Mauser Purchase

[C.W. Richter]

I'd say they're machine made but still require fitting.

German Claw Mount Front Ring 1" / 26mm, German Claw Mount | New England Custom Gun Service, Ltd.

"Each rings comes with a semi-fit front base plate. Gunsmithing required."

Precisely what I'd suggest-talk to NECG in NH!

 

[CD24]

It is pretty ugly but you could change optics easily. I could see the utility if you were actually going to use it.

That is so coyote ugly it is bordering desecration!

 

[Red Leg]

It is pretty ugly but you could change optics easily. I could see the utility if you were actually going to use it.

Sorry, I don't get it at all. Particularly on something elegant like a drilling. Simply have a proper set of rings made and fitted to the bases. Dedicate a scope to it like any other rifle. Just looks like an abomination.

 

[CD24]

Sorry, I don't get it at all. Particularly on something elegant like a drilling. Simply have a proper set of rings made and fitted to the bases. Dedicate a scope to it like any other rifle. Just looks like an abomination.

it is awful, but a drilling or combination gun would be a legendary predator gun if you put a scope on for before dark and a thermal for night shooting. I have considered it many times for some pesky coyotes and bobcats that seem to come out from all directions and distances.

 

[Red Leg]

Precisely what I'd suggest-talk to NECG in NH!

I assume they could indeed do the job. Over the years, JJ Perodeau has fitted claw rings for three of my rifles (including a rear single hook Mannlicher Schounauer), two double rifles, and three combination guns. https://jjperodeau.com/ His work is uniformly perfect.

An additional note. A straight tube scope is the way to go. Most modern rail scopes are too short to fit older claw bases, and a large objective on a standard scope will normally require a special front ring around the objective (think very expensive and problematic on modern alloy scope bodies).

 

[Red Leg]

it is awful, but a drilling or combination gun would be a legendary predator gun if you put a scope on for before dark and a thermal for night shooting. I have considered it many times for some pesky coyotes and bobcats that seem to come out from all directions and distances.

Good point. Both in Germany and in Virginia, I used a drilling quite a bit as a multi-species gun. When doing that, I normally had a .22 mag insert barrel fitted as well. Never tried a thermal.

At least it would be dark and no one could see what you had done to a fine gun.

 

[VertigoBE]

That is so coyote ugly it is bordering desecration!

I actually had been thinking about something similar for some time:

Most rifles with claw mount bases, when you want to mount a red dot, you will fix it only on the rear. But I was wondering if a thin strip of steel, with the forward and rear claws just like on a scope, would not be a better solution. Especially because of two reasons :
- the red dot is no longer fixed on only one point, but two.
- instead of having the full mount of rear claws+receptacle mount for the red dot all stacked on each other, the strip could have a bend downwards after the front claws, then bend back upwards for the rear claws, thus lowering height over bore of the red dot.

I think the idea from the video, as a proof of concept has some true merit. Just think away all the picatinny rail, and no parts sticking out. Then the red dot a bit more forward, between the two claw mounts, removing the pic rail clamps, but directly on the (non-pic) rail with integrated red dot footprint.

Think a modern Zeiss or swaro rail mount without the optic, and with the dedicated red dot floor plate.

 

[Red Leg]

I actually had been thinking about something similar for some time:

Most rifles with claw mount bases, when you want to mount a red dot, you will fix it only on the rear. But I was wondering if a thin strip of steel, with the forward and rear claws just like on a scope, would not be a better solution. Especially because of two reasons :
- the red dot is no longer fixed on only one point, but two.
- instead of having the full mount of rear claws+receptacle mount for the red dot all stacked on each other, the strip could have a bend downwards after the front claws, then bend back upwards for the rear claws, thus lowering height over bore of the red dot.

I think the idea from the video, as a proof of concept has some true merit. Just think away all the picatinny rail, and no parts sticking out. Then the red dot a bit more forward, between the two claw mounts, removing the pic rail clamps, but directly on the (non-pic) rail with integrated red dot footprint.

Think a modern Zeiss or swaro rail mount without the optic, and with the dedicated red dot floor plate.

I suspect that would work. I just don't have a caliber that I would want to use with a red dot. My 9.3x74R double rifle and double rifle drilling shoot 4 shot LxR/LxR groups into two and a half inches at 100 yards. Both barrels on each gun are MOA, so I sight in the scope on the right barrel and have first shot accuracy to PB range of the particular load. My drillings are in rifle calibers that benefit from a scope. Perhaps an older drilling in something like a 9.3x72R (more or less 30 30 capability) would be right choice for a red dot?

 

[VertigoBE]

I suspect that would work. I just don't have a caliber that I would want to use with a red dot. My 9.3x74R double rifle and double rifle drilling shoot 4 shot LxR/LxR groups into two and a half inches at 100 yards. Both barrels on each gun are MOA, so I sight in the scope on the right barrel and have first shot accuracy to PB range of the particular load. My drillings are in rifle calibers that benefit from a scope. Perhaps an older drilling in something like a 9.3x72R (more or less 30 30 capability) would be right choice for a red dot?

I was actually more thinking about mid bore double rifles for DG that could benefit from both a full 1-6 or 2-10 scope and a backup red dot for close encounters for those that do not like to use iron sights. (I never leaned how to use irons)

 

[Red Leg]

I was actually more thinking about mid bore double rifles for DG that could benefit from both a full 1-6 or 2-10 scope and a backup red dot for close encounters for those that do not like to use iron sights. (I never leaned how to use irons)

I suppose. But why not simply use a quality 1x6 scope with an illuminated reticle? It does the same thing in a single package that doesn't have to be switched. Indeed, because of the quality of the lens on say a Swaro or Leica, it will be superior to a red dot both in clarity and field of view in that close encounter scenario.

 

[Brian Rothhammer]

I truly appreciate the insight. I will check on the rings. He knew I was looking for a mauser to convert to 9.6x62. I am not sure if this is the right project rifle.

Though I am more familiar with Mannlicher Schoenauers, I agree completely with Red Leg's assessments and advice.

Your father absolutely 'stole' that at $300!

It may have been 'sporterized' by guild craftsmen or a skilled individual during the interwar period on a WW1 surplus rifle.

I would absolutely not rebore or reballel it if it were mine. In my opinion that rifle deserves to have a vintage scope set on fitted claw mount rings (they were all hand fitted 'back in the day'). Vintage European scopes show up on Ebay rather often, though pricey and mounting must be done by an expert with considerable claw mounting experience.

Considering the low cost of admission ($300), you'll still not have overspent and will have an authentic 'period piece' as well as a very fine continental sporting rifle.

An alternative would be to simply leave it as it is and enjoy with iron sights.

You'll also likely take up reloading if you haven't already, which is an additionally rewarding experience.,

My M1910 Mannlicher Schoenauer wears the Gerard 'B' and claw mounts that were on it when Grand Dad bought it 'second hand' in Ceylon,1931.

 

[Brian Rothhammer]

Looks like $1000. That is rough.

New England Custom Guns (NECG) produces these (in at least two sizes) to be custom machined or filed to match your bases.

Or, if you have the considerable luck to find a vintage scope with the same spacing and centering between claw mount rings, you may be able to modify or replace the bases in the dovetails already present on your rifle. This would, however, be rather unlikely as each was hand fitted 'back in the day' on the workbench of one of many independent 'guild' craftsmen.

Examples of claw mounts

Bases:

NECG claw mount for Mannlicher Schoenauer
Note offset rear base, different than mount for Mauser

From a Worthpoint (sold) listing, described as 'reproduction'.
Rear bottom mount looks like yours with 'see through' groove.


Vintage:

Note the 'see through' feature which allows use of iron sights with scope mounted.
A desirable feature if you don't mind having a high mounted scope.


Mauser with front release claw mount:

Old School:

Recent:

This is by Dorleac & Dorleac of France, on a Mannlicher Schoenauer. Their craftsmanship is phenomenal.

Three photos to illustrate the Mauser scope claw mounting procedure with transverse fastening integrated in rear square bridge.
DORLEAC

Ziegler ZP:

'Vienna Snapper':

The 'Vienna Snapper' was used during the same time period as claw mounts and uses a pinch release rather than button release.

Base for 'snapper':

 

[Fallschirmjaeger]

Your father absolutely 'stole' that at $300!

It may have been 'sporterized' by guild craftsmen or a skilled individual during the interwar period on a WW1 surplus rifle.

I'm fairly certain that if it has "Mod. 98" on the side rail it's WWII, which would put it's sporter conversion sometime post-war.... I'm just guessing but I would wager the 50s. Also fairly evident based on the styling of the stock.

 

[Brian Rothhammer]

I'm fairly certain that if it has "Mod. 98" on the side rail it's WWII, which would put it's sporter conversion sometime post-war.... I'm just guessing but I would wager the 50s. Also fairly evident based on the styling of the stock.

Shows what I (don't) know about military Mausers and their dates,
When did that start?

I have some knowledge of the military Mannlicher Schoenauers. Mausers; not so much.

 

[Fallschirmjaeger]

I believe it depends on the maker. There were many rifle factories during the war. Typically WWI German military rifles were marked Gew. 98 denoting the "Gewehr 98" large ring version of the Mauser rifle. But this is a general and over simplified guideline...when it comes to military contracts there is all kinds of variations and I'm no expert.

I will say this, just from what I've noticed over the years, the interwar years seemed to maintain a classical prewar Germanic styling with regards to sporter rifles, but after WWII they sadly seemed to evolve more into an Americanized style with straighter combs for scopes, less Schnabel forends, etc. I assume that's because much of the sales were for GIs bringing rifles home to the states to hunt with and they probably all wanted something that looked like a Model 70. Again that's just my opinion based on my observations. I prefer the classical German styles. Octagon ribbed barrels, svelte light half stocks, horn accents, double set triggers, etc.

 

[roverandbrew]

I am super appreciative of the insight you guys are bringing. Would I "assume" since "mod 98" is engraved on the side then its post WW1 and 8x57 Mauser (.323)?

 

[Fallschirmjaeger]

Most likely but you never know until you slug the bore. Any chance you can get a picture of any marks under the chamber?

 

[roverandbrew]

Does this help?

 

[roverandbrew]

Pic 1

 

[roverandbrew]