Be careful who mounts your scopes

[Daisy]

I enjoy mounting them myself. Knowing that no one will take the time and care that I do.

IE removing all oil from mount and ring threads, adjusting torque values for lubricant (purple locktite) torque specs are normally given for dry threads.

The most useful is the scope ring alignment bars. If the ring doesn’t slide easily from one bar to the next while tightened in each ring separately. Then there is an alignment issue and you are getting uneven pressure on the tube. Which causes most scopes “ going bad”. View attachment 675057

I have that exact same setup.

This thread on another site is a really good stepwise procedure for scope mounting.

After multiple requests for an explanation of how to mount a scope in order to have the lowest possibility of loss of zero, a discussion of a scope mounting video, and the latest thread about scope bases and action screw coming loose, I took some pics of what I do with a rifle when I get it and...
https://**NOT**PERMITTED**.com/forums/threads/scope-mounting-to-maintain-zero.78482/

Edit: Alas it won’t let me post link to another site.

 

[Daisy]

The gist is degrease everything with acetone. Use blue loxtite. Then dab nail polish or paint pen on top for extra security and as a visual hash mark.

 

[BeeMaa]

This is a product using in the cycling world to hold parts together without having to stress the fasteners. Especially important when the screws are going into or clamping onto carbon fiber. This could also be used between the scope and rings. Safe for steel, alloys, carbon fiber and titanium. Can be dissolved with mineral spirits or acetone.

Personally, I'd be looking for a rail scope if the recoil is getting this serious.

 

[Daisy]

This is a product using in the cycling world to hold parts together without having to stress the fasteners. Especially important when the screws are going into or clamping onto carbon fiber. This could also be used between the scope and rings. Safe for steel, alloys, carbon fiber and titanium. Can be dissolved with mineral spirits or acetone.

Personally, I'd be looking for a rail scope if the recoil is getting this serious.
View attachment 676013

You use any railed scopes Bee?

 

[BeeMaa]

You use any railed scopes Bee?

All my centerfire rifles are using Swaro Z8i rail scopes in contessa QR mounts with blue Loctite on the threads holding the mount to the scope.

 

[Daisy]

All my centerfire rifles are using Swaro Z8i rail scopes in contessa QR mounts with blue Loctite on the threads holding the mount to the scope.
View attachment 676050

By far the most elegant setup I think.

 

[BeeMaa]

I've been considering switching to INNOMOUNT for the future, but it's unlikely I'll ever need to replace the Contessa mounts I have. Plus the added trouble of having to re-zero everything.

 

[Daisy]

I've been considering switching to INNOMOUNT for the future, but it's unlikely I'll ever need to replace the Contessa mounts I have. Plus the added trouble of having to re-zero everything.

That would be a pain. But If you ever get another barrel consider the Innomount zero. It’s an upgrade.

 

[BeeMaa]

This is a product used to show if something has moved. We use it at work as an anti-tamper or tell-tale to see if linkage has moved, bolts were loosened or something adjusted without our knowledge. If they are all intact, we know it's good to go. A little dab where the scope meets the rings and another where the rings meet the action would be a good indicator of something moving.

 

[dogcat1]

I use only Talley's. When I order, I ALWAYS call them and ask for a req as well as detailed instructions. They are extremely helpful.

 

[hoytcanon]

I can't believe how many people need a gunsmith or sophisticated mounting tools to mount a scope on a rifle. A screwdriver, hex key and a pair of eyes will get it done in five minutes or less...

 

[BeeMaa]

I use only Talley's. When I order, I ALWAYS call them and ask for a req as well as detailed instructions. They are extremely helpful.

Regardless of brand, I've been amazed at how little contact the scope makes with the rings. Lapping just a little bit will reveal the truth. When doing this, I always match-mark the top halves to the bottom and mark which is front/back so everything stays uniform for best results.

I can't believe how many people need a gunsmith or sophisticated mounting tools to mount a scope on a rifle. A screwdriver, hex key and a pair of eyes will get it done in five minutes or less...

I suppose everyone has their own standards as to what is acceptable. This would never fly for one of my rifles.

Not that I don't believe you, but I'd like to see a five minute (or less) video of this being done from start to finish with all new parts that have not been assembled before.

 

[deewayne2003]

Many say not to use locktite. I’ve never had an issue with purple locktite.
But the torque values must be converted from dry to lubricated

I am one of those anti locktite people, never had to use it.

The key is to use a bristled pipe cleaner and lighter fluid/rubbing alcohol to degrease and clean the holes in the receiver, it's amazing how much crap comes out of the threads of brand new rifles after you remove the tiny cap screws.

As for red locktite, if you need to remove screws that have been glued in with the red stuff......

Take a cheap allen wrench with the appropriate head for the screw and lock it into a set of vise grips, heat the tip of the allen wrench to red hot with a torch and then place the red hot tip into the screw head and let the heat transfer liquify the locktite and immediately use a high quality screw driver to back the screw out.

As stated by others, if I mount my own scope I know it's done right and it only takes a few simple tools.

I also do not understand having someone else sight in your rifle for you.....