What scope for 375 Model 70?

[Tra3]

I’m replacing the 1.25-4x swaro scope on my .375 because I found it lacking for a few longer shots on PG. I’ll be putting on a 1-8x Z8i, seems like the best of both worlds.
My eyes are still good, but not as good as they were. And they aren’t getting better!

 

[Velo Dog]

Fellow hunters and rifle grumps,

Unless your planning to hunt ground squirrels at longer distances, you do not need a large magnification scope on your .375 caliber rifle.
In fact, an over-powered rifle scope can be a hindrance in thick bush, where Africa’s big game is often hunted.
As Jack Stevens just said, a 3x optic is almost ideal for 99.9% of this kind of hunting.

Many years ago, I was discouraged to see Leupold stop making their excellent fixed power 3x big game scope.
(I am hoarding 2 of them).
Evidently, today’s generation is enamored with gadgets and extra options on every product they buy (look at all the useless nonsense a cell phone can do, as one sad example).

Anyway, my .375 is an old Brno Model 602 Magnum, with a simple but rugged 4x Zeiss scope (like everything else once sacred - now discontinued).
It sets firmly in Alaska Arms lever rings.
This scope, in said sturdy rings and rifle arrangement is an extremely effective combination for big game hunting, from about 3 paces, out to about 300 paces, from duiker to eland, red fox to moose.
With today’s super tough bullets, I suspect it would work fine on buffalo as well.

Grumpy old man rant over.

Cheers,
Velo Dog.

 

[matt vejar]

I like my 1.75x6 Leupold 32mm with standard crosshair. 8 buff 40-100yds. It’s still good for plains game out 200 yds I’d say.

 

[Toolhunter]

Just a new guy here. I did a lot of research in this budget for my Winchester .375 H&H. I finally chose a Vortex Razor 1-6 with the JM-1 reticle. Zeroed at 100 yards, the BDC reticle will consistently ring ipsc targets out to 500 yards using the four hold over hash marks. It has the illuminated dot with off positions between powers. Bright and clear, but heavy. Unable to download photos for some reason.

 

[TERMINATOR]

I like the Leupold VX5 2-10x42 FireDot I have on my 375. Has served me well on 2 safaris.

I am right with Mark on this one.

I killed the buffalo in my profile pic with a .375 and a Leupold 1.5x5 Vari X III Scope. Killed it dead with one shot (did pay the insurance was we approached but the buffalo never flinched) He was dead with one shot behind the shoulder as he quartered away.

All that said....the bull was shot at 80 yards with just minutes of light left. He had his head down feeding in tall grass and in the fading light, at 80 yards, I was stuggling on 5x to make out the outline of the shoulder and was left guessing exactly where the shoulder was. I could clearly see the buffalo but could not make out the hump of the shoulder on his body, and was basically just making my best guess on the front 13 of the body. The shot got both lungs as he quartered away and he only ran maybe 100 yards before piling up, but the shot was a little higher than I would have liked. Had it been much higher I would have been above the lungs.

I thought about that shot for days (weeks) afterwards and decided that even with just the additional magnification of a 6x scope that would have been 20% more magnification. Probably the difference in being able to see the hump/curve of the shoulder in the fading light. So I sold the 1.5x-5 Vari X III and upgraded to the Leupold VX-6HD 1-6X24 CDS-ZL2 ILLUM. FIREDOT DUPLEX. Gained magnification, maybe a little more light gathering (30MM tube vs 1") and the Firedot Duplex which will be nice in low light. But the kicker is that I moved up to a 416 Rem and put that scope on it. Because it will pretty much just be a "Buffalo Gun".

I still have the .375 and for that I got the scope Mark indicated for it. Because 2x is low enough for close in Buffalo but the 10x will be good if I am lining up on plains game. I now view the .375 H&H as a "all round" gun.....backup for buffalo but set up for 100-300 yard shots on PG And to me that is the beauty of a .375 H&H

If taking two guns to Africa, it is easily argued that the "Big Gun" should be bigger than a .375 and the "light rifle" should be smaller than a .375. But if your only gonna take one gun and DG and PG are on the docket...the .375 with good optics like the 2x10 Leupold VX5HD, that can go from low enough to high enough is the perfect all around gun for a 1 gun hunter in Africa.

 

[Ray B]

My preference of upper power for variable scopes for rifles that include what may be close range shots at upset animals is 6x. Scopes such as several that are 1.5 - 6x work very well for me. One reason for this is that of the fixed power scopes that I have on mountain rifles are 6 power.

 

[Sika98k]

Your stated game is plains game and buffalo. I would definitely be using an illuminated reticle for hunting buffalo. Nice to put a red dot on your target rather than a black crosshair.
Scopes I have personal experience of are. Zeiss Duralyt in 1,2-5x32 and a Meopta R2 in 1,7-10x42. Both have served me well.

 

[Jon Glajchen]

My Mod 70 375 sports a Khales Helga C 2.5-10x50 in EAW detachable mounts. I find it perfect for the bushveld where it does it’s hunting. The higher magnification works well for the occasional longer shots. I leave it on 6x for almost all other applications.

 

[Fatback]

I’ve got a 2-12x42 Leupold VRX 6 with an illuminated reticle. Good from point blank to as far as I want to shoot my 375 H&H. I’m very pleased with this set up

 

[Rusty Iron]

I just put a new to me Zeiss Duralyt 1.2-5 x 36 on my old Model 70 375 H&H. I’ll be heading out on the farm to sight it in as soon as I’m done my morning coffee.

 

[DLSJR]

I made my original post on this thread back in July of ‘22. Since then, I’ve had a couple developments. I recommended a Leupold VX5-HD in 2-10 with Firedot reticle, and mentioned I was putting it on my 416 Hoffman. There was one problem for my 416, as I have a claw mount that allows me to quickly detach for open sights and replace my scope still zeroed. The 2-10 was too large to allow the claw to pivot and release, so I bought a new VX5-HD with Firedot reticle in 1-5x to replace the 35 year old 1-5 Leupold I had on that gun. Now I had a 2-10 that needed a rifle…

Well, since then I found a nice deal on a 7 mm STW that was built around a pre-64 express action with a high-tec fiberglass stock by a benchrest shooter as his personal hunting rifle. We replaced the barrel with a Shilen select match barrel in 375 H&H and that 2-10 is going on the 375. Now, when I take 2 rifles to Africa, it’ll still usually be my 416 & 338; but when I want to only take 1 rifle, like for Cameroon next February, it’ll be my 375.

My personal belief is that, no matter which power your scope is, an illuminated reticle is a game changer for dangerous game or low light conditions. Having that small red dot at the crosshairs intersection is a nice improvement over traditional reticles. In the last 3 years, I’ve replaced scopes on 4 of my rifles, all with VX5’s and Firedots. My 264 has a 3-15, 338 & 375 the 2-10 and the 416 the 1-5.

Now I just need to sell that 7mm STW barrel.

 

[Captain Munro]

I'm convinced on the firedot for sure. Now I'm working on deciding on the 2-10 or 1-5 or something in between. I might by a plains game rifle in 300 win mag and use my Lott for the Buff. I just need to come up with some money...

 

[Quaticman]

A Leupold Vari-X III 1.5-6 x 32 if you can find a used one. IMHO it is the perfect scope for the .375 H & H.

 

[Katy Darren]

I am right with Mark on this one.

I killed the buffalo in my profile pic with a .375 and a Leupold 1.5x5 Vari X III Scope. Killed it dead with one shot (did pay the insurance was we approached but the buffalo never flinched) He was dead with one shot behind the shoulder as he quartered away.

All that said....the bull was shot at 80 yards with just minutes of light left. He had his head down feeding in tall grass and in the fading light, at 80 yards, I was stuggling on 5x to make out the outline of the shoulder and was left guessing exactly where the shoulder was. I could clearly see the buffalo but could not make out the hump of the shoulder on his body, and was basically just making my best guess on the front 13 of the body. The shot got both lungs as he quartered away and he only ran maybe 100 yards before piling up, but the shot was a little higher than I would have liked. Had it been much higher I would have been above the lungs.

I thought about that shot for days (weeks) afterwards and decided that even with just the additional magnification of a 6x scope that would have been 20% more magnification. Probably the difference in being able to see the hump/curve of the shoulder in the fading light. So I sold the 1.5x-5 Vari X III and upgraded to the Leupold VX-6HD 1-6X24 CDS-ZL2 ILLUM. FIREDOT DUPLEX. Gained magnification, maybe a little more light gathering (30MM tube vs 1") and the Firedot Duplex which will be nice in low light. But the kicker is that I moved up to a 416 Rem and put that scope on it. Because it will pretty much just be a "Buffalo Gun".

I still have the .375 and for that I got the scope Mark indicated for it. Because 2x is low enough for close in Buffalo but the 10x will be good if I am lining up on plains game. I now view the .375 H&H as a "all round" gun.....backup for buffalo but set up for 100-300 yard shots on PG And to me that is the beauty of a .375 H&H

If taking two guns to Africa, it is easily argued that the "Big Gun" should be bigger than a .375 and the "light rifle" should be smaller than a .375. But if your only gonna take one gun and DG and PG are on the docket...the .375 with good optics like the 2x10 Leupold VX5HD, that can go from low enough to high enough is the perfect all around gun for a 1 gun hunter in Africa.

I’ve got a 2-12x42 Leupold VRX 6 with an illuminated reticle. Good from point blank to as far as I want to shoot my 375 H&H. I’m very pleased with this set up

I just went through this same thought process. I haven’t hunted with it yet as it was just put on by @Mark Biggerstaff this week - thanks Mark! - but so look forward to hunting with it.

I went with the Leupold VX6 2-12 Firedot. I saw so many recommended 1 for the low end I really thought about that. I decided since I want it to be good for PG and Buffalo and all possible shots that I went with 2 on the low end to have a higher high end. Then the thought process was between spending the extra between VX5 and VX6. After hearing some stories where extra power would’ve been nice I decided it was worth it when put in perspective of spending thousands for the travel, hunt, taxidermy for perhaps a priceless once or twice hunt of a lifetime memory (I know, everyone here says once you go once you’re hooked).

I may never need that 12x but I’m glad to know it’s there just in case. And if that Buffalo is getting to where 2X is too much I’ll be hoping my PH with his true big bore is getting into the action. After looking through at 2 power I can’t imagine it not being fine. And as some here have said an option in that case when so close is both eyes open and point.

 

[PARA45]

My CZ-550 375 H&H, has a 1-6x Trijicon Accupoint scope; this scope is bright and the illuminated dot is nice to have. I took this rifle to SA last year, and shot several PG, and some DG animals with this rifle/scope combo. Some of the shots were a bit long, but the scope performed as expected.

 

[fourfive8]

No matter the scope, consider the practical side of options. For anything 375 or heavier recoil, 4” or more eye relief. The greater the exit pupil number the better for quick acquisition. Higher power has zero affect on ballistics and can be counter productive to accurate shooting at any reasonable hunting range. Toughness of scope and mounting is important for heavy recoiling rifles, field oopsies and baggage handlers. Reliability of function in the field, IMO, is paramount for any hunting rifle. KISS is always my guide for setting up hunting rifles

Here’s one of my M 70s with Leupold FXII 2.5. Dovetail rings front and rear. Scope rotated 90’ left to clear loading/ejection port. The rifle is full length bedded with pillars. This set up is about as tough, reliable and KISS as I can make it.

 

[TERMINATOR]

No matter the scope, consider the practical side of options. For anything 375 or heavier recoil, 4” or more eye relief. The greater the exit pupil number the better for quick acquisition. Higher power has zero affect on ballistics and can be counter productive to accurate shooting at any reasonable hunting range. Toughness of scope and mounting is important for heavy recoiling rifles, field oopsies and baggage handlers. Reliability of function in the field, IMO, is paramount for any hunting rifle. KISS is always my guide for setting up hunting rifles

Here’s one of my M 70s with Leupold FXII 2.5. Dovetail rings front and rear. Scope rotated 90’ left to clear loading/ejection port. The rifle is full length bedded with pillars. This set up is about as tough, reliable and KISS as I can make it.
View attachment 522071

Never have to worry about having it on the wrong power setting

 

[fourfive8]

Never have to worry about having it on the wrong power setting

Exactly. Especially in dense cover at shorter ranges or for DG. The last thing you want to be doing is jacking around with is buttons and dials. That 10 seconds or less used in raising rifle to shoot or situating on sticks then fumbling with turning a knob, in the correct direction, can be pretty important if that kudu or buffalo for that matter is staring you down through a narrow alley in the thick scrub! Or worse if the power is too much and/or with a narrowed FOV for any DG hunting, if you have to use your rifle for incoming on follow up shots. More magnification is not going to make any difference in visual resolution for shot placement for a kudu in thick cover at 100 yards or a buffalo at 20 yards. Even a 1-5X variable is not needed for relatively long shots on big game. I think the longest shot I have ever taken in Africa was on an Oryx at about 260 yards. I have a Leupold 1-5 on my 338-06. I just set it at about half way and leave it there. Good steady rest on stick sticks sitting down and I had no issue placing the bullet within a 3 inch intended circle just at the crease of the shoulder on that oryx at that range.

The other advantage to using lower power for most hunting is a psychological one. Test the theory under field conditions at the shooting range. Set a scope to high power- I see lots of variables in the 14x range recommended. Our whatever high power scope you have on a rifle. Then try to hold the sucker steady without showing all kinds of tremors of the crosshairs zigging and zagging around the bullseye. Lower power has no affect on ballistics nor on the actual rifle tremors but you won't notice them at lower power. You won't be trying to yank at the right time.... so your chances of squeezing the trigger correctly on the desired target impact area is much better

 

[Inline6]

Exactly. Especially in dense cover at shorter ranges or for DG. The last thing you want to be doing is jacking around with is buttons and dials. That 10 seconds or less used in raising rifle to shoot or situating on sticks then fumbling with turning a knob, in the correct direction, can be pretty important if that kudu or buffalo for that matter is staring you down through a narrow alley in the thick scrub! Or worse if the power is too much and/or with a narrowed FOV for any DG hunting, if you have to use your rifle for incoming on follow up shots. More magnification is not going to make any difference in visual resolution for shot placement for a kudu in thick cover at 100 yards or a buffalo at 20 yards. Even a 1-5X variable is not needed for relatively long shots on big game. I think the longest shot I have ever taken in Africa was on an Oryx at about 260 yards. I have a Leupold 1-5 on my 338-06. I just set it at about half way and leave it there. Good steady rest on stick sticks sitting down and I had no issue placing the bullet within a 3 inch intended circle just at the crease of the shoulder on that oryx at that range.

The other advantage to using lower power for most hunting is a psychological one. Test the theory under field conditions at the shooting range. Set a scope to high power- I see lots of variables in the 14x range recommended. Our whatever high power scope you have on a rifle. Then try to hold the sucker steady without showing all kinds of tremors of the crosshairs zigging and zagging around the bullseye. Lower power has no affect on ballistics nor on the actual rifle tremors but you won't notice them at lower power. You won't be trying to yank at the right time.... so your chances of squeezing the trigger correctly on the desired target impact area is much better

I'm not sure about this theory, recently shot a match. One of the stages was shooting a 2" target kneeling @ 88 yards. I did not have the highest score on that stage (think I was the 3rd highest of over 80). After shooting I went to reset zero on my scope, I noticed I was on 21X. I believe that helped make sure I had it on steel when I tripped the trigger.

I have read some people say that you need low power scopes so you can use with both eyes open. Have shot many many rounds over 20X with both eyes open. It is all about how you train.

It is funny to me how people are saying you don't need more the 5-6X on a "big bore" really? I'm not a master hunter by any stretch of the imagination. That said it doesn't take a lot of knowledge to understand the benefits of higher magnification.

I'm not married to this optic it just happens to fit the bill and the budget. The Meopita 1.7X10X42 is mounted in a set of lowest rings possible, same set you would mount a 1X5-6-8 in. Low to bore, so that should not be a down fall. It has red dot, so we have a check there. The Swarovski 1.7X13.2 has parallax which is an added bonus. I'm saying all this to say technically has come a long ways. Why hold yours back to a lower power scope? With a scope on 1.7X I can have both eyes open and make a shot on a light switch at 10 yards in my house dry firing. The flip of the switch is a little fuzzy, you see enough detail to hold on it.

I'm not saying anyone is wrong for their thinking. What I would not want to see is someone passing up on a little higher power scope because of some of the messages in this post.

At the end of the day, you have to train. No matter what your rifle/scope combo is. When it's time to go to work are you and your equipment ready? That is the question we need to ask ourselves.

YMMV

 

[Laniarius]

I'm not sure about this theory, recently shot a match. One of the stages was shooting a 2" target kneeling @ 88 yards. I did not have the highest score on that stage (think I was the 3rd highest of over 80). After shooting I went to reset zero on my scope, I noticed I was on 21X. I believe that helped make sure I had it on steel when I tripped the trigger.

I have read some people say that you need low power scopes so you can use with both eyes open. Have shot many many rounds over 20X with both eyes open. It is all about how you train.

It is funny to me how people are saying you don't need more the 5-6X on a "big bore" really? I'm not a master hunter by any stretch of the imagination. That said it doesn't take a lot of knowledge to understand the benefits of higher magnification.

I'm not married to this optic it just happens to fit the bill and the budget. The Meopita 1.7X10X42 is mounted in a set of lowest rings possible, same set you would mount a 1X5-6-8 in. Low to bore, so that should not be a down fall. It has red dot, so we have a check there. The Swarovski 1.7X13.2 has parallax which is an added bonus. I'm saying all this to say technically has come a long ways. Why hold yours back to a lower power scope? With a scope on 1.7X I can have both eyes open and make a shot on a light switch at 10 yards in my house dry firing. The flip of the switch is a little fuzzy, you see enough detail to hold on it.

I'm not saying anyone is wrong for their thinking. What I would not want to see is someone passing up on a little higher power scope because of some of the messages in this post.

At the end of the day, you have to train. No matter what your rifle/scope combo is. When it's time to go to work are you and your equipment ready? That is the question we need to ask ourselves.

YMMV

I think most of the comments are based on typical big game hunting situations with a fairly large kill zone.

The competition example you're giving is closer to, for example, a head shot on a croc or hippo. Which could be a very good reason for many Africa hunters to have the option of higher magnification.