ZIMBABWE: Once Upon A Time With Mapassa Safaris

and now to continue and finish the story:

Day 13 – 2/11/2023 – Steenbok and a small leopard​


Waking up again to a grey sky, we set out to check baits. While on the road for the first bait in the corner of Marshlands, I suddenly saw movement ahead. Vaughan confirmed it to be a shootable steenbok, that was scurrying around in the bush. Off we went on a short stalk when we could suddenly spot him standing still, looking back at us. He did not feel too afraid as there was 70m of dense brush between us and we could only see him through a tunnel. The sticks went up quickly and the 7x64 delivered again. The last of the Tiny Ten that was available as a species on Marshlands! Some quick pictures and we continued doing our rounds of the bait.

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With the euphoria of the steenbok in the salt subsiding, depression sank in again. Still no sign of anything, not even a genet or caracal or bush pig visiting any of the baits. Even the lone brown hyena had not returned to “Hanging George”.

We started discussing the situation over lunch after we got back to camp. As the weather was still grey but improving, we took a bit longer lunch break during which Vaughan shared a video of a hunt last year on their concession, with some New Zeeland hunters. It was a very professionally made video, about a combined elephant and leopard hunt. However, this was a leopard-over-hounds hunt and the action and the adrenaline was palpable in the video.

There I made my decision, that if I ever would hunt leopard, I’d rather do it over hounds than from a blind. I said as much to Vaughan and Garth. I’d rather forego the very slim chance, due to the current time of year, to hunt a leopard from a blind, instead save my money, maybe hunt some other smaller things and have a great time for my last few days and try to do a leopard over hounds at some undetermined point in the future. Blind hunting is not for me, I find it the less interesting option compared to a stalking and tracking hunt. Vaughan and Garth also agreed, they had noticed that this blind-hunting business was not my cup of tea. As soon as we had decided to quit the leopard hunting business, the camp felt like a weight had been lifted.

As the weather was cleaning up, we were going to adventure out to a secret fishing spot from their youth and try and see if we could land any catfish. It was located along a stretch of river inside the conservancy and no one had been there in a while, as we had to ask the guys to cut a path through the overgrown “road”, to get the truck through.

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Arriving there, with the water gently flowing in the river and all the green around, we thought we had been transported to another area of the country and would see hippos and crocodiles floating by any time now. It was truly a most magnificent little corner of paradise there and using some of the entrails from various doves and go-away birds we had shot that morning, we sat out to do some fishing.

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No crocs or hippos were there of course, but at some point, someone could have fooled me, when a huge monitor lizard came from the depths to have a look at us, before getting out of dodge. We spent a few hours there, happy to soak up some warm sunlight on the warm rocks and feel the pressure of the last few days float away. Eventually, we called it a day and returned to camp. On the way back, we noticed a group of zebras and next to them some impala, with one monster ram between them. Jumping out of the truck, I tried to stalk them on my own, with Garth following at a distance. It would be great if I could show them once how it was done! But all kidding aside, it felt nice to know that Vaughan and Garth had sufficient trust in me, that they could let me try and start a stalk on my own, without their direct supervision.

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Alas, it was not meant to be, because after about 100 meters I felt a distinctive breeze on my neck and it wasn’t long before the impala vanished into the bush. Garth and Mlillo had joined me by then and we tried to continue the stalk and track them, but the impala had seen enough of us and disappeared. I hope on future hunts that I will again be in a position of having gained sufficiently the confidence of other PH’s, to redo this. It was very enjoyable for once not to be following another man’s butt into the bush, but having to think myself on how and when and where to move. It felt much more like hunting.

Back to the Land Cruiser, direction camp, with night falling around us. Driving into Marshlands, we suddenly spotted some eyes in a tree, a genet. Garth and I jumped from the truck with the .22 rifle and tried to stalk it while it was running and jumping away. Although I had the .22 in my shoulder a few times and even attempted a shot (which was a clear miss) I could not seal the deal. Back on the cruiser, we went for the last few hundred meters to camp. At the last turn in the road, only 100m from my lodgings, there was again a drumroll on the roof of the cab. Garth had spotted yet another genet. This one was sitting still high up in the tree. Through the shadows, all I could see were the eyes reflecting the light from the flashlight. I aimed carefully and got him through the right eye, he fell out of the tree like a sack of bricks. The .22 had only grazed the brain, so I put in an additional heart shot to speed up the passing. It turned out to be one very big male large-spotted genet. We had a few pictures and handed the genet over to the skinner for a full body mount. Reflecting on this hunt, I must admit that this was the first time I had a tinge of regret for having shot at this animal. Genets are beautiful little creatures with a furry tail almost as long as themselves. They look like they are a cross between a leopard and a raccoon, with spots on their body and a ringed tail. There are small-spotted and large-spotted genets. The small-spotted have a white-tipped tail and have as their names says, smaller spots on their body. While the large-spotted genet has the dark-tipped tail. They are little carnivores of the night, superbly agile, and are the only cat that can stand on their hind legs. They eat mostly rodents and insects. As I mentioned, I felt a tinge of regret after having shot this elegant little creature. I think I would have preferred to see it jump and run around instead of being shot. Food for thought.

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Day 14 – 3/11/2022 – The pressure is off​


Without any more pressure to check baits for leopard signs and having sent the Parks Ranger home, we set out to see if we could connect on some pigs. Up until now, we had tried multiple times to outsmart both bushpig and warthog, but each time they eluded us. It was about time to get some bacon back home. In the morning Paradzai had told us he had spotted a nice warthog down in the fields, so around 7:00 off we went in that direction, with the three Jack Russel’s in tow. Mlilo, Junior, and Seda quickly got on the tracks and we followed step by step, observing how they worked their magic. At some points, when Vaughan had a suspicion of the direction, we would leapfrog ahead, trying to keep the pace up. However most of the time we would lose the track and then have to wait for the trackers to catch up again. The spoor took us through a huge semi-circle and we realized we had been had. The warthog must have spotted us from a distance, and upon seeing us approach he circled around to get to our back, got our wind in the process, and subsequently disappeared in the bush.

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After having tracked an hour or so the warthog tracks and having realized that this attempt would be fruitless, we went back to some tracks of bush pigs we had stumbled upon while tracking the warthog. Their path led in a straight line and seemed to be from last night, when after having fed in the vicinity of the lodge they traveled back to their den a few kilometres away. With the heat of the day rising, we started tracking this new spoor but we did not manage to catch up to them before their tracks led into the kopjes of a neighbouring property. The heat had been beating on our heads all along during the track, so we were glad to get picked up by the truck to get back to camp.

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While arriving there, together with the midday heat, it started feeling heavy again and rain clouds were gathering around. As this would be keeping animals from moving, we decided to spend our afternoon at a nearby pond, trying to catch some fish. Not very successfully however, but a beautiful evening nonetheless when the sun pierced the clouds just before setting.

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Day 15 – 4/11/2023 – Pigs!​


With both the warthog and the bushpig giving us the slip the day before, we had to show them who was boss. So, we got up bright and early, and around 7:00 we set out to find some bush pig tracks. There was a suspicion that at least one sounder of bush pigs was retiring in some known kopjes during the day. The plan was to circle these kopjes, so we could pick up their tracks and then follow them into the kopje towards their den. Just like the day before, by 10:00 the sun was again testing our resistance to sunburn. Vaughan, Garth, and I were on edge, following the trackers silently with our rifles at the ready, prepared to react quickly if they would suddenly come out from behind a bush or rocky hole.

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The tracking went well and we found where they had milled about, uprooting some small shrubs and trees, to get to their roots. After this snack, their tracks led into one of the kopjes. As we did not yet know exactly in which one of the two hills their den was, we decided to change the tracking hunt into a driven hunt. Vaughan, Garth, and I posted ourselves at the foot of one of the kopjes in a haphazard gun line, overlooking a dry pan between the two kopjes. Meanwhile, the trackers and the Jack Russels would walk around, coming back from where we started, they would climb the two kopjes at the same time and drive the bush pig’s out of their den, hopefully towards our lap.

We tried this a couple of times on different kopjes, but without much success, despite the best efforts of the trackers and the dogs. Everyone came back down after the last try, and we assembled down in the valley. It was around 11:30 now and had a war counsel on what to do next. With the temperatures rising again above 40 degrees Celsius, we were about to call it off for the morning, to try again in the afternoon. While we were discussing this, the dogs had been milling around the trackers and us, when suddenly Kanka, one of the Jack Russels, sped off investigating some bush 25m from where we had been kicking about.

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As we all were feeling like we were getting boiled alive under the sun, contemplating how to best get back to the truck, we weren’t ready at all for what would follow. Upon reaching the bush, Kanka’s yipping changed to a higher pitch, and just as we started to realize that he might have found something we saw a big black shadow lifting itself from the long grass and sprinting away. “Bush Pig!” yelled Garth and we all started sprinting with our rifles in our hands, trying to keep within distance of the howling Kanka, who was hot on the heels of a big boar. After hours of being silent and keeping still, the air was suddenly filled with growls, barking, men yelling and me huffing and puffing behind Garth.

Vaughan had long since been lost from our sight as he had followed the tracks in a different direction than us. Astonishingly, there had not been just one bush pig hiding in plain sight right next to us, but the whole sounder!

For the next hour and a half, under the sweltering sun, Garth and I alternated running with fast-paced walking, trying to keep up with the ever-more distant yipping of the Jack Russels, but utterly failing to do so. Trying to outrun a pack of bush pigs being chased by a Jack Russel was perhaps just a bit optimistic on our part. At some point, having completely lost all sense of direction, we happened upon a dirt road and actually could see the truck in the far-off distance. We walked over there, to find Vaughan sitting easy and waiting for us. Although Garth and I weren’t aware of this, it had stopped being a bush pig chase about an hour ago and now we were just trying to get all three dogs back. Kanka was the last one still missing, and the trackers had difficulty following its tracks. While we were drinking a few liters of water to aid our parched throats, the message came over the radio that the trackers had found Kanka and everyone fell back to the truck, sharing in some cool drinks. Garth took off his hat, threw it upside down in the road, and filled it with water for the dogs to drink, as they too were getting to the edge of their limits. The pigs emerged victorious yet again.

The heat was stifling and we were all exhausted and would welcome a nice late lunch. Luckily, once we had driven back to camp, Francis had prepared one of the camp favourites, zebra schnitzel with French fries. As we were enjoying our lunch and cooling off under the shade of the thatch roof, Vaughan suddenly asked “Where are the binos?”. “What are those spots down in the valley?”. A bit of a shuffle ensued, trying to find the closest bino and behold, two warthogs were munching on some grubs in a small open space! One of them looked pretty decent, as we could even see ivory from such a far distance. They were about 200 meters down and about 1km away from the lodge. While we continued finishing the food on our plates, we kept an eye on them. Once we finished, they were still hanging around where we had spotted them. I retrieved the optic for the 7mm, that I had left behind in camp when chasing bush pig that morning and Garth and I jumped in his truck.

A frantic drive down the hill to get in their vicinity took us about 15 minutes, and we stopped just short of a gully that ran parallel to the location of the warthogs. There was a thicket between us and where we estimated the warthogs to be. We used the gully to get as close as possible and then went into the copse of trees to get them in our sights. We were about 80 meters away and it was quite obvious to even me which one of the two kneeling pigs would be of interest. Leaning on a tree, I found a stable footing. Meanwhile, from the lodge, Vaughan could see the proceedings.

Getting the final approval from Garth and his confirmation that I had the right one in sight I breathed gently out and the pig came down as if struck by lightning. We ran up to him, his body full of ticks and plenty of grey hairs and bald spots. As he was still on his way out, I gave him a merci shot and Garth went back to get the truck. What a dandy of an old warthog! We brought him back to the lodge for some pictures on the lawn and though I did not know it yet, this warthog would be the last animal I would be sending to the salt.

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After all the effort, the many kilometers walked and sweat shed, trying to get the upper hand on a pig, who would have thought we would be shooting one over lunch!

That afternoon with the storm clouds gathering , preparing yet again for another storm, we went down to the pan to get some fish. Francis had a nice starter of crumbed and fried fish bits planned for tonight, for which he was still lacking the fish. We were happy to oblige!

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With the cloud cover, swarms of flying termites were falling into the water and the fish were showing a lot of activity. Even though we were not catching much, we had so much fun that we did not notice the thunder and lightning get on top of us. When the lightning suddenly struck some power lines about 100m from us, we called it a day. No point in getting electrocuted now. Luckily, we had caught a few fish, just enough so Francis could fry us those crumbed fish bits.

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Day 16 – 5/11/2023 – Bottom feeders​


For the one but last day of my trip to Zimbabwe, and also the one but last day of hunting that would happen this season on Marshlands, as we still had the fishing boat in camp, Vaughan organized another fishing expedition. The target would be to go for large bass, over at Shishani Lake. At 6:00 we got up, to leave camp around 7:00, with the truck, trailer, and boat, everywhere loaded to the gills with equipment for a day of fishing far from home. As it was promising to be another scorcher today, we luckily did not forget to bring the sunscreen as well.

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Upon arrival at Shishani, it was still quite cold, but the guys prepared everything rapidly, and soon Vaughan, Garth, and I were speeding along the shores trying to find a good spot. Having had a bit of practice in the last two weeks, the casting came a bit quicker to me, but my luck was not. Despite numerous casts and a few lures lost, I did not seem to be able to connect. Garth and Vaughan were doing a bit better than I, but not at all what we were used to catching in a few hours, in the other places. Garth did manage to reel in a rather nice catfish. Once this one was in the boat, we made our way back to the truck, where the guys had started a fire in the meantime.

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Although the fishing gods had not been smiling upon us that day, luckily there was a backup plan in the form of duiker meat that we could cook on the fire, as well as the catfish. But first, we needed to get the meat of the catfish. With some clamps and hooks, he was strung up on the closest tree. Then came the matter of killing it, as it was still very much alive as it had spent its time in the hold, nicely oxygenated with the water coming into the boat. With their thick skull and overall very hardy nature, I learned that killing a catfish is something that even 2 veteran Zimbabwean PHs find a daunting task and would rather leave to one of the trackers. I can neither confirm nor deny, if at some point a .22 was used, so at least the catfish would have the decency of keeping still while it was being butchered.

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Eventually, the steaks of catfish were cooking next to the duiker meat, while the guys were preparing the always present Sadza. It was sweltering hot, even though we were finding some refuge under the trees. Unfortunately, with the proximity of the water, and being under the trees, we soon got stung on all sides by mosquitos, mopani flies, and all other manner of flying and stinging beasts. Luckily the beer was cool and while we were waiting for the meat to get ready, each of us flapping around with our hats, all feeling a bit miserable, Garth looked around and back at the meat: “Truly a bunch of bottom feeders” he exclaimed. We all burst into laughter. Both the duiker and the catfish are obvious bottom feeders, contenting themselves with whatever they can find. But perhaps Garth did not have the meat in mind when he looked around and saw us all in our misery with the mopani flies.

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In honesty, both the duiker and the catfish were not the culinary highlights of the trip. The catfish especially was quite muddy in its taste.

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To get away from the mopani flies, we did not have a siesta under the trees, but immediately set off on the boat again. Hoping to have more luck in the afternoon. However, this meant exchanging the annoying biting insects, for the searing hot midday sun. With no clouds above us, and the boat and us likely standing out like sore thumbs on the water surface, the fish refused to bite. If I recall correctly, not one more fish was caught the entire afternoon.

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By the time we made our way back to the truck, we were feeling properly cooked and burnt. We loaded everything back on the truck and the trailer and with a glorious evening sun setting, we made our way back to Marshlands.



Day 17 – 6/11/2022 – Family time​


Since my last day with Mapassa Safaris was coincidentally a Sunday, and the very last day of the season on Marshland’s, Vaughan had arranged for his wife and son to join us over lunch and spend a quality afternoon fishing the nearby pan.

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After breakfast, to warm up our legs, we thought to go out for a little stroll. A klippie had been spotted and Vaughan was offering a deal on it, if we could get it of course. Our feet took us to a koppie where we found some old cave paintings from the original hunter-gatherers from the region. No klipspringer could be found however, so we returned back to the lodge for some serious business. The second tusk had finally, the day before, gotten out of the skull of my elephant, and on my very last day we would do the weighing. Not the official one, mind you, with Zimbabwean officials, but just between us, to close of the safari.

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Everyone was gathered around and the tusks were displayed. There were high hopes, due to the high age of the elephant and the thick bases that we would still be able to breach the 50lbs a side, despite both tusks having been broken off. We each got the opportunity to pick up the tusks and get a feel for them. After which Vaughan noted our estimates on a piece of paper. Estimates ranged from 40 lbs on the lightest tusk to 52 lbs on the heaviest tusk. When everyone had given their opinion, together with lots of laughter, and jesting that one or the other may have had a background in poaching, the tusks were put to the scale. The right-hand tusk weighed in at 44 pounds, the outside curve was 50.5 inches while the inside curve was 42 inches, with the circumference at the lip being 17.5 inches. The left-hand tusk weighed in at 48 pounds, with a total length on the outside of the tusk of 53 inches, an inside curve of 43 inches, and a circumference at the lip of 17 ¾ inches. An excellent trophy for this region, where the average is usually more around 35-40lbs. I could not have been happier with the result. A proper, old bull elephant, with heavy ivory, broken tusks, and feet that showed the many 1000s of miles walked in his lifetime.

After the weighing moment, we got ready for lunch, as we were expecting Vaughan’s wife and their son to arrive. I believe he was around 7 years old. After giving them some space, we all met, in and around the common area, exchanging greetings. Vaughan’s wife turned out to be a professional guide herself. But since the arrival of their son, she had been focusing on getting a more school-hour-friendly career going. Especially the tourism and hospitality sector around Victoria Falls seems attractive.

After the sumptuous lunch of zebra steaks, we all walked down to the pan, to spend some hours in tranquility in the afternoon sun, fishing away. Vaughan wanted to share a few last moments on Marshlands with his son, showing him how to fish and spending some quality time together.

When a neighbour of Marshlands started talking about removing the fences between their properties to create an even larger common property, it became a natural conclusion for Vaughan to also propose to the neighbour to buy Marshlands from him. Having two bosses for the terrain would not have made sense anyway. This had all been decided a few weeks before my arrival. I would have the dubious honour of being the very last client to ever pass by Marshlands with Mapassa Safaris. In fact, that Sunday was likely the last time Vaughan’s son would ever be on the property as Garth and Vaughan were preparing to move towards Victoria Falls with their families the next days. There was a tinge of sadness that day as it was for everyone the end of a story.

But I did have the honour to watch a father and son spending time together fishing. As a young father myself and far from my family, this was touching. Especially, when a bit later Vaughan put out a cardboard box and did some first shooting lessons with the .22. I dream of one day being able to do the same with my children. I never had that.

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We spent a very unrushed and happy last evening all together. Fishing, having a beer and seeing the sun go down in the sky. Garth and Vaughan were having fun trying to fish with small balls of sadza, but without much luck. I caught my biggest bass of the past two weeks, in perhaps only 15cm of water.

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Eventually, Vaughan’s wife and their son had to leave and it was just Garth, Vaughan, and I, silently fishing, lost in our memories, sometimes yelling out when we got a bite. The plan was to take a last picture with the sunset of me with all the trophies, but we had forgotten a bit about timing, so we had to rush back to the lodge and get the guys to bring all the skulls to the front, so we would have the setting sun in the picture. I must admit it was quite a procession seeing them all file past, one holding a tusk on his shoulder, the other a skull. Garth made some great photos that I’ll be able to treasure for a very long time.

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Once all the pictures were taken, we joined around the campfire for a last drink, with some fresh fish bits. It was also the time to thank the staff. Previously over lunch, I had asked Vaughan to write down who from the staff I should include in the tips as well as what kinds of amounts he would recommend. There were 11 people on the list, over whom I divided up $2000, as per the amounts indicated by Vaughan. For Garth and Vaughan, I chose to give each the same amount, especially with Garth having produced a video of my adventure there. This to the sum of $1500 each. I also gave all the most important trackers and skinners each a brand-new Scandinavian knife. The binos and batteries I had brought over for Vaughan, instead of having him pay me back for this, I just made a gift out of them as well. Vaughan also suggested, that if I was not overly attached to my second pair of hunting boots, then Junior could use some to replace his old sports shoes. I did this gladly. Everyone was appreciative and the mood was light.

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This night the flying ants were out in force, even more so than usual. As lights were attracting them, and Vaughan wanted to get a reserve of them going for future fishing opportunities, he had a tarp fetched, that was held in front of the land cruiser, and then they would switch on the high beams. The termites would swarm in en-masse, and everyone helped out catching them and throwing them in a bucket to collect. Apparently collecting them, then freezing them, would keep them fresh for use another day.

Another delicious dinner later and we made off to bed, for our last night together at Marshlands.

Day 18 – 7/11/2022 – Departure​


Having not brought a lot of luggage, the packing went quite fast, and after the by-now obligatory breakfast omelet, we set off to the city. We just had time to pass by Collett’s quickly so I could pick up some elephant hair bracelets, have Vaughan do a quick doctor's appointment, and finish it with a good coffee, before being dropped off at the airport again.

For my return trip, I did not even bother going in civilian clothing. Shorts, bush shirt, Courteney’s, I must have made quite a sight for the other passengers. Going through the check-in process, as was the case when I arrived, there was someone present to help with the process. However, he was not always around, which meant that at one point when the officials would be checking the serial numbers, I found myself in a 2 by 3 m backroom. Sandbags, some of them spilling sand on the floor, a rinky-dinky table in the back, on which my Americase was placed, and apart from myself and two officials, about 10 baggage handlers in the room. There was no air in the room, no windows, no ventilation, just a door out to the tarmac. Once the serial numbers were checked, all attention was on me when the officials started to leave. They obviously wanted some compensation for their services, but this was rather unnerving, being alone in that backroom with 10 other people, all staring while I was looking for a bill. I only had a 50 USD bill left, and due to the amount of people, I decided it was perhaps for the best if I gave it to them, instead of the official who had helped me through the whole check-in procedure and who had told me he would come by and find me later in the lobby. I later explained this to him and although he was not too happy about it, he understood my predicament and made me promise that next time I would be in Zimbabwe, I would not forget him.

The short flight to Johannesburg was quite uneventful, apart from the fact that upon arrival there we had a bit of trouble finding where they had put my bags. Instead of having the regular check-in bag with the others on the carousel, it had been delivered to the area where the gun cases were. The gun cases were in the meantime already picked up to get checked by SAPS, but my check-in bag was still waiting for me.

Once we got all the bags checked in, I met up with @Frederik . Another member from the AfricaHunting forum that I had chatted with in the past. He made the effort to come over to the airport to keep me company until my flight to Belgium would leave. We had a few hours where I got to share all the pictures and adventures with a fellow hunter. The first person I got to speak to, who was not present, but actually understood what kind of feat this elephant hunt was. We had a great few hours together, chatting about over drinks. He had even brought me a few old issues of Big Bore Magazine. A great guy all around.

But then came my flight to Belgium and the adventure was fully over. The flight was uneventful and after a short Uber drive home, it was finally time to embrace my wife and our daughter.

THE END
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AFTERMATH

I am now writing in October of 2024, exactly 2 years after I left Belgium on this adventure. End of 2023, the Belgian Government announced that they would no longer allow the importation of trophies of Lion, Leopard, Elephant and a few other iconic animals. From January 2024 no new CITES import permit's where being delivered. Luckily my pre-CITES had been valid until May of 2024. Pressuring Collett's to get the elephant trophies on-time out of Zimbabwe and on its way was stressful. But in the end all turned out okay. I'm still waiting for all the other trophies. But all the elephant trophies are secure in my hands.

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For those interested, those little stumps looked like this, after the necessary drying:
Left Hand Tusk: 48 pounds, outside curve 53" , inside 43" , circumference at lip 17 3/4"
Right Hand Tusk: 44 pounds, outside curve 50.5" , inside 42" , circuference at lip 17.5"

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Very likely I am one of the last, if not the very last, hunter who imported legally and officially ivory from Africa. So though this trip was financially a big burden at my young age, this confirmed that it truly was a case of now or never.

Thanks to all AH members for their advice, their messages, encouragement (enablers!), that allowed me to go on this amazing trip. But especially thanks to @rookhawk, for introducing me to Vaughan and Garth from Mapassa. I'm convinced that we will find ourselves in the same camp with them, in the next two years!

V.
 
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Great writing all through the hunting report! Also really nice pictures:)
 
Well, that report was worth the wait. A hearty congratulations, Vert.

I really like how your elephant trophies turned out. Glad you got them in before that door closed.

Oh, and very cool to see that you got a hyena, and I am with you on sitting in blinds.

:D Beers:
 
Great writing all through the hunting report! Also really nice pictures:)

Thanks @KJE81. It is amazing what an Iphone (13) can do for pictures.
 
Well, that report was worth the wait. A hearty congratulations, Vert.

I really like how your elephant trophies turned out. Glad you got them in before that door closed.

Oh, and very cool to see that you got a hyena, and I am with you on sitting in blinds.

:D Beers:
Thanks @BourbonTrail . The number of times I said to myself that I was so lucky getting that ivory in, helps with the financial sting of such a grand safari.

On the blinds, I have nothing against it, just that I'd rather be actively looking for my quarry, than sitting and waiting for it to come. I sit on my butt the whole year round for my job. For my holiday I prefer to clock some miles.
 
An immediate reaction of throwing back its head and collapsing on its hindquarters first, was the first thing I noticed after the loud boom of the shot. All indications of a successful brain shot. The two other elephants screamed out, turned on their heels and were out of sight before the big bull lay fully on its side.

As I had seen the reaction to my shot, confident it was a brain shot, I picked the sticks ups, nice and easy, “admiring the shot”. A bad habit I’ll need to lose in the future. Vaughan, to the left of me, who had his .500 Jeffery raised as well while I was making the shot, in case of a necessary back-up shot, quickly brought me out of my reverie. “Reload!” he yelled and urged me to run in a wide circle around the bull's back, while the brush was alive with crashing branches from the rest of the herd stampeding away. While running around, the bull had his legs stiffly outstretched, and it seemed there was still some life in him. Coming up behind him, Vaughan pointed with his rifle to the top of his head and told me to put in a “coup de grace”. On my knees I went and put one in the top of his head, then a third safety shot between the shoulder blades, through the spine and it was all over.

The bull was down and emotions could start to run freely, I was shaking on my legs, exchanging handshakes, back slaps and hugs with Vaughan and Garth. We screamed of joy at the top of our lungs, our exuberance echoing up the kopje where Ian and the other trackers had been following every step of the stalk.

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Walking around the bull, to get a look at the ivory, we were all amazed. Yes, they were little stumps, but mostly because it was a massive bodied elephant! Garth and Vaughan agreed that this was one of the biggest elephants they had seen. With the tusks coming into sight, this was a big surprise, as the bull had massive tusks. Cracked yes, but at least 18 inches at the lip, carrying its mass well forward. We were all ecstatic as the tusks had not looked as big from a distance, due to the bull’s giant size. The other tusk, that we had not had a good look at, was impaled into the ground, so with everyone together, using a pole cut from a nearby tree, we lifted its’ head up. It too was cracked, but at an earlier point in the bull’s life, with the tip much more broomed-off. It also carried its weight well forward.

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Meanwhile, Ian and the other guys had joined us and the congratulations and thanks flew through the air. While they arrived, it was time for me to take ownership of the elephant in the traditional way, by cutting off its tail. Cutting my first elephant’s tail would be a very memorable and emotional event event for me, so I wanted to bring a special knife to the occasion. One year and a half before I had a custom knife made by AfricaHunting member “Von Gruff”, a New Zeeland master blade smith. Together we had also subsequently invented a closed off sheath, but with the stud on its side, instead of on the front of the sheath. This to avoid the stud to rub against a rifle.

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Cutting the skin of the tail and feeling for a place between the bones for the knife to get into, was not as simple as some before me have made it seem. But the large, razor-sharp knife definitely helped. After the triumphant holding of the tail and some first pictures, we set the guys to do some light brush clearing, so the trophy pictures could be taken. Meanwhile we were all recounting the moments leading up to the shot.

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Ian, who had been watching our progress from the kopje, told us that by the time my third shot fell, the entire herd of elephants was already at the other side of the valley, about a kilometre away. Had I made a bad shot, there was no way we could have followed up and chased them through the thick mopane and thorn trees.

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Now that everything calmed down a bit, we started to make plans for the recovery. We were about 800 meters from the nearest dust road, with very few people living in the vicinity. While Vaughan and Garth were discussing this, Nko found a nest of bees in the marula tree, under which the three bulls had been sheltering for shade. These were tiny bees without stingers, so we could break the nest open with impunity and share the delicious wild honey inside. To the man we all wanted to taste it, and the trackers and skinners twice!

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Plans were made, and the first step would be to contact the nearby villages, to alert them that there was an elephant down and nyama to be gotten. Vaughan, Garth, Ian and I hiked back to the truck, defining a path for the guys to start clearing, towards the sand road. It was around 14:00 now and the sun was beating down on us hard. Once at the truck, Vaughan drove up a nearby ridge line, so he could place some calls to nearby chiefs.

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After all the necessary calls, and figuring that it would take some time for nearby locals to start coming in to help with the recovery, Vaughan proposed to rinse off the dust and sweat in a nearby lake. All four of us stripped, and with a Zambezi beer in our hands we jumped into the cool water for a few minutes of refreshment. We were acting a bit like children on Christmas morning. Then drying off, into the truck and back towards the elephant.

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During our absence, about 400 meters of brush had been cleared and we were stuck with the Land Cruiser behind a tractor and trailer and about 30 men that continued to hack a path. As I still had no 3G connection, to allow me to call home, Vaughan and I jumped out of the truck and climbed up a nearby kopje, where he gave me the possibility to use his phone for a few minutes to place an international call home and so I could hear if all was well with our daughter. Luckily my wife had only good news to share. Our daughter was fine, and would only need some light medication to get better. I could then tell her that I had some success on my side as well and my wife shared in my enthusiasm. She was probably just happy that the dangerous part of the hunt was over with me alive and well.

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While the group of men were still clearing a path, we walked ahead to where the skinning had already started by about 10 people going at it. The skinning of an elephant happens in the removal of first the trunk. Then six panels are skinned off, three on each side. Meaning the elephant had to be turned over with the use of the Land Cruiser to get to the other side. Then the head would be taken off, and once that was done, it becomes a free-for-all for the locals to get meat.

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But with the first panel from the front left leg and shoulder being removed, it was time to make elephant kebabs. Using meat from the top of the shoulder, cubes of fat cut from behind the eyeball and some onions, 3 kebabs were soon sizzling away. And good thing this was too, as none of us had eaten anything since the omelette early in the morning.

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With more and more people arriving, the work went fast until we had to turn over the elephant using the Land Cruiser. At the first attempt, the big rope broke in half in two places, but the second attempt did the trick. Turning over a 6 ton plus animal is no mean feat. Now the skinning of the other side started, while we were feasting on the kebabs. This was very good eating indeed, I should have asked Vaughan to make us even more. It is very tough and dense meat, which needs a long time to cook, before it becomes edible. I found it delicious.

The whole recovery, until we got all six panels of skin, the trunk and the skull into the truck, took until sunset, with more and more people streaming in. In the end there were about 40 men, women and children there, hacking and slashing to get as much meat as possible. They would be going at it the entire night, until only a big pool of blood-stained sand would remain. In total, this meat would be feeding up to 300 people for a few months and would likely need to be stretched out till next year’s start of the hunting season, as I was the last hunter of this season. Among them were also children taking part in the recovery, the youngest probably only about 2 years old, guarding a wooden plate where his parents had put a piece of meat on. This elephant and its’ nyama would be a welcome source of food in an otherwise protein starved part of the world.

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Once Vaughan’s Land Cruiser and Garth’s Hilux were fully loaded up with the skins and the skull, we gathered all the guys and started the road back home. Passing us, we could see a lot of people on bicycles or on foot making their way to the kill. People would still be on their way there by next morning, to pick up any scraps that would remain.

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Along the main road out of the conservancy, en-route to the intersection in the town of Marula, we passed a local bar where we had to make a stop to get some fresh beer. Having not had the chance yet to see what a bar in Zimbabwe looked like, I went together with Junior to get some beers. Outside a group of onlookers, 50 strong, had gathered around Garth’s truck, where the skull was. Inside the bar, as it took some time to get all eight beers, multiple people started approaching me. In broken English, with wide smiles, they thanked me for hunting in Zimbabwe and providing them with meat. Six men and one woman approached me, grateful, sometimes with tears in their eyes, for the meat that the community was about to receive.

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Jubilant we arrived at Marshlands, where Vaughan’s father was also waiting for us. He had brought over a speed boat, for us to use the next day. He, Vaughan and Garth all shared in a celebratory drink of a fine single malt that I had brought over specially for the occasion.

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Those tusks will be huge when removed from the skull. Congrats on the bull of a lifetime.
 

Day 8 – 28/10/2022 – Disco Fever, Bandits and Construction Work​

The next morning, we were back at it, getting up around 5:00. We were going to be hunting for leopard bait. Zebra, Mbizi in Shona, still being the primary target. We quickly got on the tracks of another herd of zebra, so we started to run after them, hiking up and down the kopjes to get an angle on them. However, they kept on winding us and trotting off again. We left Garth and Seda on one kopje, in order to spot the herd for us, while we walked over to the next kopje. It was a clean, beautiful sunny morning. With the sky finally cleared of all the smoke and dust that we had been walking through from the first days.

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We came to the top of the next kopje, when the radio crackled with Garth’s voice, saying the herd was moving our way and would be breaking the bush cover to come into an open area just in front of us. Upon direction of Vaughan, I went down on my belly on a particularly large boulder, trying to steady my 7mm and myself on it. Just then the herd broke cover and came in a trot towards us, with the stallion in the lead. As we never had much luck chasing zebra, I was under the impression that Vaughan wanted me to take a shot as soon as I would be comfortable. Looking through the superb Swarovski Z6i 1.7-10x42, aiming about 40m lower and 100m away, I took a shot at the slowly but steadily trotting stallion, slightly quartering to.

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A good hit, but he didn’t go down just yet. With the boom the whole herd had picked up speed again, but we could clearly see that the stallion was sick, not keeping pace with the others and starting to split off. “Give him another one”, Vaughan said, so another shot rang out, this time broadside. He again sped up for a few meters to come to a standstill, facing away. Vaughan told me to put one up his behind, and I tried to break a bone shooting him from behind. He was not really running anywhere anymore, so a final shot strongly quartering away at around 150m brought him down once and for all.

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Although the first shot probably would have done the trick in the end, Vaughan was worried that we would have to spend too much time tracking him, especially once he would reach cover. As long as he was standing, I was having a clear line of sight and felt comfortable, I should just keep shooting, he told me afterwards. He was surprised by my first shot though, as he had read the animals to be slowing down and come to a standstill and thought I would shoot once they would be standing still. In any case all good in the end.

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Trying to get off the boulder, I had to give my rifle to Mlillo, before I could get off of it. We slid down the kopje and walked over and found out that the first hit was in the lungs, with the entry in the black of a stripe. Which is why we could not see where I had hit him. The RWS Kegelspitz bullets that I was using in the 7x64, would not penetrate to the other side either, stopping just under the skin. Meaning that for an animal to succumb from blood loss alone, would take some time.

We took a few pictures and then dug two holes in the ground, at the width of the rear wheels of the Land Cruiser, just next to the zebra. This allowed the Cruiser to back up into those holes, and have the truck bed much lower so it would be easier to load the stallion up. Then off to the skinning shed, to get the hide off and have him quartered for the bait. I also asked them to keep the 2 fighting teeth. Canines that the stallions have for fighting purposes. Then a quick lunch and off we were, to go put up some bait!

We had a total of 4 quarters from the zebra, as well as half an impala still from two days ago, so we would go out to set up 5 bait sites to begin with. If we would get to hunt some more, we could set up more bait.

The first bait would be hung in a corner of Marshlands, where the recent fires had not reached, so there was still a lot of cover, and where there were some nice kopjes and cliff faces that should make for good leopard habitat. The other 4 would be hung in the conservancy proper.

While driving to the first bait location, with a truck full of meat and tools to construct bait locations and prepare the terrain for a possible blind, we saw to our front left in the distance 2 men walking with dogs. As soon as they saw the truck they started running and Vaughan yelled “Poachers! Catch them!”. Garth was the first one off the truck. In his youth he used to play number 8 in rugby and this clearly showed in his muscular physique. These days, he is of a bit more robust nature, but the rugby background is not far, so seeing him go full throttle after them, is a sight to behold. Pity the man that would get tackled by him.

The car hadn't come to a full stop and so were Junior and Seda following suit, sprinting after the poachers. Vaughan yelled after the three “100 bucks for who catches them!”. He swiftly spun the Land Cruiser around on the sand road and raced back to cut them off on the other side of the block. We had driven to the northern border of Marshland’s and this block was bordering on the highway. The point where we had seen the men, was about 1/3rd in to the road that ran parallel to the highway. As the men had run into the block, in the direction of the highway, we would try to cut them off on the other side.

Having been used to fast driving the past few days, Vaughan still managed to kick it up a notch and drove his Land Cruiser like a true Colin McRae, flying over the sandy roads to the opposite corner, where the road meets the highway. Mid-way he slammed the brakes and told Mlillo to get out and keep a lookout if they would come his way and then we sped on. Reaching the highway, Vaughan drove for a few hundred meters, and after us both getting out, asked me to keep my bino’s trained to the front, while he ran back to the corner, so he could see Mlillo from afar and myself and keep in visual range of two sides of the block. On the highway side, the block was not particularly straight, with a large bend about 400 meters away, so I crossed the highway to the other side, in order to have a better angle on the rest of the block.

What seemed like a long time, but was probably only a few minutes, I heard Vaughan yelling behind me to get back to the truck. Both of us breaking into a dead sprint to the Cruiser. Garth and the others had caught one and could use some assistance, as he had turned violent towards Junior. Speeding again back to where we had originally seen the poachers, we just stopped for a few seconds mid-way to pick up Mlillo. Vaughan had a smile on his face when he saw him. Mlillo is a 48-year-old proud man of stoic nature, and seeing that he had taken off his vest to prepare for physical activity had Vaughan chuckling. Everyone at the Marshlands camp it seemed, shared the same feelings for poachers.

Driving back to the same location where we had first spotted them, we used some bird calls to guide Garth and the others back to the truck. The poacher that they had caught, after running in the direction of the highway, had double-backed, crossed the road from where we had spotted them and went into the block on the right. Garth, Seda and Junior were following him hot on his heels, so he tried to escape by trying to get through a barbed-wire cattle fence, where he got his shirt properly ripped off him, and sustained a few large bleeding gashes on his back.

Seeing that his escape route was not going to work, the poacher turned around to Junior, who was hot on his heels, grabbed a big stone and tried to bash Junior’s skull in with it. Luckily, Garth and Seda were not far behind, and the three of them managed to pin him down on the ground. As there was no rope in the neighbourhood, Garth removed the laces from his boots, and used it to tie the poacher’s hands behind his back.

It was a rather surly looking man, at the head of the 4-person procession, coming out of the woods in the direction of the truck. The trackers sat him down, and started to question the man in Shona. He quickly started talking, how he and his mate were just out looking for their cat. With their dogs. As excuses go, not the most imaginative. However, while we were milling about with the trackers trying to get more out of the man, we had a stroke of luck. Garth was off to the side, trying to have a look around the location where we had first spotted them, to see if they had dropped anything. In fact, they had. From the tall grass, Garth pulled two crude spears made from rebar steel with sharpened points. These would be used to stick antelopes that the dogs had bayed up.

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These spears would now constitute the formal evidence, so pictures of the spears were taken, together with the poacher. We called up the Parks Ranger, who would deliver him to the nearby police station. After having seen the Parks Ranger arrive, he did start giving up the name of his mate, most likely in order to elicit some clemency. As the poacher’s bad luck would have it, there was a tough brigade of Zimbabwean police, called the "black boots", in the area, and they would be less gentle about the whole affair.

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Once this whole business was settled, we resumed our drive to go place the first bait. There is a lot of thought that goes into selecting a good bait location. Vaughan and Garth explained it using a technique they called “Bait-Object-Blind”. The way it works is by first locating the “Object”. A river, a road, a clearing, an open field, anything that will have a leopard feel safe from that direction, as he can clearly see anything from afar.

A leopard can see about 7 times better in the dark than a human being. That, combined with their almost telescopic sight, like birds of prey, means that the most minor movement they can notice from a far distance away. The best protection against being spotted is then to keep the attention of the leopard away from your direction. If he feels safe from the direction you are sitting in, he should focus his eyesight and attention on closer bushes and possible threats.

After choosing the “Object”, the bait and the blind are constructed on opposite sides of the object. This way, the leopard will have a lower tendency to be looking in the direction of the blind, while he is at the bait.

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For the bait site, Professional Hunters will mostly try to find a sturdy tree, from which to hang the bait. Each PH having their own technique, some hanging the bait very high, others very low, Vaughan definitely fell into the latter camp. Due to the area, there are very little hyena’s and no lions or any other predator with which a leopard would need to contend. As it is cattle country, the locals probably drove the lions away quite a while ago, while any hyena’s that dare to try their hand on the cattle, will see the carcass of their kill poisoned or snares set up by the locals.

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When selecting the bait site, an eye is also kept as to the possible location for the blind. As mentioned on the opposite side of the “Object”. As it is hilly country, by preference Vaughan and Garth would try to find a way for the blind to be located higher than the bait. This gives an additional protection against being spotted by an incoming leopard early on, as well as provides a safer shot angle. Shooting down into the ground. Often multiple locations around the same Object would be tried, in order to find the perfect combination. The goal would be to have as much possible natural cover at the blind, requiring the least amount of brush to be cut between Blind and Bait, so as to not create a tunnel effect pointing straight to our faces sitting in the blind.

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The bait would then be hung up, often but not always, with a branch underneath it that would allow only a leopard to stand on it and dictate the angle at which he can eat from the meat. Sitting in the blind this would then provide a perfect broad side shot at the vitals. Finally, some branches with leaves would be hung over the meat. This is not really to protect the meat against the all-seeing eyes of vultures, as the vulture population has been decimated in recent years, from having eaten from poisoned carcasses. Rather, these branches would protect the meat from direct sunlight and the heat, so the meat would not rot so quickly.

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We repeated this selection process of “Bait-Object-Blind” four more times in the conservancy and communal areas. I tried to help out a bit, clearing out some brush with the typical African bush axe, but the trackers knew what they were doing and I was mostly in their way. By the time we setup the fifth bait, it was getting late and we headed back to Marshlands.

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With the rains that had fallen in the past few days, insects had also started to come out of every nook and cranny. Giant swarms of winged termites had streamed out of their underground fortresses, rhinoceros beetles were roaring around, and all manner of stinging, biting and slithering critters were coming out of hiding. We gathered for sundowners in the main dining area, with as much of the artificial light shut off, so as to not attract too much creepers. While we were having a cold beer, suddenly Junior came limping up to Vaughan, holding in his hand a scorpion that he had trampled to death, while walking between the camp buildings. The critter had stung him on the upper foot and he was obviously in great pain, but brave as he was, he did not want to let us know. He just wanted to have Vaughan and Garth check online if it was a dangerous scorpion or not. They started looking up pictures of scorpions and comparing the one in the trembling hand of Junior with an online database. Hopefully it would not be a dangerous one, as we were about 1.5hours from the nearest hospital and in Zimbabwe it is never certain they would have any anti-venom available anyway. While they were researching, Vaughan asked if I had any pain killers and anti-inflammatory medication. I had some Ibuprofen on hand that I had been using to calm my knees in the first days. After getting it, Vaughan gave Junior two 400mg tablets and told him to come see them in the morning for two more. In the meantime, Garth and Vaughan had concluded that it was not a dangerous one, and it was not a life-threatening injury. It would be very painful, the swelling would remain for a few hours, but nothing much worse and there was nothing else to be done but to dull the pain and reduce the swelling with the Ibuprofen.

We had a hasty dinner by candle light, with again swarms of insects all around us, attracted to any light source and we were off to bed. After getting to my lodge, I had a shower and changed into my sleeping wear and had the habit of having a few quiet minutes, sitting on my porch and having a last smoke. Looking up at the sky full of stars, is how I like to end my evening. While doing so, I heard something moving about in front of me. A rabbit was sitting only 5 meters away looking at me. After a few minutes it ran off. A minute or two later, I heard something slithering to my right side. I looked down from my chair, and just as my eyes could make out the form in the dark, it stopped moving about 50cm away from me. There was a about a 1.5-meter-long green-brown snake sliding itself around a support pillar of the lodge, just next to my naked feet. Being all enthusiastic about seeing a snake from close by, I whipped out my iPhone to try and get some pictures of it. Fumbling with the flash setting, the snake acted as if it was caught and started to move away.

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Not fully appreciating what had just happened, I sent a picture of the snake to Vaughan. The next day he identified it as a small spitting cobra. Next time I should be reaching for a long stick or a heavy boot, instead of a camera!

Day 9 - 29/10/2022 – Hattrick​


Today would be the first of our bait check tours and the anticipation was high as Vaughan and Garth were aware of 3 big male leopards operating in the areas we had baited. However, on this first tour, no tracks, no sign of anything. Using a mixture of blood, guts, stomach content and faeces, a soup was prepared that would be used to provide each bait site with a short blood trail. What the reason was that the blood trail was only placed the day after hanging the baits, I do not know. I’ll need to ask Vaughan and Garth about the rationale behind this.

Vaughan and Garth did not believe in making very long blood drags, instead counting on a very strong smelling and short trail. This should make it easy for a leopard to find the bait, before losing interest in a too long blood trail.

While we were checking one of the last baits on our route, we came upon a group of baboons that were crossing the road. The big dog was staying behind, looking at us, while the rest of the group scurried over the sandy track. Hunting baboons, which are considered pests in Africa, is always good sport, so I jumped off the truck, using the open front door as a support, and let a 7mm bullet fly. Direct hit on the chest and he was down. It is not a favourite of a leopard, but an extra bait is an extra bait. We strung him up, upside down, from a nearby tree, in view of the road, so it would be easy to check on him. Baptizing him “Hanging George”, we went on our way.

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After all baits had been checked and the blood trail added, we drove back from the communal areas to camp, for lunch and a siesta. We were all still fatigued from the proceedings the days before. After some rest, we decided to pile into the Land Cruiser and do a drive around Marshlands, to see if we could find any other disco donkeys for bait. While driving through some particularly thick bush, we came upon a female Kori Bustard. Bustards are some of the largest African birds that can still fly. They have their nests on the ground however, so seeing a female walking around and checking us out, probably meant a nest was in the neighbourhood.

Continuing on, with the sky turning redder as the sun started its descent for the day, we suddenly spotted a klipspringer on a kopje about 200 meters away. A klipspringer is a very peculiar little antelope, weighing only about 10-15kg and being only about 50cm tall. As their name suggests, they love being on rocks and cliffs, jumping from stone to stone. Their coat is also a bit different. While the colours are a simple sandy reddish brown with hints of grey and yellow, the hairs are hollow. These hollow hairs help with insulation on icy cold nights, as well as protects the animal against falls, although these are rare for such a surefooted animal as a klipspringer.

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As soon as Vaughan had established that this klipspringer was a shooter, I got out of the cruiser, and Garth handed me the 7x64, while Vaughan setup the sticks. Then came the most embarrassing 10 minutes of the trip, with me fumbling around with the sticks. Each time I tried to get a solid rest to aim at the tiny klipspringer, from about 150m, one of the legs of the shooting sticks would pop out and I would basically be on an awkward bipod.

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After many expletives from my side, with Vaughan most likely facepalming himself and thinking “bloody hell get on with it!”, I finally got setup nice and solid and put the crosshairs on the back rib of the klipspringer, who was quartering to us. He still felt safe on his perch in the sun, as he would be able to see us approaching from far away. As the crosshairs settled, I gently pressed the trigger and the 7mm barked.

On such a small animal, the 7x64, with the soft lead bullets, was a bit overkill and the results were quite explosive. A full mount would no longer be possible. But what a beautiful little antelope he was!

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A few pictures later, and off we were to see what else the bush had to offer on this magnificent sunny African evening. Leaving the Land Cruiser behind, we hiked up a kopje to have a better look around and to enjoy a spectacular African sunset. While on top of the kopje, Vaughan spotted a group of Zebra about a kilometre away. Joining this herd of zebra was also a nice warthog. While Vaughan would keep overwatch, Garth and I slid down from the kopje and began the short hike across the burnt bush in their direction. Depending on the situation when we arrived there, we would either go for the zebra for bait, or for the warthog.

We moved from bush to bush and finally came to a small ravine. The animals we had spotted were on the other side. We gently tried to get down to the ravine, trying not to have too many rocks falling from under our feet and then climbed up the other side. While climbing up and with the first flatter parts coming into sight, we spooked a couple of duiker. Garth asked me if I wanted to go for a good duiker instead but they ran off before his question was completely out of his mouth. We pressed on, ever slower, in the direction of where we thought the zebra herd would be, until they suddenly came into sight. We had to go a bit further though to get on flatter ground, so the sticks could be set up. A bit more fumbling trying to get stable, while the stallion was looking straight at us, heavily quartering-to. I put the cross hairs on the right side of the stallion’s chest, almost on his shoulder and my shot rang out. We could immediately see bright red heart blood spurting out and after having run a full circle of about 10 meters across, he piled up within 10 seconds. With the sun setting on the horizon behind us, Garth managed to takes some amazing pictures. Then getting the truck in and loading up. We were all in a festive mood, having seen plenty of animals that day, and connected on three species over the course of the day! Now that we had more bait, as well as some extra steaks from the zebra for our dinner’s and lunches, we would be able to put even more bait sites up.

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Arriving back at the lodge and dropping the klipspringer and the zebra off at the skinning shed, we gathered around the dinner table for excellent eland schnitzels. A camp favourite!
Did an October hunt in Mozambique once upon a time. Along with the heat, there is nothing quite like the insect and reptilian life. Saw my one and only gaboon viper. It was the single most lethal looking thing that I have ever seen.
 
and now to continue and finish the story:

Day 13 – 2/11/2023 – Steenbok and a small leopard​


Waking up again to a grey sky, we set out to check baits. While on the road for the first bait in the corner of Marshlands, I suddenly saw movement ahead. Vaughan confirmed it to be a shootable steenbok, that was scurrying around in the bush. Off we went on a short stalk when we could suddenly spot him standing still, looking back at us. He did not feel too afraid as there was 70m of dense brush between us and we could only see him through a tunnel. The sticks went up quickly and the 7x64 delivered again. The last of the Tiny Ten that was available as a species on Marshlands! Some quick pictures and we continued doing our rounds of the bait.

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With the euphoria of the steenbok in the salt subsiding, depression sank in again. Still no sign of anything, not even a genet or caracal or bush pig visiting any of the baits. Even the lone brown hyena had not returned to “Hanging George”.

We started discussing the situation over lunch after we got back to camp. As the weather was still grey but improving, we took a bit longer lunch break during which Vaughan shared a video of a hunt last year on their concession, with some New Zeeland hunters. It was a very professionally made video, about a combined elephant and leopard hunt. However, this was a leopard-over-hounds hunt and the action and the adrenaline was palpable in the video.

There I made my decision, that if I ever would hunt leopard, I’d rather do it over hounds than from a blind. I said as much to Vaughan and Garth. I’d rather forego the very slim chance, due to the current time of year, to hunt a leopard from a blind, instead save my money, maybe hunt some other smaller things and have a great time for my last few days and try to do a leopard over hounds at some undetermined point in the future. Blind hunting is not for me, I find it the less interesting option compared to a stalking and tracking hunt. Vaughan and Garth also agreed, they had noticed that this blind-hunting business was not my cup of tea. As soon as we had decided to quit the leopard hunting business, the camp felt like a weight had been lifted.

As the weather was cleaning up, we were going to adventure out to a secret fishing spot from their youth and try and see if we could land any catfish. It was located along a stretch of river inside the conservancy and no one had been there in a while, as we had to ask the guys to cut a path through the overgrown “road”, to get the truck through.

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Arriving there, with the water gently flowing in the river and all the green around, we thought we had been transported to another area of the country and would see hippos and crocodiles floating by any time now. It was truly a most magnificent little corner of paradise there and using some of the entrails from various doves and go-away birds we had shot that morning, we sat out to do some fishing.

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No crocs or hippos were there of course, but at some point, someone could have fooled me, when a huge monitor lizard came from the depths to have a look at us, before getting out of dodge. We spent a few hours there, happy to soak up some warm sunlight on the warm rocks and feel the pressure of the last few days float away. Eventually, we called it a day and returned to camp. On the way back, we noticed a group of zebras and next to them some impala, with one monster ram between them. Jumping out of the truck, I tried to stalk them on my own, with Garth following at a distance. It would be great if I could show them once how it was done! But all kidding aside, it felt nice to know that Vaughan and Garth had sufficient trust in me, that they could let me try and start a stalk on my own, without their direct supervision.

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Alas, it was not meant to be, because after about 100 meters I felt a distinctive breeze on my neck and it wasn’t long before the impala vanished into the bush. Garth and Mlillo had joined me by then and we tried to continue the stalk and track them, but the impala had seen enough of us and disappeared. I hope on future hunts that I will again be in a position of having gained sufficiently the confidence of other PH’s, to redo this. It was very enjoyable for once not to be following another man’s butt into the bush, but having to think myself on how and when and where to move. It felt much more like hunting.

Back to the Land Cruiser, direction camp, with night falling around us. Driving into Marshlands, we suddenly spotted some eyes in a tree, a genet. Garth and I jumped from the truck with the .22 rifle and tried to stalk it while it was running and jumping away. Although I had the .22 in my shoulder a few times and even attempted a shot (which was a clear miss) I could not seal the deal. Back on the cruiser, we went for the last few hundred meters to camp. At the last turn in the road, only 100m from my lodgings, there was again a drumroll on the roof of the cab. Garth had spotted yet another genet. This one was sitting still high up in the tree. Through the shadows, all I could see were the eyes reflecting the light from the flashlight. I aimed carefully and got him through the right eye, he fell out of the tree like a sack of bricks. The .22 had only grazed the brain, so I put in an additional heart shot to speed up the passing. It turned out to be one very big male large-spotted genet. We had a few pictures and handed the genet over to the skinner for a full body mount. Reflecting on this hunt, I must admit that this was the first time I had a tinge of regret for having shot at this animal. Genets are beautiful little creatures with a furry tail almost as long as themselves. They look like they are a cross between a leopard and a raccoon, with spots on their body and a ringed tail. There are small-spotted and large-spotted genets. The small-spotted have a white-tipped tail and have as their names says, smaller spots on their body. While the large-spotted genet has the dark-tipped tail. They are little carnivores of the night, superbly agile, and are the only cat that can stand on their hind legs. They eat mostly rodents and insects. As I mentioned, I felt a tinge of regret after having shot this elegant little creature. I think I would have preferred to see it jump and run around instead of being shot. Food for thought.

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Day 14 – 3/11/2022 – The pressure is off​


Without any more pressure to check baits for leopard signs and having sent the Parks Ranger home, we set out to see if we could connect on some pigs. Up until now, we had tried multiple times to outsmart both bushpig and warthog, but each time they eluded us. It was about time to get some bacon back home. In the morning Paradzai had told us he had spotted a nice warthog down in the fields, so around 7:00 off we went in that direction, with the three Jack Russel’s in tow. Mlilo, Junior, and Seda quickly got on the tracks and we followed step by step, observing how they worked their magic. At some points, when Vaughan had a suspicion of the direction, we would leapfrog ahead, trying to keep the pace up. However most of the time we would lose the track and then have to wait for the trackers to catch up again. The spoor took us through a huge semi-circle and we realized we had been had. The warthog must have spotted us from a distance, and upon seeing us approach he circled around to get to our back, got our wind in the process, and subsequently disappeared in the bush.

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After having tracked an hour or so the warthog tracks and having realized that this attempt would be fruitless, we went back to some tracks of bush pigs we had stumbled upon while tracking the warthog. Their path led in a straight line and seemed to be from last night, when after having fed in the vicinity of the lodge they traveled back to their den a few kilometres away. With the heat of the day rising, we started tracking this new spoor but we did not manage to catch up to them before their tracks led into the kopjes of a neighbouring property. The heat had been beating on our heads all along during the track, so we were glad to get picked up by the truck to get back to camp.

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While arriving there, together with the midday heat, it started feeling heavy again and rain clouds were gathering around. As this would be keeping animals from moving, we decided to spend our afternoon at a nearby pond, trying to catch some fish. Not very successfully however, but a beautiful evening nonetheless when the sun pierced the clouds just before setting.

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Day 15 – 4/11/2023 – Pigs!​


With both the warthog and the bushpig giving us the slip the day before, we had to show them who was boss. So, we got up bright and early, and around 7:00 we set out to find some bush pig tracks. There was a suspicion that at least one sounder of bush pigs was retiring in some known kopjes during the day. The plan was to circle these kopjes, so we could pick up their tracks and then follow them into the kopje towards their den. Just like the day before, by 10:00 the sun was again testing our resistance to sunburn. Vaughan, Garth, and I were on edge, following the trackers silently with our rifles at the ready, prepared to react quickly if they would suddenly come out from behind a bush or rocky hole.

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The tracking went well and we found where they had milled about, uprooting some small shrubs and trees, to get to their roots. After this snack, their tracks led into one of the kopjes. As we did not yet know exactly in which one of the two hills their den was, we decided to change the tracking hunt into a driven hunt. Vaughan, Garth, and I posted ourselves at the foot of one of the kopjes in a haphazard gun line, overlooking a dry pan between the two kopjes. Meanwhile, the trackers and the Jack Russels would walk around, coming back from where we started, they would climb the two kopjes at the same time and drive the bush pig’s out of their den, hopefully towards our lap.

We tried this a couple of times on different kopjes, but without much success, despite the best efforts of the trackers and the dogs. Everyone came back down after the last try, and we assembled down in the valley. It was around 11:30 now and had a war counsel on what to do next. With the temperatures rising again above 40 degrees Celsius, we were about to call it off for the morning, to try again in the afternoon. While we were discussing this, the dogs had been milling around the trackers and us, when suddenly Kanka, one of the Jack Russels, sped off investigating some bush 25m from where we had been kicking about.

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As we all were feeling like we were getting boiled alive under the sun, contemplating how to best get back to the truck, we weren’t ready at all for what would follow. Upon reaching the bush, Kanka’s yipping changed to a higher pitch, and just as we started to realize that he might have found something we saw a big black shadow lifting itself from the long grass and sprinting away. “Bush Pig!” yelled Garth and we all started sprinting with our rifles in our hands, trying to keep within distance of the howling Kanka, who was hot on the heels of a big boar. After hours of being silent and keeping still, the air was suddenly filled with growls, barking, men yelling and me huffing and puffing behind Garth.

Vaughan had long since been lost from our sight as he had followed the tracks in a different direction than us. Astonishingly, there had not been just one bush pig hiding in plain sight right next to us, but the whole sounder!

For the next hour and a half, under the sweltering sun, Garth and I alternated running with fast-paced walking, trying to keep up with the ever-more distant yipping of the Jack Russels, but utterly failing to do so. Trying to outrun a pack of bush pigs being chased by a Jack Russel was perhaps just a bit optimistic on our part. At some point, having completely lost all sense of direction, we happened upon a dirt road and actually could see the truck in the far-off distance. We walked over there, to find Vaughan sitting easy and waiting for us. Although Garth and I weren’t aware of this, it had stopped being a bush pig chase about an hour ago and now we were just trying to get all three dogs back. Kanka was the last one still missing, and the trackers had difficulty following its tracks. While we were drinking a few liters of water to aid our parched throats, the message came over the radio that the trackers had found Kanka and everyone fell back to the truck, sharing in some cool drinks. Garth took off his hat, threw it upside down in the road, and filled it with water for the dogs to drink, as they too were getting to the edge of their limits. The pigs emerged victorious yet again.

The heat was stifling and we were all exhausted and would welcome a nice late lunch. Luckily, once we had driven back to camp, Francis had prepared one of the camp favourites, zebra schnitzel with French fries. As we were enjoying our lunch and cooling off under the shade of the thatch roof, Vaughan suddenly asked “Where are the binos?”. “What are those spots down in the valley?”. A bit of a shuffle ensued, trying to find the closest bino and behold, two warthogs were munching on some grubs in a small open space! One of them looked pretty decent, as we could even see ivory from such a far distance. They were about 200 meters down and about 1km away from the lodge. While we continued finishing the food on our plates, we kept an eye on them. Once we finished, they were still hanging around where we had spotted them. I retrieved the optic for the 7mm, that I had left behind in camp when chasing bush pig that morning and Garth and I jumped in his truck.

A frantic drive down the hill to get in their vicinity took us about 15 minutes, and we stopped just short of a gully that ran parallel to the location of the warthogs. There was a thicket between us and where we estimated the warthogs to be. We used the gully to get as close as possible and then went into the copse of trees to get them in our sights. We were about 80 meters away and it was quite obvious to even me which one of the two kneeling pigs would be of interest. Leaning on a tree, I found a stable footing. Meanwhile, from the lodge, Vaughan could see the proceedings.

Getting the final approval from Garth and his confirmation that I had the right one in sight I breathed gently out and the pig came down as if struck by lightning. We ran up to him, his body full of ticks and plenty of grey hairs and bald spots. As he was still on his way out, I gave him a merci shot and Garth went back to get the truck. What a dandy of an old warthog! We brought him back to the lodge for some pictures on the lawn and though I did not know it yet, this warthog would be the last animal I would be sending to the salt.

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After all the effort, the many kilometers walked and sweat shed, trying to get the upper hand on a pig, who would have thought we would be shooting one over lunch!

That afternoon with the storm clouds gathering , preparing yet again for another storm, we went down to the pan to get some fish. Francis had a nice starter of crumbed and fried fish bits planned for tonight, for which he was still lacking the fish. We were happy to oblige!

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With the cloud cover, swarms of flying termites were falling into the water and the fish were showing a lot of activity. Even though we were not catching much, we had so much fun that we did not notice the thunder and lightning get on top of us. When the lightning suddenly struck some power lines about 100m from us, we called it a day. No point in getting electrocuted now. Luckily, we had caught a few fish, just enough so Francis could fry us those crumbed fish bits.

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Day 16 – 5/11/2023 – Bottom feeders​


For the one but last day of my trip to Zimbabwe, and also the one but last day of hunting that would happen this season on Marshlands, as we still had the fishing boat in camp, Vaughan organized another fishing expedition. The target would be to go for large bass, over at Shishani Lake. At 6:00 we got up, to leave camp around 7:00, with the truck, trailer, and boat, everywhere loaded to the gills with equipment for a day of fishing far from home. As it was promising to be another scorcher today, we luckily did not forget to bring the sunscreen as well.

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Upon arrival at Shishani, it was still quite cold, but the guys prepared everything rapidly, and soon Vaughan, Garth, and I were speeding along the shores trying to find a good spot. Having had a bit of practice in the last two weeks, the casting came a bit quicker to me, but my luck was not. Despite numerous casts and a few lures lost, I did not seem to be able to connect. Garth and Vaughan were doing a bit better than I, but not at all what we were used to catching in a few hours, in the other places. Garth did manage to reel in a rather nice catfish. Once this one was in the boat, we made our way back to the truck, where the guys had started a fire in the meantime.

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Although the fishing gods had not been smiling upon us that day, luckily there was a backup plan in the form of duiker meat that we could cook on the fire, as well as the catfish. But first, we needed to get the meat of the catfish. With some clamps and hooks, he was strung up on the closest tree. Then came the matter of killing it, as it was still very much alive as it had spent its time in the hold, nicely oxygenated with the water coming into the boat. With their thick skull and overall very hardy nature, I learned that killing a catfish is something that even 2 veteran Zimbabwean PHs find a daunting task and would rather leave to one of the trackers. I can neither confirm nor deny, if at some point a .22 was used, so at least the catfish would have the decency of keeping still while it was being butchered.

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Eventually, the steaks of catfish were cooking next to the duiker meat, while the guys were preparing the always present Sadza. It was sweltering hot, even though we were finding some refuge under the trees. Unfortunately, with the proximity of the water, and being under the trees, we soon got stung on all sides by mosquitos, mopani flies, and all other manner of flying and stinging beasts. Luckily the beer was cool and while we were waiting for the meat to get ready, each of us flapping around with our hats, all feeling a bit miserable, Garth looked around and back at the meat: “Truly a bunch of bottom feeders” he exclaimed. We all burst into laughter. Both the duiker and the catfish are obvious bottom feeders, contenting themselves with whatever they can find. But perhaps Garth did not have the meat in mind when he looked around and saw us all in our misery with the mopani flies.

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In honesty, both the duiker and the catfish were not the culinary highlights of the trip. The catfish especially was quite muddy in its taste.

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To get away from the mopani flies, we did not have a siesta under the trees, but immediately set off on the boat again. Hoping to have more luck in the afternoon. However, this meant exchanging the annoying biting insects, for the searing hot midday sun. With no clouds above us, and the boat and us likely standing out like sore thumbs on the water surface, the fish refused to bite. If I recall correctly, not one more fish was caught the entire afternoon.

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By the time we made our way back to the truck, we were feeling properly cooked and burnt. We loaded everything back on the truck and the trailer and with a glorious evening sun setting, we made our way back to Marshlands.



Day 17 – 6/11/2022 – Family time​


Since my last day with Mapassa Safaris was coincidentally a Sunday, and the very last day of the season on Marshland’s, Vaughan had arranged for his wife and son to join us over lunch and spend a quality afternoon fishing the nearby pan.

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After breakfast, to warm up our legs, we thought to go out for a little stroll. A klippie had been spotted and Vaughan was offering a deal on it, if we could get it of course. Our feet took us to a koppie where we found some old cave paintings from the original hunter-gatherers from the region. No klipspringer could be found however, so we returned back to the lodge for some serious business. The second tusk had finally, the day before, gotten out of the skull of my elephant, and on my very last day we would do the weighing. Not the official one, mind you, with Zimbabwean officials, but just between us, to close of the safari.

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Everyone was gathered around and the tusks were displayed. There were high hopes, due to the high age of the elephant and the thick bases that we would still be able to breach the 50lbs a side, despite both tusks having been broken off. We each got the opportunity to pick up the tusks and get a feel for them. After which Vaughan noted our estimates on a piece of paper. Estimates ranged from 40 lbs on the lightest tusk to 52 lbs on the heaviest tusk. When everyone had given their opinion, together with lots of laughter, and jesting that one or the other may have had a background in poaching, the tusks were put to the scale. The right-hand tusk weighed in at 44 pounds, the outside curve was 50.5 inches while the inside curve was 42 inches, with the circumference at the lip being 17.5 inches. The left-hand tusk weighed in at 48 pounds, with a total length on the outside of the tusk of 53 inches, an inside curve of 43 inches, and a circumference at the lip of 17 ¾ inches. An excellent trophy for this region, where the average is usually more around 35-40lbs. I could not have been happier with the result. A proper, old bull elephant, with heavy ivory, broken tusks, and feet that showed the many 1000s of miles walked in his lifetime.

After the weighing moment, we got ready for lunch, as we were expecting Vaughan’s wife and their son to arrive. I believe he was around 7 years old. After giving them some space, we all met, in and around the common area, exchanging greetings. Vaughan’s wife turned out to be a professional guide herself. But since the arrival of their son, she had been focusing on getting a more school-hour-friendly career going. Especially the tourism and hospitality sector around Victoria Falls seems attractive.

After the sumptuous lunch of zebra steaks, we all walked down to the pan, to spend some hours in tranquility in the afternoon sun, fishing away. Vaughan wanted to share a few last moments on Marshlands with his son, showing him how to fish and spending some quality time together.

When a neighbour of Marshlands started talking about removing the fences between their properties to create an even larger common property, it became a natural conclusion for Vaughan to also propose to the neighbour to buy Marshlands from him. Having two bosses for the terrain would not have made sense anyway. This had all been decided a few weeks before my arrival. I would have the dubious honour of being the very last client to ever pass by Marshlands with Mapassa Safaris. In fact, that Sunday was likely the last time Vaughan’s son would ever be on the property as Garth and Vaughan were preparing to move towards Victoria Falls with their families the next days. There was a tinge of sadness that day as it was for everyone the end of a story.

But I did have the honour to watch a father and son spending time together fishing. As a young father myself and far from my family, this was touching. Especially, when a bit later Vaughan put out a cardboard box and did some first shooting lessons with the .22. I dream of one day being able to do the same with my children. I never had that.

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We spent a very unrushed and happy last evening all together. Fishing, having a beer and seeing the sun go down in the sky. Garth and Vaughan were having fun trying to fish with small balls of sadza, but without much luck. I caught my biggest bass of the past two weeks, in perhaps only 15cm of water.

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Eventually, Vaughan’s wife and their son had to leave and it was just Garth, Vaughan, and I, silently fishing, lost in our memories, sometimes yelling out when we got a bite. The plan was to take a last picture with the sunset of me with all the trophies, but we had forgotten a bit about timing, so we had to rush back to the lodge and get the guys to bring all the skulls to the front, so we would have the setting sun in the picture. I must admit it was quite a procession seeing them all file past, one holding a tusk on his shoulder, the other a skull. Garth made some great photos that I’ll be able to treasure for a very long time.

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Once all the pictures were taken, we joined around the campfire for a last drink, with some fresh fish bits. It was also the time to thank the staff. Previously over lunch, I had asked Vaughan to write down who from the staff I should include in the tips as well as what kinds of amounts he would recommend. There were 11 people on the list, over whom I divided up $2000, as per the amounts indicated by Vaughan. For Garth and Vaughan, I chose to give each the same amount, especially with Garth having produced a video of my adventure there. This to the sum of $1500 each. I also gave all the most important trackers and skinners each a brand-new Scandinavian knife. The binos and batteries I had brought over for Vaughan, instead of having him pay me back for this, I just made a gift out of them as well. Vaughan also suggested, that if I was not overly attached to my second pair of hunting boots, then Junior could use some to replace his old sports shoes. I did this gladly. Everyone was appreciative and the mood was light.

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This night the flying ants were out in force, even more so than usual. As lights were attracting them, and Vaughan wanted to get a reserve of them going for future fishing opportunities, he had a tarp fetched, that was held in front of the land cruiser, and then they would switch on the high beams. The termites would swarm in en-masse, and everyone helped out catching them and throwing them in a bucket to collect. Apparently collecting them, then freezing them, would keep them fresh for use another day.

Another delicious dinner later and we made off to bed, for our last night together at Marshlands.

Day 18 – 7/11/2022 – Departure​


Having not brought a lot of luggage, the packing went quite fast, and after the by-now obligatory breakfast omelet, we set off to the city. We just had time to pass by Collett’s quickly so I could pick up some elephant hair bracelets, have Vaughan do a quick doctor's appointment, and finish it with a good coffee, before being dropped off at the airport again.

For my return trip, I did not even bother going in civilian clothing. Shorts, bush shirt, Courteney’s, I must have made quite a sight for the other passengers. Going through the check-in process, as was the case when I arrived, there was someone present to help with the process. However, he was not always around, which meant that at one point when the officials would be checking the serial numbers, I found myself in a 2 by 3 m backroom. Sandbags, some of them spilling sand on the floor, a rinky-dinky table in the back, on which my Americase was placed, and apart from myself and two officials, about 10 baggage handlers in the room. There was no air in the room, no windows, no ventilation, just a door out to the tarmac. Once the serial numbers were checked, all attention was on me when the officials started to leave. They obviously wanted some compensation for their services, but this was rather unnerving, being alone in that backroom with 10 other people, all staring while I was looking for a bill. I only had a 50 USD bill left, and due to the amount of people, I decided it was perhaps for the best if I gave it to them, instead of the official who had helped me through the whole check-in procedure and who had told me he would come by and find me later in the lobby. I later explained this to him and although he was not too happy about it, he understood my predicament and made me promise that next time I would be in Zimbabwe, I would not forget him.

The short flight to Johannesburg was quite uneventful, apart from the fact that upon arrival there we had a bit of trouble finding where they had put my bags. Instead of having the regular check-in bag with the others on the carousel, it had been delivered to the area where the gun cases were. The gun cases were in the meantime already picked up to get checked by SAPS, but my check-in bag was still waiting for me.

Once we got all the bags checked in, I met up with @Frederik . Another member from the AfricaHunting forum that I had chatted with in the past. He made the effort to come over to the airport to keep me company until my flight to Belgium would leave. We had a few hours where I got to share all the pictures and adventures with a fellow hunter. The first person I got to speak to, who was not present, but actually understood what kind of feat this elephant hunt was. We had a great few hours together, chatting about over drinks. He had even brought me a few old issues of Big Bore Magazine. A great guy all around.

But then came my flight to Belgium and the adventure was fully over. The flight was uneventful and after a short Uber drive home, it was finally time to embrace my wife and our daughter.

THE END
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AFTERMATH

I am now writing in October of 2024, exactly 2 years after I left Belgium on this adventure. End of 2023, the Belgian Government announced that they would no longer allow the importation of trophies of Lion, Leopard, Elephant and a few other iconic animals. From January 2024 no new CITES import permit's where being delivered. Luckily my pre-CITES had been valid until May of 2024. Pressuring Collett's to get the elephant trophies on-time out of Zimbabwe and on its way was stressful. But in the end all turned out okay. I'm still waiting for all the other trophies. But all the elephant trophies are secure in my hands.

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For those interested, those little stumps looked like this, after the necessary drying:
Left Hand Tusk: 48 pounds, outside curve 53" , inside 43" , circumference at lip 17 3/4"
Right Hand Tusk: 44 pounds, outside curve 50.5" , inside 42" , circuference at lip 17.5"

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Very likely I am one of the last, if not the very last, hunter who imported legally and officially ivory from Africa. So though this trip was financially a big burden at my young age, this confirmed that it truly was a case of now or never.

Thanks to all AH members for their advice, their messages, encouragement (enablers!), that allowed me to go on this amazing trip. But especially thanks to @rookhawk, for introducing me to Vaughan and Garth from Mapassa. I'm convinced that we will find ourselves in the same camp with them, in the next two years!

V.
Just an absolutely incredible safari and write up my friend!!!! Your picture sitting between your two tusks is and always will be priceless!!!!
 
and now to continue and finish the story:

Day 13 – 2/11/2023 – Steenbok and a small leopard​


Waking up again to a grey sky, we set out to check baits. While on the road for the first bait in the corner of Marshlands, I suddenly saw movement ahead. Vaughan confirmed it to be a shootable steenbok, that was scurrying around in the bush. Off we went on a short stalk when we could suddenly spot him standing still, looking back at us. He did not feel too afraid as there was 70m of dense brush between us and we could only see him through a tunnel. The sticks went up quickly and the 7x64 delivered again. The last of the Tiny Ten that was available as a species on Marshlands! Some quick pictures and we continued doing our rounds of the bait.

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With the euphoria of the steenbok in the salt subsiding, depression sank in again. Still no sign of anything, not even a genet or caracal or bush pig visiting any of the baits. Even the lone brown hyena had not returned to “Hanging George”.

We started discussing the situation over lunch after we got back to camp. As the weather was still grey but improving, we took a bit longer lunch break during which Vaughan shared a video of a hunt last year on their concession, with some New Zeeland hunters. It was a very professionally made video, about a combined elephant and leopard hunt. However, this was a leopard-over-hounds hunt and the action and the adrenaline was palpable in the video.

There I made my decision, that if I ever would hunt leopard, I’d rather do it over hounds than from a blind. I said as much to Vaughan and Garth. I’d rather forego the very slim chance, due to the current time of year, to hunt a leopard from a blind, instead save my money, maybe hunt some other smaller things and have a great time for my last few days and try to do a leopard over hounds at some undetermined point in the future. Blind hunting is not for me, I find it the less interesting option compared to a stalking and tracking hunt. Vaughan and Garth also agreed, they had noticed that this blind-hunting business was not my cup of tea. As soon as we had decided to quit the leopard hunting business, the camp felt like a weight had been lifted.

As the weather was cleaning up, we were going to adventure out to a secret fishing spot from their youth and try and see if we could land any catfish. It was located along a stretch of river inside the conservancy and no one had been there in a while, as we had to ask the guys to cut a path through the overgrown “road”, to get the truck through.

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Arriving there, with the water gently flowing in the river and all the green around, we thought we had been transported to another area of the country and would see hippos and crocodiles floating by any time now. It was truly a most magnificent little corner of paradise there and using some of the entrails from various doves and go-away birds we had shot that morning, we sat out to do some fishing.

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No crocs or hippos were there of course, but at some point, someone could have fooled me, when a huge monitor lizard came from the depths to have a look at us, before getting out of dodge. We spent a few hours there, happy to soak up some warm sunlight on the warm rocks and feel the pressure of the last few days float away. Eventually, we called it a day and returned to camp. On the way back, we noticed a group of zebras and next to them some impala, with one monster ram between them. Jumping out of the truck, I tried to stalk them on my own, with Garth following at a distance. It would be great if I could show them once how it was done! But all kidding aside, it felt nice to know that Vaughan and Garth had sufficient trust in me, that they could let me try and start a stalk on my own, without their direct supervision.

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Alas, it was not meant to be, because after about 100 meters I felt a distinctive breeze on my neck and it wasn’t long before the impala vanished into the bush. Garth and Mlillo had joined me by then and we tried to continue the stalk and track them, but the impala had seen enough of us and disappeared. I hope on future hunts that I will again be in a position of having gained sufficiently the confidence of other PH’s, to redo this. It was very enjoyable for once not to be following another man’s butt into the bush, but having to think myself on how and when and where to move. It felt much more like hunting.

Back to the Land Cruiser, direction camp, with night falling around us. Driving into Marshlands, we suddenly spotted some eyes in a tree, a genet. Garth and I jumped from the truck with the .22 rifle and tried to stalk it while it was running and jumping away. Although I had the .22 in my shoulder a few times and even attempted a shot (which was a clear miss) I could not seal the deal. Back on the cruiser, we went for the last few hundred meters to camp. At the last turn in the road, only 100m from my lodgings, there was again a drumroll on the roof of the cab. Garth had spotted yet another genet. This one was sitting still high up in the tree. Through the shadows, all I could see were the eyes reflecting the light from the flashlight. I aimed carefully and got him through the right eye, he fell out of the tree like a sack of bricks. The .22 had only grazed the brain, so I put in an additional heart shot to speed up the passing. It turned out to be one very big male large-spotted genet. We had a few pictures and handed the genet over to the skinner for a full body mount. Reflecting on this hunt, I must admit that this was the first time I had a tinge of regret for having shot at this animal. Genets are beautiful little creatures with a furry tail almost as long as themselves. They look like they are a cross between a leopard and a raccoon, with spots on their body and a ringed tail. There are small-spotted and large-spotted genets. The small-spotted have a white-tipped tail and have as their names says, smaller spots on their body. While the large-spotted genet has the dark-tipped tail. They are little carnivores of the night, superbly agile, and are the only cat that can stand on their hind legs. They eat mostly rodents and insects. As I mentioned, I felt a tinge of regret after having shot this elegant little creature. I think I would have preferred to see it jump and run around instead of being shot. Food for thought.

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Day 14 – 3/11/2022 – The pressure is off​


Without any more pressure to check baits for leopard signs and having sent the Parks Ranger home, we set out to see if we could connect on some pigs. Up until now, we had tried multiple times to outsmart both bushpig and warthog, but each time they eluded us. It was about time to get some bacon back home. In the morning Paradzai had told us he had spotted a nice warthog down in the fields, so around 7:00 off we went in that direction, with the three Jack Russel’s in tow. Mlilo, Junior, and Seda quickly got on the tracks and we followed step by step, observing how they worked their magic. At some points, when Vaughan had a suspicion of the direction, we would leapfrog ahead, trying to keep the pace up. However most of the time we would lose the track and then have to wait for the trackers to catch up again. The spoor took us through a huge semi-circle and we realized we had been had. The warthog must have spotted us from a distance, and upon seeing us approach he circled around to get to our back, got our wind in the process, and subsequently disappeared in the bush.

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After having tracked an hour or so the warthog tracks and having realized that this attempt would be fruitless, we went back to some tracks of bush pigs we had stumbled upon while tracking the warthog. Their path led in a straight line and seemed to be from last night, when after having fed in the vicinity of the lodge they traveled back to their den a few kilometres away. With the heat of the day rising, we started tracking this new spoor but we did not manage to catch up to them before their tracks led into the kopjes of a neighbouring property. The heat had been beating on our heads all along during the track, so we were glad to get picked up by the truck to get back to camp.

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While arriving there, together with the midday heat, it started feeling heavy again and rain clouds were gathering around. As this would be keeping animals from moving, we decided to spend our afternoon at a nearby pond, trying to catch some fish. Not very successfully however, but a beautiful evening nonetheless when the sun pierced the clouds just before setting.

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Day 15 – 4/11/2023 – Pigs!​


With both the warthog and the bushpig giving us the slip the day before, we had to show them who was boss. So, we got up bright and early, and around 7:00 we set out to find some bush pig tracks. There was a suspicion that at least one sounder of bush pigs was retiring in some known kopjes during the day. The plan was to circle these kopjes, so we could pick up their tracks and then follow them into the kopje towards their den. Just like the day before, by 10:00 the sun was again testing our resistance to sunburn. Vaughan, Garth, and I were on edge, following the trackers silently with our rifles at the ready, prepared to react quickly if they would suddenly come out from behind a bush or rocky hole.

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The tracking went well and we found where they had milled about, uprooting some small shrubs and trees, to get to their roots. After this snack, their tracks led into one of the kopjes. As we did not yet know exactly in which one of the two hills their den was, we decided to change the tracking hunt into a driven hunt. Vaughan, Garth, and I posted ourselves at the foot of one of the kopjes in a haphazard gun line, overlooking a dry pan between the two kopjes. Meanwhile, the trackers and the Jack Russels would walk around, coming back from where we started, they would climb the two kopjes at the same time and drive the bush pig’s out of their den, hopefully towards our lap.

We tried this a couple of times on different kopjes, but without much success, despite the best efforts of the trackers and the dogs. Everyone came back down after the last try, and we assembled down in the valley. It was around 11:30 now and had a war counsel on what to do next. With the temperatures rising again above 40 degrees Celsius, we were about to call it off for the morning, to try again in the afternoon. While we were discussing this, the dogs had been milling around the trackers and us, when suddenly Kanka, one of the Jack Russels, sped off investigating some bush 25m from where we had been kicking about.

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As we all were feeling like we were getting boiled alive under the sun, contemplating how to best get back to the truck, we weren’t ready at all for what would follow. Upon reaching the bush, Kanka’s yipping changed to a higher pitch, and just as we started to realize that he might have found something we saw a big black shadow lifting itself from the long grass and sprinting away. “Bush Pig!” yelled Garth and we all started sprinting with our rifles in our hands, trying to keep within distance of the howling Kanka, who was hot on the heels of a big boar. After hours of being silent and keeping still, the air was suddenly filled with growls, barking, men yelling and me huffing and puffing behind Garth.

Vaughan had long since been lost from our sight as he had followed the tracks in a different direction than us. Astonishingly, there had not been just one bush pig hiding in plain sight right next to us, but the whole sounder!

For the next hour and a half, under the sweltering sun, Garth and I alternated running with fast-paced walking, trying to keep up with the ever-more distant yipping of the Jack Russels, but utterly failing to do so. Trying to outrun a pack of bush pigs being chased by a Jack Russel was perhaps just a bit optimistic on our part. At some point, having completely lost all sense of direction, we happened upon a dirt road and actually could see the truck in the far-off distance. We walked over there, to find Vaughan sitting easy and waiting for us. Although Garth and I weren’t aware of this, it had stopped being a bush pig chase about an hour ago and now we were just trying to get all three dogs back. Kanka was the last one still missing, and the trackers had difficulty following its tracks. While we were drinking a few liters of water to aid our parched throats, the message came over the radio that the trackers had found Kanka and everyone fell back to the truck, sharing in some cool drinks. Garth took off his hat, threw it upside down in the road, and filled it with water for the dogs to drink, as they too were getting to the edge of their limits. The pigs emerged victorious yet again.

The heat was stifling and we were all exhausted and would welcome a nice late lunch. Luckily, once we had driven back to camp, Francis had prepared one of the camp favourites, zebra schnitzel with French fries. As we were enjoying our lunch and cooling off under the shade of the thatch roof, Vaughan suddenly asked “Where are the binos?”. “What are those spots down in the valley?”. A bit of a shuffle ensued, trying to find the closest bino and behold, two warthogs were munching on some grubs in a small open space! One of them looked pretty decent, as we could even see ivory from such a far distance. They were about 200 meters down and about 1km away from the lodge. While we continued finishing the food on our plates, we kept an eye on them. Once we finished, they were still hanging around where we had spotted them. I retrieved the optic for the 7mm, that I had left behind in camp when chasing bush pig that morning and Garth and I jumped in his truck.

A frantic drive down the hill to get in their vicinity took us about 15 minutes, and we stopped just short of a gully that ran parallel to the location of the warthogs. There was a thicket between us and where we estimated the warthogs to be. We used the gully to get as close as possible and then went into the copse of trees to get them in our sights. We were about 80 meters away and it was quite obvious to even me which one of the two kneeling pigs would be of interest. Leaning on a tree, I found a stable footing. Meanwhile, from the lodge, Vaughan could see the proceedings.

Getting the final approval from Garth and his confirmation that I had the right one in sight I breathed gently out and the pig came down as if struck by lightning. We ran up to him, his body full of ticks and plenty of grey hairs and bald spots. As he was still on his way out, I gave him a merci shot and Garth went back to get the truck. What a dandy of an old warthog! We brought him back to the lodge for some pictures on the lawn and though I did not know it yet, this warthog would be the last animal I would be sending to the salt.

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After all the effort, the many kilometers walked and sweat shed, trying to get the upper hand on a pig, who would have thought we would be shooting one over lunch!

That afternoon with the storm clouds gathering , preparing yet again for another storm, we went down to the pan to get some fish. Francis had a nice starter of crumbed and fried fish bits planned for tonight, for which he was still lacking the fish. We were happy to oblige!

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With the cloud cover, swarms of flying termites were falling into the water and the fish were showing a lot of activity. Even though we were not catching much, we had so much fun that we did not notice the thunder and lightning get on top of us. When the lightning suddenly struck some power lines about 100m from us, we called it a day. No point in getting electrocuted now. Luckily, we had caught a few fish, just enough so Francis could fry us those crumbed fish bits.

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Day 16 – 5/11/2023 – Bottom feeders​


For the one but last day of my trip to Zimbabwe, and also the one but last day of hunting that would happen this season on Marshlands, as we still had the fishing boat in camp, Vaughan organized another fishing expedition. The target would be to go for large bass, over at Shishani Lake. At 6:00 we got up, to leave camp around 7:00, with the truck, trailer, and boat, everywhere loaded to the gills with equipment for a day of fishing far from home. As it was promising to be another scorcher today, we luckily did not forget to bring the sunscreen as well.

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Upon arrival at Shishani, it was still quite cold, but the guys prepared everything rapidly, and soon Vaughan, Garth, and I were speeding along the shores trying to find a good spot. Having had a bit of practice in the last two weeks, the casting came a bit quicker to me, but my luck was not. Despite numerous casts and a few lures lost, I did not seem to be able to connect. Garth and Vaughan were doing a bit better than I, but not at all what we were used to catching in a few hours, in the other places. Garth did manage to reel in a rather nice catfish. Once this one was in the boat, we made our way back to the truck, where the guys had started a fire in the meantime.

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Although the fishing gods had not been smiling upon us that day, luckily there was a backup plan in the form of duiker meat that we could cook on the fire, as well as the catfish. But first, we needed to get the meat of the catfish. With some clamps and hooks, he was strung up on the closest tree. Then came the matter of killing it, as it was still very much alive as it had spent its time in the hold, nicely oxygenated with the water coming into the boat. With their thick skull and overall very hardy nature, I learned that killing a catfish is something that even 2 veteran Zimbabwean PHs find a daunting task and would rather leave to one of the trackers. I can neither confirm nor deny, if at some point a .22 was used, so at least the catfish would have the decency of keeping still while it was being butchered.

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Eventually, the steaks of catfish were cooking next to the duiker meat, while the guys were preparing the always present Sadza. It was sweltering hot, even though we were finding some refuge under the trees. Unfortunately, with the proximity of the water, and being under the trees, we soon got stung on all sides by mosquitos, mopani flies, and all other manner of flying and stinging beasts. Luckily the beer was cool and while we were waiting for the meat to get ready, each of us flapping around with our hats, all feeling a bit miserable, Garth looked around and back at the meat: “Truly a bunch of bottom feeders” he exclaimed. We all burst into laughter. Both the duiker and the catfish are obvious bottom feeders, contenting themselves with whatever they can find. But perhaps Garth did not have the meat in mind when he looked around and saw us all in our misery with the mopani flies.

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In honesty, both the duiker and the catfish were not the culinary highlights of the trip. The catfish especially was quite muddy in its taste.

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To get away from the mopani flies, we did not have a siesta under the trees, but immediately set off on the boat again. Hoping to have more luck in the afternoon. However, this meant exchanging the annoying biting insects, for the searing hot midday sun. With no clouds above us, and the boat and us likely standing out like sore thumbs on the water surface, the fish refused to bite. If I recall correctly, not one more fish was caught the entire afternoon.

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By the time we made our way back to the truck, we were feeling properly cooked and burnt. We loaded everything back on the truck and the trailer and with a glorious evening sun setting, we made our way back to Marshlands.



Day 17 – 6/11/2022 – Family time​


Since my last day with Mapassa Safaris was coincidentally a Sunday, and the very last day of the season on Marshland’s, Vaughan had arranged for his wife and son to join us over lunch and spend a quality afternoon fishing the nearby pan.

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After breakfast, to warm up our legs, we thought to go out for a little stroll. A klippie had been spotted and Vaughan was offering a deal on it, if we could get it of course. Our feet took us to a koppie where we found some old cave paintings from the original hunter-gatherers from the region. No klipspringer could be found however, so we returned back to the lodge for some serious business. The second tusk had finally, the day before, gotten out of the skull of my elephant, and on my very last day we would do the weighing. Not the official one, mind you, with Zimbabwean officials, but just between us, to close of the safari.

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Everyone was gathered around and the tusks were displayed. There were high hopes, due to the high age of the elephant and the thick bases that we would still be able to breach the 50lbs a side, despite both tusks having been broken off. We each got the opportunity to pick up the tusks and get a feel for them. After which Vaughan noted our estimates on a piece of paper. Estimates ranged from 40 lbs on the lightest tusk to 52 lbs on the heaviest tusk. When everyone had given their opinion, together with lots of laughter, and jesting that one or the other may have had a background in poaching, the tusks were put to the scale. The right-hand tusk weighed in at 44 pounds, the outside curve was 50.5 inches while the inside curve was 42 inches, with the circumference at the lip being 17.5 inches. The left-hand tusk weighed in at 48 pounds, with a total length on the outside of the tusk of 53 inches, an inside curve of 43 inches, and a circumference at the lip of 17 ¾ inches. An excellent trophy for this region, where the average is usually more around 35-40lbs. I could not have been happier with the result. A proper, old bull elephant, with heavy ivory, broken tusks, and feet that showed the many 1000s of miles walked in his lifetime.

After the weighing moment, we got ready for lunch, as we were expecting Vaughan’s wife and their son to arrive. I believe he was around 7 years old. After giving them some space, we all met, in and around the common area, exchanging greetings. Vaughan’s wife turned out to be a professional guide herself. But since the arrival of their son, she had been focusing on getting a more school-hour-friendly career going. Especially the tourism and hospitality sector around Victoria Falls seems attractive.

After the sumptuous lunch of zebra steaks, we all walked down to the pan, to spend some hours in tranquility in the afternoon sun, fishing away. Vaughan wanted to share a few last moments on Marshlands with his son, showing him how to fish and spending some quality time together.

When a neighbour of Marshlands started talking about removing the fences between their properties to create an even larger common property, it became a natural conclusion for Vaughan to also propose to the neighbour to buy Marshlands from him. Having two bosses for the terrain would not have made sense anyway. This had all been decided a few weeks before my arrival. I would have the dubious honour of being the very last client to ever pass by Marshlands with Mapassa Safaris. In fact, that Sunday was likely the last time Vaughan’s son would ever be on the property as Garth and Vaughan were preparing to move towards Victoria Falls with their families the next days. There was a tinge of sadness that day as it was for everyone the end of a story.

But I did have the honour to watch a father and son spending time together fishing. As a young father myself and far from my family, this was touching. Especially, when a bit later Vaughan put out a cardboard box and did some first shooting lessons with the .22. I dream of one day being able to do the same with my children. I never had that.

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We spent a very unrushed and happy last evening all together. Fishing, having a beer and seeing the sun go down in the sky. Garth and Vaughan were having fun trying to fish with small balls of sadza, but without much luck. I caught my biggest bass of the past two weeks, in perhaps only 15cm of water.

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Eventually, Vaughan’s wife and their son had to leave and it was just Garth, Vaughan, and I, silently fishing, lost in our memories, sometimes yelling out when we got a bite. The plan was to take a last picture with the sunset of me with all the trophies, but we had forgotten a bit about timing, so we had to rush back to the lodge and get the guys to bring all the skulls to the front, so we would have the setting sun in the picture. I must admit it was quite a procession seeing them all file past, one holding a tusk on his shoulder, the other a skull. Garth made some great photos that I’ll be able to treasure for a very long time.

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Once all the pictures were taken, we joined around the campfire for a last drink, with some fresh fish bits. It was also the time to thank the staff. Previously over lunch, I had asked Vaughan to write down who from the staff I should include in the tips as well as what kinds of amounts he would recommend. There were 11 people on the list, over whom I divided up $2000, as per the amounts indicated by Vaughan. For Garth and Vaughan, I chose to give each the same amount, especially with Garth having produced a video of my adventure there. This to the sum of $1500 each. I also gave all the most important trackers and skinners each a brand-new Scandinavian knife. The binos and batteries I had brought over for Vaughan, instead of having him pay me back for this, I just made a gift out of them as well. Vaughan also suggested, that if I was not overly attached to my second pair of hunting boots, then Junior could use some to replace his old sports shoes. I did this gladly. Everyone was appreciative and the mood was light.

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This night the flying ants were out in force, even more so than usual. As lights were attracting them, and Vaughan wanted to get a reserve of them going for future fishing opportunities, he had a tarp fetched, that was held in front of the land cruiser, and then they would switch on the high beams. The termites would swarm in en-masse, and everyone helped out catching them and throwing them in a bucket to collect. Apparently collecting them, then freezing them, would keep them fresh for use another day.

Another delicious dinner later and we made off to bed, for our last night together at Marshlands.

Day 18 – 7/11/2022 – Departure​


Having not brought a lot of luggage, the packing went quite fast, and after the by-now obligatory breakfast omelet, we set off to the city. We just had time to pass by Collett’s quickly so I could pick up some elephant hair bracelets, have Vaughan do a quick doctor's appointment, and finish it with a good coffee, before being dropped off at the airport again.

For my return trip, I did not even bother going in civilian clothing. Shorts, bush shirt, Courteney’s, I must have made quite a sight for the other passengers. Going through the check-in process, as was the case when I arrived, there was someone present to help with the process. However, he was not always around, which meant that at one point when the officials would be checking the serial numbers, I found myself in a 2 by 3 m backroom. Sandbags, some of them spilling sand on the floor, a rinky-dinky table in the back, on which my Americase was placed, and apart from myself and two officials, about 10 baggage handlers in the room. There was no air in the room, no windows, no ventilation, just a door out to the tarmac. Once the serial numbers were checked, all attention was on me when the officials started to leave. They obviously wanted some compensation for their services, but this was rather unnerving, being alone in that backroom with 10 other people, all staring while I was looking for a bill. I only had a 50 USD bill left, and due to the amount of people, I decided it was perhaps for the best if I gave it to them, instead of the official who had helped me through the whole check-in procedure and who had told me he would come by and find me later in the lobby. I later explained this to him and although he was not too happy about it, he understood my predicament and made me promise that next time I would be in Zimbabwe, I would not forget him.

The short flight to Johannesburg was quite uneventful, apart from the fact that upon arrival there we had a bit of trouble finding where they had put my bags. Instead of having the regular check-in bag with the others on the carousel, it had been delivered to the area where the gun cases were. The gun cases were in the meantime already picked up to get checked by SAPS, but my check-in bag was still waiting for me.

Once we got all the bags checked in, I met up with @Frederik . Another member from the AfricaHunting forum that I had chatted with in the past. He made the effort to come over to the airport to keep me company until my flight to Belgium would leave. We had a few hours where I got to share all the pictures and adventures with a fellow hunter. The first person I got to speak to, who was not present, but actually understood what kind of feat this elephant hunt was. We had a great few hours together, chatting about over drinks. He had even brought me a few old issues of Big Bore Magazine. A great guy all around.

But then came my flight to Belgium and the adventure was fully over. The flight was uneventful and after a short Uber drive home, it was finally time to embrace my wife and our daughter.

THE END
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AFTERMATH

I am now writing in October of 2024, exactly 2 years after I left Belgium on this adventure. End of 2023, the Belgian Government announced that they would no longer allow the importation of trophies of Lion, Leopard, Elephant and a few other iconic animals. From January 2024 no new CITES import permit's where being delivered. Luckily my pre-CITES had been valid until May of 2024. Pressuring Collett's to get the elephant trophies on-time out of Zimbabwe and on its way was stressful. But in the end all turned out okay. I'm still waiting for all the other trophies. But all the elephant trophies are secure in my hands.

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For those interested, those little stumps looked like this, after the necessary drying:
Left Hand Tusk: 48 pounds, outside curve 53" , inside 43" , circumference at lip 17 3/4"
Right Hand Tusk: 44 pounds, outside curve 50.5" , inside 42" , circuference at lip 17.5"

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Very likely I am one of the last, if not the very last, hunter who imported legally and officially ivory from Africa. So though this trip was financially a big burden at my young age, this confirmed that it truly was a case of now or never.

Thanks to all AH members for their advice, their messages, encouragement (enablers!), that allowed me to go on this amazing trip. But especially thanks to @rookhawk, for introducing me to Vaughan and Garth from Mapassa. I'm convinced that we will find ourselves in the same camp with them, in the next two years!

V.
May I also say nice job on your tipping decisions…match my thoughts exactly
 
Excellent hunt and very entertaining report. Thank you for taking us along, enjoyed every bit of it. Congratulations on getting your elephant. BTW, those bass look exactly like our largemouth bass.

BTW, what is that piece between the two tusks, is that part of your ele also?
 
Excellent hunt and very entertaining report. Thank you for taking us along, enjoyed every bit of it. Congratulations on getting your elephant. BTW, those bass look exactly like our largemouth bass.

BTW, what is that piece between the two tusks, is that part of your ele also?
Thanks @PARA45

between the tusks is a piece of art, bronze antelopes on a marble base, that I picked up at an auction a while ago. In front of it are the two M6 molars (their last pair). They make for interesting table discussions, and underline again that this was a very old elephant.
 
Thanks @PARA45

between the tusks is a piece of art, bronze antelopes on a marble base, that I picked up at an auction a while ago. In front of it are the two M6 molars (their last pair). They make for interesting table discussions, and underline again that this was a very old elephant.
Yes, the molars are the pieces I was referring too. Thank you for clarification, and yes that definitely makes it an interesting piece of conversation, and another way to honor this old warrior. Nicely done! BTW, I meant to say it earlier, love the display! (y) (y)
 

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