Rifle scope reticle choice ...

[rookhawk]

This is the Leica proprietary calculator, but it may end up being close or correct for you.

Plug in your load details. Set your unit of measurement. Set your zero range. Have it calculate.

Then go to the tab for their ballistic reticles. There is one similar to your Christmas tree. Plug in variables until you find a zoom distance that creates subtension ranges that seem somewhat easy for you to remember. (e.g. 150-200-250-325-etc)

You'll then have to go to the range and test at that zoom range to see if it works....it won't. You'll then fidget with your scope with slightly more or less zoom than it says on the dial and it will eventually work. Then you put a piece of tape on your scope and use a pen for a witness mark. For the rest of your days, you'll be constantly looking at that zoom dial making damn sure it didn't move whatsoever to a different magnification, otherwise your subtensions will all be off.

Leica - Ballistic Tool​

Leica - Ballistic Tool
https://ballistictool.leica-camera.com

 

[shootist~]

Set up target at any standard distance. 100 or multiples thereof. One target only. (200 yards would show better separation. )

Shoot 3 shot groups, using each full hash mark - OR each dot. (1st group using the crosshair). Use maximum power since it's 2nd focal plane.

Measure the vertical distance the group moves up for Each full hash (or Dot).
Convert to MOA. Use any balistic software with your bullet's Ballistic Coefficient and MV to create a ballistic chart using 10 yard increments. (JBM Ballistics is a free online example). Back into what your bullet does matching up the expected MOA change for each full Dot or Hashmark.

I'm gonna guess the dots represent 2 MOA and the 1st Hash is half of that. (IF correct the 2nd full hashmark would then be 3 MOA, 2nd dot 4 MOA, etc.)

OR they might be based on Mils, but doubtful.

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Members, as usual I am not disappointed with the great feedback I am receiving from every member here participated in this discussion, thank you kindly for every member`s input /opinion/suggestion...it is MUCH, appreciated ...

Ridge Runner , I think you hit the nail on the head...if I approach this method you are describing and using the bow sights with pins for each distance this method will be the answer to my question for sure..

As pointed out previously when I commence with this M96 Karl Gustav 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser load developments , I first wanted a good accurate load that will work for me every time to give me confidence in my loads and rifle ...

I now have a accurate load...(step 1) completed
I now have to fit a rifle scope to ensure an accurate shot at game animals and gongs.
I now need to match the rifle with the scope I understand the use of. Understanding the Christmas tree recital and use it accurately is the next step.
I have the Weaver Grand Slam 4-16x44

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Great answers to a question and great suggestions as well practical methods ....
I need to ask: I am using the same bullet weight ELD-X 143gn bullet and S365 propellant . Likely this load /bullet will be a good enough product to hunt up to Blue Wildebeest. So I have no reason to change to other bullet weights and Brands??

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Thank you for your opinion..I believe shot placement still compliments a good quality bullet

 

[Choupique]

Just zero the rifle to whatever it says on the box of ammo, convert the drops to MOA or MIL (whatever the scope is) and figure out the correct holds based off the reticles' dimensions. That'll get you banging steel at 500 yards.

The subtensions themselves will work out to some odd ranges, but that's just what it is. If the 2nd intersection works out to 328.4 yards or something weird like that, just hold a hair low for 280 yards or a hair high for 350. You get the idea.

This is why using straight hold over for long range isn't preferable and requires a really complex christmas tree once the ranges get long. You've got to figure the elevation part out, and then figure out the wind hold on top of that, and your aim point becomes some spot in space between crossbars on the reticle. So, you're aiming for a spot on an animal (which doesn't have a bullseye) with a point on the reticle that doesn't exist because it's floating off to the left of vertical and in between two crossbars.