.375 close range polar bear bullet?

[Mekaniks]

I don't envy you at all... 30-50 yards at a charging polar bear? I have never had to stop a polar bear charge, but have some limited experience with them and have seen them in action. It may as well be at 12 yards or less as fast as those things cover ground. It's really to bad you can't just use a slug gun and heavy buckshot. That said, TSX, NP, SAF all will work in my opinion. Just get the heaviest one you can, and don't bother with a scope on your rifle

 

[Eddie P]

I've already decided to use open sights. Nothing to fail etc.

To be honest I don't imagine I'll ever have to use it in anger, but if I do I don't want to be under gunned and turn a hungry bear into a psycho.

There are some documentaries on YouTube and the running theme is too little too late. The law means it's always a bit late, but at least with a 375 it won't be too little.

 

[Pheroze]

Does anyone know whether a round nose bullet would make a difference on the bear in these circumstances?

 

[RolandtheHeadless]

How about a Marlin lever-action in .45-70, throwing a 400-grain bullet?

 

[Eddie P]

The calibre choice is made already, but no harm in discussing future options for others to learn from.

 

[Royal27]

You really don't need a solid for a bear. In fact, you probably don't want one for bear defense.

So long as you don't pick a totally ridiculous projectile, the deciding factor will be your ability to stay cool and hit the target. Looks like there are several good choices available. I'd follow Gillette hunter's advice and live happily ever after.

This!

I wouldn't want the best solid in the world with a bear running straight at me. I want shock power more than straight line end to end penetration. And more importantly, I want to hit him square in the brain. A quality premium soft is what I'd want.

To me solid through the chest at close range leaves too much chnace of someone finding a dead bear, with a dead me underneath it.

Even on buffalo the soft as a "backup" isn't to stop the face on charge. It is to get though the rumen and to the vitals when that bull is running away.

 

[Eddie P]

I know all you dangerous game hunters love the idea of a charge (to be honest so do I).

But I don't expect a charge, I imagine a bear that won't back off. I think that their way of hunting is to pounce last minute as opposed to a mad charge.

They are top of the food chain and know that they can bring down everything in their territory. When they hunt seals etc they work out the best way for the final strike. Their is no cover to stalk from in most of the area.

The most worrying thing about the ice bear is their intelligence on top of their size and power.

So the bullet must hit hard to stop a charge starting. If not dead then a charge will happen.

I'm not sure about head shots, I'd be planning on a centre of mass chest shot, but I guess it depends on holding my nerve if one turns up when I'm not expecting it. I'll get some practice for head shots as an option.

Anyone want to make a polar bear target for this site?

 

[Royal27]

^^^^

Charge or a bear that won't back off I still want a premium "soft" as I want to stop that bear in its tracks.

Out of curiosity, what's the law for you when it comes to shooting a polar bear for being aggressive?

Can you legally shoot one at 50 yards for aggression ? Doesn't sound like imminent danger at that point? I'm no bear expert though.

For a head shot I was honestly thinking much much closer and a truly life threatening situation.

 

[Pheroze]

There were a couple of guys skiing or something like that across the pole. It is in a National Geographic I read. If I recall correctly, they spotted the bear just as they were going to turn in for the night. They shot it but I think they discovered it had been following their trail for days. Scary stuff.

 

[JimP]

That is where a pump action 12 ga shotgun loaded with slugs would come in handy. 5 rounds just as fast as you can work the action into a bear is going to put him down. Where as even with a .375 HH and a soft point bullet you might get 2 shots off if you are lucky and hope that he goes down before he is chewing on you.

In most areas that I know of the bear would have to be quite close before you can legally pull the trigger on them and 50 yards is too far away for that.
I would find out just what range the bear has to be from you before you can consider him a threat enough to take him down.

 

[Mekaniks]

To a polar bear everything is lunch. They are extremely patient, and don't eat often, but when they get the chance they are not picky and there is usually no messing around. Everything they do is driven by getting their next meal. The key is to make sure they understand that you are not it.

 

[Eddie P]

From my understanding in Svalbard, it's similar to the USA and shooting people. You need to be able to justify it. If you've fired flares and warning shots and it's not backing away then how close do you let them get?

I've got 4 friends who have been hunted by polar bears, their stories are scary, on each occasion the bears were very subtle and it was only later in the encounter that they realised that they were potantially dinner. Apart from one who was woken up by a bear tearing windows out, that was less subtle.

The published guides say at 35 yards open fire. So around that distance. Which gives you very little time to react as it changes from an approach to trying to kill.

As I said, I don't expect a charge, but want to stop one developing.

 

[700xcr]

Here is another bullet that will work. Cutting Edge Safari Bullets.
https://cuttingedgebullets.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=DGBR-HP_L03_BBW_13
I now of a Fellow hunter called Dog Man used the cutting Edge Safari Bullet on a large black bear in his 458win.

 

[Alexandro Faria]

Hopefully this will be of some help:

I assume, based on various factors, that you would require a similar combination for hunting big cats in thick bush. As @Royal27 said, no solids. You don't need to drill through a thick skull or femur to get to vitals. Perhaps your best bet would be, as stated, a good premium softie that, with a little more velocity, will give you a good mix between shock and penetration. Depending on your stance, perhaps a good mono would also be an option? We have some pretty tough critters this side of the pond and I know quite a few PH's that swear by these producers: here are 2 south african companies that make some truly amazing bullets:
http://sapremiumbullets.yolasite.com
http://www.peregrinebullets.co.za

Best of luck, hope you come right!

 

[Eddie P]

Hopefully this will be of some help:

I assume, based on various factors, that you would require a similar combination for hunting big cats in thick bush. As @Royal27 said, no solids. You don't need to drill through a thick skull or femur to get to vitals. Perhaps your best bet would be, as stated, a good premium softie that, with a little more velocity, will give you a good mix between shock and penetration. Depending on your stance, perhaps a good mono would also be an option? We have some pretty tough critters this side of the pond and I know quite a few PH's that swear by these producers: here are 2 south african companies that make some truly amazing bullets:
http://sapremiumbullets.yolasite.com
http://www.peregrinebullets.co.za

Best of luck, hope you come right!

Thanks.

I'm really enjoying this discussion. I figured big cats would be fairly similar which is why I joined here.

 

[CTDolan]

Swift A-frame or Nosler Partition

There's nothing better than the above. As for which, take your pick.

 

[Eddie P]

I'm happy to see that there is a common theme of NP which is available in the UK.

I'll look at some of the others, but at least I have a decent option that follows your advice.

 

[CTDolan]

You'll love the Guide Gun. I picked one up a month or so ago. It's met my every expectation.

 

[PeteG]

If the purpose of this is just for stopping a potential charge and the range is short, i would consider the heaviest grain available.
I have a preference towards heavy for caliber bullets and the 350gr woodleigh for your 375 would be perfect for your purpose.

At the end of the day, as almost everyone here has said, you will not go wrong if its a sturdy well made 300gr NP or AFrame.

 

[Ray B]

My first choice for that situation would be a 300 grain Bitterroot, but you probably won't find any for sale, so my second choice would be the Swift A-Frame, followed by the Nosler Partition.