Little tips that can make a big difference?

[HankBuck]

It took me probably ten years of marriage to realize this one.

I keep tampons in my truck and other adventure vehicles. Not because of any survival, stop a sucking chest wound kind of thing.

I can tell you from personal experience, if your wife or girlfriend has an unexpected visitor…

A polite and gentle solution to that situation really saves the day.

That is my tip.

@John the Electrician - OK John, that “tip” is certainly never winning any awards - this is a HUNTING FORUM and the only references to “blood” should be How-to-track-it !!

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

@John the Electrician - OK John, that “tip” is certainly never winning any awards - this is a HUNTING FORUM and the only references to “blood” should be How-to-track-it !!

I don’t know…. Nothing would ruin a hunt quicker than "we have to go NOW, and don’t ask" followed by a glare that would stop a charging lion in its tracks
Gumpy

 

[HankBuck]

I don’t know…. Nothing would ruin a hunt quicker than "we have to go NOW, and don’t ask" followed by a glare that would stop a charging lion in its tracks
Gumpy

@Grumpy gumpy - let the “lioness” leave if she has to but the LION keeps hunting

 

[BGGMKLR]

When purchasing a firearm that cannot be personally inspected, request pics of the item...with any common household item of your choice included in each pic. Anything...a banana, a fork, a remote control...
Doing so eliminates several possible concerns and ensures that:

The pics are current, and accurately reflect the real time condition of the item,

and

Pretty much guarentees that the seller actually has possession of the item he is attempting to sell.


Due diligence is your friend...and will reduce your " scam-ability" exponentially.
Best
Spike

 

[50Gunner]

Here's a few little tips that can make a difference, save a few tears, and a sh-t pile of money too.

ANY fine walnut stocked hunting rifle has to have stock mounting screw clearance, take rifle apart, get a small light and peer down the holes, you can see marring or rub lines on the wood, also visible on the middle screws on Model 70's etc, etc.

I hand drill the holes with a bit a tic larger than the factory drilled holes, get a little 55 gal drum barrel shaped sandpaper bit for your Dremel, open and deepen the middle recess in the stock for ALL rifles with three stock mounting bolts.

Take rifle to 'Smith and have him relieve the wood a touch behind the rear action tang, saw my 'Smith do that for me on an FN Belgian Mauser with some sort of end mill cutter? upright with stock leveled with a bubble level that looked like a round pole, really cool to get to see.

I took it home, used Q-tip with 100% Tung oil to treat the new exposed wood, a couple coats over a couple days does just fine, do the same when I drill out holes at home.

If your stocks screws don't drop freely to the steel threaded holes in the receiver, or you cant see a bit of clearance at the rear tang, you are asking for a heartbreak!

You do not want any steel chisels working at splitting your stock each time you fire the weapon.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Here's a few little tips that can make a difference, save a few tears, and a sh-t pile of money too.

ANY fine walnut stocked hunting rifle has to have stock mounting screw clearance, take rifle apart, get a small light and peer down the holes, you can see marring or rub lines on the wood, also visible on the middle screws on Model 70's etc, etc.

I hand drill the holes with a bit a tic larger than the factory drilled holes, get a little 55 gal drum barrel shaped sandpaper bit for your Dremel, open and deepen the middle recess in the stock for ALL rifles with three stock mounting bolts.

Take rifle to 'Smith and have him relieve the wood a touch behind the rear action tang, saw my 'Smith do that for me on an FN Belgian Mauser with some sort of end mill cutter? upright with stock leveled with a bubble level that looked like a round pole, really cool to get to see.

I took it home, used Q-tip with 100% Tung oil to treat the new exposed wood, a couple coats over a couple days does just fine, do the same when I drill out holes at home.

If your stocks screws don't drop freely to the steel threaded holes in the receiver, or you cant see a bit of clearance at the rear tang, you are asking for a heartbreak!

You do not want any steel chisels working at splitting your stock each time you fire the weapon.

Which guns have three stock mounting bolts? Wait ... ones with detachable magazine maybe?

What is the "middle recess"? The magazine well?

Both my plains game 30-06 and DGR 404J are bedded with JB Weld pretty much throughout, including around the screws. More so with the latter. Second stock for it was used and fitted for another gun. Some bubba tried to fit it for a specialty trigger using a screwdriver for a chisel so I had to bed it behind the mag box as well as front to fill in the void and strengthen the wood. Adding two crossbolts and a steel pin down through the wrist plus the extra JB Weld pretty much ensures no future "headaches". That action fits together tight! I did relieve the tangs both top and bottom. A very tiny crack had already started behind the upper tang (the stock clearly formerly housed a magnum rifle - the barrel trough was for a heavy profile and no forward sling stud in the stock = barrel mounted sling = African thumper). Best tip I can offer is don't try fitting a used wooden stock to another rifle. It turned out well and is holding up fine but required a lot of thinking outside the box plus extra work. It's a fancy stock so I guess it was worth it.

If properly bedded, the sockets for action screws will be set in bedding. Should be sockets on both the action (threaded) and floorplate (not threaded). Even if the action screws are rubbing against the stock, would there be enough movement to damage anything if the sockets holding the screws on both ends are essentially set in stone?

 

[50Gunner]

OH,

All two piece bottom metal Model 70 Winchesters have three stock mounting screws, the middle screw is for the front of the trigger guard and goes down between a recess in the stock at the rear portion that's cut out for the magazine box, the vaunted pre-64 Model 70's in the larger cartridges are known stock splitters.

You seem to have your rifles well supported, BUT, I'd most certainly let the bedding and cross-bolts do the work, and NOT rely on the stock screws to share in that work load, very easy to drill them to forever free them from any damage they 'could' cause, make those shooting irons failsafe Sir.