416WSM on Siamese Mauser & 416/348Ackley Improved on Martini

[BlueFlyer]

When I rust blued my 9.3X64B and 222Rimmed on a Martini Cadet I left the solution on overnight. This created a deep matt blue that is very durable.
I did a bit more reading of the Neidner Cold Bluing process. They only left the solution on for 3hrs and completed 2 cycles per day. They repeated up to 12 cycles.
The Omark 44 barreled action (top) had 4 cycles over the weekend. Below it is the raw 416WSM in white as a comparison. The short cycles is producing a gloss/satin finish, as it does not etch the base metal as deeply.

I also did the cross bolt screws for the 416WSM at the same time.

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

The longer the solution is on the more it reacts, causing the rusting, which in turn is etching or pitting the surface, giving a deep Matt finish, I do two rust /boil cycles a day for as many days as I need to get an even deep blue over the entire firearm. This may take longer but gives a glossier colour, it also helps to even out the colour as different steels with react at different rates. I don’t do much hot bluing anymore as I like the control rust bluing gives me
Gumpy

 

[BlueFlyer]

I don’t do much hot bluing anymore as I like the control rust bluing gives me

The chemicals used in hot bluing are much nastier. I would not be doing hot bluing in our kitchen.
I was working on a 5hr cycle over the weekend, which means the chemical was actively on the metal for about 4hrs.

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

The chemicals used in hot bluing are much nastier. I would not be doing hot bluing in our kitchen.
I was working on a 5hr cycle over the weekend, which means the chemical was actively on the metal for about 4hrs.

I’ve got burners and tanks on a stand, the vapour from hot bluing will rust metal so not the sort of thing to do inside unless you have a very understanding partner
Gumpy

 

[BlueFlyer]

Now I know it was a stupid idea but I gave it a shot!
Currently I am in Thaland for work. I travelled up to Bangkok for the weekend and decided to see if the local gun trade knew anything about Siamese Mausers and if there were any spare parts floating around.
All the gun shops are located South of the centre of Bangkok and clustered in one small area. Most guns for sale are automatic handguns with a few rifles and shotguns. All focused on target shooting as I don't think hunting is legal, and appart from the far north there is very little wilderness for game animals.
None of the gun shops had any idea what a Siamese Mauser was but they did eventually point me to a gun repair shop down a dark alley that was also fragrent. Found it, and there were a couple of old Thai guys running the show. Short answer was nothing in Thailand all was sold to the trade. Thank god for smart phones as at least they could understand exactly what I was after.

 

[BlueFlyer]

For those who are not familiar with the rust blue method. Heres what it looks like after 4 hours of the solution on, just before boiling in water. This was the 6th time it had been rusted.

 

[Rule 303]

Hey bloke that is now a rusted piece of junk, how much are going to pay me to take it off your hands.


On a serious note, how come you didn't take the front sights off so all the barrel would be blued?

 

[BlueFlyer]

how come you didn't take the front sights off so all the barrel would be blued?

The barrel is .600 diameter at the muzzle. That leaves 0.092" (2.3mm) to drill and tap, or more seriously 1.8mm to be safe = bugger all threads when you consider drill and tap points. The sights are soft soldered on like most express sights are, alot easier to solder in the white.

Here is that "rusty piece of junk" after boiling and carding with steel wool for the 6th time.

 

[Rule 303]

The barrel is .600 diameter at the muzzle. That leaves 0.092" (2.3mm) to drill and tap, or more seriously 1.8mm to be safe = bugger all threads when you consider drill and tap points. The sights are soft soldered on like most express sights are, alot easier to solder in the white.

Here is that "rusty piece of junk" after boiling and carding with steel wool for the 6th time.

View attachment 652876

That is one sweet looking rifle. Love the depth of that bluing.
Thanks for explaining about the sights. Knew there would be a reason for it.

 

[BlueFlyer]

I also made the bolt shroud fixture to do the modifications necessary to fit the Chapman 2 position safety.

 

[BlueFlyer]

Bluing and stock surface complete.

 

[BlueFlyer]

Calved out the timber around the recoil lug ready for the JB Weld bedding. The front dam is made from double sided foam tape, I also blanked off the floor plate front screw hole with a small disc of the same foam tape. I used lanolin as the release agent on the metal work.

I don't like using the standard front screw when doing the bedding for 3 reasons.
1. Pushing the screw up through the liquid epoxy, you risk pushing the liquid expoxy up into the screw hole which then acts as a hydraulic plug and can limit how far you can screw it down.
2. The typical front screw has a simple flat blade slot which limits how much torque you can apply to compress the front damming foam tape.
3. the stud is made extra long so I can then use a hammer to tap the action out of the bedding.

Instead I made up a 1/4" stud and used a nut and washer to pull the action up to the flour plate lug. It is wrapped with plumbers PTFE tape so it does not get glued in when the liquid epoxy flows into any nook or cranny.

Happy with the finished result, with few air pockets. A bit of clean up is still to be completed.

Another footnote, the rifle, scope and 3 in the magazine weighs 4.285kg or 9.45lbs. Balance point is half way along the floorplate.
Getting to the fun stage of working up some loads. I have AR2206H which is similar to IMR 4895 and AR2206 which is similar to AA2230, then there is AR2208 which is equivalent to IMR 4064.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Nice job bedding. Very neat and clean. Good idea about making a socket head bolt to pull the action down during bedding. I understand Mauser used an oddball thread for those bolts so making one requires ingenuity. A couple of outlets do offer recessed hex head Mauser bolts and I thought about buying a set when doing my 404 build. But 1) they're kinda ugly and 2) a fifty yard rifle doesn't require that much precision.

It appears you only bedded the receiver? I was always told to bed the barrel out to end of chamber. What are your thoughts? Using sticky tape for a dam is quite ingenious! I had to carve away some of the excess bedding in barrel channel with Dremel tool.

What barrel length and profile to get that balance point? It should handle very nicely. How's the progress with Chapman safety?

 

[BlueFlyer]

I was always told to bed the barrel out to end of chamber.

I always bed an inch forward of the receiver ring.
I am also going to pillar bed the tang screw.

How's the progress with Chapman safety

Yes, I have to get to that, I have to get some more oxy acetylene to aneal the shroud. Then I saw the euro 450Rigby with a similar concept that swings to the left, which is a distraction.

What barrel length and profile to get that balance point?

The barrel length is 21.5" from the receiver ring, and it is #3.5 contour.

At this point I am quite happy with my piece of "detritus of the Industrial Revolution, and indeed a World War." but then it is a matter of individual taste.