Recoil reducers

What are the possible problems with travel you are referring to?
I’ve added mercury recoil reducers to two stocks with good success. That said, I wouldn’t do it again because of the hazards associated with mercury and possible problems with travel. I sold these rifles quite a while ago.

Tungsten beads (TSS) is a really good option and there are a couple of manufacturers who offer these. Sadly, it’s not often easily adaptable to firearms other than the one it was intended for. My wife has a Blaser Kickstop on her Intuition and likes it. I also had one in my PH stock.

I have no personal experience with the Edwards Recoil Reducer but hear nothing but good things about them.
 
What are the possible problems with travel you are referring to?
There are restrictions on airline travel with mercury. Specifically, you are allowed to have a mercury thermometer in your checked luggage and it must be in a protective case. Larger quantities of mercury (for instance a weather barometer) require special approval. Of course a mercury recoil reducer would be much more than what's in a weather barometer or thermometer.

I'm not saying that we should all automatically volunteer that we have a mercury recoil reducer in our stocks, but when it goes through X-ray and they see something...gonna be hard to get around those questions. Whether it happens when you are leaving on your trip or returning, it's going to complicate your travel plans considerably if you want to keep the rifle.

Have I traveled with a mercury recoil reducer, knowing that it's illegal? Yes, several times. Would I do it again? No. There are too many better alternatives that don't involve the hassle of dealing with hazmat.

Mechanical (like Edwards, Dead Mule, Falcon Strike...etc) or tungsten beads would be the best options. Obviously lead is an option and there aren't any current restrictions on it, but it's a good idea to have it in a sealed container of copper or stainless steel and bedded in the forend or butt of the stock.

Currently only my wife's rifle has the Blaser Kickstop recoil reducer that's a stainless steel tube with tungsten shot inside. If I ever move up to a 416RM or 458LOTT, that's what I'll be using as well. And yes, I look up the specific airline rules for these and have them printed out in the event there are any questions.

Anyone else remember the days when your parents or grandparents had a bottle of mercury sitting on the shelf in the shop? I sure as hell do.
 
As pointed out, Mercury is a scam in that it doesn't really work any better than any other object of weight.

Nonetheless, I recommend a mercury recoil reducer because they are in a smooth cylinder that can be properly anchored in the stock. Do not use lead or other items that oxidize, in time they expand in volume through oxidation and crack the stock.

Any vendor of mercury recoil reducers is as good as the next. Remove your butt pad and measure the depth and diameter of your hole. Select slightly under that diameter so you can wrap tape on the tube to friction fit it.
 
I don't see silencers mentioned here. I haven't tried muzzle breakers, but according to my gun pusher a silencer is almost as good as a muzzlebreak. I have ordered a A-Tec H3, size .458 where one can take off modules when hunting. (Have an R8 rifle so not very long all in all.)
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I've used brakes (American precision Arms) on my small caliber PRS rifles in 308 and 6.5--used for less muzzle movement to watch impact and get a
I recently bought an older Remington in 300WM that the owner had Mag-na-ported. I had not shot this rifle until last week and noted the it seemed no louder than my non braked 308 or 3006 as I was shooting them side by side off of sticks. No blast wave with it either. Maybe Larry Kelly was a little ahead of his time....Just an observation to share.
 
I use a suppressor on my big bores. Bowers makes one that will handle the Lott. The suppressor is better than a brake
 
I use a suppressor on my big bores. Bowers makes one that will handle the Lott. The suppressor is better than a brake
I will say that a suppressor is at least more considerate to others than a brake. However, the added length and weight contribute to an awkward balance on a rifle. IMO, suppressors are best used from fixed hunting positions like predator and varmint pursuits or hunting from a blind. This will negate the rifle balance problem.
 
I have 2 of the Bell & Carlson stocks with the recoil reducers installed by them; on each my 416 Ruger Alaskan and 416 Ruger Africa. Works great on them.
 
Also, I forgot I have a Edwards recoil reducer installed in my Ruger No 1 in 458 Lott that my son shoots. It helps tame that brute, making it almost enjoyable to shoot. Flown all around the US with it, and a trip to Africa as well. Never had an issue with TSA or airport security in RSA.
 
Mercury reducers are simply an expensive weight. They use fake science to sell them. I used lead in some old 458 cases and an appropriate sized drill to add weight. A good recoil pad with nice rounded corners is also good. Some pads are oddly shaped with sharp corners and they leave a mark. Also very important is balance- barrel or butt heavy causes the rifle to rise rapidly in recoil. I find balancing at the magazine makes recoil more straight back.
Agreed. Tungsten insert in the fore end can help balance lead in the stock, to maintain that correct balance point, really needed for big bore rifles.
Limbsavers are good, but I prefer the classic look and mounting of the Pachmayer D752B Decelerator, and it noticeably helps reduce the sting of recoil.
 
As pointed out, Mercury is a scam in that it doesn't really work any better than any other object of weight.

Nonetheless, I recommend a mercury recoil reducer because they are in a smooth cylinder that can be properly anchored in the stock. Do not use lead or other items that oxidize, in time they expand in volume through oxidation and crack the stock.

Any vendor of mercury recoil reducers is as good as the next. Remove your butt pad and measure the depth and diameter of your hole. Select slightly under that diameter so you can wrap tape on the tube to friction fit it.
As I previously posted, about 40 years ago I routed out a channel in the forend of my Browning Citori 12 ga and poured molten lead into it for a weight balance when shooting it without the smaller gauge tubes. Since then I've had to put a couple of wraps of tape around that lead plug to keep it from rattling in the stock.
 
i used two 6" long tungsten rods, 0.3125" diameter, in my 495 Asquare. It came as 12" length, my gunsmith said he would cut them again and he hates boring holes that long in a wooden stock.
Anyhow, I like the balance they give and the rifle feels "solid" to me.
 

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schwerpunkt88 wrote on Robmill70's profile.
Morning Rob, Any feeling for how the 300 H&H shoots? How's the barrel condition?
 
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