SOUTH AFRICA: First Safari In The Kalahari

Nice springbok and gemsbok, congrats!
 
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Nice animals and good shooting. I like the Kalahari. Different place to hunt but has lots of hidden treasures if you dig deep enough. Congrats
Bruce
 
Loving it, as I read your story I'm reliving lot of my hunt there as well with Frikkie.
 
Congratulations on your trophies. Good story so far, enjoying it very much.
 
Same here. What a great time. I cant wait to get back.

Very nice brother, some fine animals taken! Congrats!!!!

Like @Frederik & @degoins have said, it brings memories, and I feel like I'm behind you guys on those stalks.

Frikkie as you know is a great PH, I never felt rushed, has a great sense of humor, and a book load of knowledge. Frikkie and Heidi were very understanding and they both took good care of me after I got sick at AfricaSky, and I was not 100% for the first two days. I also shot my rifle not feeling well, and couldn't hit the side of a barn that day. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
My first trip to kalahari was in 2011. Been there 3x since. Absolutly lovely area of SA. Been to Bray a few times too. I drive the dust road along Molopo riiver from outside Mafeking. Driving out of Airportroad one keep going until the paved road ends. From here its dust road.

congratulation and many thanks for sharing. Seeing all your images took me back.
 
My first trip to kalahari was in 2011. Been there 3x since. Absolutly lovely area of SA. Been to Bray a few times too. I drive the dust road along Molopo riiver from outside Mafeking. Driving out of Airportroad one keep going until the paved road ends. From here its dust road.

congratulation and many thanks for sharing. Seeing all your images took me back.
That drive from Mahiking into the kalahari is something after the pavement ends. Especially in the dark at 100 KMH with all of the goats, donkeys and the occasional kudu and duiker.
 
That drive from Mahiking into the kalahari is something after the pavement ends. Especially in the dark at 100 KMH with all of the goats, donkeys and the occasional kudu and duiker.
I got to know a few farmers along that stretch all the way to Makopong(Botswana). I have said to my wife I would like to experience kalahari more. Renting a farmhouse for something like 2months, drive around, make pictures, talk with people upthere and may a do little hunting too. The kalahari at night is beautiful and so quiet.

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Frikkie jumped on the radio to alert the rest of our party to the discovery. While we waited, we went through the plan of how the next steps would be conducted and what to look out for as we went. I loaded a fourth shell into my rifle and secured the safety.

Shortly the cavalry arrived in the form of Joseph, our second tracker, and Yvan carrying his father’s 470 NE Heym 88B as backup. After a brief huddle, we advanced into the veld in much the way I had always imagined, trackers out front scanning the terrain for spoor, and the three hunters following behind. However, it wasn’t long before we realized that this would be no ordinary track, but a maze of tracks and back tracks that would disappear and reappear without rhyme or reason. Thirty minutes into the track, we fanned out in all directions looking for spoor.

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Tracking Can Be Easy in the Sand, Not So in the Grass and Brush

“Walk down the trail and see if she went that way” Frikkie instructed as we crossed a game road cut through the block. He circled to my left, Joseph to the right, and Chris in the distance behind. Yvan stood guard with the 470, eyes and binoculars searching for a feline outline. Chris found the track, and we were off again following the spoor.
This continued, losing and regaining the tracks, over and over for hours. Her trail went on and on, winding like a great serpent through the golden thigh high grass around almost each tree and every bush. At one point, the diverging and converging trails gave the impression that there were two lions spoor intertwined. We worked the spoor over through lunch, over 5 miles by the time we stopped. It was about 1300 when Joseph discovered an explanation to the madness in the sand, she was hunting.

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Zebra Panic in the Distance

Earlier that morning while rounding the block, I had spotted zebra racing wildly in the distance. “They really are a spooky bunch,” I had thought earlier as we were several hundred yards away from the frenetic action. With the newfound knowledge of our quarry’s activities, and the plethora of single toed hoof marks, she was likely the cause of the pandemonium. We continued on the spoor, until it crossed the cut line into the next block. We called for a lunchtime pickup. After a quick ride, piled in the Prado, we were back in the bakkie’s headed for camp. The wind was blowing at a steady 30 miles per hour as we pulled up to the gate.

“The tracks won’t last long in this wind,” Frikkie lamented.

It would be a quick lunch as we waited for her to retire in the midday sun.

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Joseph, left, and Chris, right, scan the ground

At 1430 we were back out as the sand whipped up and down the cut line. In less than an hour the tracks that were once so boldly etched were now almost erased. Chris and Joseph climbed onto the front bumper as Yvan assumed the role of driver. Together we rolled around the block to search out for fresher tracks. An hour later, we dismounted, and the search continued, much as before, in maddening circles and erratic splines. The trail cut from on block to the next and back again, ever vanishing. Each time we would regroup, we all acknowledged that “this one is different,” as the search would resume.

Around 1700, with the shadows growing long, first contact was made. Frikkie, using his intuition built by decades of experience, decided to look up from a circle of tracks in the sand.

“She’s over there,” he smirked as his eyes made contact with her outline.

It took me nearly 30 seconds to spot her shadowy figure nearly 200 yards in the distance. At the moment we all made eye contact, she fled. The game of cat and mouse had now climbed to an apex in the afternoon sun. Our stamina renewed pace and our pace quickened as we followed hot on the trail. Another 30 minutes of tracking, saw the day drawing to a close, and our wayward prey once again had given us the slip.

We fanned out along the roadbed, much as before, looking for our heading. Joseph picked up the track, heading North, and we began to follow. Chris however, guided by his own internal compass, turned South. A whistle from behind caught our attention. An excited Chris flagged us down as we turned around at the sound.

It was in this moment we realized the cause for his excitement; she was close. A moment later we realized that she was not only close, but she was here. Just to our left, she was laying in the shade not 20 yards from an unarmed Chris. Although what transpired did not take more than a minute, it would feel like an hour in my mind.

“Do you see her?”
“Yes.”
“Rifle ready?”
“Yes.”
“You’re going to aim for the neck like we talked about, wait for her to turn,” Frikkie whispered.

I would be using Frikkie’s shoulder instead of the sticks that were in the now prone Chris’ hands. “Are you nuts???,” I thought, but not loud enough to hear, as I placed the front of the rifle on Frikkie’s left shoulder.

“Can you see her?”
“Only the top of her head,” I coughed.
“We’re going to climb up out of the road and see if we can get a shot,” he responded.

We marched in tandem up the edge of a sandy embankment, Frikkie grasping my barrel, and I holding the grip, safety still latched. As we reached the top of the bank, the silhouette of her neck and shoulders came into view. The safety went off. My breathing slowed. I reminded myself that the safety of myself and my party relied on a perfect shot. The crosshairs settled on the centerline with the wind in my face. I slipped the bullet in between her vertebrae as she looked to her right off into the veld. As the rifle recovered from the recoil, I saw here figure slump from view. I chambered another round, almost putting the cigarette hot casing down Frikkie’s neck. Frikkie stepped out from under the gun.

“Good shooting, now top off your magazine. It’s the dead ones that kill you.”

Rifle refilled; we three approached the downed lion. The slow death rattle of her final exhales sounded like a slumbering giant I did not wish to wake. However, this giantess would not awake from her final slumber. The shot was nearly 80 yards in the fading light of the desert sun. It was the only shot needed.

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Last slumber of the giantess
 
A relieved Chris was one of the first to shake my hand. That wave of relief then ran over the entire party.

“Hold out your hand,” Frikkie said with a chuckle to gauge my adrenaline.
“Not too bad.”

I was nearly at a loss for words for the next 15 minutes as we sipped water waiting for Dries and some staff members to show up with another bakkie. It had been over 9 miles since our journey down the serpentine path began. As we waited for help, I gawked at the size and heavily muscled physique of the lioness before me.

The ceremony of pictures and handshakes would be quick in the fading light. It would be dark by the time we arrived at the skinning shed. She tipped the scales on an empty stomach at 312 pounds. The chase had concluded, but the night would stretch on as we celebrated over dinner and drinks.

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Nine winding miles saw a swift conclusion​

I was congratulated many times that night, and although my hands would shake from adrenaline for the next 2 hours, I was comforted in knowing that undue suffering for both the group and quarry had been avoided. Yvan and Frikkie described in great detail to Hans and Marie the meandrous trail over the sunbaked, wind worn earth and the challenging situation of the final engagement as the festivities continued. I sat mostly in silence, thanking everyone for the fabulous experience that I had been a part of in just the few short days.

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Celebrating a Decisive Day

After the greater festivities drew to a close, Frikkie and I sat with our next round of drinks.

“I would have liked to see it go for one more day,” Frikkie lamented.
I quietly concurred.
“I made the decision to go for it with the weather like it was and how she was behaving.”
“I agree, I wanted to get closer, but I don’t think that was an option with her.”
“No, and if we had let her go, I think we would have struggled to get her even by Friday with the wind like this.”
I again concurred.

We sat silent for a while both thinking the same thing: Another day’s track could have been spectacular but pursuing that lion would have most likely just resulted in a tired crew, with an equally long shot, under equally undesirable circumstances. I realized that when after dangerous game, safety comes first. I was satisfied with our choice. It was a good end. Cigar and fire out, we said our good nights as we quietly disappeared into our respective cabins with a lion in the salt.
 
The next morning was a much slower start that previously. The energy change from that of a hunting camp to something more of a Saturday morning at home. We had breakfast and coffee, and then loaded up the truck. After loading into the bakkie, we puttered about, much as always but much less hurried. Somewhere along the way we heard jackals yapping and saw impalas fleeing. The truck stopped, and Frikkie’s binoculars went up.

“There’s two of them, by that tree. Just the tips of the ears.”
“Get your rifle and shoot the bastards.” Frikkie barked.

Rifle up and ready, I looked for them in the scope, but I was too late. “Argh, they’re gone, off that way,” as he pointed to 11 o’clock. “We’ll just put them on your bill,” he joked as I put the rifle safely back into its seat on the rack. We had a running joke that any jackals shot would be deducted from my bill, and any missed would be added as they are such a destructive nuisance. Another hour or so as we crossed a pan, Frikkie caught sight of some zebras in the distance.

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“Get your camera ready, they are going to cross the road ahead.”

Satiated with our game drive, we headed to Dries’ and Heidi’s farm which is separated from the ranch only by the game fence. Through the gate and up the drive, we came to a sprawled Afrikaner homestead that was aflutter with morning chores. Dries greeted us, bundled up like he had just came off a dog sled. Speaking of dogs, they were a prominent feature of Dries’ homestead. He and Heidi ran a dog breeding kennel as part of their many income streams. Saluki crossed with Doggo Argentino was his current experiment. After a brief tour and some friendly banter, Dries asked what we were up to for the day.

“I think we’re going to go try and cull some warthogs and then go after some jackals tonight,” Frikkie replied.
“Oh, you must go to the next field, there are some warthogs in my fence row making a terrible mess!” Dries exclaimed excitedly.

We accepted the mission, hollered for Chris, who was talking with some staff ladies, and all loaded back into the truck. We passed through a couple of cattle gates and started down the fence line in question. A little more than halfway down, we lucked into what would turn out to be three warthogs just on the other side of the fence. The truck stopped.

"Quick, whichever pig you can get a shot on, take it.”

I slung the rifle over the padded rail on top of the truck. I found the top of the right pig’s shoulder sticking just above the grass in my sights. Nothing. I had forgotten to release the safety, even worse, I had flinched! A wave of shame came over me as Frikkie looked over to laugh at his thoroughly embarrassed client.

“You flinched!?”
“Yes.” I said with humility and frustration.
“Again, this time without the flinch.”
“Roger.”

I settled in and sent the 416 to work and bring home the bacon. Three hogs flew into action at the shot. After a short blood trail, Chris located the downed sow.

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Managing the local varmints

At this moment I realized that I don't like culling warthogs. It needed to be done but culling a sow out of a fence row was not a high point of my week in the Kalahari. I took a deep breath and got over it. I snapped a lone picture, and we tossed her unceremoniously into the truck bed to give to the staff. We stopped by waterhole on the way back to try our luck on a boar, but the wind was yet again our nemesis.

It was 1330 when we arrived back at the camp for lunch. The lunch of homemade pizza by Yvan was a welcomed change up. Hans, Yvan, Frikkie and I sat around the table eating game meat pizza and shooting the breeze. Hans brought a Browning Citori shotgun and a few boxes of Blaser ammunition for the newly planned sandgrouse shoot scheduled for the following morning.

Around 1800 Marie and the staff arrived for the dinner braai. Later, Hans and Yvan arrived with Bismarck, the cattle dog. We had a lovely dinner of springbok backstraps and some other Kalahari delicacies. Tonight’s dinner followed the usual regiment of braai, eat and drink with conversation around the large brick hearth.

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After sundown the Kalahari transforms
Nightfall came, bringing with it the cold crisp air of winter. That night was windy, so we had our reservations about chances at a jackal, still we wanted to enjoy the change of scenery. The cold and the wind had the expected effect as most of the night life lay huddled in the thickest of scrub and undergrowth. Frikkie’s spotlight illuminated the night like a great searchlight while my eyes strained to see animals. It was long into our drive when we got our first glimpse of nocturnal entertainment. A small owl in a camel thorn sat unblinkingly in the spotlight, irritated by our incursion into his hunt. Next was the strange springhare which I had never seen in person. This oversized kangaroo rat, the size of an American jackrabbit was bouncing along through the tall grass in search of seeds. We would see several that night in the cold abyss. Bat eared foxes made their usual late hour appearances as well as one very portly African porcupine. (Sorry no decent pictures :E Shrug:)

An hour later, cold and tired we called it quits for the night. I was happy to take a hot shower upon returning to my room. I slept well that night.
 
On the final morning, Frikkie, Chris, and I headed out to Dries and Heidi’s after a low-key breakfast to go try our luck with sandgrouse. Sandgrouse were a staple of my daily routine in the Kalahari bush. I used them to mark the time with their morning flight to water between 0900 and 1000. Their now familiar echoing “chirp” always indicated their approach as they flew overhead.

Our choice spot was a small water hole near an old rock quarry where a herd of roan were spending their morning in the sun. The August wind that had been prevalent all week would plague our shoot, but it did not deter from the occasion. Armed with 3 boxes of ammunition, the Citori, and a desire to prove myself I settled into the spot under a small tree Frikkie had indicated would be good to hide from the circling birds.

The first six shots were abysmal as I tried to get used to the length of pull and weight of the Browning. Frikkie was settling in on the other side of the quarry as I barely downed my first bird. Another volley at some overhead birds found me again, missing wildly. I let the next covey get closer, and both shot strings found their mark. The next 3 pairs followed much the same with an odd miss thrown into the mix. As bird after bird hit the sand, I marked their locations. More birds flew down wind, and their speed outmatched my lead. I waited for a better opportunity, nearing the bottom of the box of shells. A large covey flew tight to the waterhole going upwind. This time I got two birds with the first shot and one with the second. Somehow, I had lost count in the fun and was down to one last shell. A lone bird called for his drink; little did he know he would never reach it as the 7 ½ shot sent him meet the dry ground. Ten birds and 1 box of shells down in little more than twenty fantastic minutes. I flagged down Frikkie and Chris. They drove over to the sight of the mayhem as I was collecting my prizes from the sand.

“Done already? How many shells did you shoot?”
I showed him the empty box.
“Not bad, if you’re done, do you mind if I use a box?”
“Absolutely, be my guest. We’re taking it easy today.”
“I haven’t done this in a long time.”

Chris and I played the part of bird dogs collecting the downed sandgrouse as Frikkie picked them off as they flew into range. There was a smile on his face that told of a man enjoying himself. When you enjoy your work, it doesn’t feel like work. This was evident that day on the face of my PH. Even Chris was seemed to be getting a kick out of our outing, especially when Frikkie missed. We loaded up the last of our birds and took a few pictures. A good morning all in all, we dropped off the birds at Dries’ house to provide some extra protein. After a long goodbye, we headed back to camp for a lengthy lunch and a lazy afternoon.

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Sandgrouse make for serious fun

“What would you like to do for your last afternoon with us?” Frikkie enquired.
“I would just like to go for a walk in the bush one last time.” That seemed to please him.
“It would be good to walk a bit before another big dinner,” he mused.

Frikkie went to go call his wife and left me to my own devices as we relaxed for the better part of the afternoon. I went and had a cigar while I took pictures of animals that frequented the area around camp.

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Enjoying My Lazy Afternoon

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Watching this roan was a staple of my lunch time routine

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A young kudu bull visiting the perimeter of camp

There would be no Chris this afternoon as we would head out on foot. At roughly 16:30, we readied for our walk. Frikkie brought his binoculars, and I my rifle in case of jackals or run ins with hell bent animals of a more dangerous persuasion. We headed North out of camp. Along the way we saw the usual plains game as we stalked quietly through the veld. Frikkie and I would take turns pointing them out as we spotted them. From time to time, he would teach me some nuanced point of interest about the landscape as we tracked.

“That is from a small mole like thing that pushes the sand out in little plugs.”
“That’s a porcupine hole.”
“Watch out!” he exclaimed as he jumped to the right and pointed out something on the ground.

It was a small horned adder sunning itself in the last couple hours of daylight. We studied it as it slipped across the sand very similarly to the American sidewinder rattlesnake.

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Horned Adder Warming Itself in the Winter Sun

As we continued on, I spotted some buffalo to our left a couple hundred yards away.

“Buffalo,” I whispered pointing at them.
Frikkie smirked, “Let’s go take a look.”
I was dismayed.

We approached with the wind blowing stiff in our faces, and their cattle like scent with it. As we neared the grazing bulls, I realized how well Frikkie knew buffalo. He was easy going and silent without a spot a fear. Respect, yes, but no fear. We approached within 20 yards of two large, hard bossed bulls. Their 40+ inch spreads clearing the grass as they fed. We took pictures of the magical moment.

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Buffalo graze as we sneak in close

“Take that one, perfect broadside,” Frikkie chuckled as he goaded me to shoot one.
“Nope, I’m not paying for them”
“Just wash some dishes.”
“That’s a lot of dishes!”

The nearer bull looked up suspecting something or maybe just as a precaution. We all locked eyes. I gripped the Winchester slung on my left shoulder. The second bull looked up. For a brief moment, the awkwardness hung in the air like a fog, but then, in a flash they pounded hooves through the bushes away from us with a crash. We laughed quietly and slipped back out from whence we came. I will never be that lucky to stalk buffalo so easily in my life.

The shadows grew long as we continued on up to the next cut line. Two miles North of the camp, we turned around to walk back. On the way we crossed one of the many pans teaming with herds. Blesbok, wildebeest, impalas, springbok, gemsbok, eland, and kudu all swarmed about like birds. It was an awesome sight to see on foot so close. Much closer than the noise of the bakkie would allow. We put on multiple mock stalks trying to see how close we could get. I felt like the Sioux warriors of old counting coup.

It was a great ending to my time in the red sand.

That night, there was a going away banquet of sorts. Hans, Marie, Yvan, Frikkie were there as we were joined by Mariaan, Hans & Marie’s daughter, and her husband. Once again, we would braai, drink, and talk around the great brick hearth. This night’s menu would include chop steaks from my springbok taken earlier in the week along with some wors and sides.

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A Fantastic Meal to End a Fantastic Week
 
The next day Hans and Marie joined us for breakfast as they would be driving me back to Africa Sky. It was a quiet morning as we enjoyed a large breakfast. The end of my time in the Kalahari was upon me as I said my final goodbyes to the staff, Chris, and Frikkie.

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My Last Sunrise in the Kalahari

It was the same long 7-hour journey back to Johannesburg. We stopped for lunch and souvenirs along the way. When we arrived at Africa Sky, I was greeted in with the much the same warm welcome as when I had arrived a week before. Hans, Marie, and I had a toast with brandy to mark the end of our time together as they were departing for the other side of Johannesburg.

That night I had the same meal I started with, steak and a buffet of peas, sweet carrots, and breads. As I sat, I watched the other first timer’s arriving for their first safaris with the same apprehension that I had the previous week. I grabbed a beer and slunk back to my room exhausted from the journey behind and dreading the one ahead.

The next morning, I had a late flight, so I spent much of my day milling about and talking to family over the phone. At 1700, I was picked up by the mercurial Gilbert and whisked off to OR Tambo for 16-hour flight across the totality of the Atlantic. Despite long lines, and laughably complicated security, I managed to make my flight with little complication. When I arrived in Atlanta, I was sore and stiff but relying on the collective knowledge of the AH threads, I managed to get through customs quickly enough to catch an earlier flight. I arrived home on Monday, 22 August.

Thanks for reading this far.
 
I enjoyed the story. You writing has a very good style to it. Thanks for sharing.
 
Fine yarn for sure and thanks for sharing your grand adventure.

No after this the post safari depressions usually kicks in hope its not too bad.
 
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Grz63 wrote on Werty's profile.
(cont'd)
Rockies museum,
CM Russel museum and lewis and Clark interpretative center
Horseback riding in Summer star ranch
Charlo bison range and Garnet ghost town
Flathead lake, road to the sun and hiking in Glacier NP
and back to SLC (via Ogden and Logan)
Grz63 wrote on Werty's profile.
Good Morning,
I plan to visit MT next Sept.
May I ask you to give me your comments; do I forget something ? are my choices worthy ? Thank you in advance
Philippe (France)

Start in Billings, Then visit little big horn battlefield,
MT grizzly encounter,
a hot springs (do you have good spots ?)
Looking to buy a 375 H&H or .416 Rem Mag if anyone has anything they want to let go of
Erling Søvik wrote on dankykang's profile.
Nice Z, 1975 ?
Tintin wrote on JNevada's profile.
Hi Jay,

Hope you're well.

I'm headed your way in January.

Attending SHOT Show has been a long time bucket list item for me.

Finally made it happen and I'm headed to Vegas.

I know you're some distance from Vegas - but would be keen to catch up if it works out.

Have a good one.

Mark
 
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