The Long Goodbye

FIELD ETHOS

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By Brooks Potter

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It was a chilly, sapphire-blue-skied Montana morning. The bouquet from season’s first alfalfa cutting hung heavy in the air. The river was up, but gin clear.

Standing in my board shorts and flip flops with a foot kicked up on the trailer’s wheel hoop, I leaned on the gunnel of the still-trailered drift boat, eyes sweeping the chaos of the Storey Ditch put-in. It looked to be rush hour on Wilshire Blvd. There was this kind of snark as all vied for position in the line up to launch boats.

“Dude, that was my spot.”

Never used to be this way.

Having recently reread Ambrose’s Undaunted Courage, I was struck in that moment by the catastrophe in front of me juxtaposed against the wild, bucolic landscape Lewis and Clark stumbled into in 1806—on this very river and maybe even the very spot I stood. The only traffic of that day may have been the few, scattered Shoshoni camps pitched each summer to hunt and fish these prolific headwaters of the Missouri River. A quieting image.

I’d become acutely antisocial in my trout fishing cosmos. My capacity to manage the increasing chaos on popular western trout waters has become inversely proportional to my increasing age—and the curve isn’t linear. It has become outright dispiriting.

Anymore, and as a general consequence, I don’t get real serious with a rod until September and will fish solitarily well into the snows of winter. Greased up ferules and frozen snot is a thing unto its own—kind of like fine wine.

This particular break from my otherwise iron-clad convention came after a call from David. Without even a hello, “Lets fish the Madison on Thursday” he said.

A brilliant securities attorney who’d loomed large in my former life, David was exceptional with a rod and a pro on the oars. Both progeny of the territory’s llanero’s, we’d fished together for years.

This Thursday?” I said.

This was a stupidly last minute proposition, and David knew he’d be pushing on a piece of string. After merciless placations, he dropped the salmon fly bomb. I went quiet, remote-viewing the infiltrators slapping water.

“You still there?” David asked.

My calendar was clear. Then there is the forever siren call of my maternal waters.

At cross purposes with my better judgment, I heard myself take the flyer, “Ok, I’m in.”

I loaded the requisite gear into the cowboy Cadillac, hooked up the trailer and pulled the trigger on the two-and-a-half-hour drive to Idaho Falls. David would fly into IDA the next morning, early.

Then on to Ennis.

After procuring 20-ounce coffees from the one-man “Drift & Drip” roadside kiosk, we blew through town, bypassing the already busy fly shops.

Turning up-river, the trailer chattered on the heavily washboarded access road. As we closed in on the put-in, “Are you fucking kidding me?” I said. More than a mutter. At that point, I’d have rather skipped the whole thing. Kryptonite.

As we often do while fishing together, David and I spoke without speaking.

Rather than trying to stuff our way onto the river, we’d let the flotilla bob well downstream before putting oars in the water. This meant getting off the water late, but we’d headhunt the dusk-dark caddis hatch. This was workable.

With the launch pressure ameliorated, I cracked a beer. Through the dust kicked up by the to and fro of boats and trailers, my scan stopped on one chap in particular. There’s always someone that stands out in a crowd. He’d gone man-down trying to help his guide launch the boat.

They don’t want help. Trust me.

He was fully wadered up—puzzling inasmuch as the river’s running speed would almost assuredly keep him in the boat. Then the vest stuffed absolutely pocket-busting full, zingers and tippet spools all a’swinging, the GoPro strapped to his noggin, the other to his chest. I tipped my head like a confused puppy. It occurred to me that if he went in the drink, he’d go right to the bottom. The trendline of the ridiculously over-togged had gone vertical. Where are these people coming from?

The simplicity of the “quiet sport” has been largely supplanted by consumerism. Though not yet a smokestack industry, fly fishing now figures as a stand-alone in the GDP, crosspollinated with the fashion sector.

Of course, overarching is the pressure on the resource. Only so much water, so many fish and so much unmolested province. Despite best efforts, the “governmental agencies” and non-profits are out of ideas. Landowners aren’t taking any shit either. Stir into that soup the penetrating effect of the water rights mayhem.

The guide and outfitting associations remain the on-the-water infantry, not with badges and sidearms, but as mentors of resource stewardship. This includes the tenets of river decorum, a treatise in its own right. The increasingly abrasive attitudes of entitlement are conspicuous—courtesy of the incoming big blue wave—inseminating all good things of the Old West.

The fairytale of Yellowstone is twisting the knife.

What’s the answer? There is no answer. The thing, such as it’s been forever, is broken.

About mid-float, we pulled over for a bite of lunch. Relaxing with feet kicked up, tranquilized with the sound of water lapping against the fiberglass hull, a couple of fellas floated by us. We extended the fraternal wave and a “howdy!” They simply stared at us stone-faced. David lipped an appropriate “pfft.” “Where’s a #4 sinker when you need one?” And having been a star pitcher at Penn, he’d have gotten it there. “Who the fuck are these people anymore.” Not a question.

I let the declarative hang.

“David” I said with half a sandwich in my mouth. “You called me.

“Yeah I know. I’ve been waiting for that.”
 
And this is why I hunt Africa. It is an incredible privilege to have an entire ranch or an entire concession to oneself. Unless you've experienced it, understanding it is impossible. Someday that too will change, broken by politicians, activists, or simply be beyond the reach of mere financial mortals.
 
I’m not THAT old . Something I find myself saying a lot lately. But when I first got into hunting out West, I started with Pronghorn in Wyoming. I remember the guided Elk hunts in good areas cost as much as 2 grand. So those were beyond my reach.

My friends and I had a buddy in Douglas who arranged Prairie Dog shoots for us. He had many rancher friends who’d let us hunt Pronghorn for a trespass fee. On my first trip, we pulled into the parking lot of a Burger King to meet the rancher the day before the hunt. After shaking hands and exchanging pleasantries, he said the fee was $150 per man for the 3 days. We paid up. He was genuinely embarrassed to take our money. He just shook his head and said he couldn’t believe people would drive all that way and pay good money to shoot a goat!

It was just a few years later that guides had leased up all the land around Douglas and were charging a grand or more for the hunts. Those same hunts are over 4 grand today. Simply supply and demand I guess. I’m happy for the ranchers that they have a much needed additional income stream. But I know that the high prices and limited draws are preventing lots of folks from experiencing a hunt out West.
 
I can tell you from being born and raised here in Wyoming… it’s not the same as it used to be and the changes I have seen are damn sure not for the better.
 
Agree with much of the article. But I gotta say, the urban/suburban crowd ruin most things. Fishermen, hunters, hikers, whatever you call them…are tourists. They visit the countryside/wilderness and return to the cities to live and work. Years ago most all were farmers and ranchers and made their living from the land. They belonged to it. Not so today. Very few of us live IN it. As a farmer and rural dweller my entire life I have always looked at the “visitors” as just that. Tourists who can’t wait to skedaddle back to town. Some worse than others. Keep yer powder dry and run em to me.
 
Without us visitors, the whole conservation scheme falls apart. If not for us, the license fees that state agencies need and $ ranchers depend on to conserve the resource would be greatly reduced. It takes a big tent, with all sorts of people, to maintain our access to wild places.
 
I have often lamented - perhaps even on this site - the death spiral of "the good ol' days". During my childhood and growing up years in KS all that was needed for access in most cases was "Yessir", "Thank you", don't tear up the land, and keep the gate closed. I'm not much of a prophet, but I saw the likely writing on the wall not long after college and high-tailed it to Alaska, one of the best decisions of my life. I have a number of friends in KS who threw in the towel on hunting because they can't get access, and either don't want to pay for or can't afford the cost of leasing property.
 
You have no idea how many hours I've spent dreaming of owning land..... The truth is that if you're not born into a family that already owns land, it's very difficult to financially justify the expense and borrowing risk. This of course is not news to those who farm and ranch. Most of them will tell you it's hard enough to make a living when you already own the land, much less having to go to a bank and borrow money to buy it. And once you've bought it, you need to figure out some way to make money with it to pay the banker. A lot of those ways to make money on land will reduce the value/utility of the land for hunting purposes.

Public land hunting is available, but comes with a whole other set of issues.......

So, I work hard at my day job, try to make a contribution to society, support my family, and set aside enough to be able to afford to get out and hunt and fish and enjoy the land of someone else who is willing to share or rent me the land temporarily. I guess this makes me a "tourist" or a "visitor." I do treat the land and the resource with respect, and I do appreciate and value those who are willing to make it available for me, and to make me (or at least my money) feel welcome.

If you don't want me, or "sports" like me on your land, that's your right. I get it, and I might feel the same if I was lucky enough to have my own little slice. If your neighbor is willing to rent out his land for me to hunt, that's his right. If it's public land then we all have an equal claim to use it. Your claim is no different than mine; even if you grew up nearby, and no matter how much you love it or how many memories you have of the good old days.

At least it's not the King's land anymore, and us peasants have some chance to get out and hunt it. It is a truly precious resource, and I'm grateful to be able to enjoy it when I can.
 
Ennis.....the Madison.... referencing one of my favorite books.....and overcrowded famous waters. This hits home. I fished that area a couple of times. But even back in the 90's when I called Idaho home, this was the case on the Henry's Fork, I can't imagine how bad it must be now.

Still, if I have my way I'll return to Idaho in the not too distant future. I'll just find lesser known waters.
 

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Gents here are my final itinerary for the USA Marketing trip 2025!

Itinerary 2025
12-02 Lexington South Carolina

13-02 Huntsville, Alabama

14-02 Pigott, Arkansas

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17-02 Richmond Texas

18-02 Sapulpa Oklahoma

19-02 Ava Missouri

20-02 Maxwell, Iowa

22-02 Montrose Colorado

24-02 Salmon Idaho
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14-20 March
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25-31 July
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September and October is wide open
 
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