Blaser R8 for Dangerous Game

I have yes

I’ve never been able to top load .223 or 6.5 x55

After the video posted just now I tried the 404 and gave it ‘a bit more wellie’
I could do it - just - but I’d not be confident reloading that way under pressure

Top loading a Mauser 98, for example, is pretty much effortless

perhaps the insert loosens up with a few repetitions?
 
I have yes

I’ve never been able to top load .223 or 6.5 x55

After the video posted just now I tried the 404 and gave it ‘a bit more wellie’
I could do it - just - but I’d not be confident reloading that way under pressure

Top loading a Mauser 98, for example, is pretty much effortless

perhaps the insert loosens up with a few repetitions?
It may. Honestly I don’t know. I don’t own one. Yet
 
I have yes

I’ve never been able to top load .223 or 6.5 x55

After the video posted just now I tried the 404 and gave it ‘a bit more wellie’
I could do it - just - but I’d not be confident reloading that way under pressure

Top loading a Mauser 98, for example, is pretty much effortless

perhaps the insert loosens up with a few repetitions?
It doesn't require a lot of force. The rifle in the video is a 458 Win Mag, with a new magazine insert. So, the geometry of the 404/ultra mag magazine should be very similar in regards to the force it takes to load it.
If I were you, I'd try to master top loading. As you know, that's a far superior way of topping off your rifle when hunting. Having to totally remove the magazine to load it will take far longer, and will require you to take your eyes off the animal in front of you. That's my opinion anyway.
 
I shall persevere
I will admit that the first time I did it, I was apprehensive. It's not a like a CRF Mauser...of course nothing about the Blaser R8 is like a CRF Mauser aside from the fact that they both shoot bullets. After top loading the R8 a few times it becomes normal.
 
My R8’s 9.3x62 and .300 Wby are easy to load from the top. The .270 insert seems to have a little tighter tolerances and is a little tougher to align the round before pushing down.
For the cocking and decocking, I didn’t have an issue cocking the rifle, but decocking had a bit of a learning curve. @Toby458’s video gives a good demonstration of the cocking and decocking. However, for decocking, I found an alternative method where I use the side of my thumb. With either method, pushing slightly forward and then depressing while allowing the cocker to release does take some getting used to.
 
I have yes

I’ve never been able to top load .223 or 6.5 x55

After the video posted just now I tried the 404 and gave it ‘a bit more wellie’
I could do it - just - but I’d not be confident reloading that way under pressure

Top loading a Mauser 98, for example, is pretty much effortless

perhaps the insert loosens up with a few repetitions?

Yes, mine did get easier to top load with use. Just keep doing it!
 
More Blaser specific buttpad and stock spacer info for those who may need it.

I added an adjustable stock to my rifle. When I went to install the butt pad and spacer kit (p/n C39878) with it, the top bolt bottomed out. The bottom bolt was fine, but the addition of the adjustable comb robbed some space from the top.
1729199189199.png

First a few specs. The bolts takes a 3mm Allen key to remove and are threaded M5x0.8. Before cutting the bolt to length, I put a M5x0.8 die on the bolt and ran it all the way to the head. This way I could clean the threads after cutting to length. I took my time and ended up taking off 17mm before I was happy with the fit. I'm only using two of the three spacer in the kit, but I believe that even if all three spacers were used cutting the bolt down would be necessary for proper fit.
1729199225335.png

I understand that everyone doesn't have metric tap and die sets laying around but if you run into this, at least you will know what direction to go.
 
More Blaser specific buttpad and stock spacer info for those who may need it.

I added an adjustable stock to my rifle. When I went to install the butt pad and spacer kit (p/n C39878) with it, the top bolt bottomed out. The bottom bolt was fine, but the addition of the adjustable comb robbed some space from the top.
View attachment 641028
First a few specs. The bolts takes a 3mm Allen key to remove and are threaded M5x0.8. Before cutting the bolt to length, I put a M5x0.8 die on the bolt and ran it all the way to the head. This way I could clean the threads after cutting to length. I took my time and ended up taking off 17mm before I was happy with the fit. I'm only using two of the three spacer in the kit, but I believe that even if all three spacers were used cutting the bolt down would be necessary for proper fit.
View attachment 641029
I understand that everyone doesn't have metric tap and die sets laying around but if you run into this, at least you will know what direction to go.

That really is pathetic on the part of Blaser, esp for a rifle that costs so much. It would cost them *F* all to put in a correct length screw for each spacer.
 
That really is pathetic on the part of Blaser, esp for a rifle that costs so much. It would cost them *F* all to put in a correct length screw for each spacer.
I do understand your point.

However, there are plenty of semi-custom rifles (Dakota, AHR-CZ's, Cooper, Jarrett...etc) out there in the $5K to $10K range that need some minor tweaking by the hunter. In the grand scheme of things, cutting and tapping a bolt is pretty low on the list.
 
I do understand your point.

However, there are plenty of semi-custom rifles (Dakota, AHR-CZ's, Cooper, Jarrett...etc) out there in the $5K to $10K range that need some minor tweaking by the hunter. In the grand scheme of things, cutting and tapping a bolt is pretty low on the list.
I must be getting grumpy or just less tolerant of short cuts manufacturers take. In your shoes I would have been taking the rifle and all back and asking for a refund and let them know why. A few people doing that and those short cuts, prick of embugerances stop.

If people did this we might start getting the full quality that we are paying for.
 
I am with BeeMaa on this one, although maybe from a perspective that merges with Rule 303's feeling.

If it is a no brainer, and if I consider that the end result is worth it, which is the case for the Blaser R8, I fix it myself. But I do it just to avoid the added frustration of having to deal with the return calls or emails, the discussion, the inevitable arguing / denying / rationalizing / minimizing from the customer service rep, then the packing, the shipping, the waiting, etc. etc.

Life is just too short...

And I just quietly shake my head at the company/people who did not think well enough or did not execute well enough.


PS: admittedly, this perspective enables, some would even say validates, bad corporate behavior (e.g. in this case poor packaging quality control) but I am getting too old and too tired to charge each and every windmill...
 
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My two cents worth.
Weight is not an issue, you can adjust weight up or down with barrel profile, and the two different tungsten stock inserts, without purchasing a steel reciever. A semi weight barrel and 430/370 gram insert usually balances well.

Second point is you get really really familiar to using one gun. Same stock, same trigger, same decocker. This is extremely important.
I use a 22 rimfire barrel sometimes in my PH 500 Jeffery stock.

I have used a R93 then R8 for probably over 20 years in all sort of crap conditions, including dropping it twice. I remember once in the early 2000’s getting caught in a disgusting red dust storm in Queensland. Some Queenslanders on this forum will know the dust storm I am talking about. Visibility was completely lost in the field. I had red dust in every orifice in my body! But I was surprised when I opened the action back at camp it was clean. I always put tape over the muzzle, but even so that R8 action seals pretty well.
I
 
I must be getting grumpy or just less tolerant of short cuts manufacturers take. In your shoes I would have been taking the rifle and all back and asking for a refund and let them know why. A few people doing that and those short cuts, prick of embugerances stop.

If people did this we might start getting the full quality that we are paying for.
If you are handy like @BeeMaa , the time to correct their shipping error by fixing it yourself is much less than the time to make phone calls and wait to get it delivered again.
 
If you are handy like @BeeMaa , the time to correct their shipping error by fixing it yourself is much less than the time to make phone calls and wait to get it delivered again.
Baamaa's actions are what I used to do. I then became sick and tired of excepting 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc best. I realised I was a big part of the problem and now jump through the hoops. The companies hate it but enough do it and we won't have to except sub standard and won't have to jump through hoops. I also give them grief over the hoops we have to jump through. The more of their time and effort I can burn, the more it costs them. This is where it hurts them. Life is just way to short to tolerate sub standard work and products. I want to enjoy what I buy not have to fuck around to make it work.
 

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Grz63 wrote on Werty's profile.
(cont'd)
Rockies museum,
CM Russel museum and lewis and Clark interpretative center
Horseback riding in Summer star ranch
Charlo bison range and Garnet ghost town
Flathead lake, road to the sun and hiking in Glacier NP
and back to SLC (via Ogden and Logan)
Grz63 wrote on Werty's profile.
Good Morning,
I plan to visit MT next Sept.
May I ask you to give me your comments; do I forget something ? are my choices worthy ? Thank you in advance
Philippe (France)

Start in Billings, Then visit little big horn battlefield,
MT grizzly encounter,
a hot springs (do you have good spots ?)
Looking to buy a 375 H&H or .416 Rem Mag if anyone has anything they want to let go of
 
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