I need boots for my first safari

Danner's were always good.

Whatever fits. I usually have to shim with inserts, orthotics. As far as USA, idk if anything matters. @ Ford/UAW "Supplier Plant", Instrument Panels pieces, fog light harnesses for Bumpers/Fascias, everything .. Came from Overseas.
 
If you could find a plowed field to walk in that would be a very effective way to strengthen your “ankles”. It’s also some of the best exercise.
Lot to be said for that. I think people mis-judge the issue of ankle support when sorting through footwear. Much of the favor for stiff-ankled footwear IMO can be counter productive when trying to avoid rolled ankles or minimize fatigue when walking/hiking. A flat footbed, with relatively snug heel and properly fitting shoe overall coupled with basic strength in the wearer's feet, ankles and legs are all important for preventing rolled ankles in rough or cobbly terrain. I know people who regularly roll their ankles on relatively flat, smooth ground. Most all if not all people who sprain or roll their ankles I've witnessed or know about were wearing shoes or boots. I know of no one who has suffered similar injuries while bare foot... bruises or cuts yes but not rolling an ankle. I have come to the conclusion that rigid ankled footwear, with too much instep arch support and improperly designed footbed and heel fit and sole actually cause more injuries than they prevent. Plus that type stiff, "supportive" footwear is extremely tiring to walk in so prematurely fatigues the wearer thus leading to an increased potential for injury.
 
+++ for Meindl, should be ok to get in Sweden. My first pair of Kiruna's is still going after 14 years of abuse. these should fit the bill:
I use Meindl Sahara's for hot climates and no complaints, had the same pair for 3 trips to Africa.

The best advice I can give when it comes to footwear. Try on as many brands/models as you can. Put both on and walk around the store, climb some stairs if they have them in the store. Ones that are comfortable and support you where you need it are the ones to go for.

Socks, it does not matter how hot or cold I wear mid to thick wool socks. Wool when aired looses the worst of the smell over a couple of days.
 
Lot to be said for that. I think people mis-judge the issue of ankle support when sorting through footwear. Much of the favor for stiff-ankled footwear IMO can be counter productive when trying to avoid rolled ankles or minimize fatigue when walking/hiking. A flat footbed, with relatively snug heel and properly fitting shoe overall coupled with basic strength in the wearer's feet, ankles and legs are all important for preventing rolled ankles in rough or cobbly terrain. I know people who regularly roll their ankles on relatively flat, smooth ground. Most all if not all people who sprain or roll their ankles I've witnessed or know about were wearing shoes or boots. I know of no one who has suffered similar injuries while bare foot... bruises or cuts yes but not rolling an ankle. I have come to the conclusion that rigid ankled footwear, with too much instep arch support and improperly designed footbed and heel fit and sole actually cause more injuries than they prevent. Plus that type stiff, "supportive" footwear is extremely tiring to walk in so prematurely fatigues the wearer thus leading to an increased potential for injury.
I agree. Too many today spend too much time off their feet. Even when on them, they are typically on relatively flat, stable ground. Both weaken the legs, feet, ankles.
The popular back brace of the 80s and 90s in industrial settings showed that overuse of "support" actually weakens the bodies natural support of muscle and joint ligament. If people actually put the effort into keeping their natural support in good condition, the support of a good boot would render the likelihood of a rolled or sprained ankle fairly unlikely. But with the lack of conditioning, the support of the boot is all there is to prevent injury.
There are those who inherit bad joints unfortunately, and not much can be done to strengthen them to be self-supporting. My son suffers his mother's ankles in this way. Boots with really good ankle support are the only way he can manage our mountains.
 
If you could find a plowed field to walk in that would be a very effective way to strengthen your “ankles”. It’s also some of the best exercise.
Very good advice. I grew up on a farm and use to run as well as walk across plowed paddocks. If you can not find a plowed paddock try and find a decent sized area-so you don't get too bored- that is uneven and rocky if possible. Walking, especially with a bit of weight on your back will help your leg and feet muscles as well as ligaments get use to it.
 
I’ve been a Union Steamfitter my whole career and adult life. I’ve done my best to buy American, to include Redwing Boots. At some point I switched to Danner…

Now that I manage and supervise Industrial construction, and do not spend as much time in the field, I wear a lighter boot.

Construction Grade/Trade grade boots are expensive! A bit different than a hunting boot, but it shouldn’t diminish your personal goal of supporting the effort that is important to you. Especially if you can afford it…

I still wear Danner boots at times. The made in the USA ones. For both, work, and different types of hunting. I also wear other boot brands that fit my EEE foot comfortably…


From the Danner website:

Made in USA​

This classification of manufacturing is our promise that this product was built from top to bottom in our Portland, Ore. factory. Our USA Made boots are built with the same commitment to superior craftsmanship that we’ve been known for since 1932.

Made in USA / Berry Compliant​

Berry Compliant is a certification that meets or exceeds the most stringent guidelines set by the Federal Trade Commission. Every component of this product, down to the raw material sourced to manufacture each part, is sourced from the United States. This boot is crafted from top to bottom in our Portland, Oregon factory.

**Although, my best guess is not all Danner boots are made in the USA…

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Nighthawk, I admire that you select Boots based on Made-in-America and it is fortunate that “Danner” still meets that criteria, more importantly they make a High QUALITY Boot ! One of the better “crafted” boots out there - many models have the sole “sewn on” vs glued on (last longer). Fit is critical and I have a wide EE foot so often my choices are limited. In the 1970s & 80s “Hermans” made a great all leather boot but they are no longer. I’ve worn Merril boots and they fit well and very comfortable (not sure where made?) but their glued on soles eventually separate and even “fall off” as happened to me on a Wyoming hunt - left the truck with soled boots and returned in ”stocking feet” - both soles fell off a mile from the truck. The “glue” deteriorates with age (these were 10 years old but barely used). I always travel on hunts with 2 pairs of boots — good thing ! The only thing AMERICAN about Red Wings & Timberland boots is “the Name” and a long history —— both are now as much “Fashion” as function. Meindel is well regarding for high quality boots but don’t think they are U.S. made. Where does an AMERICAN hunter go for high quality footwear? It is too important an item to wear based only on patriotism - fit & comfort are critical on any “away” hunt - especially Sheep & Goat hunts. I did have a fully custom pair of Russel Boots made for me 15 years ago and they were outstanding quality - best leather and brass eyelets I’ve ever seen and sewn on vibram sole - but they were very UNcomfortable walking up or down hill and weighed over 6 lbs.. I could Not hunt in them (feet also got cold at 40 degrees and My Feet Never get cold!). My Wife has instructions to bury me in those boots - as it will take All Eternity to break them in !
 
Nighthawk, I admire that you select Boots based on Made-in-America and it is fortunate that “Danner” still meets that criteria, more importantly they make a High QUALITY Boot ! One of the better “crafted” boots out there - many models have the sole “sewn on” vs glued on (last longer). Fit is critical and I have a wide EE foot so often my choices are limited. In the 1970s & 80s “Hermans” made a great all leather boot but they are no longer. I’ve worn Merril boots and they fit well and very comfortable (not sure where made?) but their glued on soles eventually separate and even “fall off” as happened to me on a Wyoming hunt - left the truck with soled boots and returned in ”stocking feet” - both soles fell off a mile from the truck. The “glue” deteriorates with age (these were 10 years old but barely used). I always travel on hunts with 2 pairs of boots — good thing ! The only thing AMERICAN about Red Wings & Timberland boots is “the Name” and a long history —— both are now as much “Fashion” as function. Meindel is well regarding for high quality boots but don’t think they are U.S. made. Where does an AMERICAN hunter go for high quality footwear? It is too important an item to wear based only on patriotism - fit & comfort are critical on any “away” hunt - especially Sheep & Goat hunts. I did have a fully custom pair of Russel Boots made for me 15 years ago and they were outstanding quality - best leather and brass eyelets I’ve ever seen and sewn on vibram sole - but they were very UNcomfortable walking up or down hill and weighed over 6 lbs.. I could Not hunt in them (feet also got cold at 40 degrees and My Feet Never get cold!). My Wife has instructions to bury me in those boots - as it will take All Eternity to break them in !
Meindl are German, as are Hanwag and Reck. Germany is lucky that a lot of the small, semi custom shoemakers have survived and still make well crafted lines of shoes ( often in addition to very commercialized lines that they need for volume and economic well being. You can still get double stitched, not glued , full leather construction. I support that as a german expat. I have Recks and Meindl. Cabelas had a run of Meindl a couple of years ago. You can get Meindl Perfect the classic double stitched mountain boot in North America.
the threadstarter is from Sweden, so this is all nicely available to him. There are likely small craft-cobbles in Sweden that we all don't know of that he could search for as well.
 
I was well pleased with the Courtney Selous with the ripple sole for my '22 Namibia safari. Now they are everyday boots on my Iowa 80a. Except in rain or snow; they are not waterproof. I would consider the tyre sole if purchasing again, for better grip on sandy rocky footing hunting Damara Dik-dik. I love the balance and stability they give me in the wide width. I'm unsteady on my 10" Danners, even though they fit correctly. At age 69, that matters! Mike
 
Nighthawk, I admire that you select Boots based on Made-in-America and it is fortunate that “Danner” still meets that criteria, more importantly they make a High QUALITY Boot ! One of the better “crafted” boots out there - many models have the sole “sewn on” vs glued on (last longer). Fit is critical and I have a wide EE foot so often my choices are limited. In the 1970s & 80s “Hermans” made a great all leather boot but they are no longer. I’ve worn Merril boots and they fit well and very comfortable (not sure where made?) but their glued on soles eventually separate and even “fall off” as happened to me on a Wyoming hunt - left the truck with soled boots and returned in ”stocking feet” - both soles fell off a mile from the truck. The “glue” deteriorates with age (these were 10 years old but barely used). I always travel on hunts with 2 pairs of boots — good thing ! The only thing AMERICAN about Red Wings & Timberland boots is “the Name” and a long history —— both are now as much “Fashion” as function. Meindel is well regarding for high quality boots but don’t think they are U.S. made. Where does an AMERICAN hunter go for high quality footwear? It is too important an item to wear based only on patriotism - fit & comfort are critical on any “away” hunt - especially Sheep & Goat hunts. I did have a fully custom pair of Russel Boots made for me 15 years ago and they were outstanding quality - best leather and brass eyelets I’ve ever seen and sewn on vibram sole - but they were very UNcomfortable walking up or down hill and weighed over 6 lbs.. I could Not hunt in them (feet also got cold at 40 degrees and My Feet Never get cold!). My Wife has instructions to bury me in those boots - as it will take All Eternity to break them in !

Do u sit around the fire with feet up
This is a common mistake and we see ot often
The glue melts or deterirates when soles get hot around the fire
Next day walking in the bush and bam your sole is flopping around
 
I saw many options and suggestions about hunting boots. Something is missing, and from my experience is one of the most important things. Weight of the boots!
From my perspective here are the most important characteristics that any hunting boots should have: light weight and waterproofs.
If you are hunting more than 100 days/year change your boots every 2 years. Even if they are still in good shape, the sole of the boots can’t keep the same properties and will affect your feet.
I wears Meindl boots all my life even 4,5 hunting seasons the same boots. I still have them in my garage in good shape. 5 years ago I left them for other brands like LaSportiva or Scarpa, much lighter boots and I’m very happy. I will never go back to heavy boots again!
 
Do u sit around the fire with feet up
This is a common mistake and we see ot often
The glue melts or deterirates when soles get hot around the fire
Next day walking in the bush and bam your sole is flopping around
Tally, No - never exposed these boots to extreme heat or even those “boot dryers”. This was the result of very well cared for boots, with only moderate use “soles fell off” because with age (10 years) the Glue deteriorates and when that is all that holds the soles on - your walking home in socks only.
I’m not the only one that I know this has happened to - friend kept a new pair of boots in the box for a few years then finally took them out to wear - the glued soles fell off before he got out of his house. I know some glued soles last longer but it is a point of failure. Manufacturers make boots this way because it’s cheaper ....Not better
 
I saw many options and suggestions about hunting boots. Something is missing, and from my experience is one of the most important things. Weight of the boots!
From my perspective here are the most important characteristics that any hunting boots should have: light weight and waterproofs.
If you are hunting more than 100 days/year change your boots every 2 years. Even if they are still in good shape, the sole of the boots can’t keep the same properties and will affect your feet.
I wears Meindl boots all my life even 4,5 hunting seasons the same boots. I still have them in my garage in good shape. 5 years ago I left them for other brands like LaSportiva or Scarpa, much lighter boots and I’m very happy. I will never go back to heavy boots again!
HUNTROMANIA, I agree for all-day- walking hunts in cold or potentially wet areas - Light & waterproof is the way to go.. But any waterproof (goretex & similar) affects breathability and builds up more heat & sweat then Non Goretex Boots ... For hot, dry weather a Non waterproof boot can be better. Also, for cold, stand type hunting - weight is unimportant and extra insulation is what matters most. I think if you hunt in different conditions and different styles of hunting - you need several types of boots.
 
Tally, No - never exposed these boots to extreme heat or even those “boot dryers”. This was the result of very well cared for boots, with only moderate use “soles fell off” because with age (10 years) the Glue deteriorates and when that is all that holds the soles on - your walking home in socks only.
I’m not the only one that I know this has happened to - friend kept a new pair of boots in the box for a few years then finally took them out to wear - the glued soles fell off before he got out of his house. I know some glued soles last longer but it is a point of failure. Manufacturers make boots this way because it’s cheaper ....Not better
Don't heavily grease/oil leather boots with glued on soles. Grease works its way underneath the glue and glue loses its grip.
 
Don't heavily grease/oil leather boots with glued on soles. Grease works its way underneath the glue and glue loses its grip.
Ontario, I supposed that’s possible but in my case - never used oil or grease type products, no Neets foot oil etc... On All leather boots I will use Snowseal - bees wax type product but even that was only applied a couple times over 10 years - always just a skim coating rubbing off all excess with a cloth....same as has been done on all my Leather boots (both glued & stitched) and never any problems. I do find many glued soles boots very comfortable, light, and waterproof - at least for the first couple years. But now I just don’t trust them for any “away hunt”, was lucky this didn’t happen earlier on my Safari, miles into the Bush .
 
Ontario, I supposed that’s possible but in my case - never used oil or grease type products, no Neets foot oil etc... On All leather boots I will use Snowseal - bees wax type product but even that was only applied a couple times over 10 years - always just a skim coating rubbing off all excess with a cloth....same as has been done on all my Leather boots (both glued & stitched) and never any problems. I do find many glued soles boots very comfortable, light, and waterproof - at least for the first couple years. But now I just don’t trust them for any “away hunt”, was lucky this didn’t happen earlier on my Safari, miles into the Bush .
I don't bring but two changes of clothes plus what I wear on the plane, but I always bring extra boots in checked baggage. One pair gets sweaty or wet and I can give them the day off to dry out.
 
I don't bring but two changes of clothes plus what I wear on the plane, but I always bring extra boots in checked baggage. One pair gets sweaty or wet and I can give them
Ontario I Travel the same way - anything I’m wearing can also be used to hunt in and especially footware.
 
Any good quality light weight leather boots with a set of leather gators will do. Do not forget the gators.

1E27D7C6-698F-4613-8C46-9112293E62F5.jpeg
 
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About strengthening feet and ankles: the suggestion to walk ploughed fields for exercise is excellent. Somewhere I read a study that walking through fields was 50 percent more productive than walking on sidewalks.
You can brag about your easy miles on the street but the hard miles cross country are what pay off.
 

GARMONT T8 Bifida, Available, cheap but not to cheap, good enough for special forces and navy seals kicking down doors in Iraq and comfortable as I think a boot could possibly be. I've had very good luck with mine.​

 

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Grz63 wrote on roklok's profile.
Hi Roklok
I read your post on Caprivi. Congratulations.
I plan to hunt there for buff in 2026 oct.
How was the land, very dry ? But à lot of buffs ?
Thank you / merci
Philippe
Fire Dog wrote on AfricaHunting.com's profile.
Chopped up the whole thing as I kept hitting the 240 character limit...
Found out the trigger word in the end... It was muzzle or velocity. dropped them and it posted.:)
Fire Dog wrote on AfricaHunting.com's profile.
2,822fps, ES 8.2
This compares favorably to 7 Rem Mag. with less powder & recoil.
Fire Dog wrote on AfricaHunting.com's profile.
*PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS FOR MY RIFLE, ALWAYS APPROACH A NEW LOAD CAUTIOUSLY!!*
Rifle is a Pierce long action, 32" 1:8.5 twist Swan{Au} barrel
{You will want a 1:8.5 to run the heavies but can get away with a 1:9}
Peterson .280AI brass, CCI 200 primers, 56.5gr of 4831SC, 184gr Berger Hybrid.
Fire Dog wrote on AfricaHunting.com's profile.
I know that this thread is more than a year old but as a new member I thought I would pass along my .280AI loading.
I am shooting F Open long range rather than hunting but here is what is working for me and I have managed a 198.14 at 800 meters.
That is for 20 shots. The 14 are X's which is a 5" circle.
 
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