Is Annealing important for hunting loads?

[JimP]

First make sure that the case is unloaded

I'll deprime and size the case along with cleaning it before I start to anneal it.

Then when done I'll run the case through the sizing die again.

It really hasn't been mentioned but as I said above I use the cake pan method. Stand the cases up in a cake pan in a inch of water. Then run a propane torch over the necks and shoulders. When you have reached the correct temperature around 800 degrees just knock all the cases down into the water. I have done as many a 50 at a time this way.

 

[Pheroze]

First make sure that the case is unloaded

I suspect this is a critical step?

 

[Longwalker]

Annealing is a good idea to extend the life of old brass and to make brass that has been shot several times have more consistent neck tension without splitting the case mouths. I do that for practise loads, target loads and varmint loads. But I would never hunt African game or any game that required a lot of planning and travel and expense with brass that is that old. I use only new or 1x fired or at the most 2x fired brass for serious hunting loads. Annealing is not helpful for proper hunting loads.

 

[Pheroze]

Annealing is a good idea to extend the life of old brass and to make brass that has been shot several times have more consistent neck tension without splitting the case mouths. I do that for practise loads, target loads and varmint loads. But I would never hunt African game or any game that required a lot of planning and travel and expense with brass that is that old. I use only new or 1x fired or at the most 2x fired brass for serious hunting loads. Annealing is not helpful for proper hunting loads.

That is a good thought. I planned on using 1x brass for the actual hunt when I am travelling to Africa. Now that you raise the idea, probably equally important when heading to the cabin.

 

[Northwest9]

i have a propane burner, a 6 inch socket extension, and a socket that neatly fits the case

I lightly heat the shoulder and neck, NOT all off the case, whilst turning the extension in my hand and then i drop the case into a bucket of water at my feet.

you dont want to heat them glowing, just a quick bit of heat

 

[shootist~]

Thanks guys. I load a 308 Norma Mag which is not really easy to find. So might be just worth it to buy an anealing machine of some form. Although, they are not cheap and that can buy a bunch of brass.

I anneal on a $250 ish Annealeez machine. I have a small batch of Lapua 9.3x62 that has now been fired 8 times. Several other smaller calibers have batches with 6 or 7 reloads (Norma and Lapua brands, only), and those look good for one or two more.

Zero split necks.
I think it's paid for itself and also feel the reload quality is somewhat better maintained with annealing.

If loading magnum cases, check and verify they will fit in your intended annealing machine. The Annealeez requires a conversion kit to go from small & standard sized cases to magnum cases. (338 WM dont fit - so the few that I reload are done by hand.)

As a side note, I would never attempt to get more than 3 or 4 reloads with my Federal 338 WM brass due to possible case head separation.

 

[JLF]

In what order do you do things when you anneal?

The annealing was carried out before the partial total recalibration.

 

[shootist~]

I cean/polish the fired brass first, then anneal, resize, trim if needed, load.

 

[deewayne2003]

i have a propane burner, a 6 inch socket extension, and a socket that neatly fits the case

I lightly heat the shoulder and neck, NOT all off the case, whilst turning the extension in my hand and then i drop the case into a bucket of water at my feet.

you dont want to heat them glowing, just a quick bit of heat

This is the same method I use and it doesn't take up the space of a machine and you may have all the materials at home already.

If you are not sure about the correct temp, there is one easy way to get it correct.... temperature sensitive paint takes the guess work out and 1 bottle of this stuff will last a LONG time.

Amazon.com: Tempil 24423 TEMPILAQ Advanced TL060 Temperature Indicating Liquid, 399 Degree C/750 Degree F, 2 oz.: Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Tempil 24423 TEMPILAQ Advanced TL060 Temperature Indicating Liquid, 399 Degree C/750 Degree F, 2 oz.: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

You just follow the instructions on the paint and time how long it takes.(do this with each caliber)

I tumble my brass, anneal them and then resize.

Using a deep walled socket long enough to allow the neck to stick out, mount the socket in an electric screwdriver and set to low speed with a propane torch sitting on the work bench.

Insert casing into socket and slowly spin the socket while holding the neck into the torch flame for the pre determined amount of time and then drop the brass into a small pan of water when correct temp is reached.

 

[KTMpilot]

You can use tempilaq to make sure your heating the case with the torch the same every time

Does anyone maybe have a trick to stop Tempilaq going hard in the bottle once it has been opened and used ? I have a bottle of Tempilaq, bought it a year ago and used it once, wanted to use some again this morning and it has gone rock hard FFS.

 

[KTMpilot]

Does anyone maybe have a trick to stop Tempilaq going hard in the bottle once it has been opened and used ? I have a bottle of Tempilaq, bought it a year ago and used it once, wanted to use some again this morning and it has gone rock hard FFS.

Disregard, I found the answer:

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

I have been reading a lot about annealing. Is this mainly for competitors or should hunters anneal their brass too?

@Pheroze
If you want to get the most life out of your cases anneal then.
If you don't mind throwing money around and only get a few loads out of each case no problem.
There's a person I read if that buys a new rifle and 100 rounds of ammo. Anneals after every five shots and says that 109 cases lasts the life of his rifle. He gets in excess of 30 reloads per case
I also found it helps with accuracy
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Thanks guys. I load a 308 Norma Mag which is not really easy to find. So might be just worth it to buy an anealing machine of some form. Although, they are not cheap and that can buy a bunch of brass.

@Pheroze
If'n y'all want to save money you can make your own induction annealer for less than 200 dollars.
Just check out you tube. Easy to make even I did it
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

That sounds like it could be a fun project. Please do share those plans, thanks!

@Pheroze
Just check out home made induction annealer you tube.
You can anneal a 22 Hornet case in 1.6 seconds a Whelen case in 3.8 seconds. Does the neck and shoulder for best results.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

This and a timer wired into it and you have an induction annealer. Price is Australia's dollar.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

You can use tempilaq to make sure your heating the case with the torch the same every time

@Still alive
I use 799 degree F templac
Bob

 

[LHPF565]

I anneal for both hunting and comp ammo. yes it extends the life of brass but more importantly it ensures the consistency of the neck tension which does affect accuracy, pressures and velocity.

I have been reading a lot about annealing. Is this mainly for competitors or should hunters anneal their brass too?n

 

[LHPF565]

In what order do you do things when you anneal?

doesnt much matter honestly. I deprime, size, clean then anneal, trim/chamfer/debur, prime, powder, seat bullet
as long as you have deprimed the brass anneal before or after sizing or cleaning or neck prepping.

 

[Muskox]

Annea

In what order do you do things when you anneal?

Deprime
Clean
Anneal
Size
Chamfer/debur