Reloading Nickel vs Brass Cases

[Goat416]

Reloading Nickel-Plated vs. Brass Cases: Which Do You Prefer?

I have a large number of nickel-plated cases in magnum calibers that I'm considering reloading. While I’ve reloaded for years, I have limited experience with larger dangerous game calibers and none with nickel-plated cases. I’ve encountered mixed opinions on the pros and cons of reloading nickel-plated cases, so I’m hoping to hear from those who have experience with both brass and nickel-plated cases, especially in DG calibers.

In addition to general insights on these two case types, I'd love to know more about:

• Any differences you’ve noticed in the reloading process itself,
• The relative lifespan of each type,
• Whether nickel-plated cases seem to be harder on your dies,
• And if the wear signs for nickel differ significantly from brass.

Are there any additional factors or tips you’d recommend when working with nickel-plated cases?

 

[Longwalker]

I have reloaded many nickel plated cases in cartridges like .222, 7mm-08, .308, 30-06, 7x64 .35 Whelen etc. but nothing larger.
Mostly, it is just the same as regular all-brass cases. clean, lube, resize, load and shoot.
I did find it a bit harder on the cutters of my case trimmer. Seems to dull them sooner. Carbide cutters work better than carbon steel when trimming plated brass.
When resizing, a small series of burrs may develop in the loading die, which is actually flakes of nickel sticking to the shoulder/neck junction of the die. Happens more when resizing newly trimmed cases. This may scratch the necks of the resized cases. I thought I had ruined my dies, and the scratches were annoying until I learned to clean the dies once in a while. But this stuff is easily cleaned out with a bore cleaning brush wrapped in a little fine steel wool and chucked in an electric drill.
Lifespan is the same in my experience. The only early failures I had was when trying to expand nickel plated 30-06 to .35 Whelen dimensions. If I annealed the case necks first, no problem.
My cases are almost always retired when the primer pockets expand too much to hold the primer snugly. I have found no difference in that limit to case life with nickel plated cases.

 

[Sarg]

I have reloaded many nickel plated cases in cartridges like .222, 7mm-08, .308, 30-06, 7x64 .35 Whelen etc. but nothing larger.
Mostly, it is just the same as regular all-brass cases. clean, lube, resize, load and shoot.
I did find it a bit harder on the cutters of my case trimmer. Seems to dull them sooner. Carbide cutters work better than carbon steel when trimming plated brass.
When resizing, a small series of burrs may develop in the loading die, which is actually flakes of nickel sticking to the shoulder/neck junction of the die. Happens more when resizing newly trimmed cases. This may scratch the necks of the resized cases. I thought I had ruined my dies, and the scratches were annoying until I learned to clean the dies once in a while. But this stuff is easily cleaned out with a bore cleaning brush wrapped in a little fine steel wool and chucked in an electric drill.
Lifespan is the same in my experience. The only early failures I had was when trying to expand nickel plated 30-06 to .35 Whelen dimensions. If I annealed the case necks first, no problem.
My cases are almost always retired when the primer pockets expand too much to hold the primer snugly. I have found no difference in that limit to case life with nickel plated cases.

Great stuff @Longwalker & good question @Goat416 .

I had wondered the pros & cons of Nickel cases myself, I have loaded a few .458win in nickel & 338/06 from 30/06 I use these for different loads so I don’t get my 338/06 mixed in with my 30/06 ammo & lighter bullets in my.458win if I’m messing about with 400gr - 450gr slugs .

I only noticed the nickel finish wears a little on cases that are reloaded more or rough handled, ie either empty’s on the floor of a vehicle or in back pack.

 

[skydiver386]

I think a lot depends on how hard you push your brass. If you load to moderate pressures and only neck size, they are fine. If you push pressure to max and full length size, you may encounter some problems.

Nickel plating can make it harder to spot case head separation and other cracks. I've also seen nickel cases that looked fine on the outside, but were very corroded on the inside. Every reloader should inspect their brass between firings and look the case over inside and out.

In all I'd prefer non-plated brass, but some calibers are only available in plated. Sometimes you have to take whatever you can get.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I notice on 357 magnum they tend to crack quicker than plain brass. I only load my nickel brass with jacketed bullets to minimize the need to bell the cases.

 

[Goat416]

I have reloaded many nickel plated cases in cartridges like .222, 7mm-08, .308, 30-06, 7x64 .35 Whelen etc. but nothing larger.
Mostly, it is just the same as regular all-brass cases. clean, lube, resize, load and shoot.
I did find it a bit harder on the cutters of my case trimmer. Seems to dull them sooner. Carbide cutters work better than carbon steel when trimming plated brass.
When resizing, a small series of burrs may develop in the loading die, which is actually flakes of nickel sticking to the shoulder/neck junction of the die. Happens more when resizing newly trimmed cases. This may scratch the necks of the resized cases. I thought I had ruined my dies, and the scratches were annoying until I learned to clean the dies once in a while. But this stuff is easily cleaned out with a bore cleaning brush wrapped in a little fine steel wool and chucked in an electric drill.
Lifespan is the same in my experience. The only early failures I had was when trying to expand nickel plated 30-06 to .35 Whelen dimensions. If I annealed the case necks first, no problem.
My cases are almost always retired when the primer pockets expand too much to hold the primer snugly. I have found no difference in that limit to case life with nickel plated cases.

Great idea for cleaning dies, probably not a bad practice to clean them regularly.

 

[Goat416]

I think a lot depends on how hard you push your brass. If you load to moderate pressures and only neck size, they are fine. If you push pressure to max and full length size, you may encounter some problems.

Nickel plating can make it harder to spot case head separation and other cracks. I've also seen nickel cases that looked fine on the outside, but were very corroded on the inside. Every reloader should inspect their brass between firings and look the case over inside and out.

In all I'd prefer non-plated brass, but some calibers are only available in plated. Sometimes you have to take whatever you can get.

I have always reloaded the brass cases myself, so I guess that is also my preference.

What is your inspection process on the inside of the case? Just a quick visual inspection down the neck or are you using a scope?

 

[Doug3006]

I have loaded a ton of Federal nickel-plated brass cartridges in 375. I tend to load on the slower end of velocity. I’ve had good results loading up to 4 times. No cracks.

 

[Goat416]

I have loaded a ton of Federal nickel-plated brass cartridges in 375. I tend to load on the slower end of velocity. I’ve had good results loading up to 4 times. No cracks.

Do you crimp the nickel cases? How does that effect the nickel plating? What bullets are you reloading?