Elk Rifle

Thinking about putting together an elk rifle. Looking for suggestions on rifle, scope and caliber - anything smaller than 7mm need not apply

In the "storied caliber" world the 7x57 and 7x64 are awesome choices that can be found in very attractive vintage and custom rifles.

In the "affordable and American" options a 7 rem mag and the 280 are really good calibers.

In the "mid-priced and vintage" category a pre-64 winchester model 70 in 300HH is an elk slayer of first order that shoots a myriad of bullet weights with more class and less recoil than the 300winmag that is so popular amongst elk hunters.

As to optics, I have no desire to sit at a bench all day, nor do I have a desire to take that same gun in a benchrest style stock and shoot elk prone at 800 yards. Therefore, I'm interested in stalking rifles with practical geometries and reasonable scopes. A 1-8x24mm swarovski, a 3-9x36mm swarovski ($3000 and $650 respectively) are probably two of the finest optics ever made for shots inside 400 yards. Put them in low rings and you have a lightweight package to get you through the timber to take an elk.

P.S. - All the above combinations are wholly acceptable for plains game safaris, black bear, wild boar, and about anything else smaller than a bison/buffalo/brown bear.
 
Elk hunting can provide real challenge: tough animals, terrain, weather. I like the 300WM because I think it gives me some margin in difficult situations. I have both an R8 and a Seekins Havak Element, and have used both 180 gr Barnes TTSX and Federal 200 gr Terminal Ascent. I am considering one of the new Seekins rifles in 7 BC (Backcountry) in order to have a shorter, lighter rifle to use with a can, without compromising on ballistics. Took this guy in northern New Mexico with the 200 TA.

View attachment 663937
View attachment 663938
How do you like the Terminal ascent vs. the TTSX? My Blaser R8 in 300 WM and 375 H&H arrives monday and I’m looking for a WM load for my next trip to Africa. So far, I have 3 boxes of 200 gr Terminal ascent though 165 and 180 gr TTSX are readily available as well.

The 375 H&H is getting 300 gr TSX factory loads as long as they shoot well. Haven’t been able to find any other premium 300gr softs here in Alberta anyhow.
 
How do you like the Terminal ascent vs. the TTSX? My Blaser R8 in 300 WM and 375 H&H arrives monday and I’m looking for a WM load for my next trip to Africa. So far, I have 3 boxes of 200 gr Terminal ascent though 165 and 180 gr TTSX are readily available as well.

The 375 H&H is getting 300 gr TSX factory loads as long as they shoot well. Haven’t been able to find any other premium 300gr softs here in Alberta anyhow.
The easy answer is whatever shoots best in your rifle. They both shoot well enough for me; so far the elk haven’t noticed a difference.
 
Amazing! Congrats!
Thanks! I went back and looked at the picture of the elk I shot in Utah. I stand corrected. It was a Savage 110 in 300 WM. The A-bolt I used in Idaho for mule deer. Either way, it's hard to beat a 300 WM for those longer shots in rough country.
IMG_20171006_083318708.jpg
 
I’ve shot 10 or more with a bow. Several with iron sight muzzle loader. So a DR could definitely work.

the determining factor is more about the time of year and season for each weapon. There are private land hunts where you can hunt earlier in the season with a rifle. Usually the state allows that if the land owner allows a hand full of public hunters per year. These can be pricey.

Elk hunting public land during rifle elk season it’s tough to get with DR range. But it is not impossible. Especially if you can shoot 200 yards

I agree with @Altitude sickness Altitude, there are so many variables when hunting elk. The biggest variables being location, time of year, and what your goal is for the hunt. To add to his thoughts.

Elk hunting in Utah spans from mid-August through December, with minimal breaks between seasons. This means hunters may encounter everything from the heat of August to the snowy conditions of December, or anything in between. The terrain is just as varied, ranging from southern deserts to dense mountain timber and high-altitude subalpine regions. If you plan to hunt elk more than once, you’ll eventually experience all these conditions, as elk tags are becoming increasingly difficult to obtain.

There are significant differences between hunting bull elk and cows, but I’ll focus on bull hunting, specifically the large six-point bulls that every hunter dreams of one day hunting.

Tag Options for Bull Elk Hunting in Utah:

1. Over-the-Counter Public Land Tags
These are the easiest tags to obtain and are generally attainable most years. However, competition is heavy, as thousands of hunters are limited to specific areas where these tags are valid. The rifle and muzzleloader seasons last only a week each, while the archery season extends for two weeks.

Elk in these areas are particularly difficult to approach due to high hunting pressure. If you're not prepared to take longer shots, your chances of success decrease significantly. To put things in perspective, many Utah bowhunters prefer close-range shots but still practice at 100–120 yards in case that’s the only opportunity they get. In these public hunting areas, you’ll be lucky to get one shot in an entire season, and the success rate for these hunts is well below 10%.

2. Limited-Entry Draw Tags
The next-best option is drawing a limited-entry bull elk tag. These tags apply to various units across the state, offering better odds, less hunting pressure, and success rates upwards of 75%. The downside? It takes an average of 13+ years to draw one of these coveted tags, and for premium units with the potential for 350+ class bulls the wait could be 20+ years.

These hunts are highly rewarding, with fewer hunters, more elk encounters, and a greater chance of harvesting a trophy bull. However, considering the rarity of drawing these tags, most hunters will only get two or three of these opportunities in a lifetime. When that moment finally arrives, you’ll want to be fully prepared, including the ability to take a long-range shot if necessary.

3. Landowner and Auction Tags
The final way to secure a bull elk tag is to buy one. Options include private Cooperative Wildlife Management Units (CWMUs) or nonprofit hunting auctions held at banquets and online. These hunts offer flexibility, you can choose the type of experience you want, you can reasonably expect less pressured animals usually offering shorter shooting distances and higher success rates, typically above 95%.

However, this comes at a steep price. Expect to pay between $20,000–$40,000 for one of these tags, often booking a year or two in advance. In 2024, Utah’s statewide elk tag sold for $190,000 at an auction. While these hunts provide the best overall experience, most hunters on this forum would prioritize other dream hunts before spending that kind of money on a single week of elk hunting.

Another factor that will greatly influence shot opportunities, include whether the hunt takes place during the rut. Rutting bulls can sometimes be called in to within just a few feet of the hunter. However, the rut’s timing varies each year based on weather patterns and other variables, so planning a mid-September hunt could mean hitting the rut perfectly—or missing it entirely.

Ideally, every hunter dreams of sneaking in close, taking a shot at an elk they can smell, or while watching two six-point bulls fight for cows. The reality? You take whatever tags you can get and adapt to the conditions at hand. The best advice is to hope for a shot inside 100 yards but be prepared for whatever opportunity the bull of your dreams presents.

Over the years I’ve harvested many elk, some at distances so close I worried they’d fall on us in the makeshift blinds after the shot, others at more than 700 yards. Hunting bull elk is an adventure, whether you’re exploring familiar ground or new country. The key is to be prepared and stay adaptable. Don’t try to force an ideal scenario that may never come, because unless you're willing to spend big money, you’ll only get a few chances to experience it with your own tag in hand.

Not my biggest elk but probably one of my most satisfying.
IMG_2218.jpg
 
I agree with @Altitude sickness Altitude, there are so many variables when hunting elk. The biggest variables being location, time of year, and what your goal is for the hunt. To add to his thoughts.

Elk hunting in Utah spans from mid-August through December, with minimal breaks between seasons. This means hunters may encounter everything from the heat of August to the snowy conditions of December, or anything in between. The terrain is just as varied, ranging from southern deserts to dense mountain timber and high-altitude subalpine regions. If you plan to hunt elk more than once, you’ll eventually experience all these conditions, as elk tags are becoming increasingly difficult to obtain.

There are significant differences between hunting bull elk and cows, but I’ll focus on bull hunting, specifically the large six-point bulls that every hunter dreams of one day hunting.

Tag Options for Bull Elk Hunting in Utah:

1. Over-the-Counter Public Land Tags
These are the easiest tags to obtain and are generally attainable most years. However, competition is heavy, as thousands of hunters are limited to specific areas where these tags are valid. The rifle and muzzleloader seasons last only a week each, while the archery season extends for two weeks.

Elk in these areas are particularly difficult to approach due to high hunting pressure. If you're not prepared to take longer shots, your chances of success decrease significantly. To put things in perspective, many Utah bowhunters prefer close-range shots but still practice at 100–120 yards in case that’s the only opportunity they get. In these public hunting areas, you’ll be lucky to get one shot in an entire season, and the success rate for these hunts is well below 10%.

2. Limited-Entry Draw Tags
The next-best option is drawing a limited-entry bull elk tag. These tags apply to various units across the state, offering better odds, less hunting pressure, and success rates upwards of 75%. The downside? It takes an average of 13+ years to draw one of these coveted tags, and for premium units with the potential for 350+ class bulls the wait could be 20+ years.

These hunts are highly rewarding, with fewer hunters, more elk encounters, and a greater chance of harvesting a trophy bull. However, considering the rarity of drawing these tags, most hunters will only get two or three of these opportunities in a lifetime. When that moment finally arrives, you’ll want to be fully prepared, including the ability to take a long-range shot if necessary.

3. Landowner and Auction Tags
The final way to secure a bull elk tag is to buy one. Options include private Cooperative Wildlife Management Units (CWMUs) or nonprofit hunting auctions held at banquets and online. These hunts offer flexibility, you can choose the type of experience you want, you can reasonably expect less pressured animals usually offering shorter shooting distances and higher success rates, typically above 95%.

However, this comes at a steep price. Expect to pay between $20,000–$40,000 for one of these tags, often booking a year or two in advance. In 2024, Utah’s statewide elk tag sold for $190,000 at an auction. While these hunts provide the best overall experience, most hunters on this forum would prioritize other dream hunts before spending that kind of money on a single week of elk hunting.

Another factor that will greatly influence shot opportunities, include whether the hunt takes place during the rut. Rutting bulls can sometimes be called in to within just a few feet of the hunter. However, the rut’s timing varies each year based on weather patterns and other variables, so planning a mid-September hunt could mean hitting the rut perfectly—or missing it entirely.

Ideally, every hunter dreams of sneaking in close, taking a shot at an elk they can smell, or while watching two six-point bulls fight for cows. The reality? You take whatever tags you can get and adapt to the conditions at hand. The best advice is to hope for a shot inside 100 yards but be prepared for whatever opportunity the bull of your dreams presents.

Over the years I’ve harvested many elk, some at distances so close I worried they’d fall on us in the makeshift blinds after the shot, others at more than 700 yards. Hunting bull elk is an adventure, whether you’re exploring familiar ground or new country. The key is to be prepared and stay adaptable. Don’t try to force an ideal scenario that may never come, because unless you're willing to spend big money, you’ll only get a few chances to experience it with your own tag in hand.

Not my biggest elk but probably one of my most satisfying.
View attachment 664086
Thank you for the in depth answer. But .300 WM in Tikka Superlite sound the like the right medicine to you? It's accurate, super light, and .300 wm should kill any elk that walks the earth.
 
Thank you for the in depth answer. But .300 WM in Tikka Superlite sound the like the right medicine to you? It's accurate, super light, and .300 wm should kill any elk that walks the earth.
With any luck you will be in the elk for a chance at a close shot, but a 300 WM with a 180 grain bullet will be plenty out past 500 yards. At 8-9 pounds loaded with a scope it will be a little jumpy so get used to it, shoot it, and be ready when the time comes.

I have two rifles I use for most of my North American hunts including elk, all in and loaded a 9 pound 300 RUM, and an 8 pound suppressed 300 WSM. Neither rifle kicks even close to my 375 H&H, but when putting in long miles walking and glassing for bulls the pounds add up.

My 11 year old can shoot the 300 WSM without complaining about recoil. We regularly practice out to 500 yards on steel, he will get the chance to take his first bull later this year. Based on the advertised rifle weight of the Tikka at 6.4 pounds plus a couple pounds for a scope rings and bullets, my guess is your recoil wouldn't be much worse than the 300 WSM.

Good luck and we all want to see the pictures.
 
Thank you for the in depth answer. But .300 WM in Tikka Superlite sound the like the right medicine to you? It's accurate, super light, and .300 wm should kill any elk that walks the earth.
It's real close to perfect. I personally think mine gave me a flinch that affected my shooting. went to a 6.5 PRC Mauser M18 then a Christensen in same caliber. Shot the 127 Barnes LRX. Never recovered a either bullet shot through the meat of both shoulders.
 
This is what I've killed 30 Saskatchewan elk with. Cartridge didn't seem to matter much actually. A good quality bullet that expands and digs deep without fragmenting too much is important in my opinion. Nosler Partitions and Accubond, Norma Oryx, Speer Grand Slam, Barnes TTSX, RWS H mantel, etc. If choosing a specific elk cartridge today I'd probably stick with a .35 Whelen / 250 gr. or the very similar 9.3x62 / 285 gr. because after shooting 17 elk with them I have the most experience and full confidence with that style of moderate velocity/ heavy bullet cartridge. In my certainly biased local experience, there is absolutely no "need" for a competent hunter to shoot an elk at more than 300 yards, despite current fashion and marketing hype. Average range on these animals works out to less than 130 yards.

.308 Win Savage 110 180 CIL KKSP RN 1
.308 Win Rem 700 BDL 180 Nos PTN 1
.35 Whelen Rem 700 Classic 250 Speer GS, 250 Horn RN, 250 Horn SP, 225 Barnes X 4,2,1,1
.356 Win Win 94 Big Bore AE 250 Win FP 1
7x64 Brno 21H 162 RWS TUG 1
7x57 Brno 22F 175 Norma RN 1
.270 win Sauer 200 140 TBBC 1
.35 Whelen Sako AV Classic 250 Speer GS, 250 Speer SP, 250 Horn RN, 225 TBBC 3,1,2,1
.35 Whelen Ruger 1S 225 Nos BT 1
.375 H&H Ruger 77 RSM 260 Nos PTN 2
8x57 JS Brno 21H 200 RWS T Mantel 1
30-06 Sako L579 Fullstock Carbine 180 Norma Oryx 1
.308 Win Sauer 202 Fullstock Carbine 180 Nos PTN 1
9.3x62 Verney-Carron Impact Plus Takedown 286 Lapua Mega 1
.450-400 3” Nitro Express Merkel 140 AE Double 400 Horn DGX 1
7x64 Sako 85 Bavarian 174 RWS H Mantel, 160 Bitterroot bonded 1,1
30-06 Brno ZKK 600 Griesbach 180 Norma Oryx 1
.375 H&H Sako M85 Kodiak 270 gr. Fed RN 1

I think a good rifle chambered for .338 Winchester Magnum would be a fine choice if you can handle the recoil. Top it with a high quality scope with good low light capability and a simple reticle, such as duplex or #4, perhaps illuminated centre, load some decent 200-225 gr. bullets, and you'll be all set.
 
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