CIP VS SAAMI for 6.5X55 SE what do you load?

[shootist~]

I would chalk it up to PPU case quality - not the best for sure. Maybe it's just soft metal.(??)

However, if other factory brands (Norma, Remington, Lapua, etc.,) show similar ejector marks, I would be concerned about the rifle. (Excessive headspace would be a possible, especially if a surplus militantly rifle.)

I don't load PPU (too much of a snob ), but my nephew sent me pics of fired PPU 6.5CM recently with what appears to be a (different) quality issue. I advised him to watch it closely, but probably limit to only two or three reloads.

 

[Frederik]

Would these cases be safe to reload with?
Eventually i will be looking at lapua or norma cases, but this is what I have for now

Francois you are welcom to give me a call if you want. 083 709 8927

 

[Desperatezulu]

Primers look fine - bit of an odd one getting the ejector marks like that with factory ammo. Can only think that the brass is very soft. I presume you had no issues chambering them? I.e. there wasn't a(n insufficient) headspace issue where you might have been bumping the shoulder back and forcing the case onto the ejector pin?

I would reload with them and see how you go. If there is anything funky going on in the case head, the primer pockets will probably be stretched, which will be obvious when you seat new primers.

Other than using Lapua, I found a cheap batch of Winchester cases years back - a couple had cracked necks before even being reloaded. And about 15 out of the batch of 100 had 'blow-by' on the primers on the first firing. Which got them instantly retired. The remaining cases have been loaded a few times (4 or 5) with loads running around 55.5k psi according to GRT and no ill effects. But they're just plinking cases and I'm not too concerned whether they last or not. I mention this to share some experience with difference cases.

With the Lapuas, the case life has been exceptional - I'm at around 35x reloaded and almost all of those loads have been close to red-line. I lost 2 or 3 to cracked necks along the way (none since I switched to annealing every reloading cycle a few years back) and a few are now getting loose primer pockets.
I believe that with sound reloading/case-prep practices, a box of 100 could last the lifetime of the barrel in a Swede.

 

[shark_za]

I dont see an issue there, are those marks just not where it hits the ejector when you cycle the action?

 

[shark_za]

Ok just thinking how the Howa ejection works, its a spring that rides in the bolt.
So no matter how hard you work the action its just the spring and any marks should come from ignition.
I would think headspace over pressure, like its moving in the chamber.

 

[francois_458]

Ok, so I've resized my brass and, before doing so chambered a few of them. There is some resistance but not an excessive amount, but considerably more than when I chambered the factory ammo. I resized them, still resistance, so I gradually moved the die deeper, but still I find resistance. I don't want to set the die any deeper. What to do?
New brass?
Ps. I'm heading in to the gunsmith in a week or two to have a suppressor fitted, will ask him to have a look as well

 

[Desperatezulu]

Did you neck-size or FL resize?
Maybe read the guidelines on the GS customs website on how to "partial full-length resize" - it gives good tips on measuring how much you need to bump the shoulders back and how to set up a FL die to do this.

With tight chambering, there could be a few sources of the problem. One option is to blacken a sized case (use a smoky candle flame) and carefully feed it into the chamber and see where the blacking is rubbed off. It should be one of the neck (unlikely), shoulder or the case body 10-15mm ahead of the web.

If the shoulder, then you need to bump the shoulder back more (see my suggestion above about partial FL resizing).
If the case body has bulged then deeper FL sizing might solve the problem, or else you need a body die (Redding supplies them). A bulge in the case body after one firing probably points to an oversized chamber.

I don't think new brass is called for just yet. Rather diagnose the problem and go from there. If it's a chamber or die set-up issue, then no point harming new brass until you know this and can fix it.

 

[francois_458]

Did you neck-size or FL resize?
Maybe read the guidelines on the GS customs website on how to "partial full-length resize" - it gives good tips on measuring how much you need to bump the shoulders back and how to set up a FL die to do this.

With tight chambering, there could be a few sources of the problem. One option is to blacken a sized case (use a smoky candle flame) and carefully feed it into the chamber and see where the blacking is rubbed off. It should be one of the neck (unlikely), shoulder or the case body 10-15mm ahead of the web.

If the shoulder, then you need to bump the shoulder back more (see my suggestion above about partial FL resizing).
If the case body has bulged then deeper FL sizing might solve the problem, or else you need a body die (Redding supplies them). A bulge in the case body after one firing probably points to an oversized chamber.

I don't think new brass is called for just yet. Rather diagnose the problem and go from there. If it's a chamber or die set-up issue, then no point harming new brass until you know this and can fix it.

I am full length sizing with a lee die.
I'll have a look at their website thanks

 

[Frederik]

You got good advice above.