Looking for scope recommendation

[Ridgewalker]

I have used and own several VX-5s and old and new models of VX-6. All have worked exceptionally well for me up to my 375 H&H. Not sure why you would want more than a red dot sight on a 458 WM, but everyone is a bit different.
Good luck in your decision!

 

[Hogpatrol]

I love those that think old scopes glass is as good as today's. They're my best customers when I decide to upgrade.

 

[Hogpatrol]

That applies to the cheap goods.

The oldest scope I still have in use is a Kahles Helia Super from the end of the sixties.

Dream on. That glass doesn't hold a candle to the Kahles of today.

 

[rookhawk]

I love those that think old scopes glass is as good as today's. They're my best customers when I decide to upgrade.

Put me in! If your glass has a German accent, I’m just the sucker you need to “dump your junk”.

Seriously, I’m always buying older glass, happy to consider anything you might want to sell.

 

[Hogpatrol]

Put me in! If your glass has a German accent, I’m just the sucker you need to “dump your junk”.

Seriously, I’m always buying older glass, happy to consider anything you might want to sell.

I don't buy or use German glass, overpriced and overrated. You're supporting those workers laboring for a 28 hour workweek. Strictly a status and cachet market. The Japanese stuff is where it's at.

 

[Standard Velocity]

You’re a dude and you’re going on safari... I assume you’re over 35. That means your pupil can max dilate 5.5mm more than likely.

1-4x24 scope at 4x, lets in 6mm of light and your eye can’t use it all. (Assuming good glass and coatings). DG scopes are low light optics and they do great. It’s the high magnifying optics that have the problems.

Exactly.

In high magnification scopes every bit of light is needed. In low magnification scopes there is more available light than you can take advantage of.

One thing I have noticed is older scopes, of high quality, not being able to compete in regards to reflection in the ocular with sun setting behind. Missed a shot at a deer once because all I could see was the reflection of my own eye without cupping my hand around the ocular bell. By the time I was able to overcome the reflection the deer was gone.

 

[Hogpatrol]

Pick one:

https://www.trijicon.com/products/product-family/trijicon-accupoint-TR25

 

[rookhawk]

Exactly.

In high magnification scopes every bit of light is needed. In low magnification scopes there is more available light than you can take advantage of.

One thing I have noticed is older scopes, of high quality, not being able to compete in regards to reflection in the ocular with sun setting behind. Missed a shot at a deer once because all I could see was the reflection of my own eye without cupping my hand around the ocular bell. By the time I was able to overcome the reflection the deer was gone.

Let’s cut to the chase on this great conversation/ thread.

We know what gun you have. We know what you can kill with a 458. We know a 458 is a 150 yard gun. What do you want to spend on a scope? If you throw the group a number we’ll all debate what’s “best” at that market price. I threw you 3 choices from $400-$1600 myself. No one would mock you for putting any of them on a $5000 rifle.

 

[grand veneur]

Dream on. That glass doesn't hold a candle to the Kahles of today.

First , I'm not a dreamer and second , I did not claim that.

 

[Standard Velocity]

Let’s cut to the chase on this great conversation/ thread.

We know what gun you have. We know what you can kill with a 458. We know a 458 is a 150 yard gun. What do you want to spend on a scope? If you throw the group a number we’ll all debate what’s “best” at that market price. I threw you 3 choices from $400-$1600 myself. No one would mock you for putting any of them on a $5000 rifle.

I think you may be mistaken. I am not trying to scope any rifle and have agreed with what you have said up to this point. The original poster may be able to benefit though.

Maybe I’m mistaken that this is an appropriate thread to debate the need for a $3000 low magnification scope.

 

[rookhawk]

I think you may be mistaken. I am not trying to scope any rifle and have agreed with what you have said up to this point. The original poster may be able to benefit though.

Maybe I’m mistaken that this is an appropriate thread to debate the need for a $3000 low magnification scope.

Some pay a fortune for a TRUE 1x so they can shoot with binocular vision...those cost a lot.

You’re probably right. You’re paying for a better reticle and a good rheostat on those $3000 1-4x S&B scopes. Mine came with my 470ne. Not sure I’d buy one.

A 1-6x swaro is so good for $1600 I don’t know why I’d pay more. I’ve bought several used/mint for $1000...hard to beat for a DG rifle or any rifle.

 

[Rule 303]

I love those that think old scopes glass is as good as today's. They're my best customers when I decide to upgrade.

Yiu just keep thinking that way champ. Modern scopes are full of electronics. Guess what is and does fail first. No wonder you have to keep upgrading.

So far the only scopes I know of-personal use and that of friends- where the technology has not failed is Nightforce & Trijacon- can still use then if it fails and Aimpoint.

 

[Rule 303]

I don't buy or use German glass, overpriced and overrated. You're supporting those workers laboring for a 28 hour workweek. Strictly a status and cachet market. The Japanese stuff is where it's at.

Another semi truism. I agree the German glass is over priced, however their top line products are way better than hunting glass from Japan. The other thing the top of line scopes from Euro manufactures tend to have over the Japanese gear is quality and reliability of the internal workings. Personally I rate Nightforce NXS and better models, not the target models -US made- as the most reliable scopes around.

 

[CoElkHunter]

Don’t chastise me too much on this thread, but I’m new to scoping anything recoiling more than my .338 WM? I would like to scope my .375, but not my .458. Anything from Vortex any good? Don’t scream please! Just looking for a less expensive scope than those mentioned here? I know one gets what he pays for, but just asking? Thanks!

 

[Hogpatrol]

Yiu just keep thinking that way champ. Modern scopes are full of electronics. Guess what is and does fail first. No wonder you have to keep upgrading.

So far the only scopes I know of-personal use and that of friends- where the technology has not failed is Nightforce & Trijacon- can still use then if it fails and Aimpoint.

Full of electronics? I thought we were discussing low power variables. Which models have electronics? I have five Trijicons, one has a battery IF you want the reticle lit. The others are tritium powered reticles, no electronics there. The two NXSs I have on hunting rifles have lit reticles but the light isn't necessary to shoot. Money buys you low light and reliable internals. Tests have proven most scopes reticles, even the uber high end ones, move on the first recoil. Run a dual mount scope test you'll see how that works. Then run a tall target test on those same scopes and see if the clicks equate to the actual movement of the POI. I upgrade because glass gets better and for old eyes, I need all the help I can get. YMMV

 

[Rule 303]

Don’t chastise me too much on this thread, but I’m new to scoping anything recoiling more than my .338 WM? I would like to scope my .375, but not my .458. Anything from Vortex any good? Don’t scream please! Just looking for a less expensive scope than those mentioned here? I know one gets what he pays for, but just asking? Thanks!

Sorry if I have given a wrong impression through my replies to Hogpatrol. Although I prefer the top of range euro scopes for glass clarity -this does vary from person to person - and reliability there is a lot of money spent for not much improvement over some middle of the range scopes. Leopold are normally good value as are Nikon, Vortex and most likely others that I have not tried. Lets face it I could not afford the Euro scopes till my kids were gone and I would have lost a lot of animals if it wasn't for my old Weaver true trac scope and some Loopy's. All I can advise is get the best you can comfortably afford and that works for you.

For a 375 I would look for something in the 1-6 variable range.

 

[Hogpatrol]

Don't try this with your S&B, Swarovski or other Euro scopes.

DG where one's life depends on it, this is my choice. YMMV.

Or this:

 

[Rule 303]

Full of electronics? I thought we were discussing low power variables. Which models have electronics? I have five Trijicons, one has a battery IF you want the reticle lit. The others are tritium powered reticles, no electronics there. The two NXSs I have on hunting rifles have lit reticles but the light isn't necessary to shoot. Money buys you low light and reliable internals. Tests have proven most scopes reticles, even the uber high end ones, move on the first recoil. Run a dual mount scope test you'll see how that works. Then run a tall target test on those same scopes and see if the clicks equate to the actual movement of the POI. I upgrade because glass gets better and for old eyes, I need all the help I can get. YMMV

I like your choice of scopes. Low powered scopes with electronics in them, Leupold, Zeiss, Kahles, Vortex, Nikon to name a few.

yep my high-end scopes click adjustments are consistent. That is X number of clicks doing the square and back where I started.

As for older eyes, yep I need all the help I can get.

 

[Hogpatrol]

@Rule 303, I do have a few Sightron, Leupold and Burris scopes, albeit not the lower end stuff. I perceive them to be good value for the money and where I'm not needing bulletproof as in hunting away from home.

 

[Milan]

I've got 2 rifles in 505 Gibbs, one has an old VX3 1-5. Great eye relief, not illuminated. The other has a Trijicon 1-4 with the green triangle. Great close range scope and on 1x functions like a red dot. Both have held up to the recoil. If your overly susceptible to scope eye, stay away from the Trijicon. Many people have shot mine with no issues, except for @Royal27 , but he was shooting a right handed guns, left handed

I second the Trijocon 1-4 with green triangle. The triangle can be used as a "big" dot up close for fast aiming and the tip of the triangle for more precise shots. I also had a VXR 1.25-4 Leupold for firedot reticle which I had changed to firedot cricle or firedot ballistic reticle. The circle is great for fast aiming and the dot really focuses your point of aim.