Help-African European Skull Mount

[Sabre]

They actually had the tags attached to the skull so not sure why they drilled the holes in the horns. It’s very depressing. They want our money but don’t seem to take care of them. That’s why i brought everything home to do the taxidermy work.

There’s no holes in the back of the hartebeest or wildebeest. The wildebeest still has some hair and stuff on the base as well.

What people don't see many times, is that when your animal goes back to the skinning shed, it often has a hole drilled in each horn which then gets a tag attached, then a tag attached to the skull, Also possibly a tag attached to the hide, and a tag attached to the back skin (if you choose to keep it).

As @buck wild said, they are dealing with a fairly insane number of animal parts and people get pretty mad if even one part is wrong. So, they do this to keep all the parts labeled until shipping.

It is a fairly unfortunate reality, but horns, hides, and skulls routinely come back in pretty rough condition. Some places coat the horns with an oil based insecticide that makes them very black. Some places have had instances of painting the horns all black. Some paint the skulls white to cover bad whitening process. As someone else mentioned, sometimes they come back with a bunch of teeth missing, or broken noses.

It can sometimes not be the amazing feeling you were hoping for when you open the crate and the horns you saw on the animals in Africa don't end up looking nearly as good by the time they hit America. To some degree, I just try to accept that, within reason, it isn't something we can completely control.

 

[Huntforever]

Linseed oil may make the horns look "richer" like it does for wood but doesn't darken a whole lot. To "treat" horns we use paste wax.

I hear people also use mop and glow

 

[Huntforever]

What people don't see many times, is that when your animal goes back to the skinning shed, it often has a hole drilled in each horn which then gets a tag attached, then a tag attached to the skull, Also possibly a tag attached to the hide, and a tag attached to the back skin (if you choose to keep it).

As @buck wild said, they are dealing with a fairly insane number of animal parts and people get pretty mad if even one part is wrong. So, they do this to keep all the parts labeled until shipping.

It is a fairly unfortunate reality, but horns, hides, and skulls routinely come back in pretty rough condition. Some places coat the horns with an oil based insecticide that makes them very black. Some places have had instances of painting the horns all black. Some paint the skulls white to cover bad whitening process. As someone else mentioned, sometimes they come back with a bunch of teeth missing, or broken noses.

It can sometimes not be the amazing feeling you were hoping for when you open the crate and the horns you saw on the animals in Africa don't end up looking nearly as good by the time they hit America. To some degree, I just try to accept that, within reason, it isn't something we can completely control.

I can see what your saying but there has to be a better way then drilling holes in the horns. Worst case don’t drill at the top facing outward..

 

[Sabre]

#4- I do wonder what the average guy does to "seal off" the horns from the cores? I personally am more concerned with bugs getting in between my horns and cores later down the road. Completely sealing them off would prevent that as an issue.

Same here, I think the larger problem is bugs getting in there later and finding it as a food source. I think the answer to your question is nothing. I think the average guy does nothing to seal them off. And what's funny is that they may never have a problem. And someone who tries very hard to avoid the future problem might still have problems.

One thing I have seen some people do and I am considering on a couple I am working on now is to use silicone to attach. And then in that way you could certainly get 360 coverage and sealed. However, I have some doubts about it keeping bugs out long term as they might be more able to get through silicone vs, something more solid. But plenty of holes in exterior houses are sealed up this way and keep bugs out.

Also thinking that if a person did the silicone and then pushed a ring of epoxy in under the bottom edge of the horn to "seal it", that's about as much as a person could possibly do. I'm sure many would call that extreme, but if you can prevent a problem before it starts with fairly minimal effort, why not give it a shot.

 

[Sabre]

I can see what your saying but there has to be a better way then drilling holes in the horns. Worst case don’t drill at the top facing outward..

I'm not disagreeing with you. And I also wish they would figure out a way that didn't damage the horns that all African places could get on board with. All of mine have been drilled through the top on the side.

I can give you a likely reason they drill at the top/tip of the horn. If you ever see a horn sheath removed from the horn core; There is essentially thick bone most the way up inside that horn sheath. However, towards the tip, the last bit of horn sheath is filled mostly with what looks like a gelatinous noodle when you removed the horn sheath.

So, if they drill through that area right after you harvest the animal and place their tag with steel wire, they can still remove the horn sheath from the horn core. If they drilled lower they would have to go through thicker bone and also the steel wire through the bone would make horn sheath removal more annoying later.

 

[buck wild]

I hear people also use mop and glow

Have you "heard" that from others, other than me (on another thread here on AH recently) ? Just wondering, as I got the info from an old school taxidermist in the early 90's. Not sure I have heard of many others specifically talk about Mop N Glo. I have been espousing its greatest on here though, especially for the smaller horned animals. . I know White Bone uses it on his euro skulls in his YT videos also.

 

[buck wild]

Same here, I think the larger problem is bugs getting in there later and finding it as a food source. I think the answer to your question is nothing. I think the average guy does nothing to seal them off. And what's funny is that they may never have a problem. And someone who tries very hard to avoid the future problem might still have problems.

One thing I have seen some people do and I am considering on a couple I am working on now is to use silicone to attach. And then in that way you could certainly get 360 coverage and sealed. However, I have some doubts about it keeping bugs out long term as they might be more able to get through silicone vs, something more solid. But plenty of holes in exterior houses are sealed up this way and keep bugs out.

Also thinking that if a person did the silicone and then pushed a ring of epoxy in under the bottom edge of the horn to "seal it", that's about as much as a person could possibly do. I'm sure many would call that extreme, but if you can prevent a problem before it starts with fairly minimal effort, why not give it a shot.

Silicone is an interesting thought. Not sure I'd use it in a taxidermy application but for the DIY at home, easily accessible material for sure. But as you surmise, it might still take something else to completely seal off the opening, but maybe not. Gotta be better than nothing.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Not really worried about bugs getting underneath the horns. The first botched stinky shipment from 2019 was a pain to clean up and only the kudu and gemsbuck had detached horns. Haven't been any bugs in them. Or the second shipment two years later. That taxidermy outfit used the holes in the back of horns treatment for horns that were not removed. For third shipment Hunters & Collectors removed all horns and trimmed back the skull stumps. Then the question was how to reattach horns. I tried hot glue so they could be detached for moving etc but the glue didn't stick reliably. So I opted to drill small holes at the base of horns on back side. Then put horns on stumps and mark spots through the holes. I used an appropriate size bit to drill holes into stumps at the mark. Then I simply used very small screws to attach horns to stumps. Can't see the screws because they are hidden on back side close to the skulls. I did use epoxy to attach springbuck skulls because they are small and would be easy to transport whole. Also screw heads would likely be more visible. It sounds clunky but worked well. Look at the above image of red lechwe. Even from the side screws are not visible. And the horns are attached securely! Here's the kudu from that shipment. Screws also not visible. If I ever have to relocate (senior's center?) or want to put trophies in storage, it will be easy to detach horns and box everything up.

 

[Rubberhead]

I opted for Euro mounts - no holes, they used tie wraps around the base to put tags. The skulls were off-white (eggshell) colored and look very natural not overly white. The only "problem" was some of the teeth were falling out. I just glued them back in with clear Gorilla glue. My impala's horns were not "painted black" all the way to the base either. I just left it that way but intend to fix it later.

 

[Rubberhead]

Oh, and by the way, I had the work done and completed in Africa...maybe that's why.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I'm not disagreeing with you. And I also wish they would figure out a way that didn't damage the horns that all African places could get on board with. All of mine have been drilled through the top on the side.

I can give you a likely reason they drill at the top/tip of the horn. If you ever see a horn sheath removed from the horn core; There is essentially thick bone most the way up inside that horn sheath. However, towards the tip, the last bit of horn sheath is filled mostly with what looks like a gelatinous noodle when you removed the horn sheath.

So, if they drill through that area right after you harvest the animal and place their tag with steel wire, they can still remove the horn sheath from the horn core. If they drilled lower they would have to go through thicker bone and also the steel wire through the bone would make horn sheath removal more annoying later.

The better option is to use clear packing tape and simply wrap up the ID tag on the horn. Or wrap horn tips with duct tape and write the number on tape with permanent marker. Duct tape goo is easily removed afterwards with WD40. If Hunters & Collectors could find shrink tubes to identify horns, I'm sure the stuff is available to other taxidermists. Just costs a little more money.

What I'm hearing is most African taxidermist just don't give a shit about finishing up skulls properly. The assumption is probably that anyone ordering plains game skulls is just a middle class one-timer. Not going to be a return customer so screw it. They are just peons anyway and likely will be thrilled to get anything to put on the wall. In my situation, where my home is also our taxidermy business showroom, you can imagine my frustration when I opened the first crate and was knocked over by the stench. Then I found ALL eight skulls were painted white (to cover over rotting flesh and grease spots). I couldn't have crap like that on the walls and clients thinking that's the kind of work we do.

 

[Huntforever]

Have you "heard" that from others, other than me (on another thread here on AH recently) ? Just wondering, as I got the info from an old school taxidermist in the early 90's. Not sure I have heard of many others specifically talk about Mop N Glo. I have been espousing its greatest on here though, especially for the smaller horned animals. . I know White Bone uses it on his euro skulls in his YT videos also.

I saw a few videos about using mop and glow on you tube

 

[Huntforever]

Not really worried about bugs getting underneath the horns. The first botched stinky shipment from 2019 was a pain to clean up and only the kudu and gemsbuck had detached horns. Haven't been any bugs in them. Or the second shipment two years later. That taxidermy outfit used the holes in the back of horns treatment for horns that were not removed. For third shipment Hunters & Collectors removed all horns and trimmed back the skull stumps. Then the question was how to reattach horns. I tried hot glue so they could be detached for moving etc but the glue didn't stick reliably. So I opted to drill small holes at the base of horns on back side. Then put horns on stumps and mark spots through the holes. I used an appropriate size bit to drill holes into stumps at the mark. Then I simply used very small screws to attach horns to stumps. Can't see the screws because they are hidden on back side close to the skulls. I did use epoxy to attach springbuck skulls because they are small and would be easy to transport whole. Also screw heads would likely be more visible. It sounds clunky but worked well. Look at the above image of red lechwe. Even from the side screws are not visible. And the horns are attached securely! Here's the kudu from that shipment. Screws also not visible. If I ever have to relocate (senior's center?) or want to put trophies in storage, it will be easy to detach horns and box everything up.
View attachment 669161

What about soaking the horns in water for a couple days then try attaching the horns to the skull? The water should allow the sheaths to expand allowing it to fit on the skull again

 

[BGGMKLR]

I I just got back my I African animals from the last two trips to South Africa. I had everything dipped and packed and sent back to the states. Upon opening the packages in crates and plastic wrappings I noticed some concerns and was wondering if I could get some help I was preparing to do my own European, but I noticed here’s a few items that I noticed off the bat.

1. A number of the horns have drilled holes in them with some of the holes are even facing towards if you’re looking at the map. Very disappointing. How do I fix this?
2. it appears they didn’t remove the horns on my wildebeest, Impala’s and hartebeast. I noticed they had an odour and it appears to have had some bugs but appear dead now. How do I remove the horns from the skull so I can clean the horns inside and skull better to prevent the smell and future bugs??
3. On a few of the horns, they boil the skulls to a point they are discolored and clear. How do I get that color back on my horns?
4. The animals that already have the horns removed should I use some sort of chemical to clean inside the horns to make sure there’s no flesh or anything that could create a bug problem?


I really would appreciate any help.

When my Zim shipment arrived I was pissed off beyond consolation. My Eland, both Kudu, and Sable horns all had very clear pipe wrench/channel lock mars. I very clearly made my fury known to both my PH and his exporter, to the tune of: "How fuc*ing stupid does someone have to be to apply tools to these things without cloth/leather/cardboard...SOME KIND OF...protection?
Here's the deal. No one cares. It's just one of many shipments. The world to you, means absolutely nothing to a guy making (maybe) a dollar or two a day.
Most of these transgressions are repairable (rotten hides not withstanding).
Missing teeth can be replaced.
If skulls are merely salted and shipped, museum quality cannot (or should not) be expected.
Luckily, if you are even slightly handy, near perfect repair is at hand.
After having expended far too much energy, blood pressure, and anger, The fix was a cake walk. A dremel with a thin fine grinding wheel...gently applied...had those blemishes disappear...and to this day I would challenge anyone to even notice them.
Moral of the story:
Don't sweat the small stuff.
Don't expect anyone to care as much as you.
And realize, there are literally millions of guys who would love to have the opportunity to experience this life...and never will be able to pull it off.

My apologies.

At 73, I've become a bit pragmatic.

Best
Spike

 

[Tundra Tiger]

Mine had tags through existing holes in the skull. If I would have opened the box and found holes through the horns I would have been royally pissed.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

What about soaking the horns in water for a couple days then try attaching the horns to the skull? The water should allow the sheaths to expand allowing it to fit on the skull again

Once the living flesh has been removed from the bony core and bony core cut off at three or four inches above the skull, there's a substantial gap between horn and core when horns are set on cores. The screws are to keep the horns on the core stumps. If the skulls are attached firmly to the wall, it might be okay to simply drop the horns onto stumps. But to remove the skulls from the wall (e.g. to clean them), it's better to have horns attached. Remove one kudu horn and the skull wants to rotate due to unbalanced weight. Result is mount falls off the wall. Ask me how I know!

 

[3nyala]

When our clients would arrive for a hunt we always started or ended a safari with a trip to the taxidermy. The owners would walk the client around to see the different mounts and work out how the clients wanted things done. It was a good investment of time for client and taxidermist. Client could see quality of the work and taxidermist could show off their operation and hopefully sell the client on getting their mounts done there. When trophies were in the salt in the skinning shed we would tag them with zip tie through the eye to non perishable name tags with clients details. We never drilled holes in the horns. When trophies were dropped off at the taxidermy they were measured and recorded so even if horns were separated they could probably be tracked down. I never saw any holes drilled in horns even when boiling. There were steel wired tags to horns and skulls. Skulls and horns shipped as such were white and clean. And care for just skulls and horns was the same for a full mount. I am not saying there were not mishaps but the taxidermist we used went to great pains to keep even skull and horn collectors (of which i am one) happy. The skull and horn hunter of today may want a half mount buffalo tomorrow. Remember that your trophies are sometimes the only tangible things you have from the hunt so it maybe worthwhile to do as much research on taxidermists as PHs. There are good ones out there that value even skull and horn guys like us.