Can I Use Pledge to Shine a rifle?

[TucsonFX4]

Anyone have a link to the proper way of applying the renaissance wax? I tried a search on here but only found this thread.

 

[375 Ruger Fan]

Anyone have a link to the proper way of applying the renaissance wax? I tried a search on here but only found this thread.

Larry Porterfield shows you how

 

[TucsonFX4]

Thanks. I thought there might be a special procedure, but it looks to be more about disassembly and getting into all the nooks and cranny’s.

 

[NE 7x57]

AR doesn't get babied here either. it would die of shock if it was waxed.

 

[buck wild]

the only waxing done around my house is, well my wife's..... tool.

 

[Scott CWO]

the only waxing done around my house is, well my wife's..... tool.

@buck wild is a very appropriate handle for you it would seem lol

 

[Rare Breed]

ArmorAll would be a good suggestion for the old Ruger rubbermaid type synthetic stocks. I certainly wouldn't use either renaissance or a furniture oil on one as a first choice.

Thanks Redleg for the renaissance recommendation. Had not heard of it, bought some and love the look it gives to my Rigby and soon for my Chapuis DR when it comes back from JJ

 

[Daniel Cary]

ArmorAll good suggestion for the ruger, that did scare the hell out of me, open the case this week, still a little chalky, but way better since pledge, needed moisture.
It's fine.
Renaissance, really cool & thank you, link, video help, etc.

What really provoked this thread/question is the Finish on the Verney-Carron. It's not satin, i think? semi gloss ?. But it literally gleams, a beautiful finish.
I've used those Rem-Oil wipes post cleaning shotguns, idk if thats a good idea?
I really don't want to get too carried away here. But do not want to ruin the VC.

A damp clean rag perhaps, just a simple polish I thought might be better than "wax"?
So, Thank You to everyone that responded really, perhaps this sounds a little ridiculous to some, but I just want to simply take care of these properly.

 

[C.W. Richter]

'Been using Pledge on fine wood stocks for years (Lemon scent is best! ;p ) Have NOT used it on metal (quality gun oil like Rem that leaves a coating in/on safe queens and/or ballistol for regularly used rigs as not to coat them up.) The primary reason I try to keep the furniture polish off the metal is that it's water-based. Yes, the idea is that the water is the solvent carrier for the solute (wax), it dries and leaves a waxy film on the surface, but I just don't wish to take chances on perfectly blued metal. (It's exceedingly similar to the automated car wash waxes and that used on fruits. (i.e. citrashine). Gun oil and furniture polish (S. of the border they call it "Favor!" LOL I've used it on deer hunts.) or wax are cheap. Fine guns are not. On the other hand, no issue getting gun oil on synthetic or coated stocks and metal-most of those materials are petroleum based to begin with. Also glad Bespoke!

 

[Woodcarver]

ArmorAll good suggestion for the ruger, that did scare the hell out of me, open the case this week, still a little chalky, but way better since pledge, needed moisture.
It's fine.
Renaissance, really cool & thank you, link, video help, etc.

What really provoked this thread/question is the Finish on the Verney-Carron. It's not satin, i think? semi gloss ?. But it literally gleams, a beautiful finish.
I've used those Rem-Oil wipes post cleaning shotguns, idk if thats a good idea?
I really don't want to get too carried away here. But do not want to ruin the VC. View attachment 451600

A damp clean rag perhaps, just a simple polish I thought might be better than "wax"?
So, Thank You to everyone that responded really, perhaps this sounds a little ridiculous to some, but I just want to simply take care of these properly.

Rem-Oil on the hardware is fine, but not ideal for an oil finished stock. Ever notice the dark edge on older firearms? That is the cumulative effect of gun oil over time soaking into the wood, weakening the wood fiber.
@rookhawk does a great job explaining his method of periodic stock maintenance. Use his method on your VC.

 

[Daniel Cary]

'Been using Pledge on fine wood stocks for years (Lemon scent is best! ;p ) Have NOT used it on metal (quality gun oil like Rem that leaves a coating in/on safe queens and/or ballistol for regularly used rigs as not to coat them up.) The primary reason I try to keep the furniture polish off the metal is that it's water-based. Yes, the idea is that the water is the solvent carrier for the solute (wax), it dries and leaves a waxy film on the surface, but I just don't wish to take chances on perfectly blued metal. Gun oil and furniture polish (S. of the border they call it "Favor!" LOL I've used it on deer hunts.) are cheap. Fine guns are not. On the other hand, no issue getting gun oil on synthetic or coated stocks and metal-most of those materials are petroleum based to begin with. Also glad Bespoke!

Thank You .. Just talked to a dealer, they use Rem-Oil on the Barrels/Receiver's & sometimes on the wood, though a separate rag so as to not scratch the wood. He said do a little research on the wood however, that Polyurethane finish can be subjective/dependent.

Anyhow, off & running, well said & Thank You again.
Hell of a nice place & people.

 

[C.W. Richter]

Being in the business of cleaning up every toxic substance known to mankind (their properties must be understood to effectively remove them from where they don't belong), I just have to weigh in and reinforce what Woodcarver said above re: NOT using gun oils on wood stock finishes!!! Over time, it will change and/or remove the finish. Mr. Miagi was correct, but the 2nd half of his sentence was left on the cutting room floor: "Wax On (Wood); Oil on Metal!" ex: I have my "prized" Mossberg 640K heavy bbl "Chuckster" model in .22 WMR that I got when I was 10. I used to take it apart, clean thoroughly, oil too much, etc. getting it all over the stock. Over the years, after 1,000s of woodchucks, the stock got darker and darker (it looked like a fine turkish walnut color in poor shape!) Now, that was a $150 gun/scope combo, but it happened! My son loved it so much that I later had it re-blued and refinished the stock (costing much more than the gun's initial price,) but it's so sentimental and still shoots perfectly. And that's the only time you'll see "Prized Mossberg" used in a sentence here, ever. If i recall correctly that finish is walnut (oil) stain and matte varnish on the finest cut of birch LOL, but even that was messed up by oil.

 

[375 Ruger Fan]

'Been using Pledge on fine wood stocks for years (Lemon scent is best! ;p ) Have NOT used it on metal (quality gun oil like Rem that leaves a coating in/on safe queens and/or ballistol for regularly used rigs as not to coat them up.) The primary reason I try to keep the furniture polish off the metal is that it's water-based. Yes, the idea is that the water is the solvent carrier for the solute (wax), it dries and leaves a waxy film on the surface, but I just don't wish to take chances on perfectly blued metal. (It's exceedingly similar to the automated car wash waxes and that used on fruits. (i.e. citrashine). Gun oil and furniture polish (S. of the border they call it "Favor!" LOL I've used it on deer hunts.) or wax are cheap. Fine guns are not. On the other hand, no issue getting gun oil on synthetic or coated stocks and metal-most of those materials are petroleum based to begin with. Also glad Bespoke!

Not sure I want my hunting guns smelling of lemon scent. I think deer, elk and kudu like the smell of Hoppes and Ballistol.

 

[C.W. Richter]

Not sure I want my hunting guns smelling of lemon scent. I think deer, elk and kudu like the smell of Hoppes and Ballistol.

I've hunted in FL and the Nottingham citrus plantation in Zim. Without this adjunct, I would've NEVER gotten the best bushbuck i've ever seen in the wild. 'Got a decent warthog after "blowing" a shot on a HUGE one-it seems a R&W orange was in the path of the bullet. 160 Woodleighs are/were hell on citrus (and my PH got a good laugh out of it!!!) The lemony scent gets you closer! 'Understand they now have Lavander...that may be similar enough to African violet and worthy of a try?!

 

[rookhawk]

Two separate questions happening really:

1.) “What can I put on the wood that won’t ruin it?” Answers are lots of things. I’m told ballistol, classic doubles, and surely 10,000 other things from household options.

The question I prefer:

2.) “What can I put on wood that not only protects, but I can also remove in order to apply more stock oil finish to conserve my gun throughout its life, rather than being forced to sand it down and start over?” That’s a very short list. A.) Bowling Alley Paster Wax”, B.) Renaissance Wax, C.) A snake oil made by one of the premium gunstock finish companies like CLP or Purdey. (NOT BIRCHWOOD CASEY)

I’m sure many people will chime in with other opinions or to say I’m wrong, I just lack the cajones to try to press my luck. I know what won’t ruin a quality gun finish, that I can remove it with mineral spirits to add more oil and then reapply the wax, etc.

 

[Daniel Cary]

"Do you have a Problem with That, Mr. Lawrence?"

 

[Daniel Cary]

Sory, couldn't help it ... lemon pledge will do just fine

 

[375 Ruger Fan]

 

[C.W. Richter]

Not sure I want my hunting guns smelling of lemon scent. I think deer, elk and kudu like the smell of Hoppes and Ballistol.

If you can still find it, mil-spec Stoddard's Solvent in the lil OD green metal brake fluid cans is the secret to bagging ALL NA game! The scent Is irresistable (and carcinogenic with repeated use.)

 

[Daniel Cary]

Jesus, H! That's great, were dying here