typilotguy
AH veteran
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2020
- Messages
- 102
- Reaction score
- 229
- Location
- East Tennessee
- Media
- 4
- Member of
- Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation
- Hunted
- United States, South Africa
My dad used to do all the euro/skull mounts for a taxidermist friend of ours. Said friend was just too busy doing shoulder mounts, so he essentially sublet the skulls to dad.
At any rate, on occassion, customers would bring skulls that had been broken (roadkills, the dog got ahold of, even head shots). To fix these, after cleaning/boiling/bleaching, dad would use Loctite two part epoxy, the 5-minute variety. This works quite well. The rapid set time works well for these, as you can just hold the pieces together. Because of the odd shapes and curves of skulls, glue/epoxy with longer set times is difficult to use, as you cannot use C-Clamps or clips as you would on nice, square workpieces.
Should the epoxy well out on the "outside" surfaces that you can see, you have a couple of options. The first would be to sand it off. If, however, the skull is a little soft, as you mentioned, this would not be ideal. In this case you can actually paint the skull a white or off white. This will give a natural appearance.
Another safeguard for furture breaks is also suprizingly simple. You can go over the complete skull with some varnish/lacquer. Sheen is your choice, but I think a matte looks the most natural. This strengthens the integrity of the skull itself.
At any rate, on occassion, customers would bring skulls that had been broken (roadkills, the dog got ahold of, even head shots). To fix these, after cleaning/boiling/bleaching, dad would use Loctite two part epoxy, the 5-minute variety. This works quite well. The rapid set time works well for these, as you can just hold the pieces together. Because of the odd shapes and curves of skulls, glue/epoxy with longer set times is difficult to use, as you cannot use C-Clamps or clips as you would on nice, square workpieces.
Should the epoxy well out on the "outside" surfaces that you can see, you have a couple of options. The first would be to sand it off. If, however, the skull is a little soft, as you mentioned, this would not be ideal. In this case you can actually paint the skull a white or off white. This will give a natural appearance.
Another safeguard for furture breaks is also suprizingly simple. You can go over the complete skull with some varnish/lacquer. Sheen is your choice, but I think a matte looks the most natural. This strengthens the integrity of the skull itself.