My first 375 H&H... What do I have?

[CZDiesel]

So I am a avid hunter as we all are and I have a small collection of Winchester rifles. I saw and had to have a 1950 Winchester M70 in 375 H&H that my local Scheels had. It’s in mint condition and looks like it has never really been used!
I was thinking of putting a Leupold scope and QD rings on it but that is where I’m getting a little lost. In doing some research I find that this rifle is in what is call a “Transition Rifle” post WWII? If I’m reading right? It’s ser# is 167,xxx
The rifle has a smooth rear bridge with two D&T holes on its left side, and two D&T holes on the front bridge, and one D&T hole on its rear bridge...
Now in looking on some collector sites they say H&H transition receivers with smooth rear bridges should not be tapped, others say that the factory would do it if requested? Most all say that a lot of H&H receivers were D&T by the local smith and had scopes mounted. This rifle has identical and correct looking plugs in the mount holes? The receive bridge ones match the side drilling ones.
So I’m hoping someone on here might have some insight onto what is correct and what isn’t? And the big question is am I ruining value by scoping it or even adding a second tap to the rear bridge?

 

[sestoppelman]

It doesnt matter. You bought it, shoot it, scoped or not. If you want to get into the details, find a copy of Roger Rules Winchester model 70 book, all the info is there.

 

[BeeMaa]

Always a good idea to have a qualified gunsmith look over a used gun, check headspace and all the other "normal" stuff before heading to the range. At the end of the day the rifle was sold for a reason and without knowing the previous owner...I would not be likely to trust it. Small price to pay for a little assurance when you pull the trigger.

 

[Luvthunt]

I may be mistaken but I believe Redfield made one piece scope bases that had two screw holes in the front and only one in the back for the screw pattern of your 1950 M 70.

 

[Graham Hunter]

I may be mistaken but I believe Redfield made one piece scope bases that had two screw holes in the front and only one in the back for the screw pattern of your 1950 M 70.

You are correct. The same base can still be purchased through Leupold.

 

[Joker12]

The rifle that you have without the rear reciever bridge tapped is correct. If you have it D/T it would reduce the resale value a bit but make it more usable. While you have that done also glass the recoil lug recess and have a crossbolt or 2 put in. They are notorious for cracking the stock just behind the tang. With those things done it will be perfect!

 

[Luvthunt]

the two D&T holes on the left side were for a receiver sight. I used a Lyman 57 on the one I had.
Most bolt actions of that vintage were D&T for a receiver sight. Scopes in that time frame of 1950 were just starting to become popular.

 

[Joker12]

If you want to keep it original but still scope it there were bases made that use the holes on the side of the reciever. They were mane by B&L and Kuharski. You would have to search a bit for one, gunsinternational is a good place to search. I have installed and used them and they work very well.

 

[Graham Hunter]

My 270 came with the side/top mount and scope. The front ring is stamped U14 and the rear is U10. No name or markings on the scope. Interesting in that the scope and mounts are one unit. You can loosen the rings at the top only to slide the scope back and forth and turn so the crosshairs are vertical.
You cannot remove the scope by itself.

 

[Joker12]

My 270 came with the side/top mount and scope. The front ring is stamped U14 and the rear is U10. No name or markings on the scope. Interesting in that the scope and mounts are one unit. You can loosen the rings at the top only to slide the scope back and forth and turn so the crosshairs are vertical.
You cannot remove the scope by itself.

The B/L and Kuharski system are 2 piece and allow the top piece and scope to be removed and put on another rifle with a base very easily. I believe the thinking was bases are inexpensive but scopes not. That way one scope could be easily interchanged with multiple rifles. Also the adjustments for windage and elevation were made on the base and not the scope. Pretty neat system.

 

[Graham Hunter]

My scope is adjustable.

 

[Sabattiboy]

I am always reluctant to modify unless it makes no difference one way or the other.
If I buy to use, I use. Occasionally I stumble onto something that is supposed to have collector value but my personal experience being that I couldn't sell a $100 bill for $50 while other guys can sell a $50 bill for $100. So if it is mine I do what I need to get what I want from it and move on.
Oh yeah, there is always the guy that says, OMG It would have been worth $10 million if you had just not added that D&T hole.

 

[sestoppelman]

Shoot it!

 

[John Telford]

I put a red dot (sitemark) on my 1948 model M70 and it shoots fine.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

If it was mine I would drill and tap the hole and put a set Talley bases on it.

 

[fourfive8]

What do you have? A Winchester Model 70 in a very desirable caliber made in ca 1950. If the bore is good and the headspace is good- you have a winner! If it were mine I'd admire it, pamper it, clean it, study it then shoot it! You describe a fairly standard D&T hole pattern for the Model 70. The two holes on the left side of the rear receiver ring sound like standard D&T holes for mounting a receiver sight- Redfield or Lyman would be my guess. On top- the two in front and one in rear sounds like standard pattern for one piece base for scope mounting- Redfield/Leupold. Poke around the net for one of those one peice bridge mounts (two hole in front and one hole in rear) with rings by either Redfield or Leupold for Winchester Model 70 Mag action. Make sure the hole spacing is correct. Mount your favorite scope then shoot it!

 

[CZDiesel]

Thank you everyone for your replies! Such a good community here!

@fourfive8 The bore is in like new condition with no pitting and the rifling looks as sharp as one just taken out of the box! I will put a head space gauge to it but I’m sure it’s fine. The bolt lock up is as tight or tighter than any of my Super Grades. I’m very excited now about the purchase and truly believe this is a rifle that sat in someones family for 70 years but was never shot! It’s that clean!
Maybe I’ll pamper it and have LeRoy Barry restock it lol

Thank you everyone for your input and if there is any others that have an opinion please comment!

 

[CoElkHunter]

So I am a avid hunter as we all are and I have a small collection of Winchester rifles. I saw and had to have a 1950 Winchester M70 in 375 H&H that my local Scheels had. It’s in mint condition and looks like it has never really been used!
I was thinking of putting a Leupold scope and QD rings on it but that is where I’m getting a little lost. In doing some research I find that this rifle is in what is call a “Transition Rifle” post WWII? If I’m reading right? It’s ser# is 167,xxx
The rifle has a smooth rear bridge with two D&T holes on its left side, and two D&T holes on the front bridge, and one D&T hole on its rear bridge...
Now in looking on some collector sites they say H&H transition receivers with smooth rear bridges should not be tapped, others say that the factory would do it if requested? Most all say that a lot of H&H receivers were D&T by the local smith and had scopes mounted. This rifle has identical and correct looking plugs in the mount holes? The receive bridge ones match the side drilling ones.
So I’m hoping someone on here might have some insight onto what is correct and what isn’t? And the big question is am I ruining value by scoping it or even adding a second tap to the rear bridge?View attachment 422236

Cuando mucho?

 

[CZDiesel]

@CoElkHunter

Hunter are you saying that “at the most” I’d be hurting the rifles value by D&T another hole?

 

[deewayne2003]

If it was mine I would drill and tap the hole and put a set Talley bases on it.

I would do as stated above but perhaps go up one size in the tap for all holes for larger base screws, mount the bases and be done with it.

Then you have the best of both worlds; old school craft and machining with modern mounts and optic.