Packing house steels

[bruce moulds]

since von gruff brought to my attention smooth seals as opposed to what I am used to, ribbed ones, I have been studying them.
there exists a steel called a packing house steel which is smooth.
most steel makers offer a choice of rib sizes, or finenesses, but not all a smooth one.
my 2 steels are very fine ribbed, one I bought many years ago, and one I won in a shooting competition.
with use they have become less aggressive in the flutes.
I recall being told when I was young that old steels are the best steels, obviously because they are nearer to smooth than new ones.
then I read that guys using packing house steels are rubbing the rod with different grades of sand paper to introduce very fine flutes, each guy with a different preference for the grit of abrasive.
I suppose that while finer is better, the most important aspect of steels is best using technique, and using when required.
the interesting journey continues.
since I have been trying to use a steel with more technique, not expecting it to remove metal like a stone,, I have been keeping an aus 8 pocket knife surprisingly sharp.
I consider aus 8 to be an inferior steel for cheap knives, but it is certainly a different knife now.
bruce.

 

[Ridgewalker]

Originally steels were used to only polish blades and didn’t remove any material. They smoothed out the “grind” lines from stoning. Today the ceramic, Diamond coated, etc. actually remove material again leaving “grind” lines. As long as you use the polishing steel before cutting with the knife, the sharpness will last a very long time.
Example: my wife refuses to hand wash her fancy kitchen knives, ugh, irritating! I usually take them out of the dishwasher, steel them and put them away (magnetic holder). They stay sharp for probably a year with her casual use in the kitchen.
JMO&E

 

[Standard Velocity]

Originally steels were used to only polish blades and didn’t remove any material. They smoothed out the “grind” lines from stoning. Today the ceramic, Diamond coated, etc. actually remove material again leaving “grind” lines. As long as you use the polishing steel before cutting with the knife, the sharpness will last a very long time.
Example: my wife refuses to hand wash her fancy kitchen knives, ugh, irritating! I usually take them out of the dishwasher, steel them and put them away (magnetic holder). They stay sharp for probably a year with her casual use in the kitchen.
JMO&E

Dull knives are a big pet peeve. I cook a lot and keep a small toolbox of sharp knives in the truck.

My better half gave one of her friends the same 6” Shun chefs knife I had given her since its small and nimble. It’ll do about anything but the VG10 steel and steep grind make it chip prone. If you keep it honed it’s pretty good.

We were at her friend’s house and I needed a knife to make snacks for the kids and I see a gray handled knife. Shun makes all manner of special additions that are basically handle upgrades. I think “wow she must have liked that knife enough to go out and by another one”. Nope. It had spent so much time in the dishwasher the wooden handle had bleached from black to grey. Dull enough to let the kids play with it. More of a pointy spatula.

 

[Standard Velocity]

since von gruff brought to my attention smooth seals as opposed to what I am used to, ribbed ones, I have been studying them.
there exists a steel called a packing house steel which is smooth.
most steel makers offer a choice of rib sizes, or finenesses, but not all a smooth one.
my 2 steels are very fine ribbed, one I bought many years ago, and one I won in a shooting competition.
with use they have become less aggressive in the flutes.
I recall being told when I was young that old steels are the best steels, obviously because they are nearer to smooth than new ones.
then I read that guys using packing house steels are rubbing the rod with different grades of sand paper to introduce very fine flutes, each guy with a different preference for the grit of abrasive.
I suppose that while finer is better, the most important aspect of steels is best using technique, and using when required.
the interesting journey continues.
since I have been trying to use a steel with more technique, not expecting it to remove metal like a stone,, I have been keeping an aus 8 pocket knife surprisingly sharp.
I consider aus 8 to be an inferior steel for cheap knives, but it is certainly a different knife now.
bruce.

I’ve used many different steels. The smooth packing house steels are becoming more popular with knife enthusiasts. They are the least aggressive and really do allow you to hone the edge. A steel should only need to realign the rolled over edge.

Grooved steels are essentially a straight file. I’ve never noticed that they remove any steel but they will grab at a chipped edge and either realign the chip or break it off. We are talking about very fine chips that usually require a magnifying glass to see but can be felt as a rough texture if you run your finger over the edge. My favorite steel is an older English one that’s half fine grooves and half smooth.

The fine ceramic rods are nice to maintain cheaper knives. The cheap steel in them is not going to keep a fine edge so taking a little steel off the edge generally makes them more serviceable more quickly.

I worked with a butcher a long time ago who used a small boning knife for most things. It had worn down to a needle because he honed it while working (20 or 30 times a day). It was an inexpensive Dexter. Not fancy but darned effective.

 

[CBH Australia]

I have owned a few steels, many factory butcher and chef knives.
I have a small lightish steel with a fine cut and a polished surface. It’s square so opposing sides match
An F.Dick made one.
I generally get a decent sharp edge on a fine stone freehand, I can steel them up ok. I might not sure my edges have ever been keen enough to get much benefit of the polishing steel or strop.
They are sharp, sharp enough but I think a consistent angle achieved on a scary sharp, Lanksy etc with fine stones will last longer, pending blade material etc.
I’ve seen larger versions sold as polishing steels, I’m sure they work, maybe a little wear on them and they would be more beneficial to the less experienced, I never see a butcher with a polished steel

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

since von gruff brought to my attention smooth seals as opposed to what I am used to, ribbed ones, I have been studying them.
there exists a steel called a packing house steel which is smooth.
most steel makers offer a choice of rib sizes, or finenesses, but not all a smooth one.
my 2 steels are very fine ribbed, one I bought many years ago, and one I won in a shooting competition.
with use they have become less aggressive in the flutes.
I recall being told when I was young that old steels are the best steels, obviously because they are nearer to smooth than new ones.
then I read that guys using packing house steels are rubbing the rod with different grades of sand paper to introduce very fine flutes, each guy with a different preference for the grit of abrasive.
I suppose that while finer is better, the most important aspect of steels is best using technique, and using when required.
the interesting journey continues.
since I have been trying to use a steel with more technique, not expecting it to remove metal like a stone,, I have been keeping an aus 8 pocket knife surprisingly sharp.
I consider aus 8 to be an inferior steel for cheap knives, but it is certainly a different knife now.
bruce.

@bruce moulds
Mate I have 2 steels 1 is an old f.dick oval stick that I've had since my old butchering days back in the late 70s.
It as smooth as a baby's bum. When I got it it had a fine rib that was sanded down to almost smooth by me.
The other is a very fine oval diamond stick. I use this to keep a very keen edge on all my blades.
The f.dick has seen that much use it is magnetized.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Originally steels were used to only polish blades and didn’t remove any material. They smoothed out the “grind” lines from stoning. Today the ceramic, Diamond coated, etc. actually remove material again leaving “grind” lines. As long as you use the polishing steel before cutting with the knife, the sharpness will last a very long time.
Example: my wife refuses to hand wash her fancy kitchen knives, ugh, irritating! I usually take them out of the dishwasher, steel them and put them away (magnetic holder). They stay sharp for probably a year with her casual use in the kitchen.
JMO&E

@Ridgewalker
It is my belief that washing a sharp knife in a disagreement washer actually bluntens knives. We had to sterilize our butcher knives in hot blasts of water and they seemed to come out blunter than they went in.
Von Gruff may like to enlighten us.
Bob

 

[Newboomer]

My Father- in Law, who was an old time butcher, said to never, ever put a sharp knife in a dishwasher. It will ruin the edge. Just wash with warm soapy water and rinse in warm water and dry. I have a couple of his old steels that are almost perfectly smooth and one that is smooth from use. Some of his knives are worn down to less than half size. Chicago Cutlery circa 1920s.

 

[CBH Australia]

I suggest that you old blokes are right. My father in law also worked in butchering and then Slaughtering

He said the same for using hot water to clean knives while processing.

My Mrs puts her Victorinox kitchen knives through the dishwasher but what can I do,

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

I suggest that you old blokes are right. My father in law also worked in butchering and then Slaughtering

He said the same for using hot water to clean knives while processing.

My Mrs puts her Victorinox kitchen knives through the dishwasher but what can I do,

@CBH Australia
Chris you could try educating her. If she's like mine an impossible task, or you can get A Ken Onion knife sharpener. Takes 5 min to sharpen them again.
Bob

 

[nztimb]

@Ridgewalker
It is my belief that washing a sharp knife in a disagreement washer actually bluntens knives. We had to sterilize our butcher knives in hot blasts of water and they seemed to come out blunter than they went in.
Von Gruff may like to enlighten us.
Bob

I use warm water and a cloth to clean a bloody/ fatty blade wiping toward the edge and only use the hot water on the spine of the blade so the retained heat will dry the steel more than any drying cloth will and prevent any rust starting. I never use oil on the blade and some of mine are many (many) years old. There is evidence of some incedents here blood was left long enough to leave its reminder but never had any rust although we are in a very low humidity climate