure continued. After a quick breakfast and more cold rooibos tea, the morning continued, and we drove around, looking for warthogs, impalas and blue wildebeests. I confess, by this point, I was growing rather impatient and wanted to shoot something, but this was counterbalanced by the fun of being in the South African bush. The weather continued to hold – beautiful, clear, with a few clouds in the sky, hot, but not too hot. AJ showed me the property’s special “observation” area, fenced off to keep out the dangerous game and elephants. The property has an old stone viewing area, overlooking the Mokolo River and the mountains, a stunning view. Game wandered on the slopes of the hills on the far side, and the wind whistled through the rocks. We lingered for thirty minutes, drinking in the raw beauty of the place. AJ joked one couldn’t be too careful: if you bring your girlfriend, you might come back with one more…! Very romantic, without a doubt, a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. I kept telling the team how I couldn’t believe they got paid to do this for a living. They just smiled and laughed, and nodded ‘yes’. After crossing the river in a sunken stone bridge, we worked down alongside the river towards the lodge under construction and saw a hippo and mountain reedbuck. You just never know what to expect in the South African bush! After lunch at the lodge, we went back out to hunt in earnest. We started checking a number of watering holes, and after a safari-style lunch under a tree in the bush, we had a failed stalk for wildebeest – the wind kept busting us. So we kept checking water holes and as memory serves, at the second one, AJ spotted a group of warthogs and a few other animals lazing in the afternoon heat. He glassed the group over, and spotted a very nice warthog in the mix – an older animal a year or two away from a natural death, but with good character and quality tusks – just the type of trophy I wanted. We moved slowly from the truck to a good shooting position, and AJ set up the sticks. He whispered just where to aim, and I took a deep breath, placed the crosshairs on the shoulder of the pig, and slowly squeezed a shot off. The rifle slammed into my shoulder, and I knew I’d made a great shot. The animals scattered into the scrub bush and the warthog squealed, lurched forward a dozen yards, and dropped in his tracks. AJ grinned, slapped me on the shoulder, and yelled “Man, I know you don’t really curse, but I got to say, you can mother******* shoot!” I figured that’s about the second highest compliment a professional hunting guide can bestow and said “thank you, I appreciate that!”. I’ve only ever qualified as a rifle expert, but that compliment is one I will remember, so thanks again, AJ. The trackers were very pleased, too and agreed it was a great shot – no chasing the animal in the dense bush! I was thankful the animal didn’t suffer or linger. AJ took a few photos of me with the old boy and re-stated how pleased he was with this warthog. He measured about nine inches or so, and was a very respectable trophy. I was quite pleased, too. AJ had a cold beer to celebrate, and as we were going to hunt a while yet that day, I took the tiniest of tastes – it’s an ironclad rule – alcohol and loaded firearms never mix. The team loaded him up into the truck, and we continued our way, looking for impala and wildebeest culls. Nothing that fit the bill showed, but we saw plenty of other game and when evening came, we were back at the lodge for yet another delicious dinner in the little Bomba area, with a firepit, and a table set for two. AJ said he was going to take me out for a romantic evening – I thought he was kidding, he wasn’t. Still, it was a really cool way to eat dinner, although it still felt like a bit too much for this rural Southern boy. Overall – another great day hunting in Africa! The stars were incredible, especially when the rolling blackouts hit, and the generator was off. The dead quiet of an African night… the raw beauty… I could easily live there. Maybe I need to change careers, or move there as soon as I retire…
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Rhino.jpg


Day 4 – Last Hunting Day – Overnight with a Lion? ‘I Wish You Couldn’t Shoot…’

The last full day came all too soon. Admittedly, four days is not very long, but man – I was enjoying every last moment of this safari. Another breakfast of cheese, granola, yogurt and bacon and juice, the standard thermos of cold rooibos tea in hand (if you have not tried this delicious local tea, next time, ask your hosts for rooibos. I picked up the habits years ago trekking across New Zealand’s South Island, and have been hooked ever since). Off we went. My favorite part of the day was the cool of the morning. Giraffes, and all kinds of other plains game were in abundance, and we worked back over some areas near the river lodge that we had crossed on Day One and Two.

That morning, I had told AJ and the trackers I hoped to see a lion, and as we drove around, I offered up a quiet prayer, asking the Lord to bring a lion. Lo and behold – the tracker – George, I believe – yelled at AJ to stop, and said “lion, lion”. I was super grateful for his sharp eyes… the abilities of the trackers in the bush are just so impressive. You’ve got to see it to believe it. But no way – there was a lioness resting contentedly under a bush some 30 yards away. Those big feline eyes just stared back at us, no fear, no intimidation. AJ said she had likely just eaten, and was not interested in us. I looked at the guys for what was probably the dozenth time, and said ‘You guys get PAID to do this job… you lucky son of guns… wow… this is INCREDIBLE!’. Well, we watched her for ten minutes, and drove down the road. Five minutes later, we crossed into an open field, and there was a dead wildebeest cow just off the road, with torn up ground and a snarl of tracks. Clearly, the lioness had killed the cow only twenty minutes ago. Death in the African bush. It was truly a special moment to stumble upon the fresh kill of a lion – not everyone has a chance to see this on their first safari, or any safari, for that matter. We inspected the carcass, turned around and headed back for lunch – only for the trackers to spot a second lioness very close to the first lioness. Wow. I was really grateful – what a moment, and an answer to prayer. Just before we returned for lunch, we spotted an impala and considered it for a moment, but AJ thought we could do better, so we moved on. (Truth be told – my instincts said this was a good opportunity but I decided to hold out for a monster cull). After lunch, I was beginning to be a bit worried – certainly wanted a second animal, and felt kind of anxious. AJ re-assured me we would find a something, even though time was running short. We saw a lot of animals, but not until we moved towards the river did we see an impala who would be a good cull – old, character, good sized, and not perfectly symmetrical. We put on a good stalk, but he was wary, and despite our best efforts, the impala outsmarted us, and worked his way through the bush like a ghost. He didn’t become old by being stupid, that’s for sure and he survived another day. We glassed a number of groupings of impalas, but after him, only stumbled across groups of females, young males, or trophy animals – nothing quite cull worthy. I was bummed, but that’s hunting. As the saying goes – a bad day hunting is better than a good day in the office.

Well, I had about given up hope, but as we closed in returning to the lodge, AJ spotted a group of wildebeests and inquired if I wanted to take one. Yes! Of course I did! We jumped off the truck, worked alongside the road in the bush, keeping quiet and low, and we found a good spot to shoot, about 80 yards distant. AJ drew a diagram in the dirt, and instructed me where to aim – low against the shoulder, not high. He set the sticks up, and told me to shoot. I aimed, squeezed off a shot, and felt very darn good about it. The whump of the bullet against the wildebeest told us it was a hit – and we tried for a second shot, but just as I was ready, the group of four or five bolted into the bush, and kept moving away. I realized I had hit exactly where I had aimed, as usual, but in my desire to make sure I didn’t aim in the same place I’d shoot at a whitetail, I had hit him probably three to four inches low. Dang it! Well, there was quite a bit of blood at the site of the shot, so I had hit him. He was visible in the distance, but it wasn’t immediately clear which animal it was, and in April, the scrub bush of fall had not yet died and cleared out, so visibility and shooting lanes were naturally restricted. AJ and I and Jacky Boy worked our way towards the group of wildebeests, but each time we started to move into range, being wary and spooked, the wildebeests ran another 100 yards away. This went one for some time, and finally, the wildebeests spooked once more and ducked into very thick brush. Freak, I was starting to get worried… hate seeing the animals suffer and hate having to spend time & energy following up. We kept tracking, but eventually, the crew started to lose the trail – the blood trail seemed to dry up. So the senior tracker was called – and wow, was he good (from Zimbabwe… makes sense). He picked up the trail, and we eventually broke cover over a dirt road. Here, we paused and halted, and AJ & the tracker ducked ahead for about five minutes.

All of a sudden – the wildebeest broke cover and tore down the road, running away from us. AJ set up the sticks, and yelled “There he is! Shoot, shoot!” I aligned the scope on the front shoulder, quartering away, and squeezed off a round. The flick of dust on the animal’s front shoulder was obvious to AJ watching in his binos, and he slapped me on the shoulder, and yelled “You anchored him, good shooting!” Felt good to see the Corps’ snap shooting lessons pay off. AJ & the trackers conferred in a mixture of Afrikaans and the local dialect. After the chat, AJ handed me his DG Musgrave in .458 Lott, the shooting sticks and told me to stay put. Well, I found a rock and sat down and mentally reviewed the day and the trip. Time went on. Ten minutes, fifteen minutes, twenty five… at the thirty minute mark, the sun was slowly beginning to set in the African sky. I was beginning to wonder if I was going to re-live the scene in the opening episodes of Yellowstone 1923: treed overnight, with only a rifle to defend myself against prowling lions. None of the nearby trees looked adequate… at the forty minute (or so) mark, AJ and the team showed back up. He looked at me, threw an arm around my shoulder, and said “Ben, you and I have something in common. We’ve both shot a wildebeest today.” Apparently – both animals had bedded together and AJ’s snap judgment call had proved faulty. My wildebeest had ducked into thicker brush. AJ said “Man, I wish you couldn’t shoot…” and for the sake of his wallet, I agreed – but the legend of the Corps’ shooting prowess was partially retrieved. As the day was running late, our tracking efforts just ran out of daylight. We did watch a herd of zebras and impalas in a massive field as the sun went down – the wildlife on the Kwalata Safaris reserve was still incredible – but the celebratory last-day beer was not maybe as rewarding as it might have been. Still – end of the day – my shot placement was just four inches low and that light .270 wasn’t enough gun to compensate for my low shot placement. And kudos to AJ – he handled the situation like a pro, quickly took responsibility, assured me he would be responsible for payment, and apologized for the error. I appreciated his maturity but assured him I enjoyed shooting again, haha.

End of the day was another memorable experience. There were two father/sons in from Poland that last night, another Kwalata guide and Jaco. The evening drinks and dinner around the boma were quite interesting. All too early the next morning we were up and off for JNB, where I was to fly to Port Elizabeth for another type of safari altogether…

Overall: hunting with Kwalata Safaris was a great experience. If anything – it was almost too nice, and I almost felt uncomfortable with just how first class everything was! The staff really catered to your needs & wishes and really created a very memorable experience. Jaco was very down to earth, straightforward and I enjoyed meeting him in person. AJ was a good guide (have hunted with several) and we agreed we’d hunt with the other again. The trackers
were great, and laid back and I enjoyed hearing their stories. I would hunt with these guys again – the goal being Mozambique for a buffalo on foot. I’d give their operation a double thumbs up and a solid recommendation to anyone who asks.



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I absolutely cannot wait to go back.
 
Thanks for the report.
 
Congrats on your hunt, and thanks for sharing !
 
Congratulations on a nice hunt! It’s a beautiful place…the Waterberg.
 

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